Hey folks,

I have a brand new Kelty Noah 12 ft.

Got it as a gift.

I have a bunch of zing-it laying around and like to use Dutchware gear.

Any suggestions for rigging?

I'd like to have a bunch of pre rigged lines for various configurations.

Any info would help.

Thanks in advance!!

quote MrBadExample: "Hey folks,
I have a brand new Kelty Noah 12 ft.
Got it as a gift.
I have a bunch of zing-it laying around and like to use Dutchware gear.
Any suggestions for rigging?
I'd like to have a bunch of pre rigged lines for various configurations.
Any info would help.
Thanks in advance!!"

I use both amsteel or zing-it (with some Dutchware). As far as pre-rigging, I prefer to have a small length off the tabs that would be used to tie to the tree and then longer lengths to go from the tree to those small lengths. This allows you to keep something tied to the tabs and easily stored. The longer lengths you can wrap up and keep stored until needed.

For tie-outs and stake lines use reflective cord. Easy to see in the night and find when you are heading there in the night.

FYI zing-it, etc. are made from Dyneema. I bought a small spool of it to have. The lengths that are from the ridge tabs are about 18" long and I made 10' lengths to go from the tree to those pieces. If I need anything longer than 10' that either means I need to choose different trees or if necessary, use some of the utility lengths I always take.

I use the line CCS sells - mostly the non-reflective sort. I have 18" on all the loops, and 25' on the corners. I also throw 3-4 25' hanks in the stuff sack for either a ridgeline, or when a tree or two are more than 25' from a corner.

I have a rectangular CCS tarp and keep about 20' of Dan's cord (1/8"?) tied to each corner (plus the ridge line). That's about it. I gave up on hardware and don't miss it. I keep some shorter lengths in case I need a little more reach or to make use of the multitude of other tie downs. Some of it is CCS cord and other is Zing-it. Both work well.

Alan

Another CCS cordage booster. Easier handling than small diameter/low stretch lines. Will supply some shock absorption to the setup better than Dyneema.

I did veer from CCS cordage recently for some 1/8 inch Glow in the Dark Tent GuyLine, Caving Cord . Excellent for low lines!

butthead

I use a 50 foot 3mm PMI Utility Cord ridgeline, secured with a Klemheist knot on each side.

I use yellow CCS cord for the guy lines, cut to eight (or ten?) -foot lengths. One cord is pre-tied to each corner of the rectangular tarp for fast set ups. I can add more attachment points as needed.

If I need a longer guy line, I add another eight-foot length with a sheet bend, and I'm good to go. I use a taut-line hitch for the stake end of each guy line.

Have fun with your new tarp!

I have my ridge line already pre-rigged on my CCS tarp and use purssicks or munter hitch on them at each end to keep the tarp tight.

Here is a link to Wintertrekker's video on the pre-rigged ridgeline setup.

Thanks for the intel!!

Hey MrBad,

I also use the Noah. I like to pitch it square and keep about 30ft of para cord pre-rigged as the ridgeline.

I tie a Siberian Hitch on one end and use a figure-9 on the other. I use prussic knots and small s-biners attached to the tarp which allow me to slide it around easily.

I want to switch my tie outs to Shock-Cord and Zing it with Dutch Tarpworms eventually. Currently I use REI cord with a taught-line Hitch.

quote boonie: " Here is a link to Wintertrekker's video on the pre-rigged ridgeline setup."

I like how he uses that ridgeline and then prusiks. I've used many ways to try and make hanging the tarp easier and this is how I think I'll do it next and I expect it to work quite well.

CCS cord for ridge line with truckers hitch and prussic knots to pull taught. Zing it for tie outs using taught line hitches. I would caution against paracord since nylon cord stretches and relaxes and I prefer to not continuously tighten my tarp. Braided Poly or Dyneema/Spectra will stay taught through rain, wind, etc....

Whatever type of line you choose (any will work) here is how we have found it best to rig a Noah’s tarp. Remember that these are catenary (not square) tarps, with the seams on the diagonal, and are designed to be pitched in a certain way. The beauty of the tarp is that it goes up very fast, with only 4 lines needed for a tight pitch. We prefer to leave all four lines attached to the tarp at all times as they take up very little space in the stuff sack. Refer to the drawing below. The “ridge seam” is the main diagonal seam of the tarp, and it is very strong and is designed to take the tension of the main suspension points of your pitch. Tabs “A” are at the ends of this diagonal, and we attach a 25’ length of cord to each, preferably a different color than the cords attached to the secondary “wings” of the tarp (tabs “B”) so that you can easily tell them apart. These primary lines (yellow in the drawing) are the first two lines you put up, either both high up in trees, or one end high and the other end low on the ground. That suspends the tarp in the air. The two side flaps can then be suspended at any height that you want, either high or low. Think of this as a large bird, with the diagonal seam being the backbone of the bird, and the side flaps as the wings. No separate ridge line or center pole is necessary.
For convenience and quick deployment, we find it best to stuff (not fold) the tarp into a stuff sack, with the two primary lines being THE LAST THINGS YOU STUFF IN THE SACK. Then, when you need to put it up in a hurry, you open the sack, you and your partner each grab one of the primary lines and walk in opposite directions. The tarp will come out and you attach each line to whatever anchor point you want to use. The tarp is up, and you simply adjust the side “wings” as you see fit.

quote WonderMonkey: "

quote boonie: " Here is a link to Wintertrekker's video on the pre-rigged ridgeline setup."

I like how he uses that ridgeline and then prusiks. I've used many ways to try and make hanging the tarp easier and this is how I think I'll do it next and I expect it to work quite well."

It works very well with the CCS tarp and ridgeline stuff sack. Small s-biners on the ridge loops with prussiks (or klemhesit) on each end as Simmy mentioned. It is helpful for the solo person, especially in the wind - the tarp sack in the sack until the ridgeline is secured and then the already attached tarp is more easily handled. Move it along the ridgeline to wherever you want it and tie out the corners/sides with pre-attached lines. The "hair things" work well for bundling the lines.

quote boonie: "

quote WonderMonkey: "

quote boonie: " Here is a link to Wintertrekker's video on the pre-rigged ridgeline setup."

I like how he uses that ridgeline and then prusiks. I've used many ways to try and make hanging the tarp easier and this is how I think I'll do it next and I expect it to work quite well."

It works very well with the CCS tarp and ridgeline stuff sack. Small s-biners on the ridge loops with prussiks (or klemhesit) on each end as Simmy mentioned. It is helpful for the solo person, especially in the wind - the tarp sack in the sack until the ridgeline is secured and then the already attached tarp is more easily handled. Move it along the ridgeline to wherever you want it and tie out the corners/sides with pre-attached lines. The "hair things" work well for bundling the lines."

I use a snakeskin currently. I'll stick with that but if it ever needs replaced I'll consider the stuff sack. I was already doing the hair band thing and like how it works. Small thing but big impact, especially if I'm in a hurry.

I have been using Wintertrekkers set-up for a year now, and love it. Quick to set-up, and easy to deal with solo. Keeps the tarp off the ground.
My only negatives thus far are that I find the hair bands take a bit of time when putting the tarp away, especially when compared to the rapid deployment. I have also had one of the bands break, so make sure you bring a spare or two. Pay attention to the "welded" seam on the hair band, and make sure it is in the tarp loop to avoid stressing it as you wrap the line. Hope that makes sense, the weld seems to be the weak point, so try not to stress it. I also am looking to add a line that goes under the tarp to hang things to dry. I miss that with the ridgeline going through the tarp loops above the tarp.

I have 50' of Dan's cordage as the ridgeline, (way more than I have needed thus far), and 20' of the same cord at each corner. Dan sells the cordage in 80' lengths, so with 2 sets you get all four corners, the ridge line, and an extra 30' piece of line.

A length of shock cord would work if one doesn't mind the knot it would take to connect the ends. It would certainly make it tough.

Do you folks think a 30 foot ridgeline is long enough?

I have an old continuous ridgeline from a hammock tarp and was wondering if I could put it back into service in the kelty noah 12.

My tarp of choice is a flat tarp, And because of the variety of methods to set it up I remove all lines and cordage each time it's taken down. It may take more time to put up fresh, but that is countered with options for location, use and set.
A catenary cut tarp can't be reconfigured as easily and has a primary setup configuration the works well with cordage attached.
For your Noah, CanoeKev has the best pre-rigged idea.
Kelty Noah, set up in the most used way.


Flat Tarp setup as lean-to.

FT as shelter.

FT in flying diamond.

FT umbrella set.

FT a-frame shelter.

FT ridgeline set.

And the ever popular campground EZ-UP suspension-less set.


butthead

Usually, but if you need longer you could have more with to add.

I use ccs reflective. I bought some reflective on ebay and it bled it's color on everything.

Usually, but if you need longer you could have more with to add.

I use ccs reflective. I bought some reflective on ebay and it bled it's color on everything.

quote MrBadExample: "Do you folks think a 30 foot ridgeline is long enough?


I have an old continuous ridgeline from a hammock tarp and was wondering if I could put it back into service in the kelty noah 12."

How far apart are the trees where your gonna pitch the tarp? I pack long small cord (CCS) for a ridge line. I would go small Dyneema for a ridge line but, its hard to get a prussic knot to bite on small Dyneema cord. Personally I would knot leave home without a 50'+ piece for a ridge line. Yes, I know you can make end loops, sheet bend knot, double fishermans knot, etc.... and extend it but, they are a pain if you plan to use prussic loops (knots) to tighten the tarp on a taught ridge line without over stressing the tarp or if you want to slide the tarp one way or the other through the tarp loops to position it where you want it.

Agree as far as always having at least a 50' length for a ridgeline. You never know what kind of spacing there will be between trees at your next site.
Cordage doesn't take up that much space, I always err on the side of having too much.

Great info here. I can't really add anything to the questions posed other then to remember not to use reflective cordage tied directly to the tie out loops. Reflective has bits of glass in it that can? will? eat away at the tabs. Tie a loop on the loop with reg cordage with a blood knot and then attach reflective. At least that is what I do...

Thanks again for all the intel folks!!

I really appreciate it.

Hey Simmy32,
That Siberian hitch is great. I'm going to use it as you described. Thanks for the knot!