Picked up a livery canoe this spring, and while it's in good condition, there's a few loose rivets on the bracket the portage yoke attaches to.

I've already contacted Wenonah, and they've informed me they use 3/16 rivets, 1/2" long in the thwarts.

My plan is to drill out the existing rivets and replace them with pop rivets of the same size.

But before I start, I just wanted to make sure this plan sounds good.

Any comments?

I have replaced some loose rivets on my alum canoes in years past. I went to Fleet Farm and bought some small washers to put on the rivets.Someone body recomended useing stainless steel rivets because they don't wear out as fast, but I've never tried them. FRED

Due to a transport accident I had to replace the aluminum gunwales on my Wenonah Jensen 18. Turned out to be a pretty easy project, even though I'd never riveted anything before. I'm sure you'll do fine simply replacing the loose rivets w/the Wenonah-recommended sizes.

yes, just drill them out with a slightly smaller drill bit than the existing rivet. should tighten right up.

Just don't let them spin on ya, it'll waller out the hole, and as previously suggested use a slightly undersized drill bit.

What was mentioned above. Don't make it complicated, it is pretty easy to do.

Hex

quote FOG51: "I have replaced some loose rivets on my alum canoes in years past. I went to Fleet Farm and bought some small washers to put on the rivets.Someone body recomended useing stainless steel rivets because they don't wear out as fast, but I've never tried them. FRED"

The stainless rivets are a lot stronger and if you use the standard pop-rivet tool to install them you will be too. They are really hard to install. The standard aluminum ones will probably last you quite a while as long as you treat the canoe decent. A livery canoe can take quite a beating. I agree with using the washers on the pop rivets as it will give the rivet more to grip and pull everything tight.

quote dasunt: "Picked up a livery canoe this spring, and while it's in good condition, there's a few loose rivets on the bracket the portage yoke attaches to.

I've already contacted Wenonah, and they've informed me they use 3/16 rivets, 1/2" long in the thwarts.

My plan is to drill out the existing rivets and replace them with pop rivets of the same size.

But before I start, I just wanted to make sure this plan sounds good.

Any comments?

"

I had that exact thing happen to my Kevlar UL Prism. After a lot of postings on this board, I bought stainless steel Phillips head screws, washers, and Nylock nuts from my local ACE Hardware. Drilled out the old rivets, inserted the screws, put the washers on the screws, put a drop of BLUE Locktite (DO NOT USE RED LOCKTITE), put on the nuts and tightened them up. It has worked well, and it is still nice and tight after 2-3 trips. I bought my Prism new around 2004 from Piragis. I think the cost of the screws, nuts, Locktite, etc., was well under $15. Probably less than $10. I was pretty intimidated about drilling holes in my canoe though.

Tomster

quote dasunt: "Picked up a livery canoe this spring, and while it's in good condition, there's a few loose rivets on the bracket the portage yoke attaches to.

I've already contacted Wenonah, and they've informed me they use 3/16 rivets, 1/2" long in the thwarts.

My plan is to drill out the existing rivets and replace them with pop rivets of the same size.

But before I start, I just wanted to make sure this plan sounds good.

Any comments?

"

Sounds good to me, I've done the same thing on mine.