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ayudell
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05/07/2017 08:48AM  
Well I bought the canoe I posted earlier about asking for ID help. It is 16'8", so based on length I think that it is a DY special. The last two numerical digits of the HIN are 83, so 1983? There was some significant damage that wasn't represented in the original pictures, so the seller took $100.

The boat has bad sun damage to the gel coat, and three tears in the hull, which go all the way through. One of the tears was repaired by the previous owner with silicone... When I push on the hull with my hand, I can hear crispy noises, but no tears initiated.
The gunwhales, seat, and thwarts are in great shape.

1) Are these tears due to some trauma, or due to the hull deteriorating? In other words, is it worth it to repair these, or will three more pop up as soon as I take this boat out?

2) Can the gel coat be repaired from this state? The gel coat has some cracks.
3) Did I buy a dead boat? If so, I'll just patch in with more silicone and paddle it until it sinks.

I'm pretty handy and eager to lean about fiberglass repair, but don't want to spend the money on a lost cause.





 
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Alan Gage
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05/07/2017 12:38PM  
quote ayudell: "

I'm pretty handy and eager to lean about fiberglass repair, but don't want to spend the money on a lost cause.
"


That last sentence is your answer. The boat is not a lost cause and can be repaired but even if it wasn't worth fixing it would be a great learner project.

You'll need sandpaper, epoxy resin, 6oz. fiberglass, release treated peel ply, and spar varnish or paint if you want to try and match the original color. If your repair areas aren't too wide you might be able to get by with 4" fiberglass tape, which would be easier to handle since the edges won't unravel like cut cloth.

West Systems is a popular resin but I've mostly used and had good luck with Raka. Express Composites is local to you and could hook you up with about everything you need except the resin. They carry Adtech resin and I wouldn't recommend it for this. The Adtech Probuild is pretty thick and the 820 series laminating resin needs to be at least 80 degrees to cure. But if you're doing the work this summer that might not be a problem. Otherwise it's a really nice resin. I'm using up my old stock of 820 and Probuild on a couple projects this summer while it's warm outside.

Alan
 
05/07/2017 02:15PM  
I think you got a great deal on a wonderful hull. The fiberglass repair is pretty easy and straightforward. The more concerned you are with how it "looks" vs how it works the more difficult it is. The most important thing is to keep the line of the hull and not add any resistance to its passage through water.

If you decide to sell it drop me a line; it's a great boat.
 
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