I'm replacing the gunwales on my SR Tranquility. They were pretty badly bent from a wind storm incident so I got it for a good price even adding cost of new black anodized aluminum gunwales from SR.

My query is, should I use a removed gunwale to cut to length and pre-drill the new for the rivets - like every foot - or do it all in place on the hull? I thought I could pre-drill for the thwarts as well, just not end caps as they seem less likely to align the same.

And I assume I should intentionally NOT reuse holes in hull but drill those new with new gunwale set in place.

Tips appreciated. I'll try to photograph? to share for the next one of us.

Thanks!

The directions that I got, which worked very well:
Before removing any rivets from old gunnels, first mark where every rivet is with a small dot right below the gunnel (it actually works best to use a permanent marker). Next, remove the end caps. Now measure from the hull end to the hole for each thwart. Draw a picture of the canoe showing measurements to each thwart hole, seat hanger etc. Only one side is needed as they are to be the same. Remove thwarts, seats and gunnels. You can use the old gunnels for length, but DO NOT mark for holes. When you get the new gunnels on the canoe, ALL holes get moved 1" (you choose which direction) to be sure that you do not hit any of the old holes. The marks that you placed below the gunnels for the old holes are now used as a guide, though 1" away from where they were. This way no measuring is needed for those holes, just move each hole 1". The dots from the old holes also help to make sure the new gunnels are all the way down.
It helps to have an extra hand when installing new gunnels. You can put them on at the same time, but lay an 8' 1" x 4" across the canoe to rest the tail of the gunnels on during the process. Once a gunnel is started on, place a spring clamp over it to keep it from popping back off (have a bunch of them handy, use a rag over the gunnel to keep the clamp from scratching the gunnel). Work your way to the other end of the canoe. Re-adjust/add clamps as needed. Make sure both gunnels are all the way on before placing the first rivet. After all rivets are in, use a pencil to mark holes for thwarts etc. Place thwart in place to be sure it fits as it should. Drill holes and attach thwarts. Do the caps last. With these it is not so important to miss the old holes through the hull as you are just worried about fastening them to the new gunnels.
I've done 3 SR's using this plan and they all came out fine.

When I replaced the gunwales on my Wenonah Jensen 18 a couple of years ago I found it difficult to use the old ones for measuring purposes because they were so bent. I carefully measured the actual hull. The caps at each end cover up any slight variations/errors in length. I believe Wenonah specifically indicated not using the old holes in the hull.

So be sure to miss old hull holes and no one pre-drills the gunwale.

OK