Boundary Waters Quetico Forum
Listening Point - General Discussion
Garage sale find - Bell Northstar BlackGold
She's been sitting unused in a backyard for several years..... not certain on exactly how long but the registration sticker expired a decade ago. The wood has rotten away - the seats & hangers, handles, thwarts, all of it. At some point, maybe the reason why it got parked and abandoned, a limb fell on it and bent the port gunwale by the bow seat and also put a pretty severe looking crease into the laminate. After it had been sitting some idiot plunked it with a pellet gun and put a pea-sized hole completely thru the hull also near the crease. No doubt about it she's a fixer upper but am I not too far off in my belief that it looks worse than it is? Some patch and reinforcement work, new gunwales, seats, and thwarts? Sand & refinish the hull in some fashion to remove oxidation and broken down resins from UV?
Canoe came out of the factory in 2002.
Here's some photos of it as it was received by me:
There are also lots of spiderweb type cracks all along the sides and bottom without any other apparent damage.
The skin seems very UV oxidized as well. I hit a test spot with some Windex to cut thru some of the grime of being outside for so long and was heartened to see the blackgold pattern emerge before fading a bit once the ammonia evaporated off -
Did I get more than I can handle? I've never done fiberglass work before, although it seems straightforward.
I think you can fix it up with a little money and some elbow grease and patience? I think you would just need a 'glass or kevlar patch for the one spot. And you can do the gunwales in a 4-6 hours if you get a bunch of C-clamps and a second pair of hands. Thwarts and seats are easy. Northwest canoe and Ed's canoe are where I get my supplies.
If I can fix up one, and I'm Mr. "Not so handy," you can too. I fixed this Flashfire up for my wife (she wanted a sit-on-bottom seat) and it looked like it had been dragged down a gravel road and left in the weather for years to rot. Gunwales were reinforced with Duct tape AND Electrical tape. The worst was trying to get all the Duct tape residue off! The pictures show the finished product. It looked MUCH worse than yours. As for the pool noodles on the thwarts, that was my wife's idea and she loved it.
I think you will be happy with the boat. If you don't want it, I'll take it off your hands for what you paid and $25 for your trouble!
"Let us live so that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry." Mark Twain
It was listed for $75 and the guy wanted $60 because I drove ~25 miles to come get it. I didn't have change so we settled on $70 and he helped me put it on my roof.
Were you able to avoid high shipping fees on your gunwales? I'm figuring that will be a good chunk of the cost.
The spot by the seat has me the most concerned... I'm not sure if it has a clear gelcoat on the outside or if the stuff I'm seeing flaking off is the resin. What's underneath appears to be bare cloth in the spots where its completely gone.
On the inside of the hull there is a definite crease the length of the spot on the outside. No doubt whatever fell on it was very heavy.
The spot flexes when I press on it, but not without some effort. Its softer than the opposite side for sure.
Open to all thoughts and opinions on how to go about the repair. =)
Actually, the guy that sold me the boat HAD the gunwales, but never installed them, so I avoided the shipping cost. I'm going to send a link to someone much better at canoe refurbishing than I. My buddy Pete is a retired vascular surgeon. Where I say "Ahh, close enough," he would require perfection. Of course, you would hope a surgeon would have that attitude (LOL)!
Here's a few pics of another "Holy" Bell that was damaged that he fixed and you would have to examine it closely to see where it was damaged. I'll send him a link to the thread, ok?
"Let us live so that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry." Mark Twain
Lucky about the gunwales. There are a couple canoe shops in my area. I'll see if maybe I can't source my replacements thru them when they get a shipment. Wonder if I could drive my own set... gas would be cheaper than shipping but presumably the aluminum would need to be supported its entire length so that would mean making something to bolt to the minivan's roof rack to strap them to.
You could also look at the possibility of replacing the gunwales with wood rails but that entails finding long pieces of straight grain ash (or other suitable wood) which has gotten difficult. You can join shorter pieces of wood together with scarf joints if you have any rudimentary woodworking skills.
Before you do anything, I would take some measurements of the beam, seat, and thwart positions. Measure the lengths of the seat frames and thwarts, if they have enough integrity to allow you to do so. When you rerail the boat, you may well need to jack out the sides a little with a spreader stick so that the beam comes out right.
I believe that Bell Canoe used a clear polyester gel coat on those BlackGold boats. At least they did on my Wildfire. And yes, they were prone to getting a lot of fine spider cracks in the gel coat.
I would start out by wet sanding the entire hull. Wash and rinse it well first. Probably start with something fairly coarse like 220 grit, and the boat will look worse after the initial sanding because the surface will be dulled and there will be sanding marks. But sanding with progressively finer grits will get rid of most of the sanding marks. You can go all the way down to 2000 grit in 5 or 6 stages. This will help get rid of some of the finer spider cracks. Applying a couple of coats of penetrating epoxy later will also help.
Before you do any structural patching, take the gunwales off. The bent gunwale may be holding the hull in a crushed shape and taking them off will hopefully allow the hull to resume its natural shape. The crushed area will need to be reinforced with interior and exterior patches. Personally, I would use 5 ounce/square yard aramid (such as Kevlar) on the interior, although you could also use fiberglass which will actually be less apparent (but less strong). On the exterior, i would use 6 ounce/square yard plain weave fiberglass. You can use either E 'glass or S 'glass. S 'glass is significantly stronger but costs twice as much. Fully wet out fiberglass patches with the weave fully filled with epoxy will be nearly transparent, unlike aramid or carbon fiber. How many layers depends on how soft the crushed area of the hull is, which should be very apparent with the gunwales off. I am guessing probably a 2 layer concentric interior patch and a single layer exterior patch.
If there is a lot of damage along the stems of the boat, you could consider covering those areas with thin abrasion plates consisting of a single layer of 6 oz. fiberglass or 5 oz. Dynel. Here is a link to a thread on another forum that has a lot of info on applying abrasion plates and general fiberglassing techniques:
skid plate application techniques
Applying a couple of coats of a thin viscosity "penetrating epoxy" to the hull after you have done all the repairs will help the appearance considerably. I like System Three Clear Coat for this purpose. I apply it like varnish using a disposable foam brush.
Here is a photo of the Wildfire I rerailed which was treated that way which had a lot of spider cracks (sorry I don't have a photo showing the hull to better effect):
Here is a link to a photo album that shows in some detail the repair process involved in restoring the Flashfire that Terry referred to. The process won't be exactly the same for your boat, but might give you and idea as to what is involved in composite repairs. If you view the photos individually, the captions describe the steps:
Seriously, Ted could put new gunwales and seats on that thing for about $600.00 if you can get the boat to him. The hull damage is an easy DYI project.
Endeavor to persevere.
Ed's Canoe breakdown gunwales do not use scarf joints. They have modified shiplap joints. I have not used them but I have heard some comments from some who have, and recently I saw some installed for the first time on a hand-built composite canoe.
The builder was not terribly happy with them. The joints left subtle but definite "hot spots" and did not follow the curvature of the sheerline as well as well-done scarf joints do.
Having said that, I didn't think they looked too bad and suspect that the average person would be satisfied with them.
2. Gunwales are not difficult at all if you wants to do your own. Just find some good straight grained ash and rip to correct size - Most likely 3/4 x 1 or similar- I'm sure you could find the dimensions on similar canoes. Many people prefer wood anyways over aluminum. The scarf joint is easy as well- just make it nice and long to give more bonding surface. You'll already have epoxy if your going to be doing repairs to the fiberglass. If you do it yourself the gunwales will run you about $20- which is about 2 ash boards.
You could probably find a good resource on how to do it through google.
I bought a 1998 mad river Explorer from a lady with rotted gunwales, but a solid hull. A friend got me some ten foot 1x4 10 foot pieces of cherry from a wood shop for $70. He and I cut the wood down to the same size as the old ash rails on a $200 table saw and rounded on side over with his router. Scarfed two pieces to make length and mounted it on after three coats of marine varnish. Been on ten years now and I suck as a carpenter, so fear not, you can do it.
"Opening a bottle of wine in a canoe is a desirable, but irrational act."
I was backpacking with the Scouts last weekend so I was unable to reply until now. I also have some new photos as I was able to give the exterior of the hull a good bath with palmolive and a sponge. I've also been in contact with Northstar Canoes about the boat to get their input on making her seaworthy again and they have confirmed the gunwales they use are the same profile as the old Bell Canoe Works.
I did new wood gunwales on my Tuf-Weave Spirit II last year, including new thwarts and carry handles to match. I sourced new decks from Noah's Marine and got trusses and seats from NorthWest Canoe.... I think I have the major part suppliers covered but if there's another outside of those three I'd love to check them out.
Still on the fence if I want to go aluminum or wood. Perhaps I'll go back to my local specialty lumber place and see about getting a 10' ash board to rip down. I do not have regular access to much in the way of power tools, other than a circular saw and a cordless drill... So, this makes it a little more difficult to execute. I had the help of a carpenter friend for my Spirit rerail last year and presumably he'd be willing to help again. Scarf or modified shiplap joints don't scare me if I decide to do a knock-down kit.
How well does ash take a stain? I think dark would look better with the hull than the whitish-yellow that Ash seems to be naturally.
The new gunwales we put on the Spirit are 3/4" square with a bullnose put on the outwale after we scarfed it & the inwale was left square.
The gunwales don't really concern me when it comes to the scope of the project... I've never done anything with fiberglass so I'm not sure the steps I need to take with the repairs.
I got a response from Bear @ Northstar, the gunwales are the same profile as what they're currently using. As pblanc pointed out it will be more cost effective to drive round trip to MN to get them if I decide to go the Aluminum route.
Bear's advice is to rerail the boat first, then fix the structural repairs on the inside, then perform any gelcoat repairs as necessary.
pblanc and others - by using S-Glass on the outside on the holes or on the horizontal crease, is this effectively taking the place of the gelcoat? I'll remove gel as necessary to get to the underlying fabric, apply epoxy, apply patch and ensure it's completely wet out, and then once cured fair it to blend into the hull?
The penetrating epoxy would be last then, once the hull has been completely sanded and prepped, to apply a consistent finish to the whole surface?
What's a good source for fabrics? So far US Composites in Florida or Jamestown Distributors in Rhode Island seem to have what I need. It'd be awesome if I could find the same fabric as what Bell used for the interior so the patch is less obvious but so far no luck. I think I'll need more Aramid and 'glass than what comes in the repair kits.
I have used a lot of their style 6522 plain weave 4 ounce, and style 6533 plain weave 6 ounce S 'glass. They both wet out very well. I have also used a lot of their style 500 plain weave 5 ounce Kevlar cloth. Sweet also sells Dynel cloth in 5 ounce weight (look under the "polyester" tab.
An aramid patch will be opaque when fully wet out and cured. It will therefore be very obvious. This will be true even if you can obtain exactly the same cloth that was used for the construction of the boat, because you will never be able to line up the weave on the patch with that of the underlying hull. Personally, I would use aramid on the interior for its great tensile strength and not worry about it. If you looked at the photo album I linked to earlier, you will see what interior aramid patches would look like.
If you want a less apparent interior patch, go with S 'glass. Fiberglass is nearly transparent when fully wet out. Heavier yarns or multi-layer patches will be apparent, but much less so than aramid or Dynel. I would use fiberglass on the exterior patch to allow the underlying carbon fiber to show through.
Yes, before patching, you need to sand down to the underlying fibers which means removing all gel coat externally. Again, if you looked at the Flashfire repair photo album, you will see where I did that for the exterior patches. Be careful when sanding the interior because if you abrade aramid too aggressively it tend to "fuzz up". It will be apparent when this starts to happen, however, so once you get some fibers exposed you should get a good bond.
If you use epoxy on the exterior of the boat, you will not be able to use polyester gel coat. Polyesters will not cure reliably over epoxy, even well-cured epoxy, and you could wind up with a huge mess. If you do apply penetrating epoxy to the exterior, yes, I would do it after all repairs. If the boat is likely to see a lot of outdoors sun exposure, you might want to cover the epoxy with a coat or two of good quality marine varnish for UV protection.
Fiber-glassing is not really hard but there are some tricks to it that make it a lot easier. I would suggest that you read through much of System Three's "The Epoxy Book" as it has a great many tips on basic fiber-glassing and use of epoxy. You can find it online here:
The Epoxy Book
The information in the book will carry over to the use of epoxies other than System Three, however the mixing ratios may differ.
A few general tips on fiber-glassing:
Have everything you need ready to go before mixing up epoxy. This includes application tools (spatula, plastic squeege, disposable foam brushes, chip brushes, foam roller, or whatever you plan to use), disposable gloves, paper towels, etc. Have your patches cut out and ready to go. If you plan to use peelply, have that cut out and ready to go.
Keep the batches of epoxy small. You will have a limited pot life when using epoxy and you don't need to feel rushed to get a large batch applied before it "kicks". Also, epoxy generates an exothermic reaction. The bigger the batch, the more heat it generates. The warmer the epoxy, the shorter the pot life. Have your epoxy handy in case you need to mix up an additional small batch.
Wooden sticks are handy mixing tools and can even be used to apply epoxy. You can buy them pretty cheaply in large numbers at arts and crafts stores or on Amazon. Sweet Composites also sells them. I like to use small clear plastic containers of the type that contain some Parmesan cheese that you might get with your take out pizza. I save these for mixing up smaller batches of epoxy.
Use masking tape around where you plan to apply your patches. It is easy to do. It will make it easier to wet out your patch quickly without fear of dribbling and making a mess.
I find that it is generally better to apply a thin coat of epoxy before laying on your fabric. Apply the fabric to the wet epoxy and the epoxy will help hold it in place and allow the cloth to wet out more quickly.
Treat your cloth with respect. Try to avoid tight folds as crimps will make it harder for the cloth to lay flat. Keep your cloth protected from atmospheric moisture which can interfere with resin bonding. Aramid especially is quite hydrophilic. I keep smaller pieces of cloth stored inside zip lock bags. Treat the cloth gently when handling to avoid snagging and fraying. I usually make a template of the patch I want to apply out of packing paper. Lay the fabric on a clean, flat surface and make sure that the warp and the weft of the weave is aligned at right angles. Lay your template on the cloth, mark around it with a sharpie, and cut inside the marked line.
When you apply a patch of plain weave fabric, it will want to change shape on you, trading width for length or vice verse. Having the outline of your intended patch delineated with masking tape will make it much easier to avoid this. As you wet out the cloth, be gentle and apply epoxy first to the center of the patch and then work out to the edges. Dab epoxy on the edges of the patch gently to avoid or minimize fraying. It takes some time for the fibers to take up the resin, so have some patience.
If you are applying a multi-layer patch of fiberglass, it is generally best to apply the biggest patch first and then concentrically smaller ones on top. This will allow you to feather the edges of the smaller patch(es) without cutting through the fibers of the larger patch. With aramid, I will often apply the smaller patch first and then cover it immediately with a larger one as the larger patch will sort of act like peelply to keep the edges of the smaller patch flattened. Aramid likes to soak up resin at the edge of the patch, and it does not sand well, so it is harder to get a feathered edge on the patch. Using peelply really helps keep the edges of an aramid patch from plumping up. Peelply can also be a time saver when applying fiberglass patches.
If you want a smooth patch as you would on the exterior, you will need to fully fill the weave of the cloth with epoxy. You can't do this all in one go. It will take at least one additional application.
Be aware of amine blush. You can generally apply more epoxy over epoxy that is wet or still green. Cured epoxy may produce a blush that interferes with bonding of additional epoxy. If you need to apply a patch over cured epoxy, wash and rinse the area first and wipe it down with denatured alcohol.
For the hole in the bottom where there is some ragged fabric left, should I use that to fill it back in before patching or should I trim the ends and just put two kevlar layers on the inside and one fiberglass layer on the outside? I like the looks of peelply and will use it in my repairs.
Thanks so much for the advice!
You had asked if you can stain ash. Yes you can. I haven't been very happy with using walnut stain. The open ash grain takes up the stain intensely and the dense ash does not leaving very dark streaks on ash that is still pretty light. I have been pretty happy with cherry stain (Minwax), however. It won't darken the wood as much but the take up is much more uniform. The gunwales and deck plates on this boat were stained cherry. Additional applications of stain would have resulted in a darker color:
Leaning towards getting a knockdown kit now, not sure from which of the two leading suppliers yet. Still trying to figure out best pricing. If I went aluminum, the cost of materials plus roundtrip fuel and meals/overnight in the TC likely negate any savings found in the lower cost of aluminum.
Just read a very informative thread from last fall between you, Alan Gage, and a couple other folks over @ canoetripping about S vs E glass.
Probably will start on this project in earnest in August or September, depending on how the summer unfolds. Maybe sooner if I get the boat over to the workshop and obtain the gunwales. How easily will the clear gelcoat come off where it hasn't been obviously delaminated? Is this hand sanding territory, random orbital, or a combination of both or perhaps some other tool?
Ordered & obtained the gunwales, decks, and thwarts from Ed's. Took about 10 days from when I placed the order to when I received it. Ed's was kind enough to put a kerf on the gunwale and also put a cove into the decks so they mate with their stock gunwale profile. No other progress than getting the main wood components. I'll order seats once the hull repairs are completed.
Here's some photos:
At first I couldn't understand why this screw wouldn't turn last night... LOL
Plans are to finish measurements tonight and maybe get the gunwales off so I can assess any hidden damage, then make plans for the new gunwale installation.
Question regarding the kerf - I know its my choice if I want the gunwale w/the kerf as the inwale or the outwale. My plan was to have it be the inwale so when drilling holes for the thwarts and seats I would be going through one solid piece instead of the thin kerf edge and then the other piece of the gunwale. Just seems safer for that edge and easier to finish up in the stem that way.
What would you do?
Not sure how well I explained this.......I think you'll figure it out though.
"What could happen?"
Never criticize someone until you walk a mile in their shoes....by then you'll be a mile away and they will be shoeless!
Got a little work one over the weekend, mostly epoxying the gunwale pieces together, sanding off cured resin from the gunwales, and trying to lay things out to get a sense of how they're going to go on the boat.
Cowdoc - took a closer look at your mad river restoration and it looks like maybe you did the gunwales first & proud of the hull edge so you could fit the decks? Also, based on your photos I think you kept the kerf edge on the outwale, which is how Ed's instructions allude to it.... I think there's just one spot early on where it says something to the effect of 'if you have a composite hull your outwale might have a notch.'
Here's a couple of your photos which makes me think you did it that way -
Cowdoc gunwales 1 and Cowdoc gunwales 2
I like your decks, by the way. Did you make them yourself or did you order?
I've found Noah's Marine out East is a source for canoe decks in various combinations of species, and used their cherry w/ash stripe ones in my Spirit.
I guess the only real difference of doing it kerf inwale vs outwale is the 1/8" that's lost due to the kerf. Ultimately I believe my thinking has changed and I'll install them similarly to you and as indicated by Ed's, with the kerf on the outwale so the inwale is full width.
My decks will be inset as well, I bought Bell decks from Ed's and they were nice enough to cove them to fit the gunwale profile. I see you glued yours in place, my intention is to just hold mine in place via screws.... I plan to finish the gunwales and decks with the same oil I used on the cherry woodwork for my Spirit II, which is a gunstock oil called Tru Oil. Open to suggestions including spar varnish as I know I'll be applying a coat or three to the exterior when done. I've already committed to occasional removal & refinishing of the hidden sides on the Spirit given my use of oil there.
Experience with joining the knock down gunwales wasn't as great as I would have hoped. I really like the idea of the countersunk screws for providing a mechanical bond in addition to the chemical bond of the epoxy but I think they make the screw fitting before cutting their shiplap joint. The instructions make it clear that material is lost due to the blade, however when the gunwales are joined there's a definite gap at the start and ends of the joints. I should have taken a little longer and tried to accommodate better for this, however I got a little excited about getting it done and went with it. For the record, I'm not unhappy with how they turned out, however I can see where I should have used a little better attention to detail. I mixed the entire batch of epoxy in a cup, according to the directions I should have had 30 minutes of pot life but after 15 minutes the cup was starting to get hot and the epoxy in the cup was turning to gel. Did I do something wrong here? I mixed thoroughly, scraping the sides and bottom with a plastic epoxy stick. When I was done mixing there were a fair amount of bubbles in the cup, maybe I mixed it too much? Need to go back and reread the Epoxy Book maybe...
In the end I was only able to get half the joints done using the epoxy sent by Ed's. I would have had enough had the epoxy not kicked early. Luckily I had some West 105/205 packets and mixed up a batch in a clean yogurt container. The West is thinner than what Ed's sent, and mindful of the 10 minute pot life I got to work on the rest of the joints and finished with a couple minutes to spare.
Before I get to photos, how would folks suggest filling the gaps or otherwise smoothing out the inconsistencies? My thoughts are a specialty wood filler from a place like Rockler or Woodcraft that's made with ash flour or maybe trying to make my own... On hand right now I have an obscene amount of West System microballoons, a takeout pizza size cup of West System fairing compound, and the aforementioned West 105/205 packets from a fiberglass boat repair kit I bought last year. I also have a foot "extra" on each set of gunwales so I could sand off one of the ends and mix that in with epoxy too.
I saw some discussion on another paddling board that if the joints were properly done that it shouldn't matter, as the resulting joint would be stronger than the surrounding natural pieces. I just want to make sure I'm not setting a future bow paddler up for a wild ride.
Ok, some progress photos...
Had to use a hacksaw to remove some of the bolt heads. Luckily, the trusses were already mostly broken or rotten away so I could push the bolts up. This is near the branch impact site and bent into a Z shape.
Removed the Bell end caps so I could take measurements from the stems. I won't reuse them so now I have a pair of near mint Bell vinyl caps!
Here's a sketch of the boat, because information is power!
Unwrapping the gunwales
Each Gunwale is split into 3 pieces, and then bundled as a unit. They then wrapped the kerfed and non kerfed gunwale bundles separately, then together to make a solid bunch. The edges of the cuts were somewhat protected by cardboard caps over the greater bundle. Some of the tips still got crushed.
I only got the first four joints epoxied & screwed together before the epoxy kicked. It was supposed to be 30 minute working time, only got 15. 1A in the photo was the last joint I did, you can see the consistency of the epoxy changed when it was tightened down, it was almost more like a slime. I will make a note where this joint is on the boat in case of failure in the future.
After I was done freaking about my lack of epoxy I remembered that I had the West 105/205 packets. 10 minutes, a clean yogurt container, and a popsicle stick later the other ends of the gunwales were also finished.
Ultimately I ordered 17' gunwales and Ed's shipped me 18' of reconstructed boards. I had to lay them out on a diagonal to fit in the garage.
The next day.....
Dremels are neat, but man do they need a soft touch. Softer than what I can provide, maybe...
Here's a joint that didn't turn out too bad once I sanded off the excess epoxy.
Here's how I'd like to lay out the gunwales. They're clamped inwale to outwale, to give a sense of how it'll look on the canoe. Any issues with doing them this way? I would attempt to have at least one screw going through each of the inwale and outwale joints. Also, when the joints are lined up like this it seems to not leave as large of a gap at the joint.
"What could happen?"
I will probably end up dry fitting the inwales and measuring to ensure everything is well spaced.
Only progress last night was I cut the yoke, front thwart, and kneeling thwart. Handles will be cut after the gunwales are done and decks are installed. I used a piece of paper under the sawhorse to collect the sawdust to mix into a small batch of epoxy for gap filling and fairing.
The fairing was done in two batches... First I did the side that would be sandwiched to the hull. This was probably my better out of the two in terms of epoxy mix - the final product was about the color and texture of creamy peanut butter that had been warmed up slightly. Naturally, I did not get any photos of this. :-)
The 2nd batch was applied to the visible edges of the gunwales, again only on and near the joints to fair the opposing sides. This batch was a little more textured, I think my confidence on how the first batch turned out lead me to mix in too much sawdust. Of course, I did get a photo of this:
Didn't get any pictures of the finished results other than the above. However, I felt satisfied with what I had and after sanding to 220 with the random orbital I lined them up to start oiling the hidden sides. The gunwales need to be clamped together on the ends in order for them to keep the side I'm working on facing up. The source planks seem to have been a little warped.... I doubt it's going to cause a problem when installed, but they sure don't want to stay put on the horse.
Two of the gunwales (one inwale and one outwale) are a little darker than the other set. Right now I have them laid out with a light/dark combination on both sides, not sure if I'll install it that way or keep the darker pieces together.
Here's a light/dark pair. The top piece is only oiled on the right half.
Closeup of an inwale & outwale pair before wiping off excess oil. The dark is a shadow as I mostly have time to work on it at night.
Since the oil's out I also sanded and treated the end grain on the pieces I cut. Since there's nothing special about the kneeling thwart I just chopped off one of the sides vs finding the center & cutting from both sides.
Also unwrapped the decks & gave them a light sanding before applying oil. As with the gunwales, right now I'm focusing on all the hidden parts so they get protection from the elements. The rest of the surfaces will get sanded and oiled once installed.
That's about where progress will stay for the rest of this month. I plan to get another 2 coats of oil on the rails and at least the final coat will be wet sanded. The decks are at least a couple coats of oil behind everything else but will be caught up by the time installation happens. Turns out the thwarts use the same bullnose as the gunwales, so I was able to turn a scrap piece into the perfect tool to sand the cove on the decks.
Looks like I might need to shape the tops of the decks to mate to the gunwales... When dry fit against the gunwales I see that they'll either sit below the level of the gunwales or slightly proud. Looking at factory decks it seems like they're arched. What kind of tool would I use for that, a plane of some kind?
Only progress on the boat is the other night I finally found some time around 11PM to remove the "good" side gunwale and fit the new rails to that side. Nothing's been attached yet as the hull was pretty filthy underneath the aluminum and I needed to go out and get a new #8 countersink. Plus, I really wanted to get a good idea of where the scarf joints matched up to where seats will need to be attached. The good news is that it seems that I can avoid having the seats directly on an inwale scarf, but it might mean the front thwart will need to bolt thru it or the thwart will need to move fore a little. Guess time will tell once I get this side mounted and then focus on the other side.
One thing that seems to have happened when I was getting the gunwale clamped is that the very ends of two of the scarfs have opened ever so slightly... No more than the width of a fingernail if I allow it to open up. Curious what, if anything, I should do to try to reglue or reinforce those spots.