I was searching Youtube looking for videos on slip bobber rigging to show my gf and son in advance of our upcoming trip.

I saw a number of videos that instructed the angler to tie on a barrel swivel, or swivel snap AFTER the bobber, and then attach a 2-3' leader, split shot, then hook. I assume the use of the swivel/leader is to reduce line twist??

I've never seen this setup with a leader and was curious if you use this method and why.
I've typically rigged (for walleye) in this order:
1. Stop
2. Bead
3. Bobber
4. Split shot
5. Hook

Thanks

I would never consider using a leader. Will be interested in hearing if anyone does. If I was in an area where I was predominantly catching pike, I'd probably switch away from bobber rig to another type of lure......or more likely, move to a new location.

I personally use 2 splitshot (3/0 size I think) spaced 1" apart about 12" up line from a #8 octopus hook, then a waggler bobber, bead, and bobber stop. Or would use a jig in place of the hook and one small bb splitshot 12" up the line to keep the bobber from sliding all the way to the jig.

I have been to the BWCA 4 times now in the last 5 years. Typically stay for a week.
I had never caught any walleye until last year, and last year I caught many of them.
I actually caught them using one of those old fashion red/white fixed bobbers with a hook and leach.

This year, I am heading up July 10th, and I just set up a slip bobber rig, just like you mentioned.
I have the stop, then a bead, then the bobber, then a barrel swivel, then a 18" leader to the hook with a split shot about 9" from the hook.

It worked good for me, because I purchased some red octopus style hooks that were already attached to a flourocarbon leader. So I just looped it through the barrel swivel.

I really like this setup, and hope to do well with it.

quote irishluck: "I've never seen this setup with a leader and was curious if you use this method and why.

I've typically rigged (for walleye) in this order:
1. Stop
2. Bead
3. Bobber
4. Split shot
5. Hook "

You nailed it, Irish. The fine tuning comes with the hook, type of bobber, type or weight of split shot.

Less is more...bobber stop, smallest bobber possible for conditions, smallest weight possible for conditions, and smallest hook you're comfortable with.

I would definitely skip the leader. We were catching finicky walleyes on Lake Vermillion a couple weeks ago with slip bobber rigs and one friend of mine was using a leader and not getting any bites until he switched to just a #2 hook and a small split shot.

Some people use a leader of smaller lb test below the swivel than the main line so if they get snagged they can just break off the hook and not lose the whole rig.

I have never tried that way myself, I like to keep it simple and easy when possible.

Ahhh those pesky northern. Always crashing the party when you're walleye fishing. It's like an ornery drunk showing up, unlike a smallie crashing the party, who's more of a "fun drunk," dancing, jumping all around, making everyone laugh.

quote tarnkt: "Some people use a leader of smaller lb test below the swivel than the main line so if they get snagged they can just break off the hook and not lose the whole rig.


I have never tried that way myself, I like to keep it simple and easy when possible."

Same. Either smaller test or fluorocarbon line to reduce the visibility. I think it is more common to be seen when they are using braid and/or when likely to catch northerns as well. Fluorocarbon is also abrasion resistant so it is less likely to get cut.

quote BearRaid: "I would definitely skip the leader. We were catching finicky walleyes on Lake Vermillion a couple weeks ago with slip bobber rigs and one friend of mine was using a leader and not getting any bites until he switched to just a #2 hook and a small split shot. "

Oh, man. That WAS a light bite. Good for you guys for coaxing them out anyway.

If using braid line then I use a flouro leader. I think braid will spook a finicky fish with a stationary technique like a slip bobber.

T

Only time I've ever put a leader on a slip bobber setup is a metal leader when going for big pike. Irish mentions...

1. Stop
2. Bead
3. Bobber
4. Split shot
5. Hook

I don't always use the bead, and many times I'll use a jig, eliminating the split shot.

I've always put a barrel swivel below my slip bobber. The line from swivel to hook is the same line as that coming from the reel.

Why have I done it this way? Because that's how my dad taught me to do it. No other reason.

Are you all saying I can skip the swivel, and save myself two knots each time I rig up?

1. Stop
2. Bead
3. Bobber
4. Swivel
5. 3' leader 8lb flouro
6. Hook- One large split shot 12-18" above hook.

I always use a swivel when slip bobbering. I like a flouro leader on all lakes I can see more than 4' down. I won't spool an entire reel with flouro as it sinks and can make a real mess with line in front of the bobber sinking to the bottom especially when fishing from camp. Generally fish a 1' off the bottom so it's more than likely at some point I'm going to get snagged and lose a sinker and have the bobber fall off while reeling it in. The swivel prevents the bobber from slipping off. The last thing I want to do when anchored on a hump or fishing from camp at prime time is to move or hop in a boat to retrieve a bobber.

quote dele: "Are you all saying I can skip the swivel, and save myself two knots each time I rig up?"

In a word... yup.

I've used a snap swivel below the bobber... but for no reason other than I like to use those snells with the glow in the dark hooks.

So I just go stop, Bobber,snap swivel. The snap on the snell.

I don't think the swivel itself has much impact- its just to accommodate the smell.

I also like the swivel with a longer fluoro leader as others have mentioned and for the same reasons: less visibility, good abrasion resistance and it sinks. I like the swivel for less line twist. Also the weakest point when snagged is at the swivel so it is usually a matter of snelling another quick leader as opposed to the whole slip bobber set up. Most of the reels I take up are spooled with braid - which I like quite a bit bobber fishing since it floats - but when walleye fishing especially am concerned about fish being line shy and the braid being more easily seen than fluoro if tied directly to the hook. I admit though, that one of the biggest walleye I caught in the wilderness bobber fishing was captured on a rather lazy day when I just put a bobber on top of a black metal leader that I was using while trolling, so... maybe we overthink this stuff.

Looks to me like everyone is right depending on what you like to do. If your fishing straight mono you can skip the swivel but if your main line is braid and you desire a fluorocarbon leader then a small spro swivel seems like a good connection.

Does anyone else have "issues" with the stops which incorporate a knot which is trimmed? Mine always seem to slide around and I much prefer the little rubber stops.

My set up is knot, bead, bobber, egg sinker, swivel, 3 ft flouro leader then hook.

quote mastertangler: "Looks to me like everyone is right depending on what you like to do. If your fishing straight mono you can skip the swivel but if your main line is braid and you desire a fluorocarbon leader then a small spro swivel seems like a good connection.


Does anyone else have "issues" with the stops which incorporate a knot which is trimmed? Mine always seem to slide around and I much prefer the little rubber stops. "

These are my favorite - never fail and cast well. http://www.basspro.com/Arnold-Tackle-Speed-Stop-Bobber-Stop/product/1502050811556/?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions

quote dele: "I've always put a barrel swivel below my slip bobber. The line from swivel to hook is the same line as that coming from the reel.


Why have I done it this way? Because that's how my dad taught me to do it. No other reason.


Are you all saying I can skip the swivel, and save myself two knots each time I rig up?"

LOL......you using the swivel is possibly like me still preferring 2 splitshot instead of one larger one, think my dad and grandpa did it this way, but I just prefer it.

quote Frankie_Paull: "My set up is knot, bead, bobber, egg sinker, swivel, 3 ft flouro leader then hook. "

Egg sinker above the swivel, I'm going to have to try that thanks!

quote FlambeauForest: "

quote Frankie_Paull: "My set up is knot, bead, bobber, egg sinker, swivel, 3 ft flouro leader then hook. "

Egg sinker above the swivel, I'm going to have to try that thanks!"

I use this method as well. Works just fine an I see no drop in catch rate compared to my fishing partners, but maybe they are just terrible fishers? We all catch fish. I think the most important part is making sure your bait is with in 18" of the bottom and not laying on the bottom or 5' off it.

Pretty simple setup that has been used for decades.
1. Stop
2. Bead
3. Slip Bobber
4. Split shot
5. Hook
6. Leech

quote BearRaid: "

quote mastertangler: "Looks to me like everyone is right depending on what you like to do. If your fishing straight mono you can skip the swivel but if your main line is braid and you desire a fluorocarbon leader then a small spro swivel seems like a good connection.



Does anyone else have "issues" with the stops which incorporate a knot which is trimmed? Mine always seem to slide around and I much prefer the little rubber stops. "

These are my favorite - never fail and cast well. http://www.basspro.com/Arnold-Tackle-Speed-Stop-Bobber-Stop/product/1502050811556/?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions"

That looks pretty interesting. How exactly does it work? I'm assuming you pass the line through both holes and straighten it out? And it actually stays where you put it?

Yes, seems like they tend to slip if I don't get them on just perfectly. I plan to experiment with rubber stops next week.

quote bunker3: "

quote BearRaid: "

quote mastertangler: "Looks to me like everyone is right depending on what you like to do. If your fishing straight mono you can skip the swivel but if your main line is braid and you desire a fluorocarbon leader then a small spro swivel seems like a good connection.



Does anyone else have "issues" with the stops which incorporate a knot which is trimmed? Mine always seem to slide around and I much prefer the little rubber stops. "

These are my favorite - never fail and cast well. http://www.basspro.com/Arnold-Tackle-Speed-Stop-Bobber-Stop/product/1502050811556/?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions"

That looks pretty interesting. How exactly does it work? I'm assuming you pass the line through both holes and straighten it out? And it actually stays where you put it?"

I agree. I'd like to try that, too. thanks

I have never used a leader with a slip bobber.

I have never used a bobber stop before. All I need is a split shot on one side of the bobber and a mono knot where I want to first set the depth. I just take a piece of mono and tie several granny knots until it is big enough not to slip through the bobber, then I trim off the access and ready to go. If I want I different depth, just slide the knot, never had an issue.

Rubber stops were in my tackle box for the first time this year and I was quite impressed. They cast well and stayed in place. Very simple to put on also. There are different sized stops for different sized fishing lines, so pay attention when placing your order!

quote irishluck: "

quote bunker3: "

quote BearRaid: "

quote mastertangler: "Looks to me like everyone is right depending on what you like to do. If your fishing straight mono you can skip the swivel but if your main line is braid and you desire a fluorocarbon leader then a small spro swivel seems like a good connection.




Does anyone else have "issues" with the stops which incorporate a knot which is trimmed? Mine always seem to slide around and I much prefer the little rubber stops. "

These are my favorite - never fail and cast well. http://www.basspro.com/Arnold-Tackle-Speed-Stop-Bobber-Stop/product/1502050811556/?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions"

That looks pretty interesting. How exactly does it work? I'm assuming you pass the line through both holes and straighten it out? And it actually stays where you put it?"

I agree. I'd like to try that, too. thanks"

I pass the line through one hole then loop around twice then pass the line through the other hole. One loop and it will slip a little. Try it you will like it!