I have a brand new 10x10 1.1oz Sil-Nylon CCS Tarp and am getting ready to seam seal it prior to my trip in September. I need some advice.

Would you seal the seams from the underside of the tarp avoiding the protruding Nylon loops... OR... would you seal the top side of the tarp where the black hanging loops are?
Seems to me the underside would be better as sealing from the top would allow each black loop to be a potential leak point unless sealed from the bottom as well anyway.

Thoughts?

I don't remember what Dan recommends on the CCS site (underside, I think), but I'd just do both!

I sealed my tarp on the under side of the tarp. Use some talcum powder after the sealant dries on the seams. I just did a search and there are loads of posts over the years about this same question. There is a few with Dan the man giving his advice too, just use the search button.

Contact Dan - I bet you get the right answer

You should seal the underside seams only. Lay it flat and keep it somewhat stretched with a heavy book or something at each corner. Take your time and it will come out nicely. You can talc the seam seal if you want, but no need to do so if you let it cure overnight.

One other suggestion when you seal the seams. If you want it to look nice and neat use masking tape to have nice clean lines and no mess. As for where to do it do the underside of the tarp.

Never sealed mine, and after 10 years, no leaks, so I'm not sure it is really necessary. They are really great tarps. Mine is the heavier weight version, not the 1.1 ounce.

Tomster

quote quark2222: "Never sealed mine, and after 10 years, no leaks, so I'm not sure it is really necessary. They are really great tarps. Mine is the heavier weight version, not the 1.1 ounce.


Tomster"

Yep, never sealed mine either and haven't had any leaks. I've had the tarp for three years now.

quote quark2222: "Never sealed mine, and after 10 years, no leaks, so I'm not sure it is really necessary. They are really great tarps. Mine is the heavier weight version, not the 1.1 ounce.
Tomster"

Gosh, I didn't either, and no leakage? I've used a ton of the stuff in the past, but newer tents are already factory seam-sealed now, so I just never thought about it. It's been well-tested over the years and especially this past June at Trails End with nary a drop.

My CCS dripped a little around where the center pole attachment patch is but only a few drops. I plan on putting a little sealer on the underside of that area. I didn't seamseal the rest. I used most of the container of seamseal around a GraniteGear map case to keep the maps dry.

Per CCS instructions. Seam sealing is not necessary, however, seal the underside if being used as overnight shelter. That said, I did seal mine on the underside. Two tricks I use after seam sealing many tents and tarps include thinning the seal sealer with mineral spirits (little dab will do ya') to get a cleaner, neater and thinner seam seal as well as much faster curing time. I also seal it and let it cure/dry overnight strung tight in the garage the dust it with talcum powder to be sure it wont stick to itself.

quote quark2222: "Never sealed mine, and after 10 years, no leaks, so I'm not sure it is really necessary. They are really great tarps. Mine is the heavier weight version, not the 1.1 ounce.


Tomster"

quote quark2222: "Never sealed mine, and after 10 years, no leaks, so I'm not sure it is really necessary. They are really great tarps. Mine is the heavier weight version, not the 1.1 ounce.


Tomster"

I have the lightweight version. Never sealed. Works great!

quote BnD: "Per CCS instructions. Seam sealing is not necessary, however, seal the underside if being used as overnight shelter. That said, I did seal mine on the underside. Two tricks I use after seam sealing many tents and tarps include thinning the seal sealer with mineral spirits (little dab will do ya') to get a cleaner, neater and thinner seam seal as well as much faster curing time. I also seal it and let it cure/dry overnight strung tight in the garage the dust it with talcum powder to be sure it wont stick to itself."

After thinning with mineral spirits, how do you apply?

quote fadersup: "

quote BnD: "Per CCS instructions. Seam sealing is not necessary, however, seal the underside if being used as overnight shelter. That said, I did seal mine on the underside. Two tricks I use after seam sealing many tents and tarps include thinning the seal sealer with mineral spirits (little dab will do ya') to get a cleaner, neater and thinner seam seal as well as much faster curing time. I also seal it and let it cure/dry overnight strung tight in the garage the dust it with talcum powder to be sure it wont stick to itself."

After thinning with mineral spirits, how do you apply?
"

And what is the ratio of Sil-net to spirits?

Sorry I'm not following thread so I didn't realize the question. Just thin the silnet to about half as thick as it comes out of the tube and I don't do the whole tube maybe 1/3 at a time. Apply with the brush that comes with the silent or go to the hardware store and get a glue brush or two ( that is what the silent brush is). By seam sealing this way with thinner silicone (silnet) you will have cleaner and thinner seam seal lines that actually seal much better and cure much better ( note I still dust with talc powder before I pack away the first time) as well as using less silnet and having a lighter tarp. When I brush on I start applying with a brush right along the stitching lines and lap joint and brush only in the direction of the seam overlapping as much or as little as you want. You can thin the silicone to water consistency if you keep adding mineral spirits. I normally like the consistency about half way between the original silnet and water thick enough it won't drip of my brush easily. Typically I add small amounts of mineral spirits as I go since the silnet tends to thicken up while your seam sealing since the mineral spirits is drying out. It sounds much harder than it is and you will see the difference verses the thick straight silnet seam seal lines that stay very tacky for a very long period. BTW, you can buy straight 100% silicone (clear) from the hardware store and thin it with mineral spirits the exact same way and have a great seam seal.

quote BnD: "Sorry I'm not following thread so I didn't realize the question. Just thin the silnet to about half as thick as it comes out of the tube and I don't do the whole tube maybe 1/3 at a time. Apply with the brush that comes with the silent or go to the hardware store and get a glue brush or two ( that is what the silent brush is). By seam sealing this way with thinner silicone (silnet) you will have cleaner and thinner seam seal lines that actually seal much better and cure much better ( note I still dust with talc powder before I pack away the first time) as well as using less silnet and having a lighter tarp. When I brush on I start applying with a brush right along the stitching lines and lap joint and brush only in the direction of the seam overlapping as much or as little as you want. You can thin the silicone to water consistency if you keep adding mineral spirits. I normally like the consistency about half way between the original silnet and water thick enough it won't drip of my brush easily. Typically I add small amounts of mineral spirits as I go since the silnet tends to thicken up while your seam sealing since the mineral spirits is drying out. It sounds much harder than it is and you will see the difference verses the thick straight silnet seam seal lines that stay very tacky for a very long period. BTW, you can buy straight 100% silicone (clear) from the hardware store and thin it with mineral spirits the exact same way and have a great seam seal."

Thank you. That is very helpful.