Going into Crab Lake this September. The longish first portage got me thinking about an article I read years ago about using a rope stretched bow to stern so that you could balance the canoe by holding the rope with one hand down low instead of keeping your arms overhead the whole time. I can't remember what they called it.

Just wondered whether anyone knows anything about it, and if it works.

I have read some articles and seen some photos of people doing it this way. they just have there painter lines long enough to be able to tie together when portaging and use them. That way they serve a dual purpose and you don't have to rig a line specifically for portaging.

That is the technique used with the Knupac where the canoe yoke was resting on u-pieces on the top of an external frame pack. In that case, the canoe is really too high to reach above you. It does put your arms in a much more relaxed and ergonomic position. I haven't tried it with standard portage pads.

Note: for the Knupac, we did use two painters and they were connected in the middle with a snap buckle like used on pack straps or hip belts. That way, you can release the two halves of the rope if necessary. For instance, if you put the canoe down on the side away from the rope you can get trapped between the canoe and the rope.

Second note: I have found that sailing sheets are the best rope for this. Sheets are the lines used to control a sail by moving its back corner. For that reason, sheets are designed to have good feel and control by hand and have very little stretch under load, even when wet. West Marine is a good source for sheets.

I saw an article years ago, the guy didn't use a yoke, he had a regular center thwart and a tump. He put the thwart on the back of his shoulders and the tump held it in place. He also used a painter to adjust the balance and held it down low. He was a pretty thick bodied, strong guy, he swore by this method but I don't know if it would be suitable for everyone.

I have used this technique with a Knupac style pack and one rope and it works good. I found I didn't really need it so much with a canoe pack. I would try it and see if you like it. I would make a quick release to remove the rope and stow it on one end.

We had someone with us last year that was so good at portaging that on most he could carry the canoe balanced without touching it for most of the portage!

A well balanced canoe with nothing added on is my suggestion. I seldom use both arms up at the same time except in the wind or if especially rough terrain. I happen to have a S. River, but think other brands usually are close to balanced as well.

Double ditto the balance issue. I carry paddles, pdf and a few other things secured in the boat but am careful to have balance. Fighting the canoe can make a portage much more difficult than needed.

Dingle Line. I don't find it useful, but to each his own.

I try to balance and let my arms hang to my side. Inevitably I gave to use at least one arm at times. Much less with my Tranquility than my Q17.

I've done it before, I don't think it helps. When you pull on the bow or stern line it's hard to get the right amount of force. I think this is because you're not pulling down but more forwards or backwards. Remember that if your canoe is 16 feet long you're 8 feet from where the rope is attached so it's not a vertical pull on the bow, but much more horizontal, pulling the canoe backwards on your shoulders not down. When using your arms on the gunnels it's much easier to make small adjustments. I prefer switching my arms, having one hold and one at my side, sometimes completely balancing with both arms at my side.

It's been a number of years but if I remember correctly that portage is relatively easy to navigate and well traveled so it shouldn't be to much trouble. There is nothing wrong with taking it easy and taking a break from carrying a canoe if you want, there is no magical trick to making portaging easier.

I think I read here about a set up with a rod or wand - like on a window blind - attached to gunwale(s) not far from yoke. Might have been more of a harness not unlike a pulk.

quote rdricker: "We had someone with us last year that was so good at portaging that on most he could carry the canoe balanced without touching it for most of the portage!"

I have got the canoe so balanced when portaging this is almost true for me. That's with two paddles facing forward and one strapped in the stern.

Great for long portages: I did this last year on an angleworm-stewart loop.
Beware, The line will tend to snag trees and things.

quote Fearlessleader: "Going into Crab Lake this September. The longish first portage got me thinking about an article I read years ago about using a rope stretched bow to stern so that you could balance the canoe by holding the rope with one hand down low instead of keeping your arms overhead the whole time. I can't remember what they called it.

Just wondered whether anyone knows anything about it, and if it works."

not sure what its called either, but its exactly the technique I use. I use a 3/8" rope about 20' long. Works very well IMO

Note that a 20' rope is not much longer than the canoe and that is what works for me, too. With a well balanced canoe, you don't need to be hauling up and down on the bow and stern. Just some gentle guidance on a taut line to tilt the canoe for hills.

The stick method reminds me of a system for attaching adirondack pack canoes to a frame so that no hands are used. But those are small light boats. But I could see using sticks to adjust trim, too.