BWCA Rockguard on home-built paddles? Boundary Waters Gear Forum
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overland
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08/13/2017 05:37AM   (Thread Older Than 3 Years)
I'm finishing up a pair of cedar bent-shaft paddles that I'm building with the kind help of some other bwca.com folks, plus some published instructions. But I'm still confused about how to make a rockguard at the tip of the paddle. As I said, the paddles and blades are cedar (with some pine in the blade). I'm planning to fiberglass the blades with light-weight cloth, probably 4 oz. (Feel free to comment on the wisdom of this.) I'm using West Systems epoxy with 206 hardener. I'd like something to protect the tip. Advice?
 
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Savage Voyageur
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08/13/2017 12:53PM  
Lay the paddle on a flat work surface, I used non stick tinfoil to prevent sticking. Then just make a dam of Play-Doh about a half inch away from the paddle tip. This is where you are going to pour the mix. Make sure you have a clean and square tip on the paddle beforehand. Then just mix the epoxy and filler made by the West system and pour in the gap. It does not make any difference what it looks like at this point. When dry you just use a sander outside with a mask on to shape it. Keep sanding with a power orbital sander until you get the thickness and outside shape. After a few years of use you just add some more to the chips that are missing and it will be back in shape.
 
08/13/2017 01:02PM  
I just finished some paddles this week. I used a method which is described in Gil gilpatrick's book "building a strip canoe". The book describes using nylon rope slightly thinner than the blade which is soaked in resin for 10-15 minutes, then applied to the blade while held in a vertical position and left to cure.
One thing I did to improve this process and strengthen the bond was to use a rat tail file to put a groove in the edge of the blade before applying the rope.
 
Savage Voyageur
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08/13/2017 01:03PM  
Here is the directions... Epoxy Tip
 
overland
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08/13/2017 01:13PM  
Thanks for the advice and the link. What's the filler, though? And where can I get it?
 
marsonite
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08/13/2017 01:43PM  
I used JB weld epoxy to replace the rock guard on one of my paddles. Worked great.
 
mr.barley
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08/13/2017 02:44PM  
quote Savage Voyageur: "Here is the directions... Epoxy Tip "
I have done this with very good results. I keep this website in my favorites in case I have to do it again. Kind of hard to see in the picture.
 
overland
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08/13/2017 05:10PM  
I notice that Gil Gilpatrick in Building a Strip Canoe recommends using braided nylon rope soaked in epoxy to protect the tip. Has anyone ever tried that?
 
08/13/2017 05:55PM  
Scroll back up to my post at about 1pm
 
overland
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08/13/2017 06:34PM  
Of course. Please excuse my stupidity. I like your trick of using the file to create a groove.
 
08/13/2017 06:59PM  
I initially tried making the groove by holding the file in my hand which proved to be tedious and terribly inaccurate. To remedy this I took a 6" 2x scrap and cut a groove down the center on the table sawjust narrow enough that it holds the file from slipping, but wide enough to slip over the paddle blade. I will post a picture of my device later if you are interested.
 
overland
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08/13/2017 07:38PM  
Yes, please do. I'd love to see your jig.
 
08/13/2017 08:50PM  
Here's a couple pics
 
Savage Voyageur
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08/13/2017 09:36PM  
quote overland: "Thanks for the advice and the link. What's the filler, though? And where can I get it?"


West system is the name of the product. 105 epoxy resin, 205 hardener, 404 high density filler. You can buy it at Rockler stores or online.
 
Grizzlyman
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08/13/2017 10:42PM  
I use sanding dust from the wood im shaping for the filler. It will match your paddle color that way. It also tends to have a more vibrant color. I find the 404 filler always has a milky appearance even when colored. This pic is from the process from my most recent. It's black from walnut dust.

Also- I've always used plumbers putty for no reason other than I simply have. I will use savage voyageurs idea though of play doh moving forward. It's much more moldable and smells better too :).

 
overland
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08/14/2017 05:01AM  
I like the idea of using sanding dust. How much filler will I need for, say, one paddle?
 
Grizzlyman
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08/14/2017 06:27AM  
Not much. Teaspoon maybe if that? You need very little epoxy. Keep adding filler until it's like a runny peanut butter.
 
Savage Voyageur
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08/14/2017 10:44AM  
quote overland: "I like the idea of using sanding dust. How much filler will I need for, say, one paddle?"


It tells you how much on the can to use. You can also get a color to add to it to match. You can also add some very fine sanding dust fir the sander cup to darken. The filler is needed and it helps with the strength of the edge. Get all the bubbles out of the mixture or you will have to do a touch up.
 
08/14/2017 12:09PM  
I used Loctite Quick Set self mixing Epoxy recently. Its benefits would be easily purchased at your local home improvement store for $6 a tube, each tube should do a blade and it mixes in the tip, so its a bit easier to use. The first bit that gets mixed in the tip can be a bit gummy, so press out a dime sized bit first, then use. I was sloppy and went all the way up the blade, so I ended up using four tubes on two old paddles and spent a lot of time sanding. Rope caulk is a good barrier for the 'pour' as well, another home improvement store buy.

Daniel
 
**THE**Grand Rapids
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08/14/2017 04:18PM  
If you scroll about halfway down post "Saturday May 9, 200", the link shows pretty good picture instructions. My fear with just adding the epoxy tip to a smooth canoe paddle end, is that there is not much "grab". This design has more surface area for the epoxy to grab, and should hold up longer. (Plus it looks darn neat) http://www.redrivercanoe.ca/2009/05/

Haven't figured out how to hyper link it.....
 
Grizzlyman
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08/14/2017 04:40PM  
quote **THE**Grand Rapids: "If you scroll about halfway down post "Saturday May 9, 200", the link shows pretty good picture instructions. My fear with just adding the epoxy tip to a smooth canoe paddle end, is that there is not much "grab". This design has more surface area for the epoxy to grab, and should hold up longer. (Plus it looks darn neat) http://www.redrivercanoe.ca/2009/05/


Haven't figured out how to hyper link it....."


Welcome to the forum!You should register!

Regarding the "grab"- it's not an issue. Paddle will likely break before the epoxy does. - it soaks into the end grain. Besides, it's not like your putting a 2 inch rock guard on- most likely just 1/4" -1/2".
 
Bdubguy
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08/14/2017 04:55PM  
I used this technique on my last two paddles. I also used a file to put a concave surface on the tip for more bonding area. The rope turns black. On my trip to Horse this past July, we were running up river back to Horse Lake from Lower Basswood Falls. In one of the rapids, I ended up smashing my tip pretty hard into a rock. I thought that paddle was done. It did knock to rope guard loose in one spot, but was able to roll it back up over the edge. Needs some epoxy, but held up pretty well ....
 
Minnesotian
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08/14/2017 06:27PM  

Back in the day the rockguard used to be a brass roundover, much like this:
Brass guard

That was phased out because the nail holes were letting in water, thus weakening the paddle.

However, a modern take on the style can be found here using epoxy:
Rock guard

The guys over at Sanborn Canoe does this with their Minnesota paddle:
Minnesota Paddle

Kinda cool and brings a little flair to paddle making.
 
Grizzlyman
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08/17/2017 01:03PM  
quote Minnesotian: "
Back in the day the rockguard used to be a brass roundover, much like this:
Brass guard


That was phased out because the nail holes were letting in water, thus weakening the paddle.


However, a modern take on the style can be found here using epoxy:
Rock guard


The guys over at Sanborn Canoe does this with their Minnesota paddle:
Minnesota Paddle


Kinda cool and brings a little flair to paddle making. "


I love that brass look. You got me thinking now. I wonder if I could mix epoxy with brass grindings...

Metal flake for paint jobs would be way to shiny.
 
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