Making the switch to rope.

What are you all using? Brand/type/material?

Used braided 3/8 inch nylon most of my canoeing life. good strength, handling, knot holding, with a bit of stretch for flex. Only problem is double usage it does not float.
Have used 7mm kernmantle polly, which doubles as painter lines, stiffer but workable.
lately switched to nylon cam buckle straps, easy to use again some stretch. With the 7mm painter lines for tieing the ends.


butthead

I like these . Easy to adjust and re adjust if needed. rope ratchets

Why the switch from straps to ropes?

Sick of the buckle and shrinking.

Most people get sick and tired of rope and switch to straps . . .

Most people who do, don't go back to rope . . .

If you use rope, make sure you use one that doesn't stretch, learn the correct knots and double check everything once in a while.

"If you use rope, make sure you use one that doesn't stretch"

Not quite, knowing the rope will stretch and how much is more important than using no-stretch. Some shock absorption is not bad, and can be desirable.

Another rope benefit is versatility, straps not so much. On the other hand I'm a cordage geek also, and enjoy practicing tying and untying knots (why I consider tarps as entertainment).

butthead

I will preface this by saying I'm a material engineer and tend to over think these things.

I prefer polyester or polypropylene webbing and rope for car topping. Both have better uv resistance, water resistance and less stretch vs. Nylon. Polyester has the best abrasion resistance and is as strong as nylon during steady loads. Polypropylene is weaker (40ish%) but it floats.

Nylon works better for shock loads, but will weaken slightly and stretch when water logged.

Now, in application, these differences are probably pretty minor. I would maybe go up a size if you choose polypropylene vs the other two. I use polypropylene webbing and cam buckles over the middle and polyester rope with polyester webbing loop tie downs front and rear. I would't have a problem using any of them though.

I’m with boondocks for all the same reasons with the exception I prefer double braided polyester rope for tie downs front and rear. Nylon makes great mountaineering rope and paracord but it will elongate too much to hold tension (tight) over any period of time in a tie down application. Learn to tie a truckers hitch with double braided polyester rope and you can cinch and keep a canoe down as tight as you want and tighter than you should.

I can tie knots and lash a canoe to a car top carrier with the best of them, but I'll choose straps 100% of the time. They're more secure and more reliable than ropes.

Instead of changing from straps to ropes, I would strongly encourage you to invest in the right straps. Straps that don't have buckles.

Jackfish: "I can tie knots and lash a canoe to a car top carrier with the best of them, but I'll choose straps 100% of the time. They're more secure and more reliable than ropes.


Instead of changing from straps to ropes, I would strongly encourage you to invest in the right straps. Straps that don't have buckles. "

But, but---------macrame" made from straps is hard to do and looks odd!

buthead

Jackfish: " Straps that don't have buckles. "

How does one use a strap that has no buckle? Are you tying knots in the strap like one would tie knots in a rope? OR are you referring to just one type of buckle, such as a cam buckle or a ratcheting buckle?

Personally I prefer a strap with a cam style buckle. I have seen folks over-tighten ratcheting buckles and actually crush and damage the item being secured.

Dooger: "Sick of the buckle and shrinking. "

I have to admit I don't understand this; I've never heard anybody say anything about them shrinking. Are you using a polypropylene strap with a cam buckle like
this NRS strap ?

I use straps from Yakima. They don't have "buckles." More like cam fasteners.

I used to use nylon rope and secure with a truckers hitch. That worked well, so I can't say that I switched because of any major problems with the ropes.

awbrown: "I use straps from Yakima. They don't have "buckles." More like cam fasteners.


I used to use nylon rope and secure with a truckers hitch. That worked well, so I can't say that I switched because of any major problems with the ropes."

I guess it comes down to what you call the fastener.
NRS calls them buckles. From their webpage "Two center-mounted stainless-steel springs give our cam buckle a stronger, more secure grip on the webbing."

Yakima calls them buckles as well. "#8005006 Heavy Duty Straps
Getting your gear onto your rack isn’t complete until you’ve secured it. This pair of super strong box-stitched 16’ straps include soft, rubber-coated buckles to protect your boats and gear from scratches. Check out our RipCords for a more secure, locking solution.
https://www.yakima.com/heavy-duhttp://bwca.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=forum.editMessage&threadId=1063937&forumID=15&confID=1&action=replyToMessage&parentId=1064201"e=1#link0ty-straps https://www.nrs.com/product/1440/nrs-1-hd-tie-down-straps?avad=5434_f10f13b01&utm_source=avantlink&utm_medium=banner

My Yakima straps with cam-type “buckle”. Also a rubber protector so the canoe doesn’t get scratched. IMHO, they’re the best straps anywhere and will hold firmly regardless of the distance you travel, and at any speed.

Same straps that HuntinDave references above.

When they get old cams fail too .. the little spring loses its strength and the cam won't hold.

yellowcanoe: "When they get old cams fail too .. the little spring loses its strength and the cam won't hold."

Agreed. I always inspect before trips. They make new ones......go buy them.

Flat straps are the way to go. I've used NRS straps. They don't hold a grip well; they slip. I won't use'em anymore on long distance drives. They are OK for going to local lakes.
Those Yamaika straps look like the cat's meow, though.
I have some straps similar to NRS straps that are a stiffer composite. I purchased 'em from a local kayaking shop. Those are awesome. I put them on when I leave the house and drive 900+ miles and they still grip well. (I do check'em in route.)

Simplest rope to get if that is the route you want to go is 3/8" truckers rope. It's a orange and black twisted polypro rope with high strength ratings, is fairly pliable and holds knots well. Tie a bowline in one end around your crossbar, bring your rope over the canoe go under and back up around the crossbar on the other side of the canoe, run the loose end through a truckers hitch, pull it down tight and tie it off. Your done. I think I can tie a canoe down faster with rope over straps but that's just me and I don't think the time differences are that critical of a point to decide which one I use.

I use straps too with the cam buckles and have had no issues there. I do however tie of my loose end of the strap just below the buckle with a 2-3 half hitches just in case the buckle should slip. If your using a bow and stern tie off along with the straps it won't go far if your straps should loosen up a bit.

boonie: "

Dooger: "Sick of the buckle and shrinking. "

I have to admit I don't understand this; I've never heard anybody say anything about them shrinking. Are you using a polypropylene strap with a cam buckle like
this NRS strap ?"

Agree. Had a slip last year in one strap used for 15 years of trips. Replaced it. Easy fix, a lot less hassle than tying a rope.

I use kanulocks. They are lockable and have two stainless steel cables running through them so they can't be easily cut (theft). They don't slip when locked and the buckle is covered in rubber to protect whatever you are strapping down.

Not my photo, but it gives you an idea.




The strap is thick, beefy and feels like it will last a long time. Expensive but I think it's worth the peace of mind.
Kanulock

boonie: "

Dooger: "Sick of the buckle and shrinking. "

I have to admit I don't understand this; I've never heard anybody say anything about them shrinking. Are you using a polypropylene strap with a cam buckle like
this NRS strap ?"

These straps are great, you're right. Just a cam and not a ratchet strap, plus had a padding in place between cam buckle and your canoe. Wenonah has similar ones available, but I like the NRS better. 12' is perfect length to strap a canoe or kayak.

Rope would do fine too with truckers knots. I use straps and them secure front and back with paracord also.

Those kanulocks look interesting.

thomps33: "I use kanulocks. They are lockable and have two stainless steel cables running through them so they can't be easily cut (theft). They don't slip when locked and the buckle is covered in rubber to protect whatever you are strapping down.


Not my photo, but it gives you an idea.





The strap is thick, beefy and feels like it will last a long time. Expensive but I think it's worth the peace of mind.
Kanulock "

Nice! that buckle is positioned perfectly on the canoe. Right on spot where canoe flooring and side meet. Lockable is a great feature. I secure with segments of chain and combi-padlocks--cuz thieves are about--everywhere. It's a comfort to be able to stop by a supermarket on a route confident your canoe is still on the roof/racks.
Kanulock cost is minor compared to cost of a canoe.

Jackfish: "
My Yakima straps with cam-type “buckle”. Also a rubber protector so the canoe doesn’t get scratched. IMHO, they’re the best straps anywhere and will hold firmly regardless of the distance you travel, and at any speed.

Same straps that HuntinDave references above. "

Plus 1

Add this: any wind up to 50 mph In any direction (do not have experience with higher head winds) and you are still good at any speed you may legally travel. Use 4 straps for front, back, and 2 over the top, and the canoe does not move. We still check at each stop anyway.