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Boundary Waters Quetico Forum Gear Forum Home made truck rack |
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03/02/2018 02:47PM (Thread Older Than 3 Years)
I am planning on bringing 3 newbies with me to the BWCA this year. This is stretching me though since I'm so used to packing lightly. I will not have enough room in the jeep so we're planning on taking my buddies truck. He wants to keep the bed cover on so we will have to fabricate a rack out of 2x4s to haul 2 canoes. Does anyone have pics of a setup like this I could see? Most setups I've seen wont work with a bed cover. Need advice!!!!!
He has achieved success who has worked well, laughed often, and loved much. --Elbert Hubbard--
03/02/2018 09:16PM
MHS67: "Does the bed cover eliminate using the stake pockets? If so this might be an option. However I wouldn't make it out of wood. "
Just looked at it & we can still use pockets!! That gives me hope. :-)
He has achieved success who has worked well, laughed often, and loved much. --Elbert Hubbard--
03/02/2018 09:53PM
I'm thinking about driving up this year and bringing a canoe back to TX. I was going to do almost exactly what is shown in the picture. I welded receiver mounted bike rack for one of my sons and a bed extender (for long pieces of wood) for myself. For the canoe rack I would extend it back far enough to fully open my tailgate.
03/03/2018 07:02AM
If you can access the stake pockets you can fabricate a rack for anything with 2x4s (or 2x3s if you can find them) and deck screws.
Extra points for redneck styling. I once saw boat rack on a vehicle made from oak branches. They still had the bark on.
Extra points for redneck styling. I once saw boat rack on a vehicle made from oak branches. They still had the bark on.
03/03/2018 08:48AM
Northwoodsman: "I'm thinking about driving up this year and bringing a canoe back to TX. I was going to do almost exactly what is shown in the picture. I welded receiver mounted bike rack for one of my sons and a bed extender (for long pieces of wood) for myself. For the canoe rack I would extend it back far enough to fully open my tailgate."
On this one I made it wide enough to clear the tail lights. That way I can still open the tail gate. Later, I added a brace from the rack to the bumper to take some of the side to side movement out of the rack.
03/03/2018 09:32AM
MHS67: "Northwoodsman: "I'm thinking about driving up this year and bringing a canoe back to TX. I was going to do almost exactly what is shown in the picture. I welded receiver mounted bike rack for one of my sons and a bed extender (for long pieces of wood) for myself. For the canoe rack I would extend it back far enough to fully open my tailgate."
On this one I made it wide enough to clear the tail lights. That way I can still open the tail gate. Later, I added a brace from the rack to the bumper to take some of the side to side movement out of the rack. "
One thing I was a little concerned about with this rack. When you go on a rough road or come out a steep driveway your pickup bed torques one way and the cab the other way. That is also happening to your canoe. In your case traveling on the highway it shouldn't be an issue. On my last summer canoe trip I used my lumber rack.
03/03/2018 11:06AM
Do you have access to an aluminum boat trailer?
We used to have a 16' aluminum boat, and would use the bunk trailer to haul two canoes. This was the method I used for getting the boat off the trailer:
1. Back the boat and trailer up to a large tree. (Pick flat ground).
2. Attach a heavy tow strap to one stern grab handle of the boat, around the tree, and attach it to the other handle.
3. unstrap the boat, including the front clip.
4. Drive forward about 16", pulling the boat slightly off the trailer.
5. Place blocks under the stern of the boat.
6. slowly drive forward another few feet, being careful not to pull the entire boat off the trailer, just to the point that you can block the middle of the boat, a foot or so back from where it starts to rise.
7. Place blocks under the middle-front of the boat.
8. Slowly pull the trailer forward until the boat rests entirely on the blocks.
9. Now you have a bunk trailer, that you can put two canoes on. If you don't have a trailer like that, look around for a neighbor who does. Or even go to a lake near by, and see if someone has their boat in the water all summer, and has an empty trailer you can use.
Now you are done with the trailer, and need to put it back under the boat. How do you do that?
1. Back the trailer up to the boat.
2. Hook the ratchet strap to the front of the boat.
3. Make sure the stern of the boat, still has a strap around the tree.
4. Put your vehicle in neutral. (make sure you're on flat ground).
5. Slowly crank the wench, and instead of pulling the boat onto the trailer, as it is still strapped to the tree, you will actually pull the trailer, under the boat. When you have enough trailer under the boat, to support the front of the boat, remove the front blocks.
6. Slowly crank all but last portion of the trailer under the boat, until you reach the rear blocks.
7. Remove the rear blocks.
8. Finish cranking the trailer under the boat.
We used this method for a number of years, before I finally built a canoe trailer. If you're going to be a regular tripper to the bwca, I highly recommend building your own canoe trailer. You can pull it behind almost any vehicle, and if constructed properly, you can use it for other stuff, like motorcycles, lawn mowers, hunting etc. You can also rent it out to fellow Iowan's when you're not using it. I spent about 2k on mine, and have long since recovered that money thru a handful of rentals, each summer. I typically rent mine for $100 for a week. I could get more, but I'm not trying to gouge anyone. Be careful though, I would imagine there is a ton of liability if someone doesn't secure their canoes properly and they go flipping down the highway.
Albeit for a few years we had a rack like MHS67 for my brother's chevy.
We used to have a 16' aluminum boat, and would use the bunk trailer to haul two canoes. This was the method I used for getting the boat off the trailer:
1. Back the boat and trailer up to a large tree. (Pick flat ground).
2. Attach a heavy tow strap to one stern grab handle of the boat, around the tree, and attach it to the other handle.
3. unstrap the boat, including the front clip.
4. Drive forward about 16", pulling the boat slightly off the trailer.
5. Place blocks under the stern of the boat.
6. slowly drive forward another few feet, being careful not to pull the entire boat off the trailer, just to the point that you can block the middle of the boat, a foot or so back from where it starts to rise.
7. Place blocks under the middle-front of the boat.
8. Slowly pull the trailer forward until the boat rests entirely on the blocks.
9. Now you have a bunk trailer, that you can put two canoes on. If you don't have a trailer like that, look around for a neighbor who does. Or even go to a lake near by, and see if someone has their boat in the water all summer, and has an empty trailer you can use.
Now you are done with the trailer, and need to put it back under the boat. How do you do that?
1. Back the trailer up to the boat.
2. Hook the ratchet strap to the front of the boat.
3. Make sure the stern of the boat, still has a strap around the tree.
4. Put your vehicle in neutral. (make sure you're on flat ground).
5. Slowly crank the wench, and instead of pulling the boat onto the trailer, as it is still strapped to the tree, you will actually pull the trailer, under the boat. When you have enough trailer under the boat, to support the front of the boat, remove the front blocks.
6. Slowly crank all but last portion of the trailer under the boat, until you reach the rear blocks.
7. Remove the rear blocks.
8. Finish cranking the trailer under the boat.
We used this method for a number of years, before I finally built a canoe trailer. If you're going to be a regular tripper to the bwca, I highly recommend building your own canoe trailer. You can pull it behind almost any vehicle, and if constructed properly, you can use it for other stuff, like motorcycles, lawn mowers, hunting etc. You can also rent it out to fellow Iowan's when you're not using it. I spent about 2k on mine, and have long since recovered that money thru a handful of rentals, each summer. I typically rent mine for $100 for a week. I could get more, but I'm not trying to gouge anyone. Be careful though, I would imagine there is a ton of liability if someone doesn't secure their canoes properly and they go flipping down the highway.
Albeit for a few years we had a rack like MHS67 for my brother's chevy.
03/03/2018 01:04PM
MHS67 - do you by any chance have a photo from the back or another angle where I can see more detail? After more thought, I may not be able to extend it back for the tail gate so I may have to copy your design. I have a crew cab and it may be too long for a 17' 6" canoe.
03/05/2018 12:11PM
DeanL: " This is what I put together with some 2x4's and 2 deck boards. It fits in the stake pockets and allows for the bed cover to still be rolled over."
Yes, this looks like what I will have to do. Except we will be hauling 2 canoes.
He has achieved success who has worked well, laughed often, and loved much. --Elbert Hubbard--
03/05/2018 12:16PM
Blatz: "Is it a crew cab? I just use the roof of the cab on my Tundra. It's plenty big enough. No different than putting a canoe on a small car. I've had my Northstar Northwind Solo and 17 up there."
Ford f150 extended cab. Need room for 2 canoes.
He has achieved success who has worked well, laughed often, and loved much. --Elbert Hubbard--
03/05/2018 04:04PM
offroadjeeper: "Blatz: "Is it a crew cab? I just use the roof of the cab on my Tundra. It's plenty big enough. No different than putting a canoe on a small car. I've had my Northstar Northwind Solo and 17 up there."
Ford f150 extended cab. Need room for 2 canoes."
It's not the width for 2 canoes that's the challenge. It's the crossbar, or in your case the cross plank (distance between planks) that is your challenge. Yakima suggest 30 inches minimum. If you have that on your extended cab then you can use the roof. Remember,the top straps are the key to a solid canoe ride on the roof.
03/05/2018 08:40PM
For all you ebay' folks. I got the hitch mount a couple years ago for $55 as a yak carrier that had never been used. Picked up the cab mount for $100 I think in the for sale section here.
Couldn't buy the aluminum and make my own for the two parts for that amount.
Couldn't buy the aluminum and make my own for the two parts for that amount.
KevinL
03/06/2018 12:44AM
KevinL: "You can borrow mine if you like. I need it from May 26-June 3rd.
Suction cup on roof, hitch mount on back. Cover still works over bed. Just give me a call or walk over when the snow and ice is gone and you are mobile.
It will haul two with ease. "
Hey Kevin, That's awesome. I'll probably be hitting you up on this offer. I've looked at similar setups but just couldn't bring myself to spend that much money for a one time trip. We would need it June 19th-24th. Thank you!!!
He has achieved success who has worked well, laughed often, and loved much. --Elbert Hubbard--
03/07/2018 02:32PM
About $175 worth of aluminum and I have had the canoe from the last pic and 2 yaks on it at highway speeds.
Before we built this I used the bed extender in the last pic inverted to go above the truck and spring creeks DIY roof rack for over the cab. I got enough sway from the bed extender for it to be an issue. I had to readjust straps repeatedly. Made for a tense 3 hour drive home the one time I used it for a long trip.
Before we built this I used the bed extender in the last pic inverted to go above the truck and spring creeks DIY roof rack for over the cab. I got enough sway from the bed extender for it to be an issue. I had to readjust straps repeatedly. Made for a tense 3 hour drive home the one time I used it for a long trip.
Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe. -- Albert Einstein
03/12/2018 01:25PM
analyzer: "goaljohnbill: "
Kinda begs the question:
How do you get in your truck in that situation?
"
It was easier than it looked... I made the student employee who parked the company van that close as a joke go out and move it to a different spot. He actually did fold the mirrors down on both to get them that close and then folded them back out.
Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe. -- Albert Einstein
03/14/2018 08:37AM
This is the rack I made a few years back, my main goal was that it be able to quickly fold up without tools and be locked in the bed of the truck. Has worked wonderfully for me, completely overbuilt but I also haul lots of metal and lumber with it.
He leads me beside quiet waters, he restores my soul. Psalm 23:2/3
03/15/2018 02:31PM
Jdawg: "Beast388
what type of hood tie outs are those? What do they attach to under the hood? "
Below is a link. These attached to fender bolts already under the hood. Just remove bolt, slip on the strap, tighten up the bolt. etc.
Yakima hood anchors
03/15/2018 02:46PM
You can make the same thing yourself with some webbing and a hot knife (plus a grommet setter if you want to be fancy). I made a set from NRS cam buckle webbing I had from changing a 15' strap to a 12' strap but I dont think I have any pictures of them.
Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe. -- Albert Einstein
03/20/2018 12:55PM
Unas10: "If you can access the stake pockets you can fabricate a rack for anything with 2x4s (or 2x3s if you can find them) and deck screws.
Extra points for redneck styling. I once saw boat rack on a vehicle made from oak branches. They still had the bark on."
Yep. Saw a canoe rack made of 2x2's & L-brackets/bolts & nuts on bed of a truck at Mudro entry last year. A quick improvision for the trip it seemed. It was fascinating to observe the triangled-bracing. Didn't look bad, either. Wish I would have taken a photo, now.
Have a look at different designs & prices: U.S. Racks. If you buy one from them make sure you drill 1/4" holes just above weld to truck bed rail brace--so water can drain from tubing else it will collect, swell and split tubing in dead of winter. I learned that the hard way. My neighbor came to rescue with an easy weld repair. Assembled in USA with China steel. Meh.
“If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants.” Sir Isaac Newton
03/20/2018 02:08PM
My observation on canoe racks: Commercially made truck racks are designed for hauling mainly lumber or ladders not canoes. The racks need to be higher, ladders are flat, the bow and stern rise on a canoe will often result in the canoe hitting on the roof of the truck (dependent on canoe design of coarse)
03/21/2018 09:50AM
MHS67: "
One thing I was a little concerned about with this rack. When you go on a rough road or come out a steep driveway your pickup bed torques one way and the cab the other way. That is also happening to your canoe. In your case traveling on the highway it shouldn't be an issue. On my last summer canoe trip I used my lumber rack. "
I've wondered about this. I have an 18.5 foot SR canoe and Ford F150. Right now, I use this setup (I have a 2-hole dog box and made this sawhorse thing to rest on that)
This sits at the back of the bed and supports the back of the canoe.
I use foam blocks on the cab to support the front of the canoe. Then, I tie down the front, back and middle of the canoe.
Do the foam blocks flex enough to protect my canoe when the truck flexes?
Fish where the fish are...
03/22/2018 08:38PM
Mad_Angler: "MHS67: "
One thing I was a little concerned about with this rack. When you go on a rough road or come out a steep driveway your pickup bed torques one way and the cab the other way. That is also happening to your canoe. In your case traveling on the highway it shouldn't be an issue. On my last summer canoe trip I used my lumber rack. "
I've wondered about this. I have an 18.5 foot SR canoe and Ford F150. Right now, I use this setup (I have a 2-hole dog box and made this sawhorse thing to rest on that)
This sits at the back of the bed and supports the back of the canoe.
I use foam blocks on the cab to support the front of the canoe. Then, I tie down the front, back and middle of the canoe.
Do the foam blocks flex enough to protect my canoe when the truck flexes?"
I would think your setup would work just fine. Any flex between the cab and bed of your truck should be taken up in the foam blocks. I would imagine that most canoes could flex a
little without any damage anyway . Looks like an ingenious setup!!
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