I have a new CCS 1.1 Sil Nylon Tarp. Which side of the tarp do I seam seal? The side that the center pole pocket is on or the other side? I assume that I just stretch it gently between a few trees and add the sealer? How long is the typical dry time using the sealer Dan provides? Thank you!

I sealed the “other side” as you put it as that faces the weather. I gave my tarp 24 hours to dry. As long as you get the sealer into the seam it should be fine. Go light with the amount you apply.

I sealed my tarp on the under side of the tarp. I spread it out on the floor and did one seam at a time. Use some talcum powder after the sealant dries on the seams to prevent the tarp from sticking together. I just did a search and there are loads of posts over the years about this same question. There is a few with Dan the man giving his advice too, just use the search button.

SilentPaddler: "I have a new CCS 1.1 Sil Nylon Tarp. Which side of the tarp do I seam seal? The side that the center pole pocket is on or the other side? I assume that I just stretch it gently between a few trees and add the sealer? How long is the typical dry time using the sealer Dan provides? Thank you!"

The method I was taught and continue to use works well and dries fast.

- GE Silicone II thinned with Mineral Spirits to a cool honey consistency
- With tarp pitched low enough to reach all seams but, reasonably tight, apply thinned silicone to outside or topside of seams with a foam brush-
- Wipe immediately with a clean cotton rag to force into seam and remove drips and runs.

Depending on the size of your tarp, you might need to add a bit of Mineral spirits before you finish. It evaporates as you work resulting in a thicker silicone product as you go.

This method leaves the tarp feeling dry to the touch within 10-15 minutes but, I leave it hang for 1 hour minimum.

I have used this method on my Tarptent, 2 Warbonnet SuperFly tarps and my CCS Tundra tarp. No leaks so far.

Good Luck

You do not need any mineral spirits to seal your tarp or any other magical thinner to make the job more cumbersome. Look at where the stitches are; on the weatherside of the tarp. Cover the stitches with the provided product and you are good to go. Just did this earlier today with a 10 x 8 1.1 tarp. Took about 10 minutes with the tarp staked to the ground.

Frenchy19: "You do not need any mineral spirits to seal your tarp.... "

No, you don't need it but, it does make a difference in how the seam looks and feels after sealing.

I did the underside of my tarp. I masked the seams so I wouldn’t make a mess.

OCDave: "

Frenchy19: "You do not need any mineral spirits to seal your tarp.... "

No, you don't need it but, it does make a difference in how the seam looks and feels after sealing."

Agreed. Used the mineral spirits method on my tarptent and that has been solid as a rock.

I did the underside. I made a mess, but it's 100% waterproof and able to support 80+lbs of water weight as my infamous photo proves......1.1 Sil Nylon is tough stuff


Note the dry area under the tarp :)

You can do either side as long as you get good coverage (I suppose you could do both if you choose) but doing the underside will keep the outside looking good if you happen to get a little messy. It’s recommended to lightly scrape off the old sealant before applying new.
As others have mentioned, let it dry thoroughly and apply a little talcum powder before storing.

Ge silicon needs thing because it has a different slump factor than Sil-Net. Either can be thinned, but the amount of thinning is less with Sil-Net or no thinning works also.

DanCooke: "Ge silicon needs thing because it has a different slump factor than Sil-Net. Either can be thinned, but the amount of thinning is less with Sil-Net or no thinning works also."

Used my new CCS 10 x 12 tarp last year...no extra seam seal, worked fine. I'll wait till it drips before I add to it; now my tent is another matter.