Swix,trilene or? Green,clear or other?

I use clear Trilene XL in the Quetico....don't know if it is the best but it has worked for me.

Berkley Trilene XL is the gold standard for spinning reels.

If I use clear mono I like copolymers because they have exceptional knot abilities. Gamma is my usual choice for clear mono.

I also like trilene XT in green in 4, 6 or 8lb test. I have done well trolling the 8lb green XT for lake trout including many in the 8lb class. It is also fine and dandy for topwater smallies.

I will be using the Invis X fluorocarbon by Seagar this summer. A wee bit pricey but I have had some good success with it.

I use Suffix or Trilene XL, whichever is one sale.

Go cheap and change often, at least once per year.

I have had best luck with Shakespeare monofilament line and bad luck with Berkley which just seems to have low tensile strength.

For you Trilene lovers-- try Stren Magnathin once. I did 25 years ago and never went back. Walleye Green color for most applications. Blows TRI out of the water for finesse applications. For pitching in heavy cover then XT TRI might be better. But finesse eye fishing - Magnathing is it for me.

At home, in the BWCA and Canada I use green #8 Trilene XL on my spinning reels.
I like the way it works, low memory, ease of knot tying.

Trilene clear XL.

GAMA is awesome but, so are many others. At the end of the day mono tech was perfected 30 years ago. Pline and others make copolymers for slightly more money that have superior qualities including knot strength, visibility, line stretch, etc... Trilene XL is very good monofilament line but, IMO some Japanese companies have blown by Berkley in the fishing line industry. Clear line is always hard to beat in clear water finesse presentations. All other situations line color is a moot point.

bobbernumber3: "Go cheap and change often, at least once per year.


I have had best luck with Shakespeare monofilament line and bad luck with Berkley which just seems to have low tensile strength."

I really agree with 1/2 of this and really disagree with the other 1/2.

I believe putting fresh line on your reels is one of the most important things you can do before a big canoe trip and I would never start a trip without fresh line. And that means making sure the line you are buying is fresh as well..........small bait shops may have spools which have sat for many years collecting dust. On my offshore trips which may last only for 3 days the line is usually spent in 1 outing and it gets replaced before the next trip (of course the stress and abuse from saltwater fish is a completely different universe).

As per cheap line..........I suppose that is open to interpretation. I certainly would not get an off brand type of mono. If what you mean by cheap (inexpensive) I would stick with name brands with a good track record.

I agree with what BnD had to say.

The Pline he mentioned, a copolymer, is a fine line and I have used their Florouclear in 30lb test (purchasing 3000 yd spools at a time) and have spanked some very big fish with it. I have, however, had disastrous results with their straight fluorocarbon fishing line after spooling up with 3 different line classes from a Cabelas. I could not get a single knot to stick after exposing the spools to 2 days of rain. Fortunately my pal had a spool of 8lb green XT and saved my entire trip. I took the spools back and insisted on a refund...........they brought the store manager and I challenged him to get a knot to stick. He could not and they gave me a full refund..........I have been shy about using fluorocarbon line (not leaders) ever since. Just recently I gave the Invis X line a go last year and it performed well.

mastertangler: "

bobbernumber3: "Go cheap and change often, at least once per year.

As per cheap line..........I suppose that is open to interpretation. I certainly would not get an off brand type of mono. If what you mean by cheap (inexpensive) I would stick with name brands with a good track record.
"

"

Right... cheap being inexpensive. You don't want the cost of your line preventing you from changing on a regular basis.
interesting article

Power pro braid to a swivel, swivel to flouro leader. fantastic feel, doesn't show in any water clarity. $12 a year for line per reel is not expensive when that is your main connection to the fish.

My go to is Trilene XL 8lb in Green. I will move up or down in line size depending on reel/bait/presentation, etc. but have never had any real problems with it. If I know I am going to be in a lot of timber or rocks I may make the switch over to XT.

I was just in two stores and they both had many spools of line. But one of the stores was out of #8 Green Trilene XL, and the other had a few of those left. Kind of says it all.

I like line that I can see so I can see hits that I can't feel. You wouldn't believe the amount of small ticks from large fish that are missed if you're just waiting to feel them on the rod. I used to use Berkley solar green but they seem to have stopped making it. Now I use Stren Gold and rarely go heavier than 6lb test. If you're worried the fish can see the line you can always use some sort of leader...I usually don't.

Wallidave: "I like line that I can see so I can see hits that I can't feel. You wouldn't believe the amount of small ticks from large fish that are missed if you're just waiting to feel them on the rod. I used to use Berkley solar green but they seem to have stopped making it. Now I use Stren Gold and rarely go heavier than 6lb test. If you're worried the fish can see the line you can always use some sort of leader...I usually don't."

I detest brightly colored fishing line unless I am high speed trolling or kite fishing offshore. Particularly any fluorescent line is what I term as "here I am line". Capt. Yuri, the best captain in the keys agrees and strongly urges his fishermen to forego brightly colored or fluorescent line.

The "ticks" that you are missing are not best felt through the rod but rather with your forefinger which should be in contact with your line. Eventually you develop a 6th sense and can be refined to the point where you don't even feel a tick but know the fish is there due to a tiny bit of added resistance (or a weed, a rock, a limb etc. ;-) I have certainly set up on my fair share of weeds and rocks.

6# Trilene xl for me.

Ford Dodge Chevy. I keep going back to Tri XL 6 or 8. Usually clear. I used to trust some Triple Fish too. Nothing is perfect. Just re-spool if in doubt of your 'old line' .

Trilene has controlled so much of the market over the years. I also wonder has trilene mono quality changed over the years orer mono still the same old mono?

I have not had a good experience with Trilene so I haven't used it in years. I started using Berkley NanoFil on my spinning tackle. Made for spinning reels, small diameter, no memory, cast great and no stretch. I like it. Just need to use a mono leader on the end as a shock absorber.

6 and 8 lbs. trilene XL, mostly green, but sometimes clear too if I happen upon a deal.

Based on recommendations above, I'd like to try some Stren Magnathin and see what I think.

My go to line is either straight Seaguar Invzx in 6 lb or Invizx as a leader line on 6 lb Fireline. If I'm fishing where I know I will get snagged often, I will go with straight Invizx so re-tying is quick. if I am vertical jigging in deeper than 15 feet of water, I really like the Fireline as it had very little stretch. A medium-light rod and a good quality reel with the drag set right, you will land most every fish you set the hook into. Both my brother and I landed 30" walleyes last year using 6 lb Seaguar Invizx. No lie. It is pricey, but it is all I use anymore.

WhiteWolf: "For you Trilene lovers-- try Stren Magnathin once. I did 25 years ago and never went back. Walleye Green color for most applications. Blows TRI out of the water for finesse applications. For pitching in heavy cover then XT TRI might be better. But finesse eye fishing - Magnathing is it for me."

+1 well 15 years ago.

Lannie: "My go to line is either straight Seaguar Invzx in 6 lb or Invizx as a leader line on 6 lb Fireline. If I'm fishing where I know I will get snagged often, I will go with straight Invizx so re-tying is quick. if I am vertical jigging in deeper than 15 feet of water, I really like the Fireline as it had very little stretch. A medium-light rod and a good quality reel with the drag set right, you will land most every fish you set the hook into. Both my brother and I landed 30" walleyes last year using 6 lb Seaguar Invizx. No lie. It is pricey, but it is all I use anymore."

You might be the angler which posted last year about Invizx last year and that gave me a nudge to try it. Liked it.........Hat tip to Lannie.

Quacker1: "I have not had a good experience with Trilene so I haven't used it in years. I started using Berkley NanoFil on my spinning tackle. Made for spinning reels, small diameter, no memory, cast great and no stretch. I like it. Just need to use a mono leader on the end as a shock absorber."

nanofil is the best on the market IMO
smooth like butter.

mastertangler: "If I use clear mono I like copolymers because they have exceptional knot abilities. Gamma is my usual choice for clear mono.


I also like trilene XT in green in 4, 6 or 8lb test. I have done well trolling the 8lb green XT for lake trout including many in the 8lb class. It is also fine and dandy for topwater smallies.


I will be using the Invis X fluorocarbon by Seagar this summer. A wee bit pricey but I have had some good success with it. "

Just remember that XT is one line size larger than XL for the line rating. 8#XT is the same diameter as 10#XL. Kinda untruthful marketing. I don't believe there is a fatter line than XT for it's rating, no wonder it is so strong. IMHO its good in bait casters and horrible in spinning reels. XT is most certainly NOT limp.

mgraber: "

mastertangler: "If I use clear mono I like copolymers because they have exceptional knot abilities. Gamma is my usual choice for clear mono.



I also like trilene XT in green in 4, 6 or 8lb test. I have done well trolling the 8lb green XT for lake trout including many in the 8lb class. It is also fine and dandy for topwater smallies.



I will be using the Invis X fluorocarbon by Seagar this summer. A wee bit pricey but I have had some good success with it. "

Just remember that XT is one line size larger than XL for the line rating. 8#XT is the same diameter as 10#XL. Kinda untruthful marketing. I don't believe there is a fatter line than XT for it's rating, no wonder it is so strong. IMHO its good in bait casters and horrible in spinning reels. XT is most certainly NOT limp."

Yes you are correct, more or less, concerning diameters. The 4lb green XT that I advocate has more in common with 6lb mono than most other 4lb monos.

I will disagree however that XT is horrible with spinning equipment. You are mostly incorrect. I say mostly because if you put it on a small spinning reel with a small spool then yes. But put XT on a larger spool and fish it in the smaller diameters (4, 6, 8) and it literally jumps off the spool and behaves quite nicely including some spectacularly long casts given the right rod. Throw in superior knot physics and less tangles and XT should be employed far more often than it is. An important caveat is the "clear" XT should be avoided like the Plague. It is anything but clear but rather chalky. The green is very effective in dark water. Less so in crystal clear water IMO.

XT clear is fine. Any monofilament line that is chalky is too old or has been subjected to too much heat. If it is chalky, chunk it in the trash.

PowerLizard: "XT clear is fine. Any monofilament line that is chalky is too old or has been subjected to too much heat. If it is chalky, chunk it in the trash."

Hmmmm.........maybe you are right. I have not put my eye on clear XT for probably 30 years. I just remember it being anything but clear........it had an off white opaque kind of look and I quickly rejected it. I am probably stopping in at a Bass Pro today in my travels (have to get a box to organize my Neko stuff) and if I remember I will refresh my memory.

I would be hard pressed however to choose it over the green which I have had so much luck with especially in the 4lb size (breaking strength of 6lb). Surprisingly tough stuff and able to handle trophy fish with the right rod.

I have been using stren magnathin for over a year now and have zero complaints. It fixed the twists in my ultralight reel and my bass rods. Plus it's super tough, I've broken snagged hooks with the 10lb test. Has been, by far, the best line I've fished with. Throw some on one of your spinning setups and you won't be disappointed.

Line for me depends on where and how I am fishing. I prefer lighter, firmer line. Most of the year, I fish creeks for smallies and my preferrence is 10lb spider braid in green moss, 8 lb Stren fluorocarbon or 6lb Yo Zuri Hybrid on my ultralight.

When I go to the bwca, I almost always fish with the ultralight rod and 6lb Yo Zuri Hybrid in a smoke color. I love the strength, durability, and lack of stretch. I jig fish most of the time, and bend hooks almost always before breaking off. My second rod for casting or trolling is the 10lb spider braid.

Sometimes we fish for big pike and I bring a rod with 17 or 20 lb fluorocarbon.

I do not understand the love for Trilene XL. I have used it and do not like the durability or stretchy nature of the line. I used to use Trilene XT on my ultralight and liked it until I tried the Yo Zuri Hybrid.

My go to line has changed over the years, and I recommend doing research and making a choice based on how you are fishing and what you are fishing for.

I just put some clear mono looking fluorocarbon will see how holds up to not twisting etc.

Pinetree: "I just put some clear mono looking fluorocarbon will see how holds up to not twisting etc."

What does that mean> "clear mono looking florocarbon"

What brand line are we talking about? Hopefully you didn't put some Vanish on your reel (do they still make that horrible stuff)

Berkley still makes Vanish fluorocarbon line. I use the 4 lb Vanish for trout leaders in Oklahoma. I will probably change fluorocarbon brands when the current spool is used up. It might take a couple of years because I don't trout fish much.

mastertangler: "

Pinetree: "I just put some clear mono looking fluorocarbon will see how holds up to not twisting etc."

What does that mean> "clear mono looking florocarbon"


What brand line are we talking about? Hopefully you didn't put some Vanish on your reel (do they still make that horrible stuff)"

It is just clear like a trilene clear mono would be,not colored. It looks like monofilment.

My wording I see is was poor.

Pinetree: "

mastertangler: "

Pinetree: "I just put some clear mono looking fluorocarbon will see how holds up to not twisting etc."

What does that mean> "clear mono looking florocarbon"



What brand line are we talking about? Hopefully you didn't put some Vanish on your reel (do they still make that horrible stuff)"

It is just clear like a trilene clear mono would be,not colored. It looks like monofilment.


My wording I see is was poor."

i would like to see you not have any issues as florocarbon fishing line (as opposed to fluorocarbon leaders) can be finicky at times with differing physics than mono. If you would desire to flesh out the nuances of use, perhaps you would consider starting another thread ("fluorocarbon vs mono" for instance) and we can kick it around some.

My advice is if you have purchased Berkeley Vanish I would strongly advise you to ditch it. That's just not my opinion, every one of my freinds in the guiding business and pro bass circuit share that perspective. The knot strength is atrocious and break offs on the hook set is all to common.

Tried Vanish once, and never really liked it much either.

Pinetree: "Tried Vanish once, and never really liked it much either."

OK good. A surprising number of Pros use Bass Pros brand FC as their main fishing line.

Try the tie fast tool and the Gryp Knot for FC. Be careful when tightening your knots regardless of which knot you decide on. FC is susceptible to generating heat which destroys your knot.

I tighten FC in 2 stages. Get it at least 3/4 (after wetting it of course) meaning you complete the knot and add some pressure........then I like to relax the knot before truly cinching it down with authority. That 1 or 2 seconds of easing off seems to help.