BWCA June trip - Crooked or Kawnipi? Boundary Waters Trip Planning Forum
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flynn
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12/08/2018 05:57PM   (Thread Older Than 3 Years)
I am already obsessively planning a trip for next year and have three or four routes I would love to do, but I think I will only get one. I want to have some great fishing with friends on a route where we get 2-3 nights at each site. We don't have to fish super hard every day, but I want it to be a bigger focus than this year's trips - it's fun!

Early June is the planned time frame, hoping fish are more shallow and more eager like they were during my trip around Knife, etc. this past June. Bugs might be bad, might be OK, really depends on the year, I think. It's nice to get a lot of daylight; not great for stargazing, but overall, I like the early June weather (sans wind).

I have read great things about Crooked fishing, and I would love to do an 8-day route through Mudro, staying on LBF (1/2) - Friday Bay (2/4) - Moosecamp (1) - Fourtown (1/2). As long as the water levels are decent in early June (should be), the Horse River shouldn't be too bad from what I understand. Should be able to make LBF by 4pm if we hit the water on Mudro by 9am or so, maybe a bit faster, maybe a bit slower since we like to take in the sights and double portage.

I have read amazing things about Kawnipi fishing, and have never been to Quetico before. Here I've got an 8day route through Cache Bay, staying on Saganagons(1)-McKenzie Bay(4/5)-Saganagons(1/2). I think the friends I plan to go with will be able to push from upper Saganagons to McKenzie Bay in a day as long as we don't have bad wind or bad weather in general, but Kenny and Sidney are an option on the way in and out of Kawnipi for sure. This is a nice route though, as my friends asked if we might do a trip with slightly less travel next year. Sure, the day into and out of Kawnipi will be long (probably 8-9 hours) but it will be worth it for the extended stay on an epic fishing lake, and so far it sounds like they might be OK with that.

What sort of key differences could I expect from these two trips, in terms of terrain, difficulty, beauty, isolation, fishing, water clarity, etc? Am I right in thinking that Crooked is better for smallmouth and Kawnipi better for walleye? Any other traits that might characterize the experience of going to these different places?

I really think I have narrowed my desired trip for next June to either of these routes, as long as my friends are in, of course, but so far it sounds like either one would be a trip to remember.

Thanks!
 
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12/09/2018 08:27AM  
I did the Mudro loop this year in August.
The trip from entry point 23 to LBF is pretty easy. Water levels were decent in August so it was an easy push. The Horse river had a an extra portage and we were able to line one rocky area but nothing major. We made it to camp just north of LBF by 2pm with a start time of 7:30am. We pushed steadily and we did not do any fishing the first day. If I ever run the horse river again I would like to try for smallies. For me the scenery really began at the Horse River. We stayed at campsite 1550 the first night just north of LBF. Was an OK sight. Had to paddle across to the small island in front for firewood as it was super thick behind camp and we didn't want to bull through it all.

2nd day we cruised down Basswood river to crooked. Trolled crankbaits all the way. Caught a nice size walleye right in front of the pictographs. We trolled all the way to site 1859 in Wednesday bay. We caught a few of each species, mind you we were not really trying and it was August! Loved this site so much we stayed 2 nights. Caught walleye all around the islands in front of camp and some small pike in the bay to the south. Hiked up to the top behind camp and was rewarded with an amazing view.

From there we paddled all the way across Crooked to Friday bay. Fishing at some spots that looked good. Just before Table Rock there was a very small island with reeds on the lake side extending out about 20 yards. We paddled by and my depth finder showed a significant drop off just past the reeds. we turned around and I threw a weedless spoon into the reeds and swam it through, bouncing off the reeds. Once past the drop off it was hit. The battle began. It was very short lived as 10 seconds into it I felt the biggest head shake of my life and the line snapped.

We stopped at Table Rock and waded out knee deep and caught smallies and walleye casting cranks. Also caught a few small pike.

All across Crooked the scenery was amazing. I love all the islands and channels. So much area to fish but we were on a mission to get a site in Friday bay. Didn't happen So we portaged out of Friday with intents on Chippewa or Niki and if that didn't work then Moosecamp. Long story short everything was taken. All the way to Fourtown we paddled. I thought for sure we would at least get a site on Fourtown but it too, was booked solid. It was getting late and we just headed for the entry point making it out around 9pm. I was really looking forward to Moosecamp lake.

I would like to go back to Crooked for sure but those lakes close to the entry point 23 were like a Garth Brooks concert in Central park.

I am planning our 2019 trip and I'm thinking of #14 all the way up into LLC and across into Iron and back into Crooked all the way back to LBF and out # 23. Planning it so the last day we may get a site on horse or the other lakes or just book it back out to Mudro.


Bdubr
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12/10/2018 01:02AM  
I make it a point to visit Crooked Lake every year. Love it. Some of the differences you can expect when comparing Crooked and Quetico are noticeable. In the Q, portages are rougher and less maintained, no latrines or fire grates at campsites, and far less people than on the US side. Also, there are several fees one must pay when planning a trip to the Q, which can add up pretty quick.

IMO, the fishing in the Q can be better, but no live bait (if that matters to you). Something else to remember is that Crooked is a border lake, so you could stay on Crooked and get the necessary permits to "cross the line" and fish the Canadian side of the lake. By doing this you open up a lot of opportunities for fishing, which there are already tons on the US side.

If you like lake trout fishing, go Quetico (IMO). Crooked Lake walleye can hold their own compared to Kawnipi in terms of both size and numbers if you know how and where to fish for them.

If it was me, I'd make the loop up to Crooked and get the permits necessary to fish the Quetico side on day trips if that's important to you. But if you want a relatively "easy" trip with world class fishing for walleye, SMB, and pike without all the fees....Crooked Lake would be my choice.
gravelroad
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12/10/2018 07:32PM  
You had me at “Kawnipi.” Lots of great memories associated wth that lake, including spotting this aquanaut between Kawnipi and Kenny a long, long time ago:



I think you’ll have a hard time finding people who regret making the trek there.
12/10/2018 09:07PM  
I have not yet paddled Crooked, on the list for sure. Kawnipi is special and as advertised a trip you would never forget. But Quetico is a lot more hassle and money.
flynn
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12/11/2018 04:03PM  
I'm not a fan of live bait. You gotta keep it alive and stuff - who wants to mess with that when the fishing is already as good as it is with plastics and lures?

Would I really regret not getting an Ontario fishing permit and RABC if going to Crooked? There's plenty of lake on the US side, and I don't really want to fork over the cash for the expensive fishing permit if I don't have to (I remember it being like $100/person/year). Granted, it is a fairly small portion of the trip cost, but it's something to be considered. The fees for Q in general are something I've accepted, and when compared to a vacation pretty much anywhere outside MN, even a 10 day Q trip is cheap (already having everything but canoe and lodging the night before).

flynn
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12/11/2018 04:21PM  
Kawnipi does seem like a sweet destination, with amazing scenery along the way (Falls Chain), but not easy to get there. It would definitely be a spot for base camping and day trips for fishing various bays (maybe even getting into McKenzie for a day) which would be pretty nice. I just have never done a route with a river, or with waterfalls. I would prep the heck out of myself and my group in terms of the current and water levels, and where each landing is supposed to be. We would be alert and all business during the approach to each landing. I'm not really worried about myself and my group going over a waterfall, but it is a possibility that has to be understood and prepared for.

The Crooked route does have some falls, but it seems a bit less dangerous. I have read things about the beauty of the lake, and how disorienting it can be (but in a magical way, some have said), and this really intrigues me. I am not jazzed about the idea about seeing people every single day (likely on that route from what I've read) but as long as people aren't shouting and spoiling the serenity, I suppose I'm fine with it, especially if the fishing really is solid and we have nice campsites to hang out at (twice as important if fishing isn't great or weather sucks).

The variety and easier difficulty of the Crooked loop is tempting (not just terrain but prep, cost, time from leaving the outfitter) but the allure of an epic first trip in Quetico with awesome fishing and more room to ourselves is also quite tempting, it's just more work. If I got my ideal site in McKenzie Bay (you probably know the one), which of course you can't count on, it would probably make the whole trip worth it (seems like a really nice base camp spot).

If my friends start asking more about the Kawnipi trip, I want to be prepared. If we get a tow from VCO to Hook Island and hit Hook at 8am, we should be able to hit Sidney by 2pm right, as long as weather isn't awful? I doubt we would hit Kenny in a day, as we'd want to enjoy the falls and not stress ourselves too much on our first day. It sure would make the voyage to McKenzie Bay shorter, but I just don't want to push myself and my friends to the point of snapping at each other because we're tired and sore from 8-9 hours of travel where we always had time on our mind and didn't stop to smell the roses.

One other question... as far as entry day goes, which days should I expect campsites to be taken, with regard to the days most people enter or exit (weekends)? If I put in on Saturday morning bright and early (let's say Mudro EP at 7:30am, water by 8am) and get to LBF that day, should I be able to expect at least one site open on LBF, since a lot of people are going to be leaving on Sat/Sun too? How about the story for Crooked - if we hit LBF on Saturday, should I be able to hope for a free site around Friday Bay on Crooked on Sunday mid-afternoon (2-4pm) because it will take most people the same amount of time to get there, and people will be leaving on Sat/Sun?

The reason I ask is, this year, I put in on a Friday at the beginning of June (literally June 1st) with friends and we got not only a decent site on Knife on the first day (too much headwind, meant to hit Kek) but also an awesome site on Kek on the second day, right off the portage from Pickle. I was happy to find these likely fairly popular sites open, but I don't know if that's because of the time of the year, or time of the week, or luck of the draw, or mix.
12/11/2018 06:35PM  
I too got to entry point #23 at the crack of dawn...along with every other permit holder. LOL We were # 4 to put out. It seems as though almost everyone of the other permit holders went up towards fourtown instead of LBF. We got lucky I think. We got the second site north of the falls. (Sunday entry)
I wouldn't count on being the first one out as most everyone else knows to try and beat the crowds. A site around LBF would be iffy on a Saturday. It's an easy day paddle from Mudro. As far as Friday bay campsite, if Friday is full just back paddle up to the north and start checking sites. I do not recommend hurrying from LBF to Friday though. That is the best part of the trip. It doesn't take that long to cover that distance either.
Don't worry about crossing in front of LBF it's easy to see where they drop off. Just stay south a bit and you'll be fine. You can see the portage landing from a ways out.

I use GAIA gps app on my Iphone for back up to my map. It works well for the trip around crooked. I had to check it a few times and turned around once. LOL We wandered into Canada at the end of the Basswood river into the bay east of crooked. Don't know the name.
Table rock is a great place to stop for a break. There is a campsite behind it too. Good fishing right in front.

If you are coming out Fourtown I would try and come out before the weekend. Fourtown is a popular weekend warrior spot and site availability will be tough.
Maybe plan on staying at one of the other lakes around it and paddling thru on your exit day.

I am jonesing to get back up there and still have months to go.
Bdubr
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12/11/2018 11:45PM  
Leeches are worth their wait in gold and have kept them alive on a two week trip no problem, but, to each their own. Sounds like you have your mind made up on the trip. If you don’t want to see many people, go Questico for sure. If you want to see LESS people on Crooked, stay on the west end near Sunday and Saturday Bay....
gravelroad
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12/12/2018 10:57AM  
flynn: "Kawnipi does seem like a sweet destination, with amazing scenery along the way (Falls Chain), but not easy to get there. It would definitely be a spot for base camping and day trips for fishing various bays (maybe even getting into McKenzie for a day) which would be pretty nice. I just have never done a route with a river, or with waterfalls. I would prep the heck out of myself and my group in terms of the current and water levels, and where each landing is supposed to be. We would be alert and all business during the approach to each landing. I'm not really worried about myself and my group going over a waterfall, but it is a possibility that has to be understood and prepared for."


I went out of the bow with the bow line at one of the falls, when it looked from my vantage point like we weren't going to make the shore in time. (We were trying to cut down portage distance.) My partner in the stern happened to be looking the other way and didn't see me go. :-) We ended up lining the boat over the falls, ass backwards after it yanked the stern line out of my partner's hands. Good times.

Did I mention the hundreds of mice at one of the campsites on the way to Kawnipi?
mgraber
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12/13/2018 11:09PM  
I have spent a lot of time on both Crooked and Kawnipi. They are both great lakes for smallmouth, pike and walleye, with Kawnipi being outstanding for walleye. Well, it was before the devastating fish kill :) Seriously, it is difficult for the BW to compete with Quetico for fishing. The portages are much more difficult, and the expense is much higher( around 20.00 per person per night plus RABC and expensive fishing license, outdoor card, tow, etc.). You won't regret the Q, but if you haven't done a ton of trips, I would consider the Crooked route(one of my favorite lakes) that way you can work your way up before you are ruined and save a ton of cash in the meantime. Be VERY cautious on Falls Chain if you do that route, it has killed a bunch and there are always smashed up canoes along the route. Stay on the same side and near shore as you approach the portages because you definitely don't want to pass them as it is difficult to impossible to go back if you have high spring water. Also, be careful below falls especially if fishing and not paying attention. Have a great trip!
SlowTroller
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11/11/2019 01:50PM  
Flynn, did you go on this trip? I did crooked this year and am looking at Kawnipi in 2020. Just curious what you decided and if a trip report was coming?
campnfish
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11/11/2019 11:49PM  
We did kawnipi this June, for 3 days we did really well, many smallies in the 19" range, honestly couldnt keep track, it was Hard to catch legal keepers. As for walleye we did ok, mostly small maybe a few decent. On Kenny on the way out my canoe partner got a 36" pike, and I got a 39" at the falls. The smallie fishing was awesome on kawnipi, weather and wind moved in and I think slowed things down alot after the hot start. We were all alone the entire time on kawnipi, I think just a solo guy out there.
scotttimm
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11/12/2019 10:43AM  
Hey Flynn - if you do Crooked - email me - I received an incredible download of fishing info and have good advice for some solid campsites. We had such a blast there last summer. I'd add Wednesday bay to your route if you want to get on some serious smallies.
 
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