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Boundary Waters Quetico ForumGear ForumIrwin Saw Sheath Build thread
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02/25/2012 10:56AM
Official BWCA.com Portage Keeper Signature Edition Irwin Saw Sheath Thread
This thread will be the communications center for this build, please reply in here, I’d rather you reply in here than email so I can keep the number current, it will be easier that way.
IMPORTANT: Even if you have replied via email or in another thread please repost in here.
This build will be for the 15” Irwin Pro Touch Saw as seen in the other threads.
THREAD
THREAD
If there is a need for a 20” version we will have to hatch that out in here, I am not in possession of a 20” saw but could be coaxed into getting one if there is a strong interest in sheaths for them.
The design is open to suggestions but will be based on PK’s original work.
Cost will be whatever the actual cost of components and nothing more. I will do everything I can to keep the cost as low as possible. As soon as I come up with a final cost I will post it in here. We will set a date to have your orders in by. You can either pick it up in person in Minneapolis MN, pay actual shipping, or I can bring it to Copia, I’ll be there Friday night, all day Sat and most of the day Sunday, I am also planning on being at the Copia Wing Night.
If you post that you want one you are obligated to buy it, I won’t pursue you but I will call you out on it in this thread, I don’t have a need for anymore than one and would hate to get stuck with $100 worth of sheaths for my 1 saw.
In addition to this being an excellent opportunity to get a quality semi-custom product for bare bones money I will also be turning this into a fund raiser to try and hook Portage Keeper up with 4 units for him to use with his crew in their clearing trips. You wont be obligated to help with this but it is strongly encouraged.
As stated above the design is somewhat fluid, if anyone has any suggestions by all means post them. I will keep this thread up to date with cost and design information.
I would like to get rolling on this ASAP to make sure I have them done for anyone looking to get one at Copia.
Below are pictures from other threads showing what the units will look like, hopefully nobody mind me using the pics, if they do just post and I'll remove them.
EDIT:
For the sake of not getting too overwhelmed I’m going to limit this build to 20,also this is the number I can make with one box of rivets.
Also I’m going to limit it to 2 per person (JoeWilderness, you are of course grandfathered in) This is just to make sure everyone that needs one gets one for this year.
Ragged 1
Portage Keeper 4
SunCatcher 1
Outdoors4me 2
Bojibob 1
Zulu 1
JoeWilderness 4
Thistlekicker 1
Jeroldharter 2
Maverick 1
Grumpy 1
AmHacker22 1
Fitgers1 1
Total as of 2/27/12 21
The list is complete
This thread will be the communications center for this build, please reply in here, I’d rather you reply in here than email so I can keep the number current, it will be easier that way.
IMPORTANT: Even if you have replied via email or in another thread please repost in here.
This build will be for the 15” Irwin Pro Touch Saw as seen in the other threads.
THREAD
THREAD
If there is a need for a 20” version we will have to hatch that out in here, I am not in possession of a 20” saw but could be coaxed into getting one if there is a strong interest in sheaths for them.
The design is open to suggestions but will be based on PK’s original work.
Cost will be whatever the actual cost of components and nothing more. I will do everything I can to keep the cost as low as possible. As soon as I come up with a final cost I will post it in here. We will set a date to have your orders in by. You can either pick it up in person in Minneapolis MN, pay actual shipping, or I can bring it to Copia, I’ll be there Friday night, all day Sat and most of the day Sunday, I am also planning on being at the Copia Wing Night.
If you post that you want one you are obligated to buy it, I won’t pursue you but I will call you out on it in this thread, I don’t have a need for anymore than one and would hate to get stuck with $100 worth of sheaths for my 1 saw.
In addition to this being an excellent opportunity to get a quality semi-custom product for bare bones money I will also be turning this into a fund raiser to try and hook Portage Keeper up with 4 units for him to use with his crew in their clearing trips. You wont be obligated to help with this but it is strongly encouraged.
As stated above the design is somewhat fluid, if anyone has any suggestions by all means post them. I will keep this thread up to date with cost and design information.
I would like to get rolling on this ASAP to make sure I have them done for anyone looking to get one at Copia.
Below are pictures from other threads showing what the units will look like, hopefully nobody mind me using the pics, if they do just post and I'll remove them.
EDIT:
For the sake of not getting too overwhelmed I’m going to limit this build to 20,also this is the number I can make with one box of rivets.
Also I’m going to limit it to 2 per person (JoeWilderness, you are of course grandfathered in) This is just to make sure everyone that needs one gets one for this year.
Ragged 1
Portage Keeper 4
SunCatcher 1
Outdoors4me 2
Bojibob 1
Zulu 1
JoeWilderness 4
Thistlekicker 1
Jeroldharter 2
Maverick 1
Grumpy 1
AmHacker22 1
Fitgers1 1
Total as of 2/27/12 21
The list is complete
02/25/2012 12:27PM
I will take one of the shealths you are making for the Irwin 15" saw.
I have enclosed a photo of my saw to make sure we are talking about the same one. This saw doesn't have Pro Touch mentioned anywhere on the packaging.
I just picked it up for $16.79 at Ace Hardwares 20% off today only sale.
Menards didn't have the coarse cut model.
I would have bought another one at that price to donate to PK but that was the last one and there isn't another Ace close to Stillwater.
Thanks for doing this.
Zulu
I believe I will need mine shipped to Stillwater, MN.
I have enclosed a photo of my saw to make sure we are talking about the same one. This saw doesn't have Pro Touch mentioned anywhere on the packaging.
I just picked it up for $16.79 at Ace Hardwares 20% off today only sale.
Menards didn't have the coarse cut model.
I would have bought another one at that price to donate to PK but that was the last one and there isn't another Ace close to Stillwater.
Thanks for doing this.
Zulu
I believe I will need mine shipped to Stillwater, MN.
02/25/2012 01:44PM
quote Zulu: "I will take one of the shealths you are making for the Irwin 15" saw.
I have enclosed a photo of my saw to make sure we are talking about the same one. This saw doesn't have Pro Touch mentioned anywhere on the packaging.
I just picked it up for $16.79 at Ace Hardwares 20% off today only sale.
Menards didn't have the coarse cut model.
I would have bought another one at that price to donate to PK but that was the last one and there isn't another Ace close to Stillwater.
Thanks for doing this.
Zulu
That looks like the one, some places call it a "Pro Touch", some call it a "Marathon" The Number on my cardboard sheath is 2011201, number on the UPC is "3854806502"
02/25/2012 03:37PM
Does anybody like the buckle retention shown in the one picture? This option would only be about 30 cents per unit and might be easier to work with than trying to install snaps, also if it were to ever break or get lost it could be repaired/replaced by anyone as 1" buckles are found anywhere and everywhere for next to nothing, I normally carry a few in my gear-aid kit.
I would like to hear everyone’s thoughts on this.
Also PK, what size snaps did you use, would you change anything if you were to do it again? Also did you do a snap on both sides? If not what did you use for the other side? (pic would be nice)
I would like to hear everyone’s thoughts on this.
Also PK, what size snaps did you use, would you change anything if you were to do it again? Also did you do a snap on both sides? If not what did you use for the other side? (pic would be nice)
02/25/2012 08:41PM
quote Ragged: "Does anybody like the buckle retention shown in the one picture? This option would only be about 30 cents per unit and might be easier to work with than trying to install snaps, also if it were to ever break or get lost it could be repaired/replaced by anyone as 1" buckles are found anywhere and everywhere for next to nothing, I normally carry a few in my gear-aid kit.I'll get some pic's in the daylight tomorrow and post them.
I would like to hear everyone’s thoughts on this.
Also PK, what size snaps did you use, would you change anything if you were to do it again? Also did you do a snap on both sides? If not what did you use for the other side? (pic would be nice)
"
I'll have to measure the snaps. They were just snaps off the hardware store shelf. Snap is on one side only.
02/26/2012 12:03AM
quote Ragged: "Does anybody like the buckle retention shown in the one picture? This option would only be about 30 cents per unit and might be easier to work with than trying to install snaps, also if it were to ever break or get lost it could be repaired/replaced by anyone as 1" buckles are found anywhere and everywhere for next to nothing, I normally carry a few in my gear-aid kit.
I would like to hear everyone’s thoughts on this.
Also PK, what size snaps did you use, would you change anything if you were to do it again? Also did you do a snap on both sides? If not what did you use for the other side? (pic would be nice)
"
That one I made. HDPE (leftover scrap of manure pit liner...LOL!) Hand pounded soft rivets. I think the pop rivets are cleaner. The strap and buckle were leftovers from the camping gear scrap heap. It's a little trickier to get the strap attatched.....gotta cut 2 slits to loop around. Make sure of your length so the buckle lays down flat on one side. It doesn't "bend" around the saw handle too well.
02/26/2012 12:49PM
A few photo's that may help...
First is of the strap fastening on the back of the sheath. I used the base of a snap for this with a washer to back it up. Of course, one needs to put the snap and fastener in place before the sheath goes together.
Making the strap longer on the back, and fastening with two spaced rivets will make a belt loop.
The next few photo's are of the sheath that I personally use. I went through the extra work to include a belt loop that stays on my belt. I put the side release buckle between the two. This lets me do brush nipping until I get to a tree where I need the saw. When I get back to the canoe, I just unclip it and drop it in the boat. This option really wouldn't be needed on normal canoe trips.
Last, are a couple photo's of my original prototype. The edges are laced. You may want to include this as an offer for those who may want to personalize sheath i.e. double stitch with leather lace or colored nylon cord etc.
First is of the strap fastening on the back of the sheath. I used the base of a snap for this with a washer to back it up. Of course, one needs to put the snap and fastener in place before the sheath goes together.
Making the strap longer on the back, and fastening with two spaced rivets will make a belt loop.
The next few photo's are of the sheath that I personally use. I went through the extra work to include a belt loop that stays on my belt. I put the side release buckle between the two. This lets me do brush nipping until I get to a tree where I need the saw. When I get back to the canoe, I just unclip it and drop it in the boat. This option really wouldn't be needed on normal canoe trips.
Last, are a couple photo's of my original prototype. The edges are laced. You may want to include this as an offer for those who may want to personalize sheath i.e. double stitch with leather lace or colored nylon cord etc.
02/26/2012 01:26PM
quote PortageKeeper: "A few photo's that may help...
First is of the strap fastening on the back of the sheath. I used the base of a snap for this with a washer to back it up. Of course, one needs to put the snap and fastener in place before the sheath goes together.
Making the strap longer on the back, and fastening with two spaced rivets will make a belt loop.
The next few photo's are of the sheath that I personally use. I went through the extra work to include a belt loop that stays on my belt. I put the side release buckle between the two. This lets me do brush nipping until I get to a tree where I need the saw. When I get back to the canoe, I just unclip it and drop it in the boat. This option really wouldn't be needed on normal canoe trips.
Last, are a couple photo's of my original prototype. The edges are laced. You may want to include this as an offer for those who may want to personalize sheath i.e. double stitch with leather lace or colored nylon cord etc.
Wow! Thanx for the great reply! Looks like there are all sorts of ways to skin this cat. I'll work on the design a little bit and post it for feedback. The lace option is doable, there would be no charge nor discount, but if someone would like to do it post in the thread, would need to know hole size and the spacing of the holes.
Unless there is mass objection I’m going to plan on using buckles for these, they are more readily available to me, easier to work with, require no extra tools, and will allow the end user to customize more.
02/26/2012 07:00PM
All right guys looks like we got 18, two more and this deal is done. I'm hoping to get on them this week, should have final pricing within a day or so but I have been updating the amounts and what is up there is likely pretty solid, I can't see where it would change much. I ordered a pretty large roll of 1" webbing and I should be able to ship a couple extra feet with each unit, this way everyone can play with how they want to rig it.
The design thus far can be seen below. You will notice some slits for the 1” webbing, these will allow you guys to find a configuration that fits your needs, should aid in lashing to packs or on belts or whatever you can dream up. You will also notice I added a little material to the end, while this does make the sheath a tiny bit bulkier it also allows the webbing to go completely down one side and back up the other, this simplifies the attachment of the buckles and allows for a ton of real estate for attaching to your pack.
I also put a 3/8” hole in the corner that is heavily reinforced, this will allow for a more substantial rope or carabineer to be attached. The weight should be very similar even with the extra material on the tip, I removed some extra bulk from the side panels, this shouldn't affect anything, just helps keep the weight down.
The entire rig complete with straps and rivets should come in right around 7.5oz, at least that’s what my computer is telling me, this will vary slightly with the amount of webbing you use. I left a solid 1/8” around the blade, while I can easily hold these to .0005” accuracy on the mill I didn’t want to make it too tight incase Irwin made small tweaks to the blades along the production runs, there is just no need to have it super duper tight. Nothing is set in stone, I would like all and any feedback you can give.
Also for those of you haven’t already done so go back and edit your replies in this thread and indicate whether or not you plan on having it shipped, pick it up in person, or get it from copia. I’d like to figure out how many envelopes I’m going to have to scrounge up. If anyone has a hook up on 16” X 10.5” envelopes let me know, we will need to buy some on the cheap for those needing shipping, this will only be paid by those needing shipping.
Last but not least, if you look at the last picture you will see a box around the 4 parts being made, you will see some dead space that is not used. It would be nice to think of something useful we would make with the material. To give you an idea of size the two circles are 2.75” in diameter. The material is .085” thick. Let’s get some ideas going!
The design thus far can be seen below. You will notice some slits for the 1” webbing, these will allow you guys to find a configuration that fits your needs, should aid in lashing to packs or on belts or whatever you can dream up. You will also notice I added a little material to the end, while this does make the sheath a tiny bit bulkier it also allows the webbing to go completely down one side and back up the other, this simplifies the attachment of the buckles and allows for a ton of real estate for attaching to your pack.
I also put a 3/8” hole in the corner that is heavily reinforced, this will allow for a more substantial rope or carabineer to be attached. The weight should be very similar even with the extra material on the tip, I removed some extra bulk from the side panels, this shouldn't affect anything, just helps keep the weight down.
The entire rig complete with straps and rivets should come in right around 7.5oz, at least that’s what my computer is telling me, this will vary slightly with the amount of webbing you use. I left a solid 1/8” around the blade, while I can easily hold these to .0005” accuracy on the mill I didn’t want to make it too tight incase Irwin made small tweaks to the blades along the production runs, there is just no need to have it super duper tight. Nothing is set in stone, I would like all and any feedback you can give.
Also for those of you haven’t already done so go back and edit your replies in this thread and indicate whether or not you plan on having it shipped, pick it up in person, or get it from copia. I’d like to figure out how many envelopes I’m going to have to scrounge up. If anyone has a hook up on 16” X 10.5” envelopes let me know, we will need to buy some on the cheap for those needing shipping, this will only be paid by those needing shipping.
Last but not least, if you look at the last picture you will see a box around the 4 parts being made, you will see some dead space that is not used. It would be nice to think of something useful we would make with the material. To give you an idea of size the two circles are 2.75” in diameter. The material is .085” thick. Let’s get some ideas going!
02/27/2012 04:44PM
quote Ragged: "
Ok so the plan will be to move ahead with this one
Provided the webbing system and holes play nice I'll make the rest this way, if they don't I'll eliminate the cutouts and go to a snap closure.
"
We all wish you the best young man and hope you have fun tonight
with this project. :+]]
02/27/2012 07:02PM
I'd be lying if I said I wasn't happy : )
The webbing seems to work great, the tri glides on either side keep it nice and tight so it doesn't snag on the blade when going in, without slack in the webbing it would be very hard to snag given the direction the webbing goes. The webbing even puts a tiny bit of soft pressure on the blade, really gives it a nice quality feel, the webbing system seems like it’s going to be ultra-adaptable to the end user. The large cutouts do not interfere at all, they will stay.
1 down, 20 to go
02/27/2012 09:05PM
quote bojibob: "Nice Job! Do we have a final cost?
p.s. some of us don't paddle in the BWCA."
quote kanoes: "nice job ragged. are those allen head cap screws? if so...loctite the nuts? got a pic of the other side?"
Those are just in there so I could play with one tonight, I have some solid aluminum rivets on the way.
quote bojibob: "Nice Job! Do we have a final cost?
p.s. some of us don't paddle in the BWCA."
I have been updating the cost at the top, it should be pretty accurate at this point, I can't see it changing by more than 50 cents and that would only happen if something didn't work out and we had to eat the $6 for a box of rivets or something like that.
Noted on the area thing, in the event that I come up with something to mark them I’ll ask b/4 I deface them all.
They are starting to breed!
I can't keep up with the machine, cleaning up takes longer than mill does, plus I got stuck using the little mill, no tool changer, so every 5 mins I have to go manually switch tools, getting a workout!
02/28/2012 11:02AM
quote AndySG: "Dang it Ragged! Now I'm gonna have to buy an Irwin saw just to get in on the next sheath build. Those look fantastic man."
There is always a chance of a 2nd build, or that someone will backout, I'll let you know if things change.
For the rest of you, I did make one small change last night, I'll be able to update the ones already done. After looking at mine and than PK's I noticed the tabs hanging out the back near the handle were a bit excessive, could snag if pulling it out of a pack, not sure how I missed this, I guess it just didn't click till I saw it with the saw in there. At any rate the change is reflected below.
02/28/2012 09:11PM
Well the good news is they are coming along nicely! The bad news is they are much more labor intensive that I would have thought, It’s looking like start to finish they are about 45-60min each, all the little steps are adding up…… but when you think about it from a numbers stand point it all makes sense, 80 custom machined parts, another 15 parts to complete each assembly, total part count per unit 19 parts, multiplied by 20 is 380 individual parts that have to be handled.
5-7 min prep, this includes ripping down the smaller blanks from a large sheet and applying the double sided tape to the back of the sheets
5 min setting up and changing tools on the mill
10-15 min to finish the 4 machined parts, this is mostly deburring and removing the flash as well as the rather lethal double sided tape used to hold the sheets down
3-5 min to install the webbing and buckles
3-5 for the rivets
5 mins for the heating and forming of the webbing guides
5 mins driving time (took about 2 hours to round up all the supplies)
It’s defiantly a labor of love but I’m glad to do it, I’ve pulled plenty of good knowledge off this site so it’s worth it.
As for a 2nd run, not sure how eager I will be to do one, I’d probably have to do it for something near minimum wage lol, would help keep the wife at bay, with a honey-do-list a mile long it’s hard to explain why I’m at work till midnight for 3 nights, a nice meal out and a bottle of wine would likely eliminate her concerns.
I went ahead and beveled every exterior edge, amazing how nice a little chamfer makes it look and feel, also here is a shot of the thermoformed webbing "pop outs"
I'm hoping to finish up most of the parts tonight, then tomorrow I can go and modify the sets from yesterday, then start on making a fixture for the thermoformed pop-outs. Then its off to stringing them up and installing 200 rivets, followed by shipping.
5-7 min prep, this includes ripping down the smaller blanks from a large sheet and applying the double sided tape to the back of the sheets
5 min setting up and changing tools on the mill
10-15 min to finish the 4 machined parts, this is mostly deburring and removing the flash as well as the rather lethal double sided tape used to hold the sheets down
3-5 min to install the webbing and buckles
3-5 for the rivets
5 mins for the heating and forming of the webbing guides
5 mins driving time (took about 2 hours to round up all the supplies)
It’s defiantly a labor of love but I’m glad to do it, I’ve pulled plenty of good knowledge off this site so it’s worth it.
As for a 2nd run, not sure how eager I will be to do one, I’d probably have to do it for something near minimum wage lol, would help keep the wife at bay, with a honey-do-list a mile long it’s hard to explain why I’m at work till midnight for 3 nights, a nice meal out and a bottle of wine would likely eliminate her concerns.
I went ahead and beveled every exterior edge, amazing how nice a little chamfer makes it look and feel, also here is a shot of the thermoformed webbing "pop outs"
I'm hoping to finish up most of the parts tonight, then tomorrow I can go and modify the sets from yesterday, then start on making a fixture for the thermoformed pop-outs. Then its off to stringing them up and installing 200 rivets, followed by shipping.
02/29/2012 08:48AM
quote rosmith01: "Hey Ragged, I would be happy to help with a nice bottle of wine and pay the fee. Is it really only about $12.00 for each sheath? "
Thanks for the offer! I'll let this batch go out, then maybe we can take some feedback to see what if any changes we want to make.
quote PortageKeeper: "I was kidding when I asked if you could inscribe a detailed topo map of the bwcaw on each of the rivets ;)"
Well dang it, I already started the programing! Sag has never looked so small.....
While playing with unit #1 last night I realized the wicked teeth of this bad boy tend to grab a little on the sides when going in, so I thermoformed the lower part of the opening to create a funnel and eliminate a little grabbing, worked out pretty nice, I think someone like PK will really like this as his will likely be in and out hundreds of times.
Also the Buckles and tri glides used were cheapest if purchased from Wal-Mart (still an American owned Co despite everything inside being made in China), I went to Midwest first but they wanted 59cents for a tri-glide (we needed 2) and over a $1 for the nice buckles, I give them enough of my money so I went on over to Wal-Mart and proceeded to get 2 tri glides and 2 buckles for .58 cents. So everyone will get an extra buckle that they can use in conjunction with the extra webbing, make a belt, make a strap for around the pack, make a shoulder rig, it’s yours to do whatever! Lucky for me I’m surrounded by Wal-Marts, had to go to 4 to get enough for this build. If you are looking for buckles at Wal-Mart, stay away from the north Metro, Fridley, Vadnais Heights, New Brighton and Brooklyn Park are out.
The rest of this build was pretty American in nature, the rivets are American made sourced from an American Company (McMaster Carr), the Plastic was sourced from an American Company (International Plastics in Eden Prairie MN),Clearly the labor was domestic. The CNC mill used was an old Milltronics Partner I, while old and ugly she never lets me down, can't say the same for the fancy China crap parked 10 feet away from it, a tool changer does you no good if the machine is busted.
This Mill was made right here in MN, they are still headquartered here and make all their machines in Waconia MN.
02/29/2012 09:36PM
Slowly but surely, the thermoforming is taking a bit longer than I had hoped, while ABS forms well it’s nothing like Kydex, but it’s also many magnitudes cheaper. There is a very fine line between warming to the point of it being malleable and just straight up melting you, this point must be approached very carefully, too little and it just bounces right back where it came from, too much and it will turn into a puddle of goo.
03/05/2012 08:24AM
Well guys I took a night off (Friday) but Saturday night I got back on it. Since everyone has been so great I decided to try and fit a Flying Moose Logo on there.
Problem one, I didn’t have a logo file to use with my software, Problem two, there just isn’t a ton of room to put one, if I do it will be small. Problem three, as stated above machining the logo would add about 25-30 hours of time, not going to happen, so I’ll have to try and brand it in there, I’ve never done “high definition” branding so who knows how it will turn out, I give it a 50/50 shot of looking ok, if it works it works if not I know I gave it my all.
So I spent a couple hours Saturday night trying to draw my best impression on the logo, leaving out a few things to simplify it and make it more machineable. I think it turned out ok. I spent Sunday afternoon experimenting and machining the stamp out of aluminum. Because this is a stamp I had to flip everything, thus why the moose is flying backwards. Machining metal, even one as soft as aluminum is challenging with detail this fine. I would have to drop down to a .010” bit to get all the details. For kicks I took a little video of the machine simulation, each color represents a specific sized cutting bit. I started with a .125”, then .075”, .030” and lastly .020”. I didn’t want to use a .010” as they can break easily and are very expensive, plus I don’t even know how well the heat stamp will work and what level of detail will transfer, my guess is not much.
Anyways hoping to get get the logo’s on there and get them out to you guys/gals soon.
SIM Video
Tiny Endmill
!$/a
Problem one, I didn’t have a logo file to use with my software, Problem two, there just isn’t a ton of room to put one, if I do it will be small. Problem three, as stated above machining the logo would add about 25-30 hours of time, not going to happen, so I’ll have to try and brand it in there, I’ve never done “high definition” branding so who knows how it will turn out, I give it a 50/50 shot of looking ok, if it works it works if not I know I gave it my all.
So I spent a couple hours Saturday night trying to draw my best impression on the logo, leaving out a few things to simplify it and make it more machineable. I think it turned out ok. I spent Sunday afternoon experimenting and machining the stamp out of aluminum. Because this is a stamp I had to flip everything, thus why the moose is flying backwards. Machining metal, even one as soft as aluminum is challenging with detail this fine. I would have to drop down to a .010” bit to get all the details. For kicks I took a little video of the machine simulation, each color represents a specific sized cutting bit. I started with a .125”, then .075”, .030” and lastly .020”. I didn’t want to use a .010” as they can break easily and are very expensive, plus I don’t even know how well the heat stamp will work and what level of detail will transfer, my guess is not much.
Anyways hoping to get get the logo’s on there and get them out to you guys/gals soon.
SIM Video
Tiny Endmill
!$/a
03/08/2012 06:53PM
Well this train is almost at the station. Lost a few nights earlier this week due to real work taking up the machine I needed but got back on it last night. The logos came out ok, not bad, not great. I hoped for better but wouldn’t have been surprised by worse. The logos are all just a little bit different and some are a little rough around the edges, in some ways this is befitting considering the environment they will soon be living in. Here are some pics of the setup I used.
Tools of the trade, Bridgeport, map gas torch, machined Flying Moose stamp, CNC machined fixture for locating the sheaths. I also drilled a hole in the stamp to install a thermocouple to try and keep temp on the stamp as constant as possible.
Better view of the thermocouple. The magic number was right around 450 degrees for 3 seconds
About to leave its mark........
Tada! The mark of the Moose, branded for life.
I used the CNC to mark my own personal unit with my newly formed LLC's logo, not too shabby!
Despite this only being on mine it’s true of them all
The Fleet
So the vast majority of the work is done, just a few loose ends to wrap up like finishing the ends off the webbing and other little things like that. I should be able to send them out Tuesday. I’ll be at Copia Fri-Sun and plan on handing off a couple while there. This was a fun project, Very fun at first, fun in the middle, left something to be desired on the back end, so take the highs and lows and avg and we have ourselves a fun project. At the end of the day it was for a good cause, a few people got something they may not have been able to make due to skills, tools or cost, everyone thus far has chipped in to cover PK’s so he’ll be able to spend his time clearing portages and not making sheaths, all in all it was a win win!
So what will the next project be?
Tools of the trade, Bridgeport, map gas torch, machined Flying Moose stamp, CNC machined fixture for locating the sheaths. I also drilled a hole in the stamp to install a thermocouple to try and keep temp on the stamp as constant as possible.
Better view of the thermocouple. The magic number was right around 450 degrees for 3 seconds
About to leave its mark........
Tada! The mark of the Moose, branded for life.
I used the CNC to mark my own personal unit with my newly formed LLC's logo, not too shabby!
Despite this only being on mine it’s true of them all
The Fleet
So the vast majority of the work is done, just a few loose ends to wrap up like finishing the ends off the webbing and other little things like that. I should be able to send them out Tuesday. I’ll be at Copia Fri-Sun and plan on handing off a couple while there. This was a fun project, Very fun at first, fun in the middle, left something to be desired on the back end, so take the highs and lows and avg and we have ourselves a fun project. At the end of the day it was for a good cause, a few people got something they may not have been able to make due to skills, tools or cost, everyone thus far has chipped in to cover PK’s so he’ll be able to spend his time clearing portages and not making sheaths, all in all it was a win win!
So what will the next project be?
03/15/2012 10:34AM
quote Arlo Pankook: "Yeah, I would be all over one of those if you build more.
This is nowhere near as good but should work in a pinch.
"
That would appear to everybit the same saw, good to know in case the Irwins ever get hard to find!
As for your rig, I like it, sometimes less is more, less stuff to go wrong
07/11/2012 05:45PM
quote schweady: "Ragged: How's this round of the project coming?
"
I didn’t get the fast start I was hoping for, the material just came in on Monday, the supplier I get it from didn’t have enough on hand and the manufacturer they get it from was apparently shut down for a week due to the July 4th Holiday (wish my work did that!)
But the raw stock is here, still waiting for all the clips to come in. Instead of driving to 7 different Walmarts (I did this last time) I went to the local one and had them order in a bunch just for me, I tried but just couldn’t find anyone that could beat the price on the parts.
Spent last evening ripping the large sheets down to size. Working on the updated tools for this round. I’m hoping to come in this weekend and run a bunch of parts, that way even if the mills are booked up I can assemble a few and get them out as fast as possible.
This list found above is accurate to the best of my knowledge, still waiting to hear back from a few from the old list, if anyone knows them and talks with them feel free to ask them if they still want one. In the event that I haven’t heard from them by the time I'm ready to ship I'll start moving them off and putting the people from the "wait list" on there.
quote centroid: "Ragged: I have a trip planned for August 17th. Do you think you'll have by then ?
If not, anyone care to loan the sheath for a week ? I'm in S. Minneapolis."
I don’t see an issue with getting it by then, hopefully sooner. Worst case you can sure borrow mine, I’m in Minneapolis as well.
While on this subject, is there anyone else with a trip planned in the next month that needs one for the trip? I had planned on filling them in the order they were spoken for but would be more than willing to bump a few people up provided there are no objections to this.
07/26/2012 10:14AM
Ok it’s been awhile since I’ve posted something so just wanted to give a little update, not slackin, I swear!
Haven’t got any ready to ship but I’m not necessarily running behind, just changed the plan a little. I decided I wanted to get all the machining done on the front end because it was (and still is) looking like I may not have a good window to do so in the next few weeks due to the machines being in use. So I spent all last weekend finishing up the blanks for the entire run. I have almost finished the new forming dies, they look pretty sweet, pretty overkill but that’s just how I do things.
I’ll post pics of the die setup later on. When doing such a large quantity even the little tasks add up. After I cut the blanks down to size I have to de-burr the edge’s to ensure they lay flat and don’t pop up, then wash every single one to make sure the tape I use will stick perfectly and that there are no specs of loose plastic hanging on. Multiplied by 30 this took a while. Then there is applying the double sided tape, another good chunk of time there. But at any rate I hope to be putting the first batch togeather in the next week.
Haven’t got any ready to ship but I’m not necessarily running behind, just changed the plan a little. I decided I wanted to get all the machining done on the front end because it was (and still is) looking like I may not have a good window to do so in the next few weeks due to the machines being in use. So I spent all last weekend finishing up the blanks for the entire run. I have almost finished the new forming dies, they look pretty sweet, pretty overkill but that’s just how I do things.
I’ll post pics of the die setup later on. When doing such a large quantity even the little tasks add up. After I cut the blanks down to size I have to de-burr the edge’s to ensure they lay flat and don’t pop up, then wash every single one to make sure the tape I use will stick perfectly and that there are no specs of loose plastic hanging on. Multiplied by 30 this took a while. Then there is applying the double sided tape, another good chunk of time there. But at any rate I hope to be putting the first batch togeather in the next week.
08/03/2012 03:21PM
Thanks for all the kind words!
Well my large order of clips and slides finally came in so I can finish this deal up.
I have a good amount of these completed and ready to ship, and the rest should follow very shortly, for those needing them shipped please send a check for $25 (this includes shipping and sales tax), make it out to Canoe Command LLC. If sending a check is not an option I can take Paypal, I just hate to pay their fees. If you wish to pick it up in person shoot me an Email and we can arrange a time.& place.
Mailing Address:
Canoe Command LLC
5250 Humboldt Ave N
Minneapolis, MN 55430
Please make sure you include the address you want it shipped to, your name, your Screen name on this website and if possible an email address.
Thank you
Well my large order of clips and slides finally came in so I can finish this deal up.
I have a good amount of these completed and ready to ship, and the rest should follow very shortly, for those needing them shipped please send a check for $25 (this includes shipping and sales tax), make it out to Canoe Command LLC. If sending a check is not an option I can take Paypal, I just hate to pay their fees. If you wish to pick it up in person shoot me an Email and we can arrange a time.& place.
Mailing Address:
Canoe Command LLC
5250 Humboldt Ave N
Minneapolis, MN 55430
Please make sure you include the address you want it shipped to, your name, your Screen name on this website and if possible an email address.
Thank you
08/26/2012 12:33PM
quote campcook184: "Does anyone know where the saws can be found cheap? I got one, bought a second sheath for a gift and now cant find the saw cheap. Did the craftsman saw fit the same?"
yep! the overmolding and wood finish are different color and of course the graphics on the Craftsman version are different
09/07/2012 01:43PM
quote tyh: "quote campcook184: "Does anyone know where the saws can be found cheap? I got one, bought a second sheath for a gift and now cant find the saw cheap. Did the craftsman saw fit the same?"
yep! the overmolding and wood finish are different color and of course the graphics on the Craftsman version are different
"
I checked Sears online and they do not have this saw. They have two that are the same size and shape and look but not the same teeth on the blade. Was this one in the photo found at a store? I'll have to stop at one and see if they still carry it but if it is not available online I would think the stores don't carry it either.
I did see on today at Mills Fleet Farm - the Irwin one - It was...aw nuts, I forget, it was either $17 or $18 and change.
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