BWCA Revarnishing SR Canoe..... Boundary Waters Gear Forum
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DrBobDg
distinguished member(850)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
07/10/2014 06:06PM  
Sanded down and varnish canoe according the Joe's directions at Red Rock. Turned out "OK".
However scratches really show up ....darn rocks and after 3 years needs some attention.

Should I sand the entire hull down again and re-varnish the entire thing..... or just lightly sand the scratches and re-varnish them.?? Being green Kevlar the scratches are pretty pronounced

thanks

dr bob
 
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pblanc
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07/11/2014 08:30AM  
In order to assure good adhesion of your new varnish to the existing varnish, I would wet sand the entire hull, or at least that portion you intend to revarnish. Something like 220-400 grit wet or dry paper should do the trick.
 
DrBobDg
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07/11/2014 04:54PM  
Then wash it, let dry, go over it with acetone?
Should I use the 333 brushing liquid before the Varnish again.?
any favorite brand of varnish ??

thanks

dr bob
 
pblanc
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07/11/2014 06:28PM  
Yes, after wet sanding I would wash the hull with dilute soapy water (I usually use Dawn dish washing detergent) then rinse well.

You can certainly use acetone if you like. I will usually just wipe down the hull with denatured alcohol.

I have had pretty good luck with the various Z-Spar varnishes marketed by Pettit, but I know a lot of folks who swear by Epiphanes.
 
davep785
member (21)member
  
07/19/2017 10:27AM  
Dilute the varnish? How many coats? Sand between?
 
DrBobDerrig
distinguished member(688)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
07/19/2017 11:02AM  
Here is Joe's (Red Rock) instructions that he eventually took down.

Refinish SR Canoe

...since this old post came back up.

dr bob
 
07/19/2017 11:32AM  

The steps I have taken to refinish,
Sand with 80/120/220 on orbital sander. Sometimes skip the 80 depending on condition.
Wipe down with rag, then tack cloth
Apply varnish with 6" foam roller
Lightly sand with 280
Apply varnish
Lightly sand with 280
Apply varnish



 
Mad_Angler
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07/19/2017 02:50PM  
Why do guys like varnish? I used epoxy. I thought I was supposed to do that.
 
billconner
distinguished member(8598)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberpower member
  
07/19/2017 03:33PM  
quote Mad_Angler: "Why do guys like varnish? I used epoxy. I thought I was supposed to do that."


From reading here, elsewhere, and my own experimenting, if there is glass showing - deep scratches or gouged, it probably needs epoxy. It's nearly a structural repair. If just surface relating, either should work. If you use epoxy, it will "blush" without a if protective coating - usually varnish. But not all worry about the if issue. Finally, I believe varnish is easier to work with than epoxy.

Pick your poison and enjoy. I just d3vided varnish - which was the recommended option at one time - and maybe do it more often. The scratches don't bother me. Blushing epoxy does.
 
07/19/2017 03:48PM  
Also, the varnish is supposed to inhibit UV damage of the epoxy.
 
Grizzlyman
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07/19/2017 04:04PM  
quote Mad_Angler: "Why do guys like varnish? I used epoxy. I thought I was supposed to do that."


To clear this up. Epoxy is not a finish. It's structural- its job is to procvide the strength to the hull by filling the cloth. Epoxy needs to be varnished with a UV inhibiting varnish (called spar varnish). If epoxy is not protected with UV inhibitors it will break down. UV light breaks down epoxy- it not only will cause the epoxy to yellow it will actually begin to break down strucurally.

Scratches can be sanded out of the existing epoxy, epoxy may also be added to fill deep cuts that can't be sanded out or if it's into the weave- but either way it needs to be protected 100% of the time from UV.
 
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