In another thread it can up that a sturdy pole structure was desirable. So, are fiberglass poles stronger or just heavier? Are poles more sturdy if they are in a casing as opposed to just "clipped" to the tent? What makes a more sturdy and stronger tent structure???

I tend to avoid fiberglass and carbon fiber poles. Carbon fiber is stronger, lighter and somewhat more durable than fiberglass, but doing repairs on either can be a bit "fiddlely." I would also suspect fiberglass is somewhat more susceptible to being degraded by sunlight.

So, for tent poles, my choice is "aircraft grade" aluminum. Generally, I prefer anodized because they tend to slide through guides easier and they also tend to pick up less debris. Ones that are color coded are also nice. I've never had one of these fail, but I do take an aluminum splint/sleeve and duct tape, just in case.

I don't care for pole sleeves because they can be a pain when trying to erect or take down a tent. This is sometimes compounded if the area of the sleeve is wet or moist (e.g., rain or condensation). I do like clips for the simplicity. I especially like clips with two points of contact and a wider attachment to the tent, although these seem to be a relatively rare design choice. (Multiple contact points per clip help distribute the "load" a bit better...for me this is mostly wind load since I don't winter camp.)

I also like having a tent with a "quick set" option. This arrangement allows you to erect the rainfly, ground sheet and poles without the necessity of deploying the actual tent. I find this useful if you need a short-term (quick) shelter or if you are having to setup/break camp in the rain. Most tents designed this way will allowing you to deploy or extract the tent under the quick set. This affords you to opportunity to keep the actual tent mostly dry.

dd

Guess I opened this can-o-worms so may as well add my 2 cents, for what it's worth.
A frames, pup-tents to Timberlines, 2 triangles attached by a bridge pole, strong from the sides not at ends.Need to be guyed out at ends especially and pullouts at sides where wind catches. A lot of hub connected frames fall in this category.
Dome 2/3/4 poles common, self standing, present more curve to wind and spread support across more poles (think pole intersections, more intersections more strength). Strength varies with design, simple 2 pole x configuration has 1 intersection between poles. Compound x 2 pole where a single pole forms a hoop from one side that intersects twice with a hoop pole from opposite side (2 horseshoes crossed at closed ends, MSR Elixir style). Add a third pole (ground to ground, not just a spreader pole), more anchor points and pole intersections.
Full geodesic with 4+ poles, more ground anchors, and hopefully a true geodesic pattern that is very strong ( North Face VE24, Mountain Hardwear Trango)
The oddball tents not seen often in the USA, tunnel tents get a lot of strength from arched main poles, but have to be well anchored at the ends like a suspension bridge, Walrus Hurricane Hole and Hilleberg Keron.
Far as poles the common fiberglass pole are flexible and easily broken (they could be stronger with good construction geometry). Aluminum tubing is a good upgrade, lots of types available. Strength usually depends on a mix of alloy, diameter, and wall thickness, which also affects the flexibility (soft easily bent to brittle), of the tube. Pole to body attachment is trending to clips (easy to use), from sleeves (stronger by spreading out stresses and loading, restricts air flow, more difficult to assemble).
Seeing more aluminum poles with angled bends, my own BSI Chinook solo has bends in 3rd cross pole, Marmot have their "knee bend" poles. No sure about the strength problems associated. Any bent curve in a pole section seems to be a weak point to me.
Carbon graphite poles have a lot of potential. Light and strong, biggest current problem is design structure. Tending to be too brittle, the are in their infancy as far as tent poles. Good example of better construction is found in the sport of archery which has more development history behind it.
This is a large topic with a LOT of variables, toss in owners intended usage for an even bigger mix!

butthead

DD is correct on all counts.

Not much to add here, good points by all said.

My last two tents had Easton aluminum poles, the same as what a good arrow is made out of. They are stronger than fiberglass poles.

The tents that have clips are not as strong as a tent made with sleeves. The 4 season tents have sleeves for the poles because the weight of the snow or wind on a mountain. The load is transferred along the sleeve not just in one spot with a clip. Clips are easy to pitch, sleeves take a bit more when in the wind.

Ok, I am learning. I want to swap out fiberglass poles for aluminum in this awning to save a lot of weight. What do you think?
Size: Adjustable from 13½x13½' to 15x15', 75-95 sq.ft.
Height: 6-6½' Stuff size: 25x5" Weight: 11 lb.

quote Grandma L: "Ok, I am learning. I want to swap out fiberglass poles for aluminum in this awning to save a lot of weight. What do you think?
Size: Adjustable from 13½x13½' to 15x15', 75-95 sq.ft.
Height: 6-6½' Stuff size: 25x5" Weight: 11 lb. "

If I were inclined to tote that kind of weight (which, outside canoe and food, I'm not), I'd probably go with a bug tent of some sort ... maybe something like THIS .

dd

(Keep in mind that I came to canoeing from a backpacking background, so I tend to travel on the lighter side. If I'm looking for shade, I'd just take a tarp.)

quote Grandma L: "Ok, I am learning. I want to swap out fiberglass poles for aluminum in this awning to save a lot of weight. What do you think?
Size: Adjustable from 13½x13½' to 15x15', 75-95 sq.ft.
Height: 6-6½' Stuff size: 25x5" Weight: 11 lb. "

I would not recommend it. Looks like 30 feet of pole needing .433 for replacement, $2 $3 a foot. Trim install inserts and shock-cord. To save a pound or so.

butthead

Although I always prefer aluminum since it's sturdier and lighter, if it's a good tent at a good price I've never let the fact that it had 'glass poles stop me. It's actually not too hard where I camp to find a decent willow sapling and use some Duct tape or Gorilla tape and make a "Field" repair.

I had a similar, Kelty, version of the tarp you were showing. Personally, I'd not worry about changing out the poles for aluminum. And, btw, the pole sleeves DO provide some abrasion protection to fiberglass poles in that tarp. I sold my tarp like that as I can go lighter and have more versatility with my CCS and a pole or two.

Deleted, off topic, sorry.

My question is to the strength and sturdiness of structure if I change out fiberglass to aluminum. the canopy has sleeves - I was hoping that would add some support to the poles. I was hoping for an engineer-brain out there who can address my structure question??? Oh, and I have the poles from old-dead tents.

This discussion is fun to follow even though I've moved to a hammock and do not use poles any more. Thanks!

quote Grandma L: "My question is to the strength and sturdiness of structure if I change out fiberglass to aluminum. the canopy has sleeves - I was hoping that would add some support to the poles. I was hoping for an engineer-brain out there who can address my structure question??? Oh, and I have the .
"

If you have "poles from old-dead tents", give them a try. May be a smaller diameter, thin in comparison, but nothing ventured------------
I use 8mm aluminum in a geodesic 4 person, seemed too light at the time but that's 6 camps ago including a snow bound 2 nites.

Certainly no engineer type here, but do tinker a lot. Have replaced several pole sets in tents. And promote a try it attitude, what have you got to loose, approach.

butthead

I agree with the sturdiness of the aluminum poles as compared to other options. I swapped these out on my ALPS solo tent for carbon fiber and shaved a pound off of the weight. I'm taking a chance though i.e. sacrificing strength for example in a wind storm versus the overall weight of the tent. I was able to drop it to 3 1/2 lbs. but it cost me about $65 to finish the swap-out of poles. Just my two cents.

quote Grandma L: "My question is to the strength and sturdiness of structure if I change out fiberglass to aluminum. the canopy has sleeves - I was hoping that would add some support to the poles. I was hoping for an engineer-brain out there who can address my structure question??? Oh, and I have the poles from old-dead tents.
"

Sorry, I'm no "Engineer" but aluminum would certainly work. I guess I wasn't clear with my thoughts, that the sleeves protect the glass poles and I wouldn't change poles unless I had a failure.

That's the opinion of a non-engineer who had one of those tarps (Kelty) for over 10 years until I sold it to another friend and she still uses it. It's got to be close to 20 years old? Glass poles are still intact.

If you look close, I found an old picture of it, it's the Kelty in the middle. This was about 15 years ago: