Boundary Waters Quetico Forum :: Fishing Forum :: Using bait casters/multiple rods
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A1t2o |
I will be replacing the line and the plan is to bring 3 rods setup for 1 light and 2 medium lines, maybe one heavier for Northern. Then I can have either 2 lures on to target different depths as we hit up the shore line, or a lure and a jig while keeping the lighter line on a slip bobber. What do I want to do here? A 12lb, 8lb and a 6lb line on the three, or do I want to make one of them braid or fluorocarbon? I could really use some advice here because I've always just gone with a 8-12lb mono line on a single rod before and focused purely on the bait/lure presentation. |
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lyontyl |
When I go up that is my rod for the big hitters. I use it for my lake trout, northern pike, and bass setup. It's what I put my larger lures on. It's also what I like to troll with. Casting rods, I think, are much easier to cast when it comes to accuracy. I think I typically put 8 lb fluorocarbon on my baitcaster setup. |
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FlambeauForest |
I use 30lb power pro for trolling and tossing top water plugs on mine. |
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mastertangler |
My general rule of thumb is light line is the domain of spinning and heavier line is better for Bait casters (lots of Pros would disagree but I speak to the rest of us). For example it is much easier to reel large lures in via a Bait caster as opposed to spinning gear. So, If I want to cast and retrieve say a Butchertail spinner in a 500 or 700 series I would find that using bait casting equipment much easier to use as the big spinner puts lots of resistance out there. It is also easier to reel in deep diving crank baits in on a bait caster as opposed to spinning. For light line and finesse I use spinning exclusively. When I start throwing or trolling bigger lures which pull hard I use conventional tackle (bait caster) exclusively. My advice would be to use it as your dedicated pike outfit. Put way heavier braid on than you think you really need. The reason being is light braid is easy to backlash and getting it untangled can sometimes be next to impossible. Heavier braid seldom backlashes if everything is right and it ties better. Think 40lb braid like green power pro. Double the line and use a 4 turn 1/2 Uni Knot to your wire leaders swivel. Don't let anyone talk you into light braid for pike fishing........Many knowledgable pike guys use 65 lb braid including yours truly (but I use very large lures for pike fishing). 40lb would probably load fairly well on most mid sized bait casters and could be used with minimum hassle and cast bigger spoons and swimbaits with confidence. |
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A1t2o |
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mastertangler |
If you can fish live bait then plan on it especially on this type of water. But back to your bait caster............what time of year are you going? On clear lakes for pike I like topwater if the water isn't warm. Once it warms up they go deep. Quetico Mike likes the Lucky 13 in Bullfrog color and has caught some awesome fish with it. When fishing topwater your presentation is less scrutinized and you can get away with quite a bit. Plus fish will come up from even deep water if you irritate them enough. But if it gets the least bit warm then pike will seek out the more comfortable depths. In such a case I like deep diving crank baits a bit on the large size with rainbow trout getting the nod color wise..........troll them quite fast in 25ft and that will trigger strikes from big Mr toothy. 40lb braid, what I had suggested earlier might need a nice long 60lb floro leader to be truly effective in the water you describe. Maybe you would be better off with some clear 14lb test mono on your bait caster and a thin titanium leader. Do not skimp on the leader purchase........expect to pay about $9 for a good one.........avoid really heavy wire which is fine for musky but not the generally feeble pike. I will not try to talk you out of using fluorocarbon but it can be quite fickle at times and you should practice with it before departing if you decide to use it. I have some fluorocarbon tips if you decide to work with the stuff. I like it but there is a bit of a learning curve. Deep long A These Deep long A's have caught some amazing fish for us over the years and they can be run very fast which is key particularly on clear water. You cannot paddle fast enough to take them away from pike and yes even slob walleye. When your rod is bent double and you think you are going way to fast you have it about right. The drag should slip rather easily so when you connect the line won't break. Get the larger size. Expect to get them down to 20 ft with 14lb test mono and close to 25ft with 12lb test mono. Be sure to use clear mono on clear lakes.........no colored lines and no florescent lines, capiche? Don't lose your rod overboard BTW ;-) Ahhhh........I'm droning on and on (again) when I should be out working.........the lure I linked to is actually a good walleye lure. The heavy duty long A model 26A is the pike lure deluxe. It is 6" long and modeled as a salt water lure but pike like it just fine. Both lure choices are quite good. |
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gsfisher13 |
quote FlambeauForest: " I find it's best for my blood pressure to troll or just cast heavier lures with bait casters. When I try to finesse it always ends in backlash/birds nest. .... every time. I'm not very patient or skilled at untangling the nests I've created. My experience is the same as FlambeauForest. My cheap baitcaster works much better trolling or casting heavier lures. Light lures require great finesse to not get backlash. I'm sure as I use it more I'll become better at it. In the meantime, my setup is for heavier use only. |
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lyontyl |
quote lyontyl: "You can do whatever you want but here is what I would do. Put it on your heavier rod. Typically I like to use casting reels and rods when I don't necessarily need to do much finessing or don't necessarily need a light setup with a lot of increased sensitivity. Correction, I put 12 lb floro on, not 8 lb |
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bassnet |
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A1t2o |
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mastertangler |
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