Boundary Waters Quetico Forum :: Gear Forum :: Outdoor canoe/yak rack...
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TEGordon |
Greatly appreciated! |
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TEGordon |
Thanks |
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Tebpac |
Here is a rack made by Mike McCrea who posts on Solotripping.Com and Paddling.net. I'd have to look for the directions for it if it's something you'd think of using but Mike would probably email them to you as well.......http://good-times.webshots.com/album/559784854ARoLfU |
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oldgentleman |
I took this pic while in the process of making a canoe rack. I cut the uprights off even with the high points of the upper canoes to help support the tarp that covers the whole thing. We keep 4 canoes on it year round. I tie them down but have never locked them. |
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BWPaddler |
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BWPaddler |
oldgent, yours looks good and solid too. For some reason I had been thinking I needed to get a 4x4 into the ground like a post... but I like both these options better so we can move it if we have to. The 2x12s must be plenty stable on the bottom? I think I could do with only two support beams since my kayaks are short and the canoes that would be down there are likely to be 15-17 feet tops. Is there any rule on that? Based on weight or length? Thanks you two!! |
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BWPaddler |
Thanks Koda, I'll try to see through your enviable menagerie and grasp the pattern. Is your base layer 4x4s on top of scrap lumber? And this is the rack where cross bars are stabilized with chains? |
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Zidgel |
I'm starting my eagle soon and I would like to use your son's design. Could you send the plans to me at benjaminlkozel@gmail.com? Thanks, Ben |
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Humdinger |
One thought is digging a hole in the ground, pushing in a PVC tube flush with the ground, and then inserting your wood or metal tree in it. You can remove the trees when you do lawn work, need entertaining room, or don't want to look at empty racks all winter. Watch for hornets nests if you build a sun roof! |
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onepaddleshort |
Sorry I missed the March request by TEGordan (I'll send him an email to see if the plans can still be of any help). But yeah, I'm sure I still have them on the external drive someplace. I'll need an email to send them to. |
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TEGordon |
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tnthekids |
quote onepaddleshort: "My son designed (they had a couple racks similar to these for years but he improved the design), drew plans, raised funds, and organized the building of 10 racks for a local Girl Scout camp as his Eagle Project a few years back. He has complete plans for these if it looks like it would work for you. They wanted racks they could move to the lake for summer and to a storage area for winter. Two adults can move these pretty easily. Hi. Do you by chance still have the plans for this rack? I am working with our local Girl Scout canoe base and this is exactly the type of rack we are looking to build. If you have it I would sure appreciate the plan specs and material list. |
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onepaddleshort |
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tnthekids |
quote onepaddleshort: "Yikes, Awesome!! Thanks for the quick reply. My email is tnthekids@gmail.com in case the email button doesn't work :) |
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onepaddleshort |
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Koda |
quote BWPaddler: "Bumping this up as I get closer to tackling it... why don't I see anything horizontally connecting the "poles"? are they 2-3 independent structures and the boats hold them together? Or will they fall over when all the boats are out of them? I must be missing something." BWP, are you referring to my rack? If so ... in the first picture, taken from the side, you can see a chain running diagonally up and to the left from the brown boat to the red boat. That's one of two chains forming an "X" between the uprights. Each one is attached to an eye bolt on both ends and tensioned with a turnbuckle. Very solid and stable. |
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BWPaddler |
Also - you chose pine on purpose? I was thinking cedar - like my deck/balcony/porch and the kids' playset... what will I regret if I do that? what will I need to change in design if I do it anyway? |
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Koda |
quote BWPaddler: "Thanks Koda, I'll try to see through your enviable menagerie and grasp the pattern. Is your base layer 4x4s on top of scrap lumber? And this is the rack where cross bars are stabilized with chains?" Sorry, BWP, I missed this the first time around. Yes, as I mentioned just a little bit ago, this is the chained rack. Each base is doubled 2x4s (I didn't use 4x4s because pine is stronger than cedar). The angled braces are attached with big lag screws. There are also metal "L" brackets (either 6" or 9" on a side) that support the verticals because the wood braces had a little too much "give." When the rack was outside it stood on bricks. Scrap lumber could have rotted and caused the rack to also rot. Hope this helps. Here's a picture that has a little more detail. |
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Koda |
quote BWPaddler: "Thanks Koda, think I didn't ask clearly though - I'm trying to see what connects the two vertical sets of racks... so I think I can glimpse something running from front to back along the top and bottom of your latest pic? There's a 2x4 running between the tops of the verticals and another one between the bottoms. All they do is maintain the distance between the racks. They're held on with small angle brackets. In case my other description wasn't clear: At the top and bottom of each vertical (a 4x4 made with by nailing together a pair of 2x4s) is an eye bolt, secured with a large washer and nut on the outside. On the inside (facing the other vertical) the chain wraps around the eye bolt, forming a loop that is secured to itself with a 1/4" bolt, washer and nut. The chains are connected diagonally through two turnbuckles (one for each set of chains), forming an "X". In the last picture you can see a piece of tan pipe insulation on one of the chains; it protects the boats from abrasion. In that picture you can also see the "L" brackets that support the verticals on the base, as well as how they abut the wood diagonal braces. Also - you chose pine on purpose? I was thinking cedar - like my deck/balcony/porch and the kids' playset... what will I regret if I do that? what will I need to change in design if I do it anyway?" You can use cedar, but it's a softer wood. With pine, the tension on the eye bolts somewhat deformed the holes they go through, and cedar will deform even more unless you use some kind of tubular insert. That may not be a problem functionally, though. If you're up to it, you could drill the holes on the same angle as the chains will pull, and then counterbore for the washers using a Forstner bit. Also, if you use wood angle brackets (necessary to keep the metal brackets from bending), there will be a greater risk of stripping out the lag screws so they should be longer, like 6" instead of the 4" screws I used. As long as you use a waterproofing stain (e.g., a deck stain) and mount the rack on a surface that drains well, there should be no problem with rot. My rack sat outside, disassembled, for five years and the only rot that developed was on two of the crosspieces, which touched the ground on their narrow edges. The boards weathered but were otherwise intact when I reassembled it. If you want more detail I can doctor some of the photos. The rack is in pieces in the loft of my shed, which makes the thing somewhat less than photogenic. Finally, if you want to name it, I recommend "Tauronga." That's a Maori word meaning "resting place for canoes" - and they know something about canoes. |
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HowardSprague |
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BWPaddler |
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Koda |
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BWPaddler |
Here's the landscape I have to work with. I'm a bit concerned about getting the boats out on the far side near neighbor, but if I put the shorter ones on that side, it should be OK: |
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Koda |
When I set it up at a different house I put 16-foot extenders on the top rails and hung a tarp over it, but it got pushed around in the wind. The second one shows it set up in the garage and gives a better idea of how it's built. From your sketch it looks like the boats will be out in the open, without shade. That's something to build into your plan from the beginning. |
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onepaddleshort |
quote Zidgel: "Hello onepaddleshort, Ben, I've looked, but this is an old thread and the laptop I had back then is no longer working. I do have some stuff stored on external drives but again, no luck so far. However, I'll ask my wife tonight if she knows where we might have any of those files and she is a wizard at finding things. If we were both wizards at finding things my powers would be a tiny spark you could only see on a moonless night and hers would be equal to throwing huge flaming balls of fire and starting forest fires. So, there's still hope... |
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onepaddleshort |
quote Zidgel: "Hello onepaddleshort, I found some of the design stuff. This should be enough for anybody to put one together. I'm going to just add them here so anyone coming across this thread in the future can have access to them. |
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BWPaddler |
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onepaddleshort |
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BWPaddler |
onepaddleshort (nice name!) - that does look like a handy design. I wonder if you could get away with a brace on the lower level rack going straight across instead of angled up to the top beam? Then maybe that "middle slot" on the bottom could be used as storage somehow (maybe not a whole 3rd boat, but I always have long thin things to store at the waterfront like 4x4s I use to "crowbar" the lift out deeper). Also wonder if it's possible to rig up a sunshade on top somehow... Thanks much for the examples. Gonna try to get the SR refinish project done by the end of next weekend (weather permitting) and then I can tackle this! onepaddleshort, if you can email the plans to my email (click on envelope) that would be great! I like the minimal contact with the ground - for mowing or trimming ease. |
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Koda |
quote BWPaddler: "Koda, your friend's design doesn't have anything but the notch-out to stabilize those cross bars? Think that's enough?" It's plenty 'nough. The notches aren't needed if you use through-bolts or good-size lag screws; all they do is fix the crosspieces in position and provide a back-up level of support (Steve is an engineer and tends to overbuild things). Note that there are two verticals at each end. That eliminates the need for doubled 2x4s, angle braces and chains, such as in my design. If I were building a rack I'd use his design. He used 2x6 lumber for the crosspieces and cut out "unnecessary strength" as he put it; 2x4s are plenty strong. |
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SunCatcher |
or rich depends how you look at it. SunCatcher |
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Koda |
quote SunCatcher: "Koda...I am druling over all those rides and you must be canoe poor. I am wealthy indeed. Most of those boats I don't have any more and a few weren't mine to begin with. Just six now, with some redundancies. |
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Knoozer |
Welcome to the board. This is one thing I keep busy at when I'm not geocaching. |
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onepaddleshort |
quote Knoozer: "OPS, Howdy Knoozer! I'm a long-time reader but I've never posted. Though- as you know- I do quite a lot of paddling I've never been to the BWCA or the Quetico. So I just lurk around wishing I'd had. Thought I could help out with this thread though so I made an account this afternoon. Oh man, third post and I'm already off-topic on a thread... |
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BWPaddler |
Will check email and thanks much! |
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onepaddleshort |
- that does look like a handy design. I wonder if you could get away with a brace on the lower level rack going straight across instead of angled up to the top beam? Then maybe that "middle slot" on the bottom could be used as storage somehow (maybe not a whole 3rd boat, but I always have long thin things to store at the waterfront like 4x4s I use to "crowbar" the lift out deeper). Also wonder if it's possible to rig up a sunshade on top somehow... The camp wanted a design that: A. Was light enough to move fairly easily as they would be moved several hundred yards twice a year. B. Could mow under without removing boats. C. Not too high so the girls could get boats on and off. They had two racks similar to these and they had no cross braces at all. But they were really rickety and could not be picked up and moved. With 17 foot canoes and the dimensions of the rack the middle of the canoes were pretty close to one another (because the narrow ends rest on the supports). In other words there isn't as much space between the bottom boats as you'd think. You would also likely need to adjust the length of the rack for shorter boats. The cross braces were added the way they were because they planned on picking up the racks to move them on a regular basis. I would think it would be fine to place a horizontal brace. It would not be as sturdy as the ones in the photo- but if you're not picking it up to move it all the time it would be fine. If you added a sunshade I don't think the rack would be stable enough in high winds without finding some way to stake it to the ground. His Eagle Packet is 25 pages long. I copied out just the stuff regarding building. You may be surprised at the amount of detail required. They don't give away Eagle Awards. Attaching photo of the crew on the day the project was completed. You can see where 17 foot boats end up resting with the dimensions on the plan. Sending email. |
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kennk |
Do you worry about sun damage to the canoe(s)? |
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Koda |
quote kennk: "Question for those storing composite canoes outside: Yes. I stored a Kevlar Prism outside, under an awning, for a few years and it faded even though it never got direct sunlight and was treated with an anti-UV compound at least twice a year. I will not store a boat with wood trim outside, so my other composites have always been stored inside. |