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BWCA Entry Point, Route, and Trip Report Blog

April 03 2025

Entry Point 47 - Baker Lake

Baker Lake entry point allows overnight paddle only. This entry point is supported by Tofte Ranger Station near the city of Tofte, MN. The distance from ranger station to entry point is 26 miles. Access is a boat landing at Baker Lake with a 10-rod portage into Peterson Lake to reach first campsite. This area was affected by blowdown in 1999.

Number of Permits per Day: 2
Elevation: 1497 feet
Latitude: 47.8452
Longitude: -90.8169
Lizz & Swamp Lakes - 47

A Much Needed Trip

by Arkansas Man
Trip Report

Entry Date: June 21, 2008
Entry Point: Little Indian Sioux River (north)
Exit Point: Little Indian Sioux River (north) (14)
Number of Days: 9
Group Size: 4

Trip Introduction:
Where to start??? What began as a friendly conversation at a Christmas party about trips to the BWCA, became a plan for myself and another guy Heath to do the Loop from Loon to Shell out of Entry Point 14, Little Indian Souix. Then what began as a tandem, became a trio when my wifes boss said he would like to go. And then became two tandems as a friend of his wanted to come along as well. It was a unique group, myself who has made several trips and three new guys. All of from varied backgrounds, two in education, myself a high school assistant principal, Heath, a high school chemistry and physics teacher, Charlie, my wifes boss who is an Audiologist and his friend Dave who is a Psychologist. We were all bound by a love of the outdoors, fishing and canoeing. A group who had never been together, until we picked up Heath on the drive north to complete the foursome. As time for the trip grew nearer it became evident that all of us were in need of a trip of this nature, each for their own reason! As the only member of the group with experience going to the BWCA before, I was in charge of the preparation. I already had the Permit for Entry Point 14 Little Indian Souix, my first time there. I made the reservation to stay at Jeanette Lake Campground the night before entry so we could wake early and be on the water soon after daylight. All was ready by the first of June except for the packing and leaving. However, on June 4, at age 51 I was diagnosed with Prostate Cancer, and now instead of choosing the menu for the week, I was choosing my method of treatment. We had found it early so Brachytherapy was chosen as the least invasive means of treating the cancer. A date was chosen for the implantation of the radioactive seeds July 1, two days after I return from the BWCA& The trip was still on, but now the reason for going had changed somewhat. It was no longer just a desire to go. It became a desire to prove I could still do it, and a need to be in the wilderness to prepare myself for what was coming, the battle I was about to face, to still my soul and allow peace to enter in! (I want to insert here that while Prostate Cancer is a very treatable disease, and the success rate is over 90 % for most treatments, and the one I had chosen has close to a 95% success rate with early detection. I had just overcome a scare with Thyroid Cancer a year and a half before when I had part of my thyroid and a huge mass removed from my throat and chest. It was just the shock of hearing I did now have cancer after not having it a year and a half earlier) The battle mentioned before comes from the after effects of the radioactive seeds that I am having implanted, no closeness to (approximately a foot) to my wife or any family member or even the family dog for up to ten months! I have the support of my wonderful wife, my family and many friends and the prayers of many people so I have no doubt that I will get through this thing. Now, I could go on this trip and relax, and show three new guys the Wilderness area I love so dear!

Day 2 of 3


Friday, June 20, 2008 & Saturday, June 21, 2008 Load the canoe, final packing, a quick hair cut by my wife, put everything in the truck and wait for the two doctors to show so we could leave to pick up the fourth member of our group 26 miles away. They show up at 6:15, load their stuff into the truck and I run into the house for a quick last moment with my wife before we head out in a driving rain storm which lasted about 5 minutes. We talk about what to expect as we drive the short trip to pick up Heath, the teacher. We meet him, he loads his stuff and says goodbye to his wife, and we have a group picture made before we head out. Everyone in the truck, a prayer for safe travel there and back, and a safe adventure while there and we head out, the time about 7:00 pm.

I drive for about seven hours, or until we reach Iowa, 500 miles total. Then Heath takes over for a hundred miles and then Charlie finishes the trip to Owatonna and Cabelas we get there an hour early so we have to wait for it to open. An hour in Cableas and we leave not too much money out of pocket. Charlie continues to drive through St. Paul where we stopped and met Adam, the main man for www.bwca.com, and his son Ben… Fantastic man and boy! He gives the guys shirts and me a hat, (which I needed badly) and gives us directions to get through the detour across the Mississippi River. We get past St Paul and stop to quickly grab a bite to eat and I try to sleep as Charlie continues to drive North to Ely. Once we reach Cloquet I see that diesel fuel at Wal-Mart is $4.39 a gallon so we stop to top off the tanks, and then I take over and finish the drive to Ely. Passing through Cloquet I am called by my friend Satchmoa who was wishing he was with us! I had already been called earlier in the day by Yellowbird who was entering at #14 that day! So I had already spoken to two good friends and met another in one day, yet more was to come, as I was supposed to meet the Spartans 1 & 2 at the Chocolate Moose at 4:30.

We reach Ely at 3:00pm and run out to Red Rock where I purchase a portable depth finder from Joe and talk to him a minute about trading in my Sr Quetico 18.5 in duralite for a used Kevlar SR Q 17. He tells me to email him and we will talk about it later as we are in a hurry to get out to Jeanette Lake, where the two doctors are supposed to cook us a special dinner that night! When we get back to town it is 4:15 so we go ahead and go to the Chocolate Moose where I visit with Lynda and Neil for a few minutes while the guys shop in Piragis. After we visit for a few minutes I leave Neil and Lynda to their pie and coffee and we head to Voyager North to pick up a canoe, get license and bait. We then begin the long drive out the Echo Trail to Jeanette Lake State Park to set up camp for the night while the doctors prepare a spicy pork dish for dinner. Then it is early to bed for an early start the next morning. Everyone was full of anticipation as well as a great dinner.

 



Day 1 of 3


Monday, June 23, 2008 I awake at 6:00 to a wet humid foggy morning. I prepare coffee and fish waiting for the others to wake. I immediately start catching walleye again! There is nothing like a good cup of coffee in the morning while sitting back and fishing at camp! Everything in camp is wet from the rain and the humidity, so it takes a while for things to dry out enough to pack. When everyone is up, I prepare a breakfast of Blueberry Pancakes with butter, honey, strawberry jam, and bacon! At 9:00 as we leave camp we have a group of Boy Scouts pass our camp headed for the same portage we are. We get there first, but since we are double portaging and they single they leave out on Slim Lake before us. The 173 rod was a unique one to say the least. I was the first across it and saw a fresh bear track from the night before… It was good sized, about the size of my hand! There are several trees down across the portage trail and I manage to scrape the back of my right leg on a stob sticking out on one as I cross it carrying the canoe and my other pack. There are also several tight turns when you are 6’5 and carrying an 18.5 foot long canoe. Slim Lake is a nice long fishy looking lake, but we are not fishing since we are traveling today! We see my friend Bill again and stop to talk to him for a few minutes before we paddle on. He tells me his stove has quit working, and since I have two plus an Esbit Stove, I give him one of mine which uses Coleman Fuel. He tells me he has plenty of fuel when I offer him some. I figured with his family along including two young girls it would be better for him to cook with a stove instead of a fire! After we say our goodbyes, we paddle on and catch up with the other canoe almost at the portage trail into Section 3 Pond. We portage quickly and paddle through Section 3 Pond and start the portage into South where we meet another group of two canoes headed the opposite way of us. Heath helps them carry some of their gear on the way across doing the right thing.

A quick paddle across South and we are at the 120 into Steep… Or should I say the steep portage into Steep! However, it is not as bad as I thought it might be and we are into Steep and filtering water as we paddle slowly looking around. It is a pretty little lake with only one campsite! Out destination for the day is Eugene, the next lake so we do the 35 rod portage into Eugene and split up to find an open site which was not a problem because they were all open! We choose the site by the narrows, a nice site with two maybe three tent pads, and a good view from on top of the hill. It was also breezy which helped with the bugs. It is 1:00 and decide to rest a while before we head to Fat to try for Lakers for dinner! So everyone heads to a hammock or a spot to rest until about 3:00 when we decide to go fish Fat. The portage trail was not very used, but not bad. It had a lot of wolf scat on it as did every trail we were on around Eugene! We put the canoe into Fat which has to be the clearest lake I have ever seen in the BWCA!! We paddle trying to find deeper water across the lake, the depth finder finally shows 30 ft and starts dropping. I drop a Krocodile Spoons down about 25 feet and see my first laker marked on the screen. We paddle a few more feet when I get a bite!! My first laker, about 2.5 pounds! Of course I have forgotten a stringer so I use a piece of rope I have in the canoe to tie it out with. We fish another 20 minutes and Heath catches one about 2 pounds. We have enough for dinner so we stop fishing and head back to camp where we fillet the Lakers and put them in foil with onions, butter, and Garlic to cook over the campfire. On the stove I prepare stovetop stuffing to go with them! It was great! After dinner we clean up the dishes and ourselves and then just sit around and talk for a while. No one wanted to go fishing, it seemed our emphasis on fishing was diminishing somewhat, and our need for relaxing taking over… Bedtime was 9:00 pm again…

An interesting note, during our afternoon rest, a turtle came into our camp and started digging a hole for laying her eggs in the dirt on top of the hill. In the morning there was no sign she had ever been there… nature at its best!

 



Day 6 of 3


Wednesday, July 12, 2023 We woke up fairly early (before 7), and made some breakfast (oatmeal). I had some coffee while we slowly made our way out on the lake. We tried fishing by the rock piles on the south side of the lake in an effort to find a walleye or two. We were only able to find smallmouth, but a fair amount of them. The kids enjoyed playing in the water with their hands as we moved around (they can't do that in a fishing boat!). The youngest needed a late morning/early afternoon nap, so the oldest and mom went for a paddle. When they got back and the younger one woke up, we decided to go for another journey and check out the campsite nearby. The kids relayed all the similarities and differences between the two sites. When we came back, we spent some time at the site just relaxing (see picture), cutting wood, and eating dinner. We had a fire again, hung out for a bit until the kids were ready for bed. Mom and Dad also went to bed, as we all were tired by that point. We heard the loons overnight again, they were more active than I had ever heard. MJ (5), woke up in the middle of the night to pee, so he got to see the absolutely stunning BWCA sky. More stars than the planetarium!

 



Day 12 of 3


Thursday, June 26, 2008 Everyone wanted to see sunrise this morning so I woke everyone up at 4:45 am and we all got some good pictures before we had a breakfast of blueberry pancakes with butter, honey, and strawberry jam. We pack camp up and are ready to leave for Oyster by 8:00. We paddle to the portage to green and cross it noticing that there are 3 piles of fresh wolf scat on the trail that morning… and it had to be wolf because we had been up since daylight and we were the first people over the portage. Yet we had heard no howling during the night, only loons… We pass uneventfully through Green and Rocky, stopping on Rocky to see if we can find the picto’s that are supposed to be there, but we never found them.

Once on Oyster we find the first site with water access on both sides is taken by the Boy Scouts we have been following, so we head to the next site on the peninsula. It is taken but they are leaving, so we wait until they leave and take the spot! It is a very nice spot with plenty of tent pads and trees to hang hammocks. However, it is easy to see that the two young boys in the group before us had plenty of free time and a hatchet to do damage with. Every tree in camp almost had marks on them, and green limbs were cut down and piled back in the woods! We set up camp and have lunch, peanut butter and honey sandwiches on flatbread. And for some reason everyone gets sleepy and heads to a hammock or tent for the next two hours… except for Heath who rested a little, he was fishing from shore. The fishing however was not very good from camp. We decide to have an early dinner so we could fish if we wanted to. So I prepared Barilla 3 cheese tortelloni with bertolli pasta sauce in a pouch with grilled garlic parmesan pitas. It too was a hit with everyone! Heath and I took the canoe out after dinner and managed to catch few smallies on top water although there was tons of baitfish or fish fry in the water. I managed to catch a nice northern who did not bite me off for a change. When we get back to camp at 8:30 the other guys are in bed and asleep so we clean up and get ready for bed as well.

 



Day 15 of 3


Wednesday, June 25, 2008 I awake early the next morning about 4:40 to make coffee and take some pictures of the sunrise and to do a little fishing. After fishing for a while and not doing any good I went to the recliners to listen to the sounds of the morning and enjoy my 2nd cup of coffee. Later when everyone is awake I prepare a breakfast of biscuits and gravy with bacon… It was delicious. During this day we just fish from shore, relax in hammocks, or take out a canoe to fish. Heath manages to catch a nice northern from camp! Dinner that night was hamburger helper cheesy Quesadilla made with dehydrated hamburger meat, and wrapped in taco shells. After dinner we prepare to move the next day to Oyster.

An interesting note, on this trip I wore my wedding ring which I usually do not do for fear of losing it. I guess I had lost enough weight on this trip that when I was rinsing my hands off near shore the ring slipped off and fell into the water. Luckily I was able to see it resting between two rocks about a foot deep and was able to get it back!

 



Day 17 of 3


Thursday, June 26, 2008 Everyone wanted to see sunrise this morning so I woke everyone up at 4:45 am and we all got some good pictures before we had a breakfast of blueberry pancakes with butter, honey, and strawberry jam. We pack camp up and are ready to leave for Oyster by 8:00. We paddle to the portage to green and cross it noticing that there are 3 piles of fresh wolf scat on the trail that morning… and it had to be wolf because we had been up since daylight and we were the first people over the portage. Yet we had heard no howling during the night, only loons… We pass uneventfully through Green and Rocky, stopping on Rocky to see if we can find the picto’s that are supposed to be there, but we never found them.

Once on Oyster we find the first site with water access on both sides is taken by the Boy Scouts we have been following, so we head to the next site on the peninsula. It is taken but they are leaving, so we wait until they leave and take the spot! It is a very nice spot with plenty of tent pads and trees to hang hammocks. However, it is easy to see that the two young boys in the group before us had plenty of free time and a hatchet to do damage with. Every tree in camp almost had marks on them, and green limbs were cut down and piled back in the woods! We set up camp and have lunch, peanut butter and honey sandwiches on flatbread. And for some reason everyone gets sleepy and heads to a hammock or tent for the next two hours… except for Heath who rested a little, he was fishing from shore. The fishing however was not very good from camp. We decide to have an early dinner so we could fish if we wanted to. So I prepared Barilla 3 cheese tortelloni with bertolli pasta sauce in a pouch with grilled garlic parmesan pitas. It too was a hit with everyone! Heath and I took the canoe out after dinner and managed to catch few smallies on top water although there was tons of baitfish or fish fry in the water. I managed to catch a nice northern who did not bite me off for a change. When we get back to camp at 8:30 the other guys are in bed and asleep so we clean up and get ready for bed as well.

 



Day 18 of 3


Summary: A 5-day loop from Baker up the Temperance lakes to Cherokee, and back through Sawbill and Smoke lakes back to Baker. A fairly difficult trip.



Day 0: We drove up from Stillwater in the morning and camped at one of the 5 walk-in campsites at Baker Lake, and it was nice.




Day 1 (Baker to S. Temperance) - A beautiful day, we decided to paddle all the way to South Temperance the first day which was a great paddle with easy portages except for the last one. We picked the campsite on top of a huge rock that was close to the middle of the lake. Tried fishing some but no luck




Day 2 (Rest) - In the night, we encountered the worst storm of the entire season. While we were there 19 people had to be rescued from the BWCA. We had about 50mph straightline winds, and I'm still surprised that the huge tent we had stood up to it. We slept in and took a rest day because of the intense winds. Amazingly beautiful sunset.





Day 3 (S. Temperance to Cherokee) - We left as early as we could to beat the heat, but it was no good. The lengthy, hilly portages were challenging and by the last portage we were pretty beat. We overpacked and single portaged which led us to speedier exhaustion. Still amazing weather. North Temperance was a beaut- I wish we had stayed there instead of South. We took the southeasterly facing campsite on Cherokee on the southeastern skinny island. Neat little site.



Day 4 (Cherokee to Sawbill) - Left a little later in the day but it was ok. We took our time going down the river letting out of the southwest part of Cherokee and it was a great area. BEWARE: The area between Ada and Skoop Lakes appears to be floatable, but a dam built recently has made the portion impossible to float. Be prepared for a long portage through muck and water. A guy that we saw there said he had been going to the BWCA for 40 years at least once per year and it was the worst portage he had ever seen. By the time we got to Sawbill it was pretty hot. We paddled all the way down to the site next to the portage onto Smoke.



Day 5 (Sawbill to Baker) - Cooler, cloudier weather for the first time on the trip. We were pretty hungry (I underpacked food a little and I felt really bad) and we were taunting each other with vivid descriptions of the burgers we were going to eat ASAP after getting out. We paddled back to Baker and returned our gear to Sawtooth outfitters.


Overall great route.

 



Day 19 of 3


Saturday, June 28, 2008 My watch alarm goes off at 4:00… sleeping bag is stuffed into its bag, sleeping pad is rolled and put into carrying bag. Everything else is placed where it is easy to get to and we exit the tent and start packing the Duluth pack. The wet tent is the last thing to go on top with the wet tarp. A quick cold breakfast of granola bars and drink mixes and cleaning camp and we are ready to start paddling. It is 5:00 am when start paddling, it is 5:16 when we reach the 220 rod portage into Lower Pauness. We see the Boy Scouts we have been following camped at the site near the portage and know that we will beat them out today! Along the portage trail I have a Grouse jump out and run in front of me for about 10 yards, before it runs back into the woods. While we had heard them at almost every campsite this was the first I had seen.

We start paddling on Lower Pauness to the 8 rod portage at 6:15. We do the short 8 rod up and over portage into Upper Pauness and then enter the Little Indian Souix River which we notice is running stronger that when we entered a week before. We paddle to the 60 rod portage where we notice the bugs were bad due to the rain. The waterfall we had seen the week before was running stronger than when we first saw it. It was after we left the 60 rod portage that we saw our first people of the day on the water. As we paddled from that portage we thought about the week we had had. We talked about how it had started hard, ended easy as everyone got used to the travel. We discussed how we might do something different or how some things could have been better. Overall there was a tone of sadness to the discussion that the trip was over and now it was going back to the world of work, cell phones and people. Although a hot shower and a good hot meal that I had not cooked had its appeal! By 8:30 we are at the entrance portage, I carry my normal load to the top, and start getting the truck ready by emptying out the front and putting the Yakima racks back on. Total distance traveled on this trip was 44.10 miles with approximately 36 of it being paddling and almost 8 miles of portages multiplied by 3 for double portaging makes out to be almost 24 miles of portaging. A good trip!!

By 9:00 we are headed to Voyager North, by10:45 we are showered and have shopped and headed to DQ for a meal. We do a little more shopping for trinkets for our wives and kids, mainly t-shirts before we head south to Arkansas.

We stop at Owatonna at the steak house for a good meal and then finish the drive. We drop off Heath to his wife and kids at 5:30 Sunday morning and I get home at 6:15 to a cup of good Coffee and my lovely wife. Dave and Charlie pack up their gear and drive off for the last hour of their drive home.

It is good to be home! I am rested and now ready to face that which is coming! I am filled with the peace that comes from being in the wilderness… the BWCA!

 



Day 20 of 3


Sunday, June 29, 2008 CONCLUSIONS:

Good Things…

1. This is a great loop to do! 2. All of the gear worked well! 3. Only brought back 2 pounds of food so planning was good. 4. It was good to have an extra stove to help out a friend in need. 5. Saw lots of animal signs. 6. Scenery was fantastic. 7. Thermacell worked well when needed. 8.  Great Food on the trip.

Bad Things: 1. Lots of dead pine trees. 2. Lots of dead beetles in the water. 3. Signs of chopping at campsites. 4.  It having to end so soon!

Final Thoughts… This trip as mentioned before was needed by everyone that went, and at the end of it each of us had gotten what we needed out of it… some peace, some space, and some just away from it all!

I have since had my treatment for Prostate Cancer. It was Brachytherapy which involves the implantation of radioactive seeds into my prostate. There were 160 seeds placed in a procedure done on July 1, two days after my return from the BWCA. That is one reason this trip report has taken so long. I have not been able to sit at the computer for any long period of time and type or import pictures. I am recovering well! The main downside to my procedure is that I cannot sleep within a foot of my wife for the next 10 months until the radiation is gone. I cannot hold babies, or be near pregnant women. My dog cannot sit in my lap! But all it all I am grateful that my wife had me go tot the doctor and get checked, and that we found it early and I was able to do this type of treatment! I am blessed with a great wife, great kids, great friends, and most importantly… A Great God that answers prayers and watches over me!

PS: there are more pictures of our trip and more to be added later in my photo albums on this site!

 


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