We woke up at 3:30AM excited about our first Boundary Waters trip as a family. We wanted to get as early a start as possible so that we could have a full day of travel and paddling especially, because we wanted to try to make it to Insula in one day if we could. We had packed up and loaded everything the night before so we would just have to get up, eat and go in the morning. It was around a four hour drive up to Ely from our home in Wisconsin so we wanted to get to the Ranger Station as soon as it opened. We got off to a little bit of a slow start as expected so we didn’t leave home until like 4:30AM. We got to the ranger station between 9 and 10 and we were at the entry point paddling out around 11. My brother and I were worried because of our late start and slower travel time due to the greenhorns in our family but we tried to be patient as we traveled towards Insula. The portages were actually fairly smooth and quick for the most part even with our group size. We didn’t want to stop and eat because we wanted to get to Insula and get a campsite as soon as possible. After a while we knew we weren’t going to get there fast enough and the wind was picking up so we linked up our 3 canoes and took a break and ate some snacks and filled up on water as we let the wind blow us across Hudson. We had a couple different campsites in mind that we wanted but as it was like 3 to 4 o clock when we reached Insula we weren’t too optimistic. Once we reached Insula the wind had really started to pick up from the southwest. My sister was in my canoe and we got out the tent fly and sailed for a while which was pretty entertaining and was faster than paddling. We got turned around several times as we made our way to the North most part of Insula but eventually we made it there and thankfully we got the campsite we wanted as it was just being vacated as we got there at just after 5 which was really strange but we were very thankful! So exhausted from our long day and lack of food we set up camp and relaxed and ate the rest of our lunch at like 5:30ish. My brother and I were itching to wet our lines so we headed out to explore and fish a bit as the rest of our family took naps or relaxed. We caught a few smallmouths and northerns in an hour or so of fishing. We’ve generally taken trips in June or early July so have usually found lots of success fishing bays and shoreline either casting rapalas or jigging but figured this wouldn’t be the case in August because all the fish are deeper on reefs and humps. So after getting a layout of the surrounding area and catching some fish we headed back to camp to collect firewood, tidy up camp, look for a bear bag tree, and that kind of stuff while supper was cooking. We ate supper then my brother and I headed out for an evening of fishing. We weren’t exactly sure what to try so we decided we’d troll some blue rapalas around islands and through narrow spots because that’s normally what we’ve done a lot at night. We caught 7 walleyes in like two hours so it was pretty slow but we figured trolling probably wasn’t an ideal way to fish in August because they don’t come up very shallow even to feed. We were happy to just be in the BW though so we weren’t complaining and we caught some decent walleyes. We headed back to camp and hung out as a family for a while and then went to bed around 11:30. Lakes traveled: Lake One, Two, Three, and Four, Hudson, and Insula.   

Today was a fishing and rest day so we woke up early in the morning to head out on the lake and catch some fish. My dad wanted to go as well so I went with him and my brother went solo. My brother and I have never been particularly effective at morning fishing. I think my brother went back in a bay and my dad and I decided to jig the area from a point out towards Williamson Island. We jigged the drop off, boulder fields, deeper holes. We fished everywhere from 10 feet down to about 30 feet down with no luck whatsoever. So I don’t know what else I could have done but I guess all you can do is try and experiment in different areas. If anyone has any advice about morning fishing in August I’d love to hear it! My brother caught a few bass but didn’t have much luck either. So we headed back and the girls had breakfast almost ready which was really nice for a change! So we ate breakfast of pancake/muffins and then everyone busied themselves with camp chores while I cast out two slip bobbers. It wasn’t fantastic but I was able to catch several small bass in an hour. We had seen a really good cliff jumping spot while passing through Insula the previous day so we decided to make a day trip as a family there and do some swimming and exploring. The girls and my dad were taking a while so me and Brad rigged some Lindy rigs and decided to some trolling and see if we couldn’t find some structure to fish later. It was mid-day so we weren’t really expecting to find fish but find them we did on a reef in about 20 feet of water out towards an island. So we trolled back and forth for about an hour catching 7 walleyes and 4 smallmouths. The rest of our family came by so we were supposed to head out but Brad and I didn’t want to leave but we didn’t want to ditch the family. So we relunctantly left while catching fish. we had lunch when we go to the island then went cliff jumping on the 20ft tall cliff which was super fun and we took lots of cool pictures and video. Then Brad and I went right back to fishing catching several more walleyes and smallmouth as we explored the lake more. We also caught a couple np s as well unfortunately. Then we went back to camp and everyone was going to relax for a bit. I still had a leech on my jig so I propped my pole up against a rock bank with the jig in about 4 inches of water. Then I went to read my Bible for a while. I was just dosing off to sleep when I heard rocks splashing into the water. I look and I see my dad chasing my pole along the rock face out towards the point. Evidently a bass had swam into the shallows and bit onto my jig and tried to swim off and luckily my dad was over there at the time. It was one of the funniest things I’ve seen in my life though as my dad slipped on the rocks and fell over like 3 times trying to catch and grab my pole. It was pretty entertaining. I was amazed that a bass would come in that shallow. We made some supper of rice and fish and then went out fishing for the evening to see if we could find a sunken island or ridge where the walleyes were coming up to feed. We didn’t find the hot spot but caught several decent walleyes in a couple hours work. Then we headed back to camp had some hot chocolate and tea and talked about life and a lot of other stuff as a family. It was a very enjoyable evening with the family.  

Its 4:00 am, I’m up before the alarm which I set for 4:10. Coffee on, I load the rest of my clothes in the truck and I come in the house and my wife comes into the kitchen to tell me good bye and be careful. Dakota, our Chocolate Lab, also gets up to say good bye. But I can tell he isn’t interested in coming with me. I head out of the driveway at 4:27am, stop to fill up gas; No the price hasn't gone down overnight. I should have filled up last night to save time. I head east on Hwy 2 and stop in Grand Rapids for a mug of coffee and then keep going towards Ely on Hwy 169. Its easy going, canoe is securely tied down to the rack in the bed of the truck, no wind, nor traffic to contend with. I take my time, and hit Ely around 7:45.

Most places are still closed, no tourists that I can see, just a few people going to work. I stop in at the Coffee House for one more cup of coffee; "I’ll pay the price later, I’ve consumed way too much for one day." While grabbing the coffee, I see a couple of computers and think of logging on and checking my email, but decide I want to be on the water by 9:00, and besides, I’m on VACATION. I head out the Fernberg road towards Lake One and Entry Pt. #30.

I do the self registration, which is required between Oct 1 and May 1, then un-strap the canoe and take a pack down to the water. There is ¼” of ice along the shoreline. It’s 25 F. "What am I doing? No one else is in the parking lot. Am I crazy?"

I’m ready to head out but I can’t remember where I put my reading glasses. I want to do some reading and writing, so they will help me when I’m trying to do this by headlamp in the evenings. “Where did I put them”? I look in my fanny pack – NO Must have left them in the truck. So I walk back to get them. NO, but I do find my sun glasses. Back to the canoe! Yup, they are in the Duluth Pack. Oh well, 10 minutes wasted but its only 9:00. Time to get going. I plow thru about 30 yards of ice to get to the open water. Not too bad.

I decide to head thru Confusion Lake. A few short portages and it’s a pretty straight shot into Lake One. They must call it Confusion Lake because it’s easy to get turned around if you aren’t paying attention. I take a look at my compass and map. No problems. Actually this Entry Pt is on the Kawashi River, so my first portage is actually into Confusion Lake. (A finer thing on the map, from reading it more closely). The four portages I do quickly, they are from 17 – 40 rods, all pretty easy. Just a wee stretch of the legs. ?

I had planned on taking only 1 pack, but this being so late in the season; I decided to take extra clothes. Just in case it gets cold or the weather forecast changes quickly. Before pushing out, I had distributed my gear between the two packs so there were a little more evenly matched for weight. Both ended up being pretty light. I guess I finally packed for a trip where I don’t completely go crazy and take too much food. I’m not on any kind of timetable, so I will double portage and relax. I can allow my mind to wander and my body to unwind. As I enter into Lake Three, I continue to paddle along, thinking about work, the office, staff and things still sitting on my desk. I’m thankful to have good staff so I can get away. (Now I wish I could clear my mind of work). I have been trying since the beginning of October to get up here, but with work commitments, the World Handball Tournament and especially the bad weather, I didn’t think I would make it. On Monday when I looked at the forecast, I said to myself; it’s this weekend or never. I even sent out a couple of invitations to friends, to see if they may want to go. Both were busy, but I really was looking forward to a Solo trip anyway, so it worked out. As I paddle along I think of the wolf I saw this morning, right on the edge of the highway about 10 miles out of Ely. He was having breakfast on a deer carcass, but as I went by he came up out of the ditch and I watched him in my rearview mirror. He seemed to be following my truck, so I slowed down thinking I could maybe get a picture of him. As I slowed down, he decided to high-tail it into the woods. Guess he was camera shy. As I approached the Lake 4 area, I could feel that my shoulders aren’t in paddling shape, a little fatigue was beginning to set in. Very different exercise than what I normally do. I took out my GPS, to see how fast, or slow, I was progressing, and without too much effort, it registered 3 mph. Not too bad.

As I paddle down across the lake, I remember a campsite on the southern portion of the lake, which is close to the Pow Wow Trail. Looking at the map, I see its location and decide that might be a great place to camp. It would also allow me close access to Horseshoe Lake and the Wilder Lakes. Staying at this campsite will also afford me the opportunity if I choose, to take a hike along the trail or just continue paddling and fishing. One thing I know, every campsite will be open because there were no other cars in the parking lot and not another soul around. With that thought, “I must be careful, and on take any chances.”

I get to the campsite around 1:00; it’s less than 4 hours until sundown. It takes no time to set up the tent, and get my sleeping pad and bag arranged in the tent. I need to eat, but I’m still not hungry. I force myself to eat some noodles and drink some tea. It seems like whenever I go solo either on a canoe trip of backpacking I have no appetite. I don’t know if it’s from excitement of the trip, nervousness, fear, or just what. I finally force myself to eat and drink. As I sit around camp, I suddenly have visitors. I am greeted by a couple of Camp Robbers. (Grey Jays) They are looking for a handout. It doesn’t look like they are starving as they are both plump and look pretty hearty.

After finishing my little lunch, I hunt for some firewood, cut and split it so I’m ready for a nice campfire. I’m feeling much better, so I think I’ll get some dinner going. Beef Stew for tonight. This is very tasty, but a little too salty.

4:30pm, the sun has set, so I decide to start a fire (a little early). I probably won’t stay up real late tonight. Next thing I know its 6:00pm, very dark, the fire still doesn’t throw off much heat. Glad I brought my extra coat. Stars are getting bright, If I stay up until 7:00 I may be lucky, but I really like this. Only problem though, if I go to be too early, I will be bright eyed and ready to go by 4 or 5am, a little early for this time of year. This is a tough time to travel with only about 8 ½ hours of daylight. But I can feel myself relaxing and enjoying being out here. 8:00 think I will head to bed and read a bit. Looking forward to having another good day tomorrow.

Friday, November 6th, 2009

I get up at 7:00 this morning after lying in my tent for about ½ hour waiting for it to get flight. I’ve been listening to the wind blowing thru the trees. The way it sounds I will be staying put today. No way will I try to fight high waves with the water being close to 40 degrees. Much different than in the summer. But now, if you capsize, you had better be close to shore because there won’t be much time to react. I finally got up and to my amazement there is only ripples on the water. I look out onto the main part of the lake, just to make sure, looks like I will travel today. The wind was playing tricks as it blew through the pine trees. It sounded almost like gale force winds. Trees can really magnify the sound of the wind at times.

Breakfast is oatmeal and coffee, and I putter around camp taking my time to break camp but finally get ready to head out. Across the channel to the 20 rod portage into Horseshoe Lake. Then into Harbor and finally to North Wilder Lake. The stream out of North Wilder is coated with ice clear across. I figure I could chop my way thru, but then again maybe I’ll get to the end and it won’t be so easy. I decide to reevaluate my route and decide to get to Hudson & Insula Lakes. I’m paddling along just enjoying being outside. I decide I’d like to do some fishing so I make the decision to turn around and go back to Lake 3, then head north, fishing as I go and just end up wherever.

Fishing isn’t too bad, as I have some luck in catching a few nice walleyes and northern. Everything is fairly deep that I catch. Probably in the range of 20-30 feet deep is my best guess. I gradually work my way into Lake 4, stopping to take pictures and do some exploring. I stop at a nice campsite for lunch of hot tea, pepper jack cheese, crackers and salami. “A great lunch.” With 10 portages behind me I’m tired so I find a nice campsite at the southeast end of Bridge Lake. Its late afternoon as I set up. Plenty of wood to burn, and it’s been a good day. Very warm for this time of year. Clear skies and not a person in site. I’m completely at peace with myself and nature.             

The wind begins to pick up at dark this evening and as I sit by the fire I contemplate on this trip. It’s the latest in the year I have ever done a canoe trip. Usually by now we could have snow on the ground, frozen lakes or just horrendous weather. Fishing has been pretty good, and I have completed just about everything I have wanted to do. So, as I gaze into the fire I decide that in the morning I will paddle out. I’m not going to chance the weather and even though I’ve only been out on the water two days (three counting tomorrow), my batteries are recharging and I’m beginning to feel much better.

I figure tomorrow I’ll have about 8 portages, most of them being fairly short, but the second one will be 170 rods. With that thought I hit the sack. Boy, my sleeping bag feels good tonight. It is very warm out this evening; I’ll sleep like a baby I’m sure.

Saturday, November 7th, 2009

I’m up early again, around 7:00 and I boil water for my coffee & oatmeal while I break camp. This morning the temperature is above freezing. Can this be November? I decide to fish my way down Bridge Lake, trolling and casting into every possible spot that I think a fish maybe hiding.

Water level is really down, probably a good two feet or so; there is a lot of rocks showing that you can see have been underwater. Plus the shoreline shows the high water mark on the rocks. I have a good travel day ahead of myself, and could follow Lake Two to the dam but with the low water I decide to go out the way I came in; through Confusion Lake. This means 8 portages...

Coming out of Bridge Lake, my second portage of the day, I have 170 rods to look forward to. There are 4 trees blown down along the portage with many ups and downs. Good elevation changes. As I finish my second carry, I realize I’m sweating pretty good, and my heart rate has climbed. This was a tougher portage, and I can’t remember too many portages like this one. Obviously there are; and I’ve done many, but it’s been awhile since I’ve done one with so much elevation changes. (I love it)

Rifle Lake is a nice quiet lake with one campsite on it. I doubt it’s gets much use. I complete the 65 rod portage into Lake Two and find a mud flat at the end of the portage, and I will need to contend with that. Water level sure is down. This little bay is completely exposed, and with the low water level, I have to pick myself around the rocks to find a place I can launch the canoe. For a fleeting moment I think about setting the canoe down and trying to push thru this stench but I wisely think better of it. No sense in making some ridiculous decision and then regret it. By the time I finish, I’m ready for lunch and a break.

I find a campsite to have lunch and I think about my trip. This has been a good one, though short, I’ve done everything I wanted to do. As I get back into the canoe and begin paddling I see a young loon fishing by himself. I’m somewhat surprised that he hasn’t begun his journey south yet. The parents always leave earlier but this is amazingly late for loons to be hanging around the northern part of Minnesota. Maybe he was born a little later this past spring and needs to get his strength before the long flight.

I’m piddling around, and I notice its 1:00 already. I still have a good distance to go with 5 portages ahead of me. Time to make some tracks. As I complete my trip where I left three days ago, its after 4:00. Time sure passes quickly when you’re having fun. It’s beginning to get dark as I pull in, and I load the canoe onto the truck, put the packs in and take off for Ely and then home.

Summarizing my 3 day trip, I did 24 portages and traveled about 30 miles. I can honestly say that I’m tired. Shoulders got a good workout from all of the paddling, and my legs got a little workout from the portages. I feel satisfied, and ready to put the canoe away for the winter. Without this last minute trip, I think I would have been stewing about it for months to come. Now I can reflect, and begin thinking about where to go next year. Woodland Caribou is definitely on the list, and along with a trip down the Albany River. Maybe an early May trip for fishing opener to Quetico for some Lake Trout.

We woke up packed up camp and then relunctantly headed out the last couple lakes. It was a very fun trip but way too short for my brother and my liking. It was an excellent way to spend some quality time with the family though out in the beautiful wilderness that God created for us. We will definitely be doing it again this summer! I love the BWCA I'm hooked for life.