I was a good 15 minutes late picking up Shady this morning. Rather than heading straight for the Sawbill Trail we had a planned stop in Ely to pick up my paddles (accidentally left behind on my earlier June trip-but a convenient excuse for another trip!). I am ever thankful for the short drive from the TC. I wouldn’t hesitate to take a 2-3 day trip if that’s all time allowed. Voyageur North Outfitters provided the paddles, a permit and a pound of leeches. After winding down Highway 1 and a few forest roads we were at our entry point 37, Kawishiwi Lake and it still wasn’t much after noon.

Shady was familiar with the area we were paddling and we were aiming for a campsite on Lake Polly Wednesday night. Dodging storms we made our way across Kawishiwi Lake and my trusty ultra light 17’ Alumacraft made quick work of the beaver dams between Kawishiwi and Square lakes. Low water extended the first of two portages between Square and Kawasachong, but still they were short, easy, dry trails. We made it across Kawasachong just as the thunder started. Although we got wet the portages to and from Townline were uneventful. We arrived on Polly late afternoon 4-5ish and although our first choice campsite was taken we found shelter on a small site on the large north facing eastern peninsula (third campsite on the right as you head north). While small the campsite did have a couple nice tent pads and a decent tree to hang the food pack. I picked up a small waldo and smallie in a half-hearted fishing attempt from shore. We dried out and had a dinner of Kielbasa, beans and rice, before crashing early.

We had only a short paddle to the first of 3 portages along the Kawishiwi River leading to Koma Lake. Again all of the portages were in good condition, with rare muddy spots. With the rains to come conditions certainly may have deteriorated. On the third portage, some 120 rods we encountered a momma Merganser and her 7 chicks. The chicks scurried along and tumbled down the root stairs of the portage which was quite amusing! Momma flew off when she saw us but eventually everyone reunited on the water.

Thursday was another day of dodging rain. We paused to fish briefly below the falls on Malberg and hooked up with a couple bronze backs but we needed to keep moving. Our goal for this evening was to setup base camp on the Kawishiwi River northwest of Malberg and day trip/fish from there. We made our way through the Malberg narrows and encountered a few anglers who reported little fishing success. In preparation for a strong-ish wind from the NW we stopped for a sandwich lunch on the southern point campsite of the west arm of Malberg. We made easy work of the Malberg wind and short portage into the river. The skies parted and we paddled downstream to the island in the middle of the Kawishiwi River hoping to find vacancy. And we did.

We setup camp on the northern island site and it proved to be a great home for the next 4 nights. The site featured three large tent pads, a shore-edge rock outcropping perfect for fishing or pumping water and views of the western sky.

Between squalls we got a chance to get out fishing. Shady hooked up within seconds (literally) of commencing our troll. A nice eater waldo. We picked up another smalleye trolling the bay but our real goal for the evening was a cache of firewood. We struck the firewood jackpot and discovered enough dry cedar wood for a little cooking and 4 nights of campfires. Back at camp the cook whipped up a delicious chicken, stuffing and mashed potato dinner. I’m stealing this recipe! The rains held off the rest of the night and we had a beautiful cool night for a campfire. We were anxious to get out on the water and really pound the fish the next morning.

We were looking to avoid the bad luck of this Friday the 13th. The am skies were less threatening and after some pancakes we hit the water in search of waldos. We located fish by throwing diving crankbaits, anchored and then broke out the leeches and slip bobbers. Luck was with us as we caught about a dozen small walleye (all 14-18”) and kept a few for dinner. We caught just as many smallies and boated a half dozen pike to boot. We also had front row seats as an eagle swooped in to grab some dinner. It was a pretty amazing sight! This particular bald seemed to be monitoring our fishing success-waiting for a released fish to go belly up.

By early afternoon the skies were looking less friendly though and we raced back to camp-just in time as it would turn out. I got the fish cleaned and Shady readied a fire to cook our foil lemon pepper walleye. We huddled under the tarp with our tasty dinner and endured about 4 hours of heavy rain. The weather gave us plenty of time to get further acquainted. As luck (word of the day) would have it (not!) the rain seemed to wake the mosquitoes. From here on out they were fierce. We did our best to smoke out the skeeters with a nice campfire before turning in.

After a buckwheat pancake breakfast, we decided to paddle downstream this morning and fish the area below some rapids. Fishing a floating jig and leech above a split shot I had the hot hand and landed a series of really nice smallies (to ~18”). In the current below the rapids they put up a heck of a fight! At one point I yelled over the roar of the water, “Man, I love this kind of fishing!” Shady sarcastically responded “What [kind of fishing is that]? When you’re the only one catching fish?” My hot hand cooled but with some persistence I caught the walleye we knew was hiding down there. Throw in a few pike-it was a great morning!

We fished right through lunchtime but we had a snack before heading back upstream to camp. While eating we met a group on the move. Seriously! As we understood it, they had put in on Moose Lake (assuming the popular one near Ely) Wednesday, rounded American Point (Saganaga n’est-ce pas?) and were back to this point nearing Alice. I don’t know whether to believe it or not, but it sounds like an almost superhuman haul. Shady and I agreed that their apparent trip leader looked like a guy from the “Strangers” group photo-far left QPassage (QP)?

For the second day in a row we had rain throughout much of the afternoon. After dinner the sky stopped dumping and we got out and fished topwaters for smallies. Shady fooled a beautiful 18.5” Smallmouth with a skitter pop. Storm clouds were mounting on the horizon but fortunately we saw no more rain on this trip. We had a nice sunset to go with our campfire.

We decided to revisit our most productive water this morning, which would be our last dedicated fishing day. Within minutes we were on fish and we quickly had three walleyes on the stringer. Our friendly eagle was again intently waiting and watching for an easy meal.

Here comes the obligatory “one that got away story.” Shady was soaking a leech and having far more success than I on this day. But the fishing slowed down after our early success and we were getting ready to pull up the anchor and move a bit. Don’t let him tell you otherwise, Shady didn’t even realize his bobber was down. When he FINALLY did, he picked up the slack and set the hook on what appeared to be a decent fish. But when the aerials started we quickly realized this was a trophy 20+” smallmouth. He battled the fish for a couple minutes, getting it nearly to the boat. But the hook eventually yielded and his monster smallmouth got away. Based on what I saw, I have no doubt this was a 20+” fish.

Although the fishing was a little slower, we were treated to another close encounter with the eagle. This time s/he launched into flight after a 6 or 7” smallmouth struggling at the surface. I was able to catch some of it with my digital camera’s movie feature. While the resolution could be better there are a few pretty cool frames.

After dinner we were cleaning up around camp when Shady commented on a splashing sound from across the river. Sure enough, there was a big cow moose eating, drinking and wading in the small bay directly across from our campsite. We sat and watched her for a good while, but eventually we launched our canoe for one last evening of topwater fishing. She seemed wholly unconcerned with our presence and spent probably an hour and a half dining before returning to the woods. I think we landed a couple small bass but it was just a beautiful night to be out, with a clearing sky and our friend the moose nearby.

We settled down by a fire to take in the peace and quiet. We had seen only 3 or 4 groups in our time camped on the river until…must have been 10 pm when we heard THEM round the bend. With all of the headlamp and flashlight activity you would have thought aliens landed. They proceeded to setup camp right across the bay from us. We could still hear pots and pans loudly clanging after 11 pm, and a pathetic wolf howl imitation rang out from their direction sometime after midnight. Tacky…at best.

Overall it was a great trip. I got to meet some members from bwca.com and we ended up hanging out the night before in camp at Sawbill, and most of the first day of the trip. We separated at Jack/Weird portage. LindenTree3 went on to South Temperance, and mjmkjun went back to try and find a site on Jack that had been open on the way in. After they left was the first slip and fall that I had while trying to get water. I was lucky enough to have a father and son walk across the portage just as I went down. Small bruise to my ego, but none the worse for wear.

I was tired and decided to try and go back to find a site on Jack or Kelly instead of paddling and taking the roughly 300 combined rods to South Temperance. In retrospect, it was probably a bad idea. mkmkjun had said I was welcome to camp with him that night if I wanted so I tried to find his site on Jack. Turns out it was taken by someone else so I kept on going. I came around a bend to see the father and son team taking pictures of a moose and her calf! Very cool stuff and the first moose I had seen in the BWCA. I had picked Baker entry because I heard it was 'Moosey; and was NOT disappointed! The other party and I agreed that it was pretty awesome. I continued to paddle and look for a site, but both of the sites on Jack were full so I kept going.

By the time I reached the portage to Kelly, I was pretty well cooked. It was a nice day, but sun, not enough food/water, and a good amount of paddling into a headwind had taken it's toll. I took a break, had a protein bar, a granola bar, and filtered/drank a bunch of water. While I was getting my wind back, I decided to go and look for the mine entrance near the Jack end of the portage. After a short walk I started seeing old equipment on the ground and then found the entrance to the mine. Neat to see it, and made me wonder how hard i must have been to get all the stuff out there, work the mine, and then get it all back. Must have been a tough group of guys. A little while later, Greg and Mary came along and we chatted for a while. They were super nice! They were out 'looking for some exercise', and quickly grabbed my packs before I had a chance to protest. I thanked them profusely. They said it was no big deal, I seemed a little fried and they were glad to help. Saved my butt for sure.

I got onto the water after a couple more minutes and looked for a site on Kelly. Sure enough, they were all taken. At this point, I decided to try going to Burnt for the night. mjmkjun, and Greg and Mary had both said the portage was rough and they weren't kidding! So, it turns out that I had paddled much longer, and portaged the same amount that I had wanted to avoid. In addition, the portage to South Temperance was supposed to be way easier. Oh well, lesson learned, especially after the second fall while on the portage. I twisted my knee pretty good, but after a few minutes it was feeling better and I pressed on. Very lucky because at first I thought I had hurt it pretty good.

When I got over to Burnt I was very happy to find one of the sites open. Not really sure which one, but I am pretty sure it was one of the 2 north of the portage from Kelly. It was just after I got to camp that I realised my phone/camera/GPS had a dead battery. For some reason it would not take a charge from the portable charger or from the solar panel. No more pics, and navigation gone except for maps. I was most bummed about the lack of pics. I had managed to get around pretty well using only the map I had so wasn't too worried about that aspect. I set up camp, ate, drank a ton of water, and then made a fine dinner of italian sausages and some asparagus for a side. I watched the lake for a while, tried some more fishing and then went to bed a little after dark.

The next morning I woke up and it was beautiful and cool. I left camp set up, and paddled to the 58 rod portage into Flame. What a nice lake. I did a bit of paddling and fishing. Caught a couple small bass and another walleye, this one probably 20". All were released to fight another day. I went back to Burnt. Once I was on Burnt I paddled over to the portage to Smoke. I just walked the portage to stretch my legs and see another lake. After a quick look around, I walked back to my canoe and paddled back to the campsite. I ate a nice lunch of dehydrated Beef Stroganoff and some veggies. HUGE amount of food, but at least it took the guess work out of what I would have for dinner! Had a fire that night while looking at the lake and got to bed a little after dark. It was gorgeous day, and a nice cool night. I decided that I would leave a day earlier than planned. I had had a great trip so far, and the extra time on the way home would allow for some sight seeing and I wouldn't have to rush around to get back to the real world.

The next day, I took my time around camp and then headed for the nasty portage back into Kelly. Funny how your perspective can change after a little R&R. The portage was still tough, but I was in a far better state of mind and not nearly so wiped out. I made it over to Kelly a little after mid-day and starte back toward the Baker entry and the road home.

A few things I learned this trip -

1 - mjmkjun and LindenTree3 are SUPER nice guys. Shared their table with me and were more than helpful while we were together.

2 - When freeze dried food says 1 person they mean 1 1/2. When they say 2, they mean 7. This resulted in too much food which I was hoping to avoid.

3 - If more than one person that has been canoe tripping almost as long as you have been alive, with no agenda to 'scare the solo newbie' says a portage is rough, believe them. I'm looking at you Kelly to Burnt...

4 - Drink water, lots and lots of water.

5 - Yes, you really can smell that bad after a couple days! I went to the AmericInn in Tofte the night after I came out just so I could sleep in a bed and shower. Kristin, the girl behind the counter was amazingly polite, but I noticed she kept backing away from the counter and rubbing her nose. After the first time I tried to stay back a few feet to no avail. Sorry Kristin!!

6 - Greg and Mary (complete strangers, didn't get a last name) saved my A$$ on a portage. Just met them, they saw I was toast and each shouldered up a pack. The best people are BWCA people.

7 - Moose are awesome! Saw two on this trip and they were the first two I ever saw. Beautiful, casual interaction. I hope to see more as soon as I can.

8 - Did I mention the BWCA people being great??

9 - Clothes can be as heavy as everyone says they are. Don't let others convince you in the name of 'comfort'. If you are good with the choice out of the gate based on potential forecast, go with it and worry later.

10 - Double items are not really needed on a short trip. More than that is just crazy - don't listen to outside voices that have never been.

11 - The north shore rocks! Amazing scenery the entire way. Tettegouche, Gooseberry Falls, Split Rock lighthouse all delayed my trip home with no regrets.

12 - Google does a WAY better job of editing my videos than I do.

13 - No matter how confident you are, it's easy to slip and fall on slick rocks. And it sucks! More than once is even worse.

14 - Being lapped by someone 20 years your senior should not be an ego damaging moment, it should let you know that you need to paddle more!

15 - See lesson # 8.

Thanks again to jcavenagh, mjmkjun, and LindenTree3 for their part in making this a great trip. Not sure if solo is the route for me every time, but this trip was one of the great ones.

And now, some pics! ca.com/thumbnails/BFURLOW-200618-195831.JPG" align="left" >