Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

Southern Quetico - Around the Horn
by Beaverjack

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 06/11/2013
Entry Point: Quetico
Exit Point: Quetico  
Number of Days: 14
Group Size: 1
Day 4 of 14
Friday, June 14, 2013 Early departure (6:00) caught the flat water. After all the wind I’ve seen, I’m expecting it to build up early again. Very peaceful. For the first time, I’m starting to feel like I’m in a wilderness. All the canoe traffic past my camp was probably part of this delay. Sarah is a big lake, but I’ve seen lots of people in camps and fishing in distant boats. Mornings are always conducive to the wilderness frame of mind.

The portage from Sarah to McIntyre was not precisely where indicated on the map, and definitely NOT 28 rods – more like 88. McIntyre is a huge lake with lots of camping possibilities. Lots of nooks and crannies, and islands. I’m sure the fishing is good here. If not for the building wind, now coming from the south, I’d toss out a trolling line or pull over for a fishing break. At least the tailwind is moving me along quickly, although it made the landing a little interesting. The portage to Palermo Lake was easier than expected. I met several boatloads of paddlers on the portage trail, most coming from Burt Lake. From what I gathered, the bass are spotty, with lakers providing most of the action. While paddling Palermo, a couple guys overtake me and we chat on the next portage. They've been to Burt before, and tell me where they're planning to camp. I’m glad they're not heading for the “5-star” site I’m planning to check out. By the time I get to the main lake, the wind is blowing pretty good from the SE. On Burt, I pass through some narrow channels and small bays with lots of weeds, all peaking my interest for bass fishing. However, I’m entering on the west side of the lake, and my campsite is on the east side on the big part of the lake. I make the turn into the main part of the lake and head directly towards the south end of the big island to the east. The crosswind is tricky¸ and I’m surprised at how strong the wind has gotten in the past hour. Landing at 11:30, it takes a little to find a soft place to land on this south¬-facing point. Great landings on the east side, but the waves are crashing there, so I go back around the point to the west side and up into the little bay a ways, getting to a small protected landing.

Another nice firepit facing away from the wind.
After inspection of the whole site, I’m not crazy about the tent pad options, which are rocky and bowled, with one having a big ol’ widow maker hanging over it.

One nice thing about the wind, it keeps the bugs at bay so I get camp set up in a flash. I pitch the tarp low and back in the trees a ways to mitigate the wind effect. Fishing from all sides of camp proves to be fruitless. So I must wait for the wind to die to get out in the boat. The west side of the rocks on the point have a shelf 2-3’ below the surface. A great place to take a bath. With the wind, I don't have to worry about getting very personal skeeter bites. The bath feels great. Even without using soap, I feel refreshed and much cleaner, and the clean duds really tops it off. I don't have a change for my outer shirt, so I rinse it out and hang it up. The Coolplus fabric makes it dry quickly. It’s been my favorite tripping shirt over the years. Kinda baggy, but that just makes it more bug proof. It also has a net lining sewn in, and with a tee shirt, I’ve never been eaten alive in it. I leave the sleeves down mostly except in 90+ degree weather. With the wind, I’m fine in my Henley until it dries.

Nothing to do but read and tweak my camp. There’s a stack of firewood that I expand. I rework some of the flat rocks to make a nice protected stove platform in front of the fire pit. Late in the day, the wind abates and I hit the bay south of camp. That way, I can ride the waves back home if things get crazy again. I decide to troll east to west and back, using my trusty Jointed Shad Rap. About the time I’m thinking the high wind is returning, I catch a nice laker. After a couple pictures, I turn him loose and head back to camp for a rice and beans with sweet potato meal, and a mountain margarita.

Daphne and Lulu (my Bear Vaults) are beginning to irritate me. Daphne is a prima dona, who doesn't open-up easily to strangers, and comes off as passive aggressive. Lulu is gossipy and kind of hair-brained.
Here they are next to a mosquito nursery right in the middle of my camp.

After briefly losing my temper with the girls, I separate them for the night and turn in early with big fishing plans for the morning.