I woke up to the sound of a hard rain on my tent wall. Pulling on my rain coat, I stepped outside just as the rain began to die down and got our coffee going. Breakfast that morning was plain French toast bagels and fried walleye. We packed all of our wet things into our packs and pushed off into Maraboeuf under a dark and threatening sky with thunder rumbling in the distance. The storms passed by on each side of us as I kept a close eye on them. Not many things scare me but lightning really makes me nervous. We kept close to shore.

Despite the difficult weather the wind actually wasn’t that bad. Jon and Jesse struggled to keep up. Grandpa and I finally figured out it was the minnow bucket they were dragging behind the canoe and offered to take it for them. After about ten minutes of the hardest paddling we’d ever had, we hollered to Jon to slow down and untie it. Even though it was leaking we didn’t mind putting it in the canoe as behind the canoe it really slowed us down big time. Grandpa and I enjoyed good conversation all the way back to Horsetail Rapids, which was actually a rather relaxing paddle.

We conquered both portages in short order. They were significantly harder now that we were tired from about an hour paddle to get to them. I was really glad that we took the tow boat on the first day. Portaging both canoes was tougher this time but I managed to accomplish this feat after expending quite a bit of effort. Jon slipped in the mud on the Saganaga Falls portage while carrying the bear barrel with Grandpa. He looked up at Grandpa and said, “I’ve fallen and I can’t get up!”

Our original plan was to camp on James Bay, but the previous day we had decided to camp at Saganaga Falls instead, thinking we’d have better luck fishing moving water. My outfitter had circled a campsite on the south end of an island near the falls. We found it immediately and I headed ashore to check it out. In retrospect I’d rate it a four star site. The tent pads, space, and view were fantastic but the landings could have been better and the latrine was quite a hike from camp, but still it was basically brand new. Still, it was close to the falls and would provide a good spot to base camp from, so we broke out our tents and got organized again.

The view is what makes the site. It has a panoramic view facing east right into Canada that really sets off the beauty of Saganaga. The only thing that was a downside about the view (which may make or break it for some people) was a large lake cabin clearly visible from a distance on the Canadian side, flag and all. Still, it was a good site and more of a fishing trip than a wilderness trip, so it worked out. I do have to say that if I had to own a cabin that one would be perfect.

Lunch was summer sausage sandwiches again. I think this is the ideal lunch for the BWCA, as it is filling, keeps well, and is quick and easy to prepare with minimal cleanup. I also brought up a cheap pitcher I had purchased and mixed up some Tang with delicious results. This fantastic additive really makes for a refreshing and energizing drink. I’ll be sure to include it on future trips. As I worked a daring pair of red squirrels began to harass me. Clearly they were used to getting free handouts. They were fun to watch but had absolutely no fear. Over the course of our two days there they managed to get in our trash bag once. I was able to throw them for a loop by placing the trash bag well outside camp on the way to the latrine.

After lunch, we lounged around camp and I played my guitar sitting on the portion of the Canadian shield that formed the shoreline of our island. We also had our daily devotional time, thanking God for His protection and asking for safety and strength for our families back home. As we finished, a significantly large thunderstorm moved in on the Canadian (east) side of the lake. We settled in for a nap and a game of hearts but remained largely high and dry with only a few minutes of hard rain. I later learned that there had been a tornado watch while we were gone and suspect that it happened on this day, as the wind from this storm was really strong. I don’t carry a weather radio and will not, as if I had known there was a watch I would have not slept a wink.

As the rain died down, I emerged from the tent and began preparing our dinner. I selected one of our soup mixtures, a chicken and wild rice soup that has become one of my favorites on our canoe trips. I had to estimate the times of preparation as I had left my watch behind. It was surreal and wonderful to live for five days without a watch, schedules, and the confines of time. The directions on the package of soup suggested adding other meats, so I sliced in a few leftover hot dogs. The result was both hearty and delicious. I also cooked up a package of Knorr’s broccoli rice which served as a nice supplement.

We heard the loons calling as we fell asleep with the wind starting to pick up.