Day 11, September 22 Bentpine to March to Trail to Little Pine to Snow to Your “Stinkin’ Beaver”

We got up at 7am to a cloudless sky. We broke fast with coffee, oatmeal, and leftover pan fried biscuits with honey. We set off around 1000am guided and by some swans made the short leap into March. It was clear and warm and windy.

The leaves are really starting to change color in this area. We crossed another portage into Trail Lake nabbing another small pike. We had been advised to “paddle Trail Creek” but it was basically a total "no go" with water dwindling quickly into yup, you guessed it, consistent beaver activity. We lost count of the number of small beaver dam pullovers and finally ended up lining the boat for some distance through the mucky bog, Tony and I both sucked in past our knees on several occasions. Ultimately, we were forced to portage quite a distance through boggy, five foot high grasses to the mucky edge of Little Pine and then Snow Lake. Yet another adventure along the beaver highway. We paddled along the shore of Snow and had lunch and a short nap on a slab of granite. An eagle chased three swans westward while a turtle lounged on a nearby rock. It was the first day you could paddle in your shirtsleeves but the headwind was brutal. We proceeded across the lake and searched around a little for the portage to Your Lake. The Christmar map was again the most accurate and it took us about an hour to double portage. The portage was long but not too steep or muddy. After loading up on the opposite side we paddled into a stiff headwind choosing a pretty island campsite at about 500pm. The fire pit is on point facing west with the tent pads back in the trees. The wind died around 530pm and we were honored with a calm, beautiful night in the Quetico. We both felt tired but satisfied from all the beaver bog hopping. We made one of our “emergency” freeze dried dinners and were summarily unimpressed (Backpacker’s Pantry Pad See You, Mountain House Stroganoff and Apple Crisp). We chatted for a while about how we prefer to build our own meals from the grocery even though it takes a few more minutes to prepare and cook. We enjoyed a small campfire under starry skies and then shifted to the tent to read with beaver slapping the lake. “They’re stalking us.”

Day 12, September 23 Your to Fair to Badwater

We arose just after 700am to another bluebird day! Thin mist caressed the lake but the sunshine quickly burned through.

Everything was wet with dew at our west facing campsite. Tony really likes this little point and we briefly discussed staying another day but given that our trip was nearing its end we ultimately decided to utilize the good weather and push on. Coffee and oatmeal was on the menu while we packed up a damp camp. We stroked easily out of Your in the dead calm sunshine. A day of Indian Summer at last. The 75-rod portage into Fair turned out to be (Surprise!) a paddle and lift over of two beaver dams, one quite large. We even saw a beaver swimming around checking us out. Tony regaled it with disparaging remarks but it didn’t seem to care. Then he found a small leech clinging to his thumb but a quick check revealed no others. We paddled across Fair and made a short portage into No-Name complete with a steep drop (had to pass the canoe down) and a swampy mud walk to the put in. The lake level appears very low. We paddled across No-Name and made the portage into Badwater. It was midday and still glassy on the water! Wow, are we loving it. We decided to have quick snack. An eagle circled above us but quickly lost interest. Next, we agreed to hunt up a camp in order to dry out and rest up for tomorrow’s long portage back into Quetico Lake. We paddled around checking out camps and decided on a high rocky knob with great views up and down the lake. The fireplace is out on the point with a view though we picked tent and tarp spots further up and back at the edge of the trees. It was so nice we decided to jump in for a quick rinse and napped on the rocks for a while so our clothes could dry in the sun and light breeze. Around 400pm we secured all of our now dry items and headed off to fish in Bee Lake. As we made the turn into the short stream entrance we quickly encountered, yup, another beaver dam. Tony artfully moved a couple of logs to one side and we slid the boat over. Two beavers glared at us from the water. I guess we’re not making any new friends here but really, it was just a couple of logs. . . We fished for a couple of hours with no luck when a beaver popped up about six feet from Tony’s rod. Tony claims he could see water streaming down its face and off its long teeth, but then with a slap of its tail it was gone. Just after sunset as we made our last swing by the coast trolling, Tony hooked a small (14 inches?) walleye with his “walleye whisperer” when suddenly a large (36 inches?) pike tried to swallow it hole. When that didn’t work it came by for a second pass and tried to grab the terrified fish broadside! It made for a very exciting couple of minutes, before Tony had a chance to land the little guy and free him to swim another day. By now, it was about 730pm so we shot for camp in the dwindling light and landed in full darkness. Tony made a small fire while I “cooked” up some Mountain House Sweet and Sour Pork with Ramen stretcher. It was warm is about all I can say about this entrée. We hit the bags around 1030pm. A very fun and varied day.