Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

Homage to the Spartans and other paddling friends
by TuscaroraBorealis

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 05/23/2021
Entry Point: Cross Bay Lake (EP 50)
Exit Point: Missing Link Lake (EP 51)  
Number of Days: 10
Group Size: 2
Day 8 of 10
Sunday, May 30, 2021

Our site is blessed with a shallow water landing so getting the Black Pearl loaded up this morning is almost a joy. The sky is gray and the air is heavy with humidity so, we suit up with our rain gear before officially pushing off.

The lake is quiet this morning and we don't notice anyone else out and about. Retracing the route we followed when we entered the other day, the north island campsite is now vacant and Aurora wants to jump out and see what we may have been missing. There's a nice landing here right in front of the lumpy sloping main camp area. However, there are some nicer tent pads back away from the fire grate area including one back up the high hill where there's an incredible panoramic view of the north part of the lake. Never the less, after a thorough inspection, we both feel the site we had was better.

From here we methodically begin to work our way back to Cross Bay lake. Opting to favor the western route into Lower George Lake we take the 40 rod portage where Aurora lingers on the beach and plays in the sand while I finish the portage. There's a family grabbing a snack at the landing to Lower George and, they tell us they're heading for Frost and plan on doing the Frost River tomorrow. Apparently this is todays bottleneck area as a few canoes are patiently waiting just out from shore as I bring our last load across. Once I push off, the bwca.com sticker on the Black Pearl compels someone to call out and asks my screen name. It's fellow board member Canoe42. After exchanging hellos I quickly clear the area so the pileup of canoes can begin unloading. Always a special thrill to meet fellow bwca.comer's in the wilderness!

After the log jam of other canoes at that portage, it remains pretty quiet until we pass past the now occupied Rib Lake campsite. So far no rain today and, the air still being quite heavy and wanting to cool off, we remove our rain gear. The southern site on Cross Bay is also occupied and we watch as they land a fish as we paddle past. Finally, we paddle up the long arm of Cross Bay to the landing for the portage to Snipe Lake. It's somewhat shallow but, we're able to make it all the way to the landing without having to hop out early.

This portage is fairly challenging especially at the end of a long day and traveling in this direction. Aurora admits she's pretty tired climbing this hill and I tell her to rest at the Snipe landing I will get her last pack. Once getting all our gear it feels like rain is imminent so, we suit up with our rain gear yet again. And, after pinballing the Black Pearl off of the jumble of barely submerged boulders near this landing, the sky does start to spit a little.

Being familiar with Snipe Lake, we paddle past the first campsite without stopping, hopeful for something better than that severely sloped fire grate area. A couple minutes later the dreadful rumble of thunder makes me rethink that decision but, holding my resolve, I put my noodle like arms into overdrive.

For the second time this trip we don't quite make it before the weather hits with full force. Literally a couple of seconds before pulling into a vacant campsite the sky lets loose with a pounding rain. I scurry to bring our packs up the hill where there is, mercifully, an exquisite tent pads under a canopy of balsam & spruce branches. I throw the unneeded packs ashore and drag the canoe up to a safe spot. There aren't really any good tarp options so, I decide to get the tent up ASAP. In the midst of all this I momentarily loose track of Aurora and yell for her. She startles me with her response as she's actually right behind me, wisely hunkering down under natures balsam tree umbrella. I quickly get the tent setup, haul in our packs, we duck out of the rain begin the drying out process while we play some rummy waiting for the rain to subside. WHEW!

After about an hour or so the rain moves on and we crawl out to assess the damage. Things are definitely wet but, I don't see any downed branches or anything like that. I better situate the canoe and our other packs and start organizing camp a little. Of course, Aurora is finding frogs and toads to beat the band so she's happy.

This site would not be good for larger groups but, for the 2 of us it is actually quite nice. It's perched up about 15 feet off the water and affords some nice views across this narrow lake. It also sports about the neatest rock table I've run across up here. I pull out the weather radio and find out that the worst of the storm is moving just south of us and we marvel at the ominous clouds rolling across the sky while we make our late supper.