LIS Loop of Solitude
by loonatic
Day 1 Recap: After spending a great weekend in Ely, we grabbed coffees at Northern Grounds, bought another bottle of bug dope and some itch-relief cream at Piragis, and took off down the Echo Trail, destination EP:14 Little Indian Sioux North. For this trip, we planned a significant amount of travel and packed as light as possible. After reading forums and posts from other visitors, made the decision for the first time to rent a SPOT device from Piragis-- just in case. While we never turned the device on during this trip, that extra sense of security provided a level of comfort considering some unknowns -- rumors of high water, anticipation of fewer visiting groups with permit reductions, and a new route and territory for Emily.
The first thing we noticed – fewer vehicles in the LIS parking lot than we’d ever witnessed before. Unloading our canoe and gear, we did one last check of our provisions and down the first portage we went at about 9:45am! We had the wind at our backs as we paddled down the LIS river. We elected to take the 40-rod portage between Pauness lakes and noticed the water levels had appeared to have receded from earlier season reports. The portage near Devil's Cascade was easily accessed and was not flooded on June 13th.
Paddling up through East Loon Bay on Loon Lake, we stopped for a late lunch at an empty campsite after entering Little Loon Lake. The day was filled with on and off rain, head nets and long sleeves were helpful on mosquito-filled portages. After Loon Lake, we did not pass or notice another visiting group for the remainder of the day; no campsites were occupied after the sand beach site on East Loon Bay. Many of the portages appeared to be very infrequently used -- most had fall leaf matter still "un-trampled". Wolf scat in abundance. We met a number of ruffed grouse on portages, as if they were greeters on Sunday morning at worship as we went from lake to lake. Orchids were in full bloom on portage trails along the way.
South Lake is quite flooded. It should be noted that the portage into South Lake from the west required paddling through some trees to get onto the lake… and the portage out was a little tricky to find.
At about 4:30pm, we decided to set up camp at the northernmost campsite on Eugene Lake. Fairly fresh moose tracks went right through the campsite, and we figure they must have been fairly recent considering the rain that had been coming down. We pitched the tent, set up our tarp, unloaded some gear, and enjoyed steaks and mashed potatoes. It was a long day and we retired to our tent around 9:00pm, reading until falling asleep to the loons calling out to each other.
~Upper Pauness Lake, Lower Pauness Lake, Loon Lake, Little Loon Lake, Slim Lake, South Lake, Steep Lake, Eugene Lake