Sunday, June 11, 2023

Departure by about 6:00 a.m. although, I make a quick U-turn before we make it out of town to grab Aurora’s long sleeve shirt. Hopefully that’s all we forgot. Taking highway 1 south to Isabella, we turn off and traverse the forest roads the rest of the way to the Kawishiwi Lake campground/landing. As fate would have it, 2 other groups pull in within a few minutes of us and we are all joined by clouds of mosquitos as we get our sea-faring vessels loaded.

One of the other groups (a husband/wife?) get started just ahead of us so, being they look like they know what they’re doing, I don’t unfold my map out and just follow them NW up the lake as a faint breeze helps to keep the bugs at bay. Soon, we enter the Kawishiwi River which already appears to be choked with lily pads and various weeds. Still, paddling is not hindered in any meaningful aspect as we enjoy (per Father Brandon) the surrounding scenery of shoreline tamarack trees and various sprouting water flowers.

An almost imperceptible little beaver dam is encountered just before we enter Square Lake but, is easily paddled over as we also begin to encounter the first charred evidential remains of the Pagami Creek fire. While it’s only a quick, short paddle back into the river across Square Lake, we get a good enough look to realize it got hammered by the fire.

The couple ahead of us choose to undertake the portage just past the lake. There is a well-defined landing but, we choose to paddle around and past the downstream landing and don’t encounter even the slightest of problems in doing so. Excepting the beavers totally rearranging their plans, I don’t think this portage would ever be necessary - regardless of water level. Some of the areas back in here remind me of a Louisiana bayou and there is a neat rock outcropping before encountering the 1st of 2 large beaver dams. Obstacle number one is easily pulled over but, the second requires a bit more thought and effort. There is an actual makeshift trail on the east side which comes in handy.

As we paddle through Kawasachong Lake I make a mental note that all sites are currently occupied. This lake also pretty much got leveled by Pagami and the only real evidence of much in the way of mature growth is near the campsites – although even that is sparse.

Pulling into the uninviting large rocky landing just ahead a tandem of motivated paddlers, I quickly defer and let them “play through”. Before undertaking the portage, I give a quick pep talk to the troops saying this should be the worst of the portages we’ll encounter today so, if we can get this one behind us things should get progressively easier as we approach Malberg.

The messy landing behind us; the trail is really a nice flat walk almost the entire way with a fashionable “rock walk” near the mid-point. Nearing Townline there is a noticeable decent that, much like virtually all the trail, currently affords little in the way of shaded relief. Blake quickly proves himself to be a true workhorse as he hauls huge loads across without complaint or, apparently, fatigue.

Townline is a glorified beaver pond that also shows clearly distinguishable signs of the wrath of Pagami. Since there isn’t much for shoreline cover, the large pile of treated lumber just across the lake sticks out like a sore thumb. Undoubtedly this will be used to refurbish the atrocious dilapidated walkway that currently serves as our next landing.

Finishing our slog up the muddy runway, I am pleasantly surprised as I finally reach dry terra-firma when a veiled maiden unexpectedly compliments my bwca.com hat. It’s bwca.com board members Twins87 & luft who are just finishing up their trip! Aurora is surprised that they know her, and we enjoy a nice conversation as they give us up to the minute intel and warn us that the bugs are the worst they’ve ever seen.

Thankfully, for us, the bugs haven’t been too bad yet, and we make quick work of this portage that is much the same as the previous, only the steep descent down to Polly is much shorter and the view from atop the granite knob currently lays out an awe-inspiring panoramic view north across this beautiful lake.

After navigating our way to the north end of the lake we are briefly confused by the maze of islands but eventually find our way to the river outlet. Having heard several recent accounts of people being able to walk through this section, we employ that strategy as well. Getting out to walk our canoes through, the cool water is seen as a blessing as the heat of the day is intensifying. Water levels are sufficiently high enough that we can do so for both the shorter river portages as we also pass over where the old Tomahawk Lumber Company Road crosses the waterway.

The last (longer) portage in Koma comes into view and I tell the troops that should be our last major challenge of the day. Coming across it we note (as Twins87 informed us) that the huge spruce tree that had fallen earlier has been cleared away by another bwca.com member LindenTree. Sad to see such an impressive specimen taken down but nearby, just off the trail on the river side, there is a monstrosity of a white pine still standing guard and we take some time to marvel at this still standing sentinel of the forest.

We also cross paths with a family from Utah traveling southward on this portage and share a walk back to grab our second loads with them. Apparently their 2 sons are attempting to use the river and trying to skip this trail. While a bit long (and currently buggy) to me this path doesn’t seem to pose any overly significant deterrent. As we finish up, the 2 boys are now coming down the trail saying they were resoundingly rebuffed in their river expedition but, still seem contented enough in their effort to try it.

Out on Koma the wind has kicked up some. It’s a good news/bad news scenario. The good news is the cooling breeze feels heavenly and is keeping the bugs away. The bad news is we need to paddle into some pretty good chop. The narrowing north end bay minimizes the waves but there’s a gauntlet of ‘rockodiles’ just below the surface that we need to slalom through before arriving at the expansive rock slab landing.

Hopefully this will be our last portage of the day. It’s an excellent path that skirts the Kawishiwi River and the gurgling rapids that necessitate this portage. It kind of reminds me of the Mora to Little Saganaga portage. As the huge boulder in the middle of the river comes into view, we run across another group here fishing and exploring. They quickly inform us that they are not camping here on Malberg and will be moving on, which helps set our minds at ease about having to potentially compete for a good campsite.

Being our plan is to basecamp here we don’t spend much time appreciating the inherent beauty of this spot and proceed up the lake in hopes of grabbing a quality campsite. It’s one last tussle with the wind as we work our way north up the lake past a couple of vacant sites on the eastern seaboard side of the lake. The first site we see isn’t much of a going concern but the second, near where the Louse River portage is, looks awfully inviting. However, I know the kids would thoroughly enjoy one of the premier beach sites that Malberg has to offer, and I would be remiss if we didn’t at least scope out if they’re available or not. The wisdom of this decision is fortified in the knowledge that all the other people coming in today have already stopped or veered off onto other locales.

Approaching the mid lake narrows the force of the wind mercifully recedes and we can not only appreciate that relief but also several of the unique shoreline rock formations and tiny caves in this immediate area. Of concern, we begin noticing other people around too. Starting with the occupied narrows campsite and seeing a canoe further west down the lake. While my resolve is a bit shaken, we press onward to the central junction of Malberg and begin to come around the point of the long peninsula.

Back deep in this lobe of the lake is our target campsite. So, as we round the horn it’s something of a hold your breath moment. Initially we are so far off that it is hard to discern if anyone is there or not, but it looks open. Drawing nearer, it soon becomes obvious that no one is there, and I feel a sudden strong surge of power in propulsion of the Black Pearl. I also get a little wet as the water is really flying off Aurora’s paddle!

The site is as advertised, and the kids feel the extra paddling was well worth the extra effort. The large beach is certainly inviting and there is a nice transition of lush cedars in gravel just behind that provide multiple excellent shaded spots for tents without the worry of dragging sand into the tent. Alas, the chink in the armor is that the mosquitos are thicker than hair on a dog back in the shade.

Aurora quickly locates a large cedar tree with an idyllic perch from which to lounge and relax while Blake gets his fishing gear ready to roll. Joel and I get our tents up and then it’s a full-fledged retreat out to the beach post haste to avoid the swarm of mosquitos. Finally having an opportunity to take stock of our situation, we note that it took us about 7 hours to get here. I don’t think that’s just too bad when considering we have a newbie & someone who hasn’t done a trip in about a dozen years.

After putting up some firewood; while Joel & I are sitting back relaxing, Aurora continues to amaze me when she asks if she can take the Black Pearl out by herself. Agreeing quickly, although I cautiously instruct her to stay within sight of our camp. While it has died down some it’s still a bit windy, and she gets pushed around a bit, but is able to successfully navigate around the better percentage of this large back bay without any help or instruction. I don’t know who’s the most excited or proud? Her for having accomplished the feat or me for having witnessed her having the confidence and fortitude to do so.

The 2 growlers of Blueberry Blonde we grabbed from the Boathouse last night essentially evaporate here this evening as Joel & I bask in the radiant glow of our crackling campfire which is dutifully policed by both younger members of our crew. Undaunted by earlier lack of success, Blake eventually pulls in the first fish of the trip (from shore) before the sun sets; hopeful that this ‘primes the pump’ for the remainder of our stay.