What does it take to not get broken off by a toothy critter?

Pike are the last fish I really want to hook up with, but on my last BWCA trip, I had one break me off right at the boat.

Will a mid-strength braid hold? Is a steel leader required?

Thanks!

with my fly rod i use 10 lb fluorocarbon for leaders, drastically reduces "bite-offs" i don't see why this wouldn't work with other types of fishing.

but for spinning and bait casting i use 6 to 12 inch stranded titanium leaders.

tyh

Anytime you're fishing for walleyes or other species, a northern is likely to hit. Some of the biggest northerns I've caught were caught on a jig with no steel leader. (You don't want to jig with a leader. If you get bit off, so be it. Nothing you can do about it.)

When casting or trolling, I always use a 12" steel leader, usually silver in color. I never get bit off then.

Why don't you want to catch northerns? They can be huge fun.

Braid is no protection against pike...they'll cut through the toughest stuff you've got. Flouro is better but no guarantee.

Steel leaders work and are pretty inexpensive. They're also bulky and get pretty kinked up pretty quickly.

I like titanium leaders that I tie myself. Lots of youtube videos out there showing the steps, and with a bit of practice you'll be a pro.

I never have used steel leaders. I don't fish for pike usually but we have had some really good days catching them. Last trip my biggest pike was 35" with a leech on 6lb. Line. Light line fishing is my favorite.

It's quite possible that you got broken off and not cut off particularly with a pike right at the boat. They tend to make their biggest run often right at the boat. Steel leader or not, you're getting broken off if the drag isn't set correctly.

If you're walleye fishing, ditch the steel leader. It will hurt your catching, especially if you're using premade store bought leaders. Besides, it is surprising how many pike which can be landed without steel.

If you are determined to use steel while walleye fishing, then building your own "finesse" leaders is the way to go. Knot-2-kinky titanium leader material in say 15lb class will offer hair thin protection. Couple the wire with tiny spro barrel swivels and cross lock snaps and you have a superior set up which will still readily take walleye.

When fighting pike, be advised that they commonly make a big run at the boat. This complicates things for the average fisherman. There is no shock absorbing stretch in mono at close quarters. Add in a bent rod which is contacting the eyes of the rod under extreme tension and the drag which may have worked fine earlier is now poised to fail. There are two options, loosen the drag near the boat........or do what I do.

When I get a nice pike on light spinning tackle, I turn off my anti reverse, a simple flip of a switch. Then if Mr. Big decides to dart, I merely let go of my handle. I have been soundly trashed by those who have never tried the procedure and don't know any better. It works amazingly well and is my common fish fighting manner with all fish on light spinning tackle. It is very easy to feather the spool with a forefinger if required. I can do it in my sleep with little expertise required. No fumbling with a drag, just let go of the handle if you are under extreme stress. It is surprising at how quickly the fish stops its run and just sits there until you grab the handle and start the fight over again. To the doubters I say tsk, tsk.

I'm regularly amazed how seldom I get bit/cut off by northerns fishing 8-10 lb. mono with no leader. Sure infrequent enough I'm not inclined to use them. I do carry a few titanium ones with me, expecting at some point I'll get into an area lousy with northerns wanting to take lures deep enough to expose my line to their chompers. I rarely am targeting northerns, btw.

Just get a couple of titanium leaders and use those when required. They are thinner in diameter compared to steel, they don't kink up like steel, they are stronger than steel and they last forever until you get it snagged and can't get it back. Sure they are more expensive than steel, but well worth the money.

I catch a lot of Walleye and Pike on just spinners trolling. I don’t have many break offs with this method. Mostly I get then stuck in the rocks and break off. If the pike rolls he will cut the line with his gill plate. Fight him right and you can control that too. If you want to use a leader get a quality one made out of Titanium with a ball bearing swivel.
Personally I don’t use leaders much, just take a lot of jigs and spinners.

When fishing for Mackerel I use fluorocarbon leaders and rarely get bit off. Pike would be similar.

mastertangler: "It's quite possible that you got broken off and not cut off particularly with a pike right at the boat. They tend to make their biggest run often right at the boat. Steel leader or not, you're getting broken off if the drag isn't set correctly.

If you're walleye fishing, ditch the steel leader. It will hurt your catching, especially if you're using premade store bought leaders. Besides, it is surprising how many pike which can be landed without steel.

If you are determined to use steel while walleye fishing, then building your own "finesse" leaders is the way to go. Knot-2-kinky titanium leader material in say 15lb class will offer hair thin protection. Couple the wire with tiny spro barrel swivels and cross lock snaps and you have a superior set up which will still readily take walleye.

When fighting pike, be advised that they commonly make a big run at the boat. This complicates things for the average fisherman. There is no shock absorbing stretch in mono at close quarters. Add in a bent rod which is contacting the eyes of the rod under extreme tension and the drag which may have worked fine earlier is now poised to fail. There are two options, loosen the drag near the boat........or do what I do.

When I get a nice pike on light spinning tackle, I turn off my anti reverse, a simple flip of a switch. Then if Mr. Big decides to dart, I merely let go of my handle. I have been soundly trashed by those who have never tried the procedure and don't know any better. It works amazingly well and is my common fish fighting manner with all fish on light spinning tackle. It is very easy to feather the spool with a forefinger if required. I can do it in my sleep with little expertise required. No fumbling with a drag, just let go of the handle if you are under extreme stress. It is surprising at how quickly the fish stops its run and just sits there until you grab the handle and start the fight over again. To the doubters I say tsk, tsk. "

Completely agree with your thoughts re: anti-reverse, Knot-2-Kinky leaders, ditching leader for walleye fishing (if jigging or other live bait applications). Jig fishing for walleye, I don't mind losing a few jig heads, it's faster to tie on a jig after a cutoff than to hassle with a northern in the canoe!! LOL

Jigs and spoons are 2 presentations which pike are apt to nip. Jigs they tend to completely inhale. Spoons I think they tend to slash and sometimes miss the mark and hit ahead of the lure.

I will disagree with QM slightly concerning premade titanium leaders. While they are a top choice for purely pike fishing I find them inferior as a multi species option. While thinner than other store bought choices, they don't compare to the almost hair thin Knot-2-Kinky titanium wire in say a 15lb class that one ties up independently.

I did not understand the difference until I seen one. I marveled at the difference. How could something so thin offer protection? My partner went on to show me that he caught just as many walleye with the protection as without and when a 40" pike showed up, it was confidently caught.

I, on the other hand, lost the pike of a lifetime (it was towing my boat) as my leaderless line parted a few minutes into the tussle.

Of course now when I pike fish I don't monkey around and it's 65lb braid and 60lb fluorocarbon leader. "Go ahead and try me big girl". It's a good feeing knowing that if they bite it, you have a 90% chance that regardless how big it is, it's gonna get its picture taken.

Lastly, I am still inclined to believe that most pike lost right at the boat on walleye tackle are likely the result of a broken line and not a cut line. Hence, the wire would likely made little difference. When in close, the average angler is very likely to have the rod tight indeed in a "C" bend. The line is contacting every eyelet with considerable tension. All this tension is often enough to prevent the drag from releasing. Since the fish is basically directly below the boat, the "C" shape in the rod is difficult to prevent. Be prepared to "follow" a big fish down into the water column to relieve the pressure which is exerted upon the eyelets. You might have to stick the rod into the water and point the rod directly at the fish to allow the drag to work properly.

On utube if you type in "MT catches a mutton", you can observe how when the big mutton makes a solid run I lean over the rail and, if need be, will point the rod directly at the fish to allow the drag to operate without resistance of the eyelets. Then when the danger is over I am right back on the fish with a solid bend in the rod. (To get an idea of the strength of salt water fish that fish was caught on 50lb line and can easily break it).

Just checked their web site....Knot2Kinky comes in 18 lb, 12 lb, and (drum roll) 6 lb!!! The six lb is truly hair thin. It also stretches just slightly. Amazing product, and amazingly affordable. Would never use anything else. Instructions for tying to swivels come with the product.

mastertangler: "Jigs and spoons are 2 presentations which pike are apt to nip. Jigs they tend to completely inhale. Spoons I think they tend to slash and sometimes miss the mark and hit ahead of the lure.


I will disagree with QM slightly concerning premade titanium leaders. While they are a top choice for purely pike fishing I find them inferior as a multi species option. While thinner than other store bought choices, they don't compare to the almost hair thin Knot-2-Kinky titanium wire in say a 15lb class that one ties up independently.


I did not understand the difference until I seen one. I marveled at the difference. How could something so thin offer protection? My partner went on to show me that he caught just as many walleye with the protection as without and when a 40" pike showed up, it was confidently caught.


I, on the other hand, lost the pike of a lifetime (it was towing my boat) as my leaderless line parted a few minutes into the tussle.


Of course now when I pike fish I don't monkey around and it's 65lb braid and 60lb fluorocarbon leader. "Go ahead and try me big girl". It's a good feeing knowing that if they bite it, you have a 90% chance that regardless how big it is, it's gonna get its picture taken.

Lastly, I am still inclined to believe that most pike lost right at the boat on walleye tackle are likely the result of a broken line and not a cut line. Hence, the wire would likely made little difference. When in close, the average angler is very likely to have the rod tight indeed in a "C" bend. The line is contacting every eyelet with considerable tension. All this tension is often enough to prevent the drag from releasing. Since the fish is basically directly below the boat, the "C" shape in the rod is difficult to prevent. Be prepared to "follow" a big fish down into the water column to relieve the pressure which is exerted upon the eyelets. You might have to stick the rod into the water and point the rod directly at the fish to allow the drag to work properly.

On utube if you type in "MT catches a mutton", you can observe how when the big mutton makes a solid run I lean over the rail and, if need be, will point the rod directly at the fish to allow the drag to operate without resistance of the eyelets. Then when the danger is over I am right back on the fish with a solid bend in the rod. (To get an idea of the strength of salt water fish that fish was caught on 50lb line and can easily break it)."

Bare hook

I am pretty sure I have the 19lb test........I think my buddy used the 12lb and I would be reluctant to try the six.

Working with it is not like tying with mono. I would investigate thoroughly via utube as there is probably a variety of ways to tie. An ideal tool to tighten knots down would be the mini Craftsman channel locks. A small bench vise is also helpful. Be sure to test your work.

I like small spro power barrel swivels for the line tie and a simple cross lock snap for lures which don't spin. Naturally spoons and spinners etc need a snap swivel and I prefer Sampo.

They really are a superior presentation especially if you expect walleye. If purely pike fishing and want wire I use what QM suggests.......quality pre made titanium leaders which run about $5 a piece and sold as a pair.

Be careful about tying to short. 9" is probably about right.......longer would offer more protection, especially with bigger fish, but can be awkward (even dangerous) to cast in the close confines of a canoe.

I only use leaders when strictly targeting pike. If I am fishing for any other species I would not bother with a leader (unless it is the last of a special lure that I would not want to lose).

ditto everything said about knot-2-kinky. that stuff is fantastic.