BWCA Gunflint vs Ely Area? Boundary Waters Trip Planning Forum
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Reke0402
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11/27/2018 02:23PM   (Thread Older Than 3 Years)
This is a pretty broad question, but what are some of the differences between the Ely and Gunflint entry points? Is the Gunflint area not as busy since there are fewer outfitters compared to Ely or is it just as busy? What about fishing?

Like I said, I know it's a broad question, but just curious about the differences between the two areas.
 
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flynn
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11/27/2018 03:00PM  
I'd like to know what people think of the terrain differences, like a bit west of Ely (around Mudro or even Little Indian Sioux) and a bit west of the Gunflint area (around Seagull/Round). I found the area around Knife Lake, both west and east, a bit further north, and south, to be fairly rocky with lots of cedar (and birch, and red pine, and many more trees). I thought it was rockier in the more northern portions of my trips (around Knife/Kek/Cherry) than in the southern portions around Fraser/Ima/Ensign where I found it a little more lush, a bit like wetlands, still with plenty of rocks though.

Would love to hear other people's takes on terrain throughout the BWCA, including elevation, tree density, tree type, rivers, wetlands, lake density (how close together/small or far apart/big are the lakes?), stuff like that. I want to see a variety of terrain and I think I've seen a lot of what the central BWCA has to offer, but I'd like to see more of the west side and more of the east side and just wonder what I should expect. Photos and videos work but a summarized explanation of the terrain is cool too.

Thanks! Good topic!
11/27/2018 04:14PM  
Gunflint area you're more likely to encounter effects of the '99 blowdown and subsequent fires, although you can get that same moonscape by entering anywhere around the Pagami fire. Gunflint area also seems to have more prominent terrain features, especially the closer you get to the border.

While you're never that far from civilization anywhere you're in there, the Gunflint area has always felt more remote to me versus Ely because the town is right there. There's businesses here & there along the GFT but "town" is an hour's drive from the end of the trail.

Ely area is more wooded, either older growth or regrowth after logging.
11/27/2018 06:57PM  
Fishing wise; more lake trout habitat on the E side compared to W. Portage's also usually run more N to S over serious terrian compared to W side.
11/27/2018 10:03PM  
We like the hub of Ely outfitters being semi-close to the EP, makes the experience a little more fun for us. Plus Ely is so darn cool. Lots of great EPs with granite outcroppings which is our favorite and a GOOD chance to slay some SMB, again - our favorite.
11/28/2018 09:22AM  
Never been to Ely but after doing the research, I figured that there was plenty to see on the Gunflint side that I liked better. More elevation change, rockier, and less people. I'm not opposed to heading to the Ely side, but when I'm making plans almost all the options on my list are on the east side.
11/28/2018 10:18AM  
I've been in at several Ely entries but only a couple Gunflint entries; but for us it was striking how much more rugged the terrain was on the Gunflint side. The terrain is much easier along the Echo Trail entries.

Equally striking on our August trip from EP 49 (Poplar Lake - Gunflint Trail side) through Quetico to EP 23 (Mudro - Echo Trail side) was how much more heavily used the Ely side felt. We followed a relatively difficult (and hence probably less-traveled) route, which may have some impact, but the portages on the Gunflint side were relatively narrow, and the human presence was more subtle. The Mudro area of course is one of the most heavily traveled. The effect was stronger because we'd traveled 60 miles in Quetico after Gunflint and before entering the Mudro area, but it felt practically like a state park: overused, with all trails wide and denuded to dirt and rock.
11/28/2018 10:56AM  
Also a more picturesque drive up the North Short on the Gunflint side.
11/28/2018 11:03AM  
Like others have said, I think of the Gunflint side as hillier, more lake trout lakes, fewer people, and maybe more moose too. Ely might seem closer to some entries, but I think its not much different from Ely to Lake One or LISNorth than it is GM to Round Lake - close anyway. I like both towns, but currently leaning toward GM as I favor their coffee and breweries. Historically I've gone more toward Ely or Sawbill as it seemed a shorter drive from the Twin Cities.
mjmkjun
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11/29/2018 05:02AM  
johndku: "Also a more picturesque drive up the North Short on the Gunflint side. "

true dat. North Shore (hwy 61) a beautiful scenic drive. I've had residents along that drive wave at me as I drive by. A throwback to those slower-paced, friendlier times.
Gunflint side has skinny lakes that have an east to west orientation. I like that.
Ely is a likable, friendly town, for sure. Grand Marais is a likable, touristy town.
I lean towards east end. I'm not sure why. Palisades, maybe. Visually less congestion, maybe.
Maybe I like paying higher gas prices when way up the Gunflint Trail. :-) When I turned off the Gunflint Trail onto the road leading to Hungry Jack Lodge I saw two normally shy animals: a fox and a bobcat hunting by the side of the road--unafraid. Like!
11/29/2018 07:25AM  
The only thing that I can add to what's already been posted is I find it a lot easier to get a permit in the Sawbill and Gunflint areas than it is in the Ely area. Most of my trips are planned less than a month before I go. For example... last year I did 2 trips. 1st trip was solo in late May and I did not reserve a permit for a Homer entry. Just walked into to the Tofte Ranger Station and asked for a permit. 2nd trip was with my older daughter entering at Clearwater the weekend before the 4th of July and I reserved my permit 2 weeks before the trip.

The only way I've been able to do that on the Ely side is to go early May before fishing opener and in the fall. Even on my solo at the end of September about 6 years ago doing the Kawishiwi Triangle near Ely I saw a lot of people and I only found a South Kawishiwi River permit after someone cancelled it.
11/30/2018 07:03AM  
If I am going with people that may only do one trip, I lean toward recommending the east side up the Gunflint Trail. The north shore drive is special.
cyclones30
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11/30/2018 11:20PM  
Already mentioned but I'll agree with landscape differences. Portions of gunflint have lakes that are mainly long and E-W so a west wind can be less than ideal. That side is much more extreme when it comes to elevation change.

Ely side has less hills in general and no real lake shape that dominates.
Selfsuffi
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12/01/2018 10:37AM  
cyclones30: "Already mentioned but I'll agree with landscape differences. Portions of gunflint have lakes that are mainly long and E-W so a west wind can be less than ideal. That side is much more extreme when it comes to elevation change.


Ely side has less hills in general and no real lake shape that dominates. "


I would argue the wind....no matter what direction I go it always seems to be blowing right at me... ;)
12/02/2018 07:07PM  
Several outfitters on the GFT where you can launch directly. Not a big deal but it can make your last paddle a little less structured, just get back before they go to bed and it's cool. I think people like myself who are not native to that culture should go to Ely at least once and spend some time around the town.
12/17/2018 04:54PM  
This past summer was my groups first trip out of the Ely side. We did a loop from EP 14 (Little Indian River Sioux) to EP16 (Moose River) via Lac La Croix. It was very cool, but we all agreed that we prefer the End of the Trail side of the BW. Our typical trip happens in late August; just to let you know when we are usually in.

The lakes on the Ely side were swampier, and murkier. The mosquitos were thicker, and there was far more boat traffic. Paddling the rivers was great and I would do that again in a heartbeat. But the only lake I fell in love with was LLC. It seemed like the land was less extreme in elevation changes with less cliff features and shallower waters.

I am very glad I did the Ely side once, but I think I prefer the lakes on the other end; like Ottertrack, Ogish, Kekekabic, and South Arm Knife.
analyzer
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12/21/2018 12:21AM  
Regarding the trip to Ely, and the Trip to Grand Marais, I like going to Grand Marais a bit better, as I get to see Lake superior. I think the town of Ely has far more to offer. You can have the best of both worlds by driving to route 1, just north of Silver Bay, before heading to Ely, rather than heading up 53 out of Cloquet. If you have time, when you get North of Duluth, instead of taking the newer highway 61 to two harbers, take the old scenic route right along the lake. It might add 15 or 20 minutes to your travel time, but if you haven't driven along there, it's pretty.

Regarding Gunflint or Ely, I prefer Gunflint side because in my opinion there are less people, and more opportunities for seclusion. I also think it makes a difference in the potential to run into noisy campers.

The End of the gunflint trail is 60 miles from Grand Marais. I think that is a deterrent to high school kids looking for a place to party. If you were a teen ager, and looking for a place to get away from supervision, the boundary waters seems like easy, cheap place to camp, and some of the entry points on the Ely side are so close to town, I think it may be vulnerable to that. I've heard a person or 6 on this site complain about noise from time to time, and I seem to hear more complaints from the Ely side of things. But I am biased, and could be wrong.

Having said all that, I love the Horse River, Lower Basswood Falls, Crooked Lake loop, and have many fond memories of that route.

I think fishing can be good both sides. I would just do alot of searching and reading on here, especially the trip reports, and you'll figure it out.
schweady
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12/21/2018 04:54PM  
Like making most travel recommendations, it will depend somewhat on the experiences you had that might not be possible to replicate: weather, number of visitors at the time, particular sites open or chosen, members of your party...

That said, it's easy to point out a major difference - topography. East side has so many more cliffs and palisades, most landings are huge bolder fields vs the west side's relatively sandy/rubbly makeup. Fewer people, sure, but the longest backtrack we've ever taken to find an open campsite was on an eastern lake - Clearwater. (Sure, we could have pressed on to Caribou and Little Caribou and beyond, but our goal was a no-portage entry and do our day tripping from there.)

38 trips in the western end, 2 trips in the east. We love experiencing both sides and aim to balance things out somewhat in the future, but we wind up going through Ely most trips as the drive is 1-1/2 hours shorter from west central MN.
 
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