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Judy Noel
Guest Paddler
  
12/25/2018 12:11AM  
A group of about 8 women in our 50's and 60's are planning a trip to the Boundary Waters in mid-August. We are looking at entry points and reservation strategy. We are planning a 5 day canoe trip over 7 days to allow for inclement weather or down time. We expect that portages will be out biggest challenge so are looking for more time on the water. We will be renting Kevlar canoes and probably working with an outfitter to plan routes. So here are my questions:
We’ve sort of narrowed our search for access points to Little Sioux River or Mudro Lake. Would you recommend those routes?
What’s the best strategy for getting into the access point we want given the quotas? Apparently, the lottery system is not in place this year. Should we put in multiple requests? We are planning on going in on Wednesday, 8/14.
Are you familiar with any outfitters out of Ely? We are looking for someone to rent equipment, deliver equipment to our put in, help us plan routes, etc. We will be bringing our own food.
 
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billconner
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12/25/2018 07:45AM  
You'll get a lot of responses. Definitely work with an outfitter for first trip especially from long distance. I think they all are pretty good based on the loyalty most here have to "their” outfitter. I went to Canoe Country Outfitters the first time I went and every time since - 25 or so trips. I like their lodging options in Ely and at Moose Lake, which doesn't benefit you.

If your entry dates are firm and focused on those two entries, let the outfitter get it for you. A few dollars. Still have a second choice. Pretty sure you'll get one or the other. I have done LIS north twice. Modest portage's and good scenery.

Regarding your portage's concerns, if you can possibly live without it, leave it out. You'll still carry too much on your first trip. And put everything in a pack - very few if any loose/hand items.

Ask here about anything. Lots of experience here.

12/25/2018 08:02AM  
I will presume your group has canoe experience. Little things like trim can make such a difference so if you have this knowledge base then great, if not ask questions. Navigation on lakes is a bit different than trails, another area that if you have experience or not can make a difference.
I also recommend you use the search function on the toolbar. It will take you to threads on your topic and if you ask for trip reports from possible trip routes it will give you that data. The maps have little dots that add more information about camping, portages, sites of interest and fishing spots. Outfitters are also very helpful and for first time trippers I would strongly recommend any that are listed in the outfitter tab. Yes they support the forum, but they also have user support and are a known item.
You can watch the reservation list at Rec.gov which is a good site to visit. Since you are starting early you should have no trouble getting the dates you want and again the outfitter is great at coordinating this. And you can pick up your permit at the outfitter.
I have also done the LIS north and plan to return, a nice area. But to my knowledge there really are no bad routes, some with a killer portage that leads to solitude, but no bad portages as solitude can be worth hauling gear a mile or so. Talk to a couple outfitters and make your choice early. A better route might be possible for your group, but without some discussion I would not want to suggest what is right for your group. And do not be scared off by the portages, they offer a nice break from paddling and give another perspective of the unique wilderness. Some people come just to hike the hiking trails.
A final comment, welcome. I have many reasons to suspect your group will really enjoy this trip and create lifetime memories.
airmorse
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12/25/2018 09:18AM  
Our group has done both of those entries many times. Both are good choices, but can be very busy.

LIS14 north. You can portage up to Loon lake then over to Heritage then down to Shell then back out. Easy trip. We have stayed at a few sites on Loon and the north site on Heritage. You can paddle up to the mechanical portage on the north end of Loon. (You may or may not be able to make a small donation to the portage operator and get some adult beverages and ice. Nice treat on a hot summer day.) Not that we ever did that...but im just saying it may be an option.

Ep23. You can do the loop north thru fourtown up moosecamp creek to moosecamp lake then over to gun or fairy or boot then exit.

The moosecamp creek/river is a very nice paddle with a few beaver damns to lift over. The middle and east campsite on moosecamp are excellent not sure about the western site. You can find logging relics at both the middle and eastern site. And along the moosecamp creek/river. Please dont take, but leave for others to enjoy.

Enjoy your planning. The map function on this site will allow you to see what people have rated portages and campsites along your planned route.

I would also go thru an outfitter if this is your first time.
airmorse
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12/25/2018 12:44PM  
To add to the above. Reservations become available the end of January thru recreation.gov. You can reserve your permit then pick it up at the USFS ranger station in Ely the day b4 your entry day or the day of. You can also pick up your permit at a participating Co-op Outfitter. But you have to name the outfitter where you will be picking up your permit.

If you really really want that date i would be on the computer clicking away the second permits become available.
andym
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12/25/2018 04:53PM  
Note that you can assign or switch the outfitter where you will get the permit later. It isn’t fixed when you reserve the permit. I haven’t done those routes but they both seem like a good balance of less portaging and smaller lakes. Some routes have less portaging but larger lakes that can become difficult and even dangerous in windy conditions.

The forum is a great resource but I still recommend Clif Jacobsen’s book “Boundary Waters Canoe Camping” as a good, well organized, overview. Then the forum is a great place to ask questions.

We don’t use outfitters for much these days but have been happy with Voyageur North who often provide info on this forum. We also rent bits of gear from Piragis and have been happy with those bits and see plenty of happy groups there too.
12/25/2018 09:18PM  
The BWCA is blessed with good outfitters. Piragis is a great place to shop even if you don’t use them. Drew and and what’s his name... oh, Adam. Haha. Are very knowledgeable about the areas you have chosen. I’d console them or Voyager north, another good choice both of which can steer you onto a great route. I’d do that ASAP as like mentioned, you’ll want to secure a permit later in January when reservations open up. I’d give you my advice, but they have better experience with groups of your type and size.
campnfish
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12/25/2018 10:21PM  
Little Indian Sioux, the river can be windy and some of those portages in my mind are not easy in and outs, even the put in right at the Entry Point isn't very fun due to the rocks, and busy as others have mentioned. I cant comment on Mudro, i haven't done this entry point.

One easy trip i can recommend is Moose Lake entry point # 25, head up to splash lake for a very easy portage, and then paddle over to Ensign. You can hang out on Ensign and base camp, then explore with just canoes and portage to other lakes nearby, probably south of ensign as i think they are easier to get into. Moose Lake can be windy at times, early start is always best, if you have the money you can also get a tow from an outfitter up to the splash portage. Ensign is also a busy area, probably due to how easy it is to get to and the fishing is pretty good as well.
Guest Paddler
  
12/26/2018 01:02AM  
Thank you so much! This is so helpful. Sounds like our next step should be to find an outfitter. I really appreciate your first hand knowledge and willingness to share advice.
andym
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12/26/2018 05:51PM  
You might also watch the new permit videos to get a little info: Thread on new permit videos
12/26/2018 07:18PM  
Yes, picking an entry and outfitter will be your first order of business. The two entries you mentioned are both popular and permits can be totally reserved at times. They are first-come, first-served and are available beginning the last Wednesday of January (the 30th in 2019). You can get your own or have the outfitter get it for you. I'd suggest the latter since there are some new requirements in 2019 and you have never done it before. The cost is minimal and well worth it.

You can click on the Outfitters tab at the top and select the Ely outfitters. There will be a link to their website and you can compare the services they offer. In addition, most will have some suggested routes on their website. If you click on Planning, then trip reports, then Boundary Waters (BW) trips, you'll get a list of trip reports, which you can sort by entry point. That will provide you a lot of different information and several different perspectives. Also as mentioned, you can click on Maps and Entry Points, and scroll through the maps for your entry point and click on the portages and campsites for comments there.

Someone mentioned Cliff Jacobson's book on canoeing the BW and there are also guidebooks by Beymer and Pauly, if you want those. You mentioned having the outfitter deliver canoes and equipment to the entry point, but you could easily do that yourself if you have two vehicles. Two vehicles would also open the option of entering one place and exiting another. For example, you enter at Little Indian Sioux North and leave one vehicle at Moose River North to exit there, about 9 miles away.

Just keep asking questions and you'll get a lot of different answers.
gravelroad
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12/27/2018 01:34PM  
Nine responses and not one mention yet of the arthropods. :-)

How are Bugs in early August?
mastertangler
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12/29/2018 09:57AM  
August is a great month with generally stable conditions and the bugs are mostly down (exemptions, of course, do occur ;-)

My initial thought is the brevity of your time frame. Washington is a "good piece" from canoe country and 5 or 6 days is quite frankly a bit short a time span to actually enjoy oneself IMHO after having travelled such a distance. 7 days on the water sounds better. A day off and hanging around camp does wonders for morale.

If your experienced canoeists then a loop can be had.......but if you have any "weak links" a base camp type trip with planned day trips to side lakes gets the nod. Have a reliable weather band radio with spare batteries to plan your days. Do your day trips with the knowledge that you may not be able to get back to camp depending on weather conditions and a comfortable and safe forced delay favors the prepared. I never venture far from camp without excellent rain gear, a bug shirt or headnet (just in case you have to spend the night in the open......I have never had to but it would not be surprising.......3 ft whitecaps can happen in a 15 minute window)......a space blanket, flashlight w/spare batteries and fire starting gear is a must. Lastly, leave a note in a tent if you day trip as per your itinerary, especially if your side lake is a dead end and not part of a travel route where one can expect other paddlers.
Guest Paddler
  
01/18/2019 11:54PM  
Excellent advice! Thank you so much. We will be packing those emergency supplies.
cyclones30
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01/19/2019 08:13AM  
We've done both of those entries at least once. Both are good areas, well travelled unless you get in quite a ways. Both have some small stream paddling and small to medium lakes. What are you wanting to do or see? Fishing....scenery, soilitude, more paddling over portaging it sounds.

You already have good advice on outfitters, talk their ears off about your answers to my questions above. Have a plan of where you want to go from your entry but be open to whatever works. Maybe you end up going farther if everyone feels good or stop early at an amazing campsite, be flexible.
01/19/2019 06:15PM  
Kudos to you and your group for taking the plunge on a BWCA trip...it may well be a trip of a lifetime for you. Although it is hard to have a bad trip up there, many things can influence on just how successful it is. Number one, in my mind, can be the weather. So in that respect you are going in perhaps the best time - the water is at its warmest, air temps are usually pretty comfortable(but be prepared for extremes), bugs have retreated somewhat usually although no guarantees on that one, you may very well find a bounty of ripe wild raspberries and blueberries and the weather is just generally pretty stable.

There are three main kinds of trips: a loop where you enter and make a big circle(roughly) and come out at the same lake 7 days later...an out and back trip where you go in as far as you desire and retrace your steps to the same lake(this may sound boring but the scenery really does look different on the way back, and you get to explore or stay at a place that looked interesting on the way up), or a trip where you are shuttled to the entry and your cars are parked at a different lake for exit...or vice versa. They are all good options, none is necessarily better than another. You should think about what appeals to you and then apply it to the route you are considering...some entries/routes don't work that well with the loop option in particular, given the amount of time you have. But most can be made to work. My only suggestion around this would be to not to plan too aggressive of a trip. Planning an extra two days for weather is a smart move, hopefully you won't need it and it will just give you more flexibility to stay an extra day at a site or two you really like. Given the makeup of your group, my guess is that you, or at least most of you are old friends that wouldn't be bored no matter the situation. You won't necessarily need to move every day but will enjoy the beauty and tranquility of your surroundings in concert with the company of people you really like.

I have never done the LIS route, not sure how I have missed it with around 40 trips taken. It is very popular and I am sure it would be a good route. I have done the Mudro entry and it is one of my favorite areas. Here is some info on that route:

Your first day will be your most challenging. the first and third portages are short but among the rockiest I have seen up there, take extra care on these. The second one has a bit of a reputation...around 100 rods but a narrow path with considerable elevation changes and a lousy ending on the north side. We were apprehensive about it but after it was done we thought...that's it? Not as bad as advertised. That will bring you to Fourtown lake which is a beautiful but busy lake. First opportunity to camp but I wouldn't stop there. Head west to Boot Lake over a pretty scenic and easy portage and there are 5 campsites to choose from. Unless you as a group have had enough at that point though, i would continue on one more lake and make camp on Fairy Lake. With luck you would get the eastern site which is an awesome site, and the lake is an intimate and charming place. Moving on, notice that going to Gun from Fairy there is an incredible change in the clarity of the water, Gun is crystal clear and has several nice sites. From Gun you can go either east or west...we went through Gull and Thunder and into Beartrap for lunch at the 5 star site there. Gull has an amazing peninsula site as well. Or you could go east down the barrel of Gun to Moosecamp Lake which reportedly is a very nice spot, and down the Moosecamp River if you choose. We wanted to do that but the water levels were reportedly extremely low when we were there so we did not. It sounds like a great adventure. With the amount of time you have you could easily do both...head up towards Gull, Thunder and Beartrap and stay a night or two, then retreat and head towards Moosecamp. This entire route could be done in two days by strong paddlers and portagers so you will not be pushing it at all. it definitely leaves a couple layover days available. Fourtown would be a good place to camp on your last night if you so choose, that's what we did. It leaves a pretty easy exit on your last day which is always nice.

If you were to go on this route, your first day would be your toughest but it might be worth it to get in a bit. Although nothing wrong at all about just staying on Fourtown if you find a site you like. This trip allows lots of options. A good practice on travel days would be to try and be done with breakfast and packing up camp and hit the water by 9am or so. Paddle and portage at your leisure for 4 hours or so and begin to look for a campsite between 1 and 2 pm. This should allow you good odds of finding a site and plenty of time to move on if there is not one available on your chosen lake - this happens although not a lot.

As mentioned previously, portages should not be looked at as an interruption or annoyance...they are part of the experience. If you double portage(take a load over the trail, return empty handed and take the final load across) it allows for a leisurely stroll back after the first trip to really see your surroundings, and take photos if you are so inclined. But portages can be physically challenging, and use muscles you may not be used to using so planning a route with an appropriate amount and difficulty is important. Basecamping has become more common as the user base of the BWCA ages because it is less physically challenging. Basically you find a site you like and stay for 2 or 3 nights and take daytrips to explore or fish, including portages, but without all of your gear except the canoe. With the length of time you have you could definitely do this a couple times but probably wouldn't want to do the whole trip that way. Travelling and seeing new areas is part of the fun too.

There are routes available that are less challenging than the Mudro or LIS route, if you are interested just let me know. But with the amount of time you have you can break up either of those routes into manageable amounts. I am excited for you and hope you have a wonderful trip. Please post a trip report upon your return, I know all of us would like to know how it went and what you thought of the place we are so passionate about. Don't hesitate to ask more questions, we love to talk about it and share our experiences.

Here's a couple samples of what you could see on the Mudro route:







Between the second and third portages north from Mudro towards Fourtown...at the far end of this little waterway is the end of the last portage. Just a puddle jump.







View from our campsite on Gun Lake







Otters on the portage from Fourtown to Boot







Wake up view on our last morning at a site on Fourtown lake







Evening view from our site on Fourtown
 
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