I'd like to put float bags in my Northstar Phoenix solo (white gold with wood gunnels). Had I known that the boat could have been ordered, ready to lace, with aluminum, I would have probably just done that. But now, I'm trying to find the best way to have front and rear bags for river trips.

Initially, I found the idea of lacing with holes in the hull to be too intimidating, but I'm coming around to it. This seems like the most elegant way to accomplish things, but what should I know before I get the drill out?

Thanks for any help,
Adam

I recently laced a kevlar prism, with no issues. Just use a good, sharp bit. I didn't need to do it, but it might not hurt to use a block of wood to press against the opposite side of the bit. This should minimize risk of tear out, which are likely slim anyhow.

I don't know the gunwales on the Phoenix, but with Wenonah aluminum channel gunwales you can drill a hole on the underside of the inside of the gunwale, and install a short nylon web loop with a pop rivet. Then you can lace the loop with cord. Use with an additional washer or big head pop rivets to keep the nylon secure. I melt holes in the nylon with a soldering iron, or you can heat up a nail.

Here's another option that you might consider.

justpaddlin: "Here's another option that you might consider.
"

I installed D-rings on a previous boat using the same method I described, and they rusted over the years. Something to consider.

MReid: "

justpaddlin: "Here's another option that you might consider.
"

I installed D-rings on a previous boat using the same method I described, and they rusted over the years. Something to consider."

The D-rings on my Merlin II are some sort of tough plastic and they're installed using the stainless steel screws that hold the gunnels together, so no rust after almost 20 years.

or install some small padeyes under the inwales

Too bad the Bell/Northwind built in floatation is so puny. The older bell end tanks had much more volume.

For your case, I say it depends on the need. If it’s only for flat water travel, eyelets to the inwale are fine.

Other hand if this is for river travel with current an issue, I say drill the sides and glass in a loop on the hull floor. This is what Kaz does for his composite whitewater hulls (Millbrook Boats). Here is a picture of his with two outfitted boats (hope he doesn’t mind). If you’re leaning this way let me know and I can take some close up pictures of my Millbrook to show more detail.

Drilling holes thru the lamination right below the gunwales is the easiest option. Other good options have been suggested. If you'd like to glue something in and not mess with the gunwales or hull, check out our Daisy Chains - under Canoe Gear on our website.

At Bell we did a beautiful curved air chamber with a tank plug. The rubber tank plug is needed to manage pressure and temperature differences. Why'd we change? After seeing many old Bells with open holes and missing tank plugs we decided to make a change. The new smaller tanks are filled with a marine grade grow foam = no way to fail. Our tanks are smaller, but always reliable. Many people also enjoy the additional space created by eliminating the air tanks. Neither the old nor the new tanks are suitable for moving water, both are designed to adequately float the canoe on lakes.

I’ll take some closer pictures please. My IXP Phoenix is on order and will be arriving soon. Thanks!

Bearpaulsen: "At Bell we did a beautiful curved air chamber with a tank plug. The rubber tank plug is needed to manage pressure and temperature differences. Why'd we change? After seeing many old Bells with open holes and missing tank plugs we decided to make a change. The new smaller tanks are filled with a marine grade grow foam = no way to fail. Our tanks are smaller, but always reliable. Many people also enjoy the additional space created by eliminating the air tanks. Neither the old nor the new tanks are suitable for moving water, both are designed to adequately float the canoe on lakes. "

Thank you Bear for that rundown. Makes sense and gives good perspective.

For those of us with the old air chambers, are plug replacements available?

Bradv: "I’ll take some closer pictures please. My IXP Phoenix is on order and will be arriving soon. Thanks!"

Here are some closer pics of the Millbrook bag cages. Hope this helps.

Thank you Kona. It looks like it’s simple paracord loops. A very practical solution. I really appreciate you taking the time to answer the post.

Hi guys - Northstar sells a whitewater eyelet kit. It comes with little plastic loops and rivets. You drill out some of the existing blind rivets that hold on the gunnels and then install the loops using the provided pop rivets. No need to drill any new holes in the hull. You still have to attach a glued-in anchor point on the bottom of the hull.

Installation video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZhGDrzuP9U

kona: "
For those of us with the old air chambers, are plug replacements available?
"

I checked with Northstar last year and the answer is no.

I bought a similar size plug at the hardware store and drilled a hole in it. Rubber is difficult to drill. Probably easier to run a hot wire through it.