Better may not be the right term...more specialized is more accurate.

A couple weeks ago I was paddling Lake Superior and had the opportunity to test me and my gear paddling through severe condition pan ice. I didn't have to go into it...but I did. Me and my Kruger Sea Wind did good, my ZRE racing paddle did not.

I was impressed with the strength of the shaft- it did not break. However, the blade edge became wore out so now the two blade faces are separating from the foam core. So now is the perfect opportunity to try to improve it while I'm fixing it. Nothing against the ZRE quality- they're made to be light weight. I have not seen any paddle out there built for ice paddling. I want one that can! My wood ones shred... The rock guards on Bending Branches paddles are not strong enough...

Looking for any good ideas before I start the upgrade. My plan is to cut off 1/2" of the blade edge, hollow out some of the remaining foam core enough to slide in epoxy (West Systems epoxy) soaked felt that will extend out and replace the blade I cut away. This will be the ice guard. While the ice guard is still not cured, I will laminate a piece of carbon fabric on both paddle faces from the shaft down to within a 1/4" of the new ice guard. After curing, I will sand the ice guard into it's final thickness and shape.

The goal is create a strong edge for smashing ice or rocks that will not easily snap off- it has to be incorporated into the blade. Oh, and I still need the paddle to be pretty lightweight.

Any suggestions regarding design, material choice, or other advice welcome.

I’m thinking you need a carbon fiber shaft with a titanium blade. Or maybe just a titanium paddle. Also, serrations on the blade for sawing ice.

But more seriously, I was sort of expecting you to be incorporating a metal blade guard around the edge.

Not as light in weight but already a niche paddle market, Fiberglass composite whitewater paddles, several other makes also made.

butthead

andym: "I’m thinking you need a carbon fiber shaft with a titanium blade. Or maybe just a titanium paddle. Also, serrations on the blade for sawing ice.


But more seriously, I was sort of expecting you to be incorporating a metal blade guard around the edge."

Serrations or spikes on the paddle would be great. Lots of times when in pan ice or skim ice, the paddle has to be used more like a push pole to get the weight of the canoe on top of the ice to break it. So being able to grip the ice would be a big bonus but, at least with some sort of epoxy impregnated fabric guard, that would concentrate a lot of force in a small spot that I think would break off.

Metal edge would be strong but could it be incorporated into the carbon material without problems. The paddle edge still needs to be thin for good clean entry into the water and all day paddling. And the edge would need to be field-repairable when it does wear or fail. Epoxy is so nice for field repair while on a trip.

I like your thinking, even when you thought you weren't serious:)

I use 2 toilet plungers, 1 in each hand. Straight shaft of course, though you could angle the shafts 10 degrees for more efficiency.

Not seeing where it's de-laminating right now. An insert of alum would be the ticket. Lay the blade over an 1/8" piece wide enough and perhaps 6" tall to comp for the curve. Trace the blade tip, then trace a 1/2" bigger . Drill 3/16th holes in the portion to be inserted, rough up with 80 grit allowing a good secondary bond. Use a good epoxy to bed it in. Don't over clamp, just snug/ even pressure; perhaps wax paper then two boards in a vise.
24 hours later you can grind or file/ sand the teeth into the edge leaving as much or little sticking out as you wish.

BeaV:
Metal edge would be strong but could it be incorporated into the carbon material without problems. The paddle edge still needs to be thin for good clean entry into the water and all day paddling. And the edge would need to be field-repairable when it does wear or fail. Epoxy is so nice for field repair while on a trip.

For a metal edge that might be integrated into the paddle, consider the metal edge of a ski--the edge has an open design that would allow epoxy to secure it, since it's glassed into the ski. You could pick up an old ski at a pawn shop/Goodwill for next to nothing. It might be tough getting the tight radius of a paddle, though. I had skis with aluminum edges way back.

BeaV: "Better may not be the right term...more specialized is more accurate.

My wood ones shred... "

I'm not a huge proponent of using exotic wood, but if you try harder wood, it may work Janka Hardness

There are a few that are 4-6 times harder then cedar- twice as hard as maple. Would want something with dense grain pattern and closed cell structure, think of maple vs oak. I'm not sure what the technical name is for the differing cell structures in wood.

In a separate build, I'm trying to make a CF paddle, but with a cedar skeleton. essentially laminate and then carve the paddle, then drill almost all of it (like swiss cheese)- don't know what weight I'll be able to get to. This will have a hardwood tip, with CF or Glass over it.

Get a ZRE Whitewater paddle. It has a much larger carbon tip and extra carbon on both sides. Keep the tip sanded so the cloth is 1/8" inch above the tip. It is much tougher than other ZRE paddles,

butthead: "Not as light in weight but already a niche paddle market, Fiberglass composite whitewater paddles, several other makes also made.


butthead"

I can vouch for the toughness of the Bandit. I'm on my 2nd in 15 years (1st was stolen from a take out) . If I have only 2 paddles, one is my 17 year old Zav and the other my Werner. And rocky Ozark streams are not an easy environment for my paddles.

I like Arcola's process.

Thanks all for the ideas, DIY and new purchase. I'll update this when I specialize my paddle.

What about adding some replaceable studs to the paddle edge. Embed some inserts along the paddle edge so you can screw in the studs and replace them as needed. My carbon arrows have inserts. Maybe experiment with carbon arrow inserts and use some ground down field points?

Could maybe even use some carbon arrow sections with the inserts. Embed the arrow sections into the paddle structure. It would be easy enough to experiment with a wooden paddle first.

HayRiverDrifter: "What about adding some replaceable studs to the paddle edge. Embed some inserts along the paddle edge so you can screw in the studs and replace them as needed. My carbon arrows have inserts. Maybe experiment with carbon arrow inserts and use some ground down field points?

Could maybe even use some carbon arrow sections with the inserts. Embed the arrow sections into the paddle structure. It would be easy enough to experiment with a wooden paddle first."

Hmmm....the field points could also then be changed to broadheads when in bad critter territory. Maybe even make the arrow shafts retractable/extendable for deeper penetration. hmmm

"The most dangerous paddle ever made"

BeaV: "

HayRiverDrifter: "What about adding some replaceable studs to the paddle edge. Embed some inserts along the paddle edge so you can screw in the studs and replace them as needed. My carbon arrows have inserts. Maybe experiment with carbon arrow inserts and use some ground down field points?


Could maybe even use some carbon arrow sections with the inserts. Embed the arrow sections into the paddle structure. It would be easy enough to experiment with a wooden paddle first."

Hmmm....the field points could also then be changed to broadheads when in bad critter territory. Maybe even make the arrow shafts retractable/extendable for deeper penetration. hmmm


"The most dangerous paddle ever made""

A concentric inner shaft with elongated lobes similar to a lobes on a camshaft could give you retractable points with a twist of the paddle sections in opposite directions. Or a flame thrower on one end attached to a gas line exiting the mid section of the paddle and connected to a propane tank in a bear barrel harness on your back would allow you to melt the ice as you go, also great for making a smores for a mid lake snack.
But then again you could bring two paddles one for open water and one heavy duty for breaking ice as needed.
Nothing like getting a run and getting on top of the ice and having it not break, no way to paddle, not thick enough to walk on, I bring a 2 foot piece of 1" conduit that I can poke a hole with and push back off....

Update-

I decided to stick with my plan plus adding carbon arrows into the blade per HayRiverDrifter.

Last Friday I purchased some carbon and Kevlar fabrics and then went to an archery place for arrows. The custom archery shop guys gave me some funny looks as I was telling them the arrows were for making a canoe paddle.

I've never worked with carbon or Kevlar fabrics before so I decided to use my Bending Branches Black Pearl paddle for the guinea pig. Saturday I installed a felt rock guard and epoxied one layer of carbon on both paddle faces. Overnight cure and then cut and sanded the blade back to shape on Sunday. Turned out really good.

So, with more confidence now, I went to work on my prototype ZRE ice paddle. Removed some of the blade for room to install the felt edge, epoxied one layer of carbon on the back face of the blade, epoxied 2 layers of felt on the edge previously removed, and laid this into a mold to keep all this in shape as I worked on the power face of the blade. Picture attached showing this.

On the power face, I placed four carbon arrow shafts, one layer of Kevlar, and a second layer of carbon. Picture attached showing this. Waiting for cure now.

BeaV
I'm so curious how this turns out. Love the innovation!

Are you using straight target shooting tips or the sort of bladed tips shown by HayRiverDrifter? I'm thinking that the straight tips may affect the hydrodynamics less and you won't have any issues if the blades are not all rotated the same with respect to the edge of the paddle.

But the blades could be better for fending off bigfoot.

andym- I've got field tips screwed in right now...you can see them if you zoom in. These tips are threaded so I could upgrade to cutting blades if necessary. But for pushing through ice and general paddling.....field tips are best.

Seriously though....neither blade style on this prototype self defense paddle would have much affect on an enraged bigfoot.

I see now. Looks good.

To combat bigfoot, I think you need to make it possible to fire the arrow tips, possibly with a taser attachment. Or just make friends by offering some hot cocoa.

Are you using this paddle in the Challenge? It could be devastating on canoes trying to pass you. I needn't worry.

BeaV: "andym- I've got field tips screwed in right now...you can see them if you zoom in. These tips are threaded so I could upgrade to cutting blades if necessary. But for pushing through ice and general paddling.....field tips are best.


Seriously though....neither blade style on this prototype self defense paddle would have much affect on an enraged bigfoot."

Very cool - interested to see how this turns out.

And you may already know this, but there are several different field point designs...the ones you are using are, I think, the pointiest/sharpest ones. Which may well be exactly what you want for this application.

It also occurs to me that your paddle may hold up to abuse better with the arrow side facing back vs forward...but I could be wrong.

Good luck!

Ice paddle is complete. The pics don't really show which side of the former ZRE bent shaft is the power face (the side that get pulled toward me). The arrows are on the power face as I think this will give the blade the most strength.

The paddle is now 6 ounces heavier coming in at 16 ounces.

Awesome job Bev!!!! That should do the job for sure. Hope you post after you give it a workout.

Supercool.

voyager: "Are you using this paddle in the Challenge? It could be devastating on canoes trying to pass you. I needn't worry."

Nope, no need to worry. I'll leave it at home in September...unless there is an outbreak of otter attacks in the BWCA this year.

When does the " Beaver Foot " paddle go into production? I'm interested in how the ridges would affect it's performance in "soft water". Flutter, more cavitation? I know that's not the intended use. Was wondering about a ridge only on the 2 edges, would it lock on the water like my wing kayak paddle, which I love.

voyager: "I'm interested in how the ridges would affect it's performance in "soft water". Flutter, more cavitation? I know that's not the intended use. "

Ya, I'm really curious too, to feel how it strokes.

I'm hoping for some strong easterly winds to break up the ice that has been growing on the north shore of Lake Superior. Then I'll get the chance to get in the ice. Otherwise, I'll take it with me to Florida just to get it in the water. I'll definitely report back once I use it.

Production? Hmmm...I think the market for this is pretty slim.

BeaV- if the paddle paddles well without a lot of a cavitation etc... it could be used with broadheads on the Fowl Portage as a machete.... For longer - bushier - ports; just mount it on the front of the canoe for some serious brush cutting. For sustenance on a long tandem trip it could even be used as a spear for fish/game and even to prog a lazy paddler in the bow that BeaV means business!!!

WhiteWolf: "BeaV- if the paddle paddles well without a lot of a cavitation etc... it could be used with broadheads on the Fowl Portage as a machete.... For longer - bushier - ports; just mount it on the front of the canoe for some serious brush cutting. For sustenance on a long tandem trip it could even be used as a spear for fish/game and even to prog a lazy paddler in the bow that BeaV means business!!!"

Oh oh Kendra!

WhiteWolf: "BeaV- if the paddle paddles well without a lot of a cavitation etc... it could be used with broadheads on the Fowl Portage as a machete.... For longer - bushier - ports; just mount it on the front of the canoe for some serious brush cutting. For sustenance on a long tandem trip it could even be used as a spear for fish/game and even to prog a lazy paddler in the bow that BeaV means business!!!"

Jeff, You better find him some open "ice" water to test this new design. BeaV might have to go south a couple of days early to make a stop and paddle the ice in Iowa or Illinois.

Chuck at spring creek made some innovative ways for his employee Dan to get off his island on Lake Vermilion and get to work. Now he’s the employee... but I could ask about his contraptions.

Whitewolf- like you, I have all kinds of potential additions and improvements to this paddle. A salmon spear was one of them!

nctry- any ideas for a better contraption welcomed! Heck, who'd of thought I would of used the arrow idea?

Look up Texalium made by Hexel.

It’s 50/50 fiberglass aluminum cloth. Would make excellent tip material.

BeaV, I hope this is for your winter Lake Superior paddling which is crazy enough and not you turning into Will Steiger with the North Pole in your sights.