I have started slip bobber fishing a lot more the last couple years. I have heard and seen of a lot of different set ups for this. I was curious to poll this forum to see what everyone's preferences are for this fish catching method.

I have typically just used a single hook, a couple beads, a small blade, and a split shot 18" up. The beads and small blade were a more recent upgrade. I haven't noticed a huge uptick, but it seems like this setup produces a little better.

I have heard of people using egg/barrell sinkers, rubber core/ clinch, the split shot weights I use, and other things.

The one I am the most curious about is those that use a 1/4 or 1/8 oz. jig head for both the weight and hook. I feel like this would affect more finicky bites. Has anyone fished them side by side with another setup.

I'm just curious what people's thoughts are. I'm open to trying something new, but just wanted to poll the experts. I don't love the split shots as they "weaken" the line some but didn't like any of the other options I tried. I have not had many break offs but enough to wonder some about the weight systems.

For me, the line up is: hook, crimp-on sinker, bobber, bead, knot.

I may have tried a jig in place of the hook, but don't think it would be as effective as that wiggly leech on a light hook. And I've never worried about weakening the line with a crimped sinker. I usually an using 8lb test.

I first experience with a slip bobber: As I set the depth and was adjusting the knot location over the side of the boat, I noticed my bobber was gone. Pulled in a 26" walleye. I've been 'hooked' on slip bobbers since!

If you don't want to use a crimp split shot for fear of weakening line.
I use a small rubber core. The only drawback is, you need to check it, to make sure it is still attached properly to your line. They have a tendency to fly off when your making a cast.

For a hook, I use a plain hook, 1/16 oz. jig, or maybe a 1/8 oz jig. Never anything heavier then 1/4 oz. when slip bobbering. Next is appropriate size split shot, then the bobber. Above the bobber I use a bead, then above the bead goes the dogbone depth adjuster. Never had a problem with this set up.

walllee: "For a hook, I use a plain hook, 1/16 oz. jig, or maybe a 1/8 oz jig. Never anything heavier then 1/4 oz. when slip bobbering. Next is appropriate size split shot, then the bobber. Above the bobber I use a bead, then above the bead goes the dogbone depth adjuster. Never had a problem with this set up."

x2

Plain hook for me, though jigs work, too. I like red gamagatsus, sometimes other colors. I use either rubber core sinkers or an egg sinker above a swivel. I've busted a couple off at the split shot; NOT cool. Get a steelhead or other long rod; the big long sweep takes up tons of slack and sets the heck out of it.

The lightest jig you can get away with. It all depends on depth, current, and wind.

My second go to is a plain #6 or #4 hook with a split shot ~8 in' up from the hook... Just make sure to check it frequently as a lively leech can swim up and tangle/slim up around your line.

Good point about the leech that can tangle/slime up your line! This is a common occurrence. When slip bobbering, I usually move my rig 2-3 feet every 15 seconds or so. That covers more area with my bait and gets me looking at the rig frequently.

If you are in brush or snaggy areas, put a swivel in, followed by an egg sinker then your bobber and stop. I will have a 2-3' leader with either a plain hook or a small jig. I pour my own jigs(1/16 or 1/32) so I can put in the hook size I want.

Jon Thelen and others strongly recommend always using a swivel when slip fishing with leeches. Pink or chartreuse colored hooks are great for stained water, and short shanked 1/8 or 3/16 jigs replace hook/sinkers nicely when eyes are suspended or feeding on minnows up in the water column. I use brightly colored mono with flouro leader under the swivel, easy to keep track of fine when distracted by other tasks.

Swivel at the hook? Barrel swivel, snap swivel?

Bead, bobber stop, Thill balsa bobber, split shot, plain hook, leech. You have to match the size of the split shot to the bobber. Add just enough to get the bobber to float. You just want about 1/4 of the bobber above the water line. This is so the Walleye won’t feel too much bobber and spit it out.

bobbernumber3: "Swivel at the hook? Barrel swivel, snap swivel?"

Barrel swivel below bobber and above weights. I just tie a few lengths of flouro to various hooks/jigs and have them handy to switch. From the top down I have stopknot, bead, Thill float, bead, barrel swivel, flouro leader, heaviest weight, lighter weight hook. Use 2 weights 6 inches apart, allows for cast without tangling. Minnows don’t require barrel swivel but you get a lot of line twisting with leeches. Skip the swivel and eventually you lose that 28 inch eye to a line twist Knick near a weight.

AmarilloJim: "If you are in brush or snaggy areas, put a swivel in, followed by an egg sinker then your bobber and stop. I will have a 2-3' leader with either a plain hook or a small jig. I pour my own jigs(1/16 or 1/32) so I can put in the hook size I want."

Good tip. I can see this working well while casting from camp... Especially when you're doing stuff around the campsite. When the bobber drifts inward and gets too shallow/topples over, you are still fishing and hopefully less likely to snag when you reel in.

illini79ps: "

bobbernumber3: "Swivel at the hook? Barrel swivel, snap swivel?"

Barrel swivel below bobber and above weights. I just tie a few lengths of flouro to various hooks/jigs and have them handy to switch. From the top down I have stopknot, bead, Thill float, bead, barrel swivel, flouro leader, heaviest weight, lighter weight hook. Use 2 weights 6 inches apart, allows for cast without tangling. Minnows don’t require barrel swivel but you get a lot of line twisting with leeches. Skip the swivel and eventually you lose that 28 inch eye to a line twist Knick near a weight."

^ +1

I have often seen line twisting (usually when trolling) when I add a second sinker. I can't say I've seen line twisting when using a slip bobber. I often take off several feet of line at the end of each day to eliminate nicks, kinks, and abrasions. I'm keeping my slip bobber rig as light as possible... no swivel, no 2nd sinker.

A lot of great responses. It is interesting to hear. Why would you use a jig and a split shot? I thought the point of using a jig would be so that you didn't have to add extra weight.

The multiple weights set ups are interesting. I should have listed my set up more thoroughly:
slip not, bead, thill float, snap swivel, split shot, then 1 or 2 red beads and a small blade above the hook.

No one else likes beads or tiny blades above the hook? I feel like it helps some in my experiences, a little extra color and flutter.

I was mostly curious about those who just use jigs as the hook and weight. Just seems like the walleye would feel that extra weight when they take the leech into their mouth. If they are feeding aggressively it probably wouldn't matter but was just curious.

I try to use the lightest Thill float that will stay up depending on the wind. I prefer the "standard" float to the wobble bobber and have never had an issue casting out far enough.

If I am fishing in weeds, near wood or in stained water like BWCA I use a 1/16 or 1/8 pink jig with a short hook tipped with a leech. I find the leech gets far less tangled and doesn't grab onto weeds as much when attached to a jig vs hook. In the stained water I have just had more luck with the color vs a red hook. Haven't used a pink hook yet so I have to look into that.

If fishing around rocks, over sand or flats I stick with Fluorocarbon leader off the swivel and attach a split shot to the fluoro. Never had a issue with it weakening the leader.

I've also had quite a bit of success in spring, fishing in 5-10 ft of water with short weed growth using shiners hooked through the tail on a floating hook. IDK why but it seems like I get better action out of the minnow when it has that buoyancy trying to keep it up. Just need to check the minnow every 5 minutes to make sure still alive otherwise this is worthless