I thought that this might be of interest to anyone who has an interest in stowing a coiled painter line on top of the flotation chambers using the vent plug.
This provides a low profile and secure place to coil the painter without drilling any holes.
I used the loop portion of a 3/4” Mini Hangman Swivel Hook as the loop to attach the shock cord. An eyebolt would work as well.

Materials:
2 loops cut from the snaphook
2 snap hooks
2 #8 machine screw, 2”, stainless
2 #8 stop nut, stainless
2 #8 washer, stainless
2 lengths of 1/8” shock cord
2 Zip Clips or other cord end
2 cord locks

Run the bolt through the hole in the plastic loop, then through the hole in the vent plug, add washer and nut. Do not over tighten so that the venting is still functional.
Reinstall the plug, add the loop of shock cord, clip the snap hook to the free end of the shock cord and attach the cord around the rope.
Pretty simple and easily removed.
By the way, this was done on a Wenonah MN II.

Neat idea, but I have a question - Doesn't the screw prevent the vent plug from working as intended?

With the stop nut, you can tighten the machine screw just enough so that it still swivels in the vent hole and not come loose. The machine screw’s diameter is less than the vent hole. Is there a smaller hole for equalization? Yes. But, it should still be big enough to equalize any gradual changes in air pressure. Very abrupt changes in pressure might be a diiferent story.

I only rent my canoes currently but I find securing the painter to the bar you show it larks headed around with a Bungee Dealee Bob works well. The bundle is big enough to wedge it between the bar and flotation chamber so it’s not flopping around. Never had any issues with it getting in the way or snagging on portages.

Can you explain the purpose of a painter line? I'm not familiar with it or why I might want to use one.

Anchored up this high on the boat the lines are more for tying it up or using an anchor. "Real" painter lines are nearly at the waterline and could be used for lining a boat through rough water while along the shore. This high up all they'd do is tip the boat to the side it's pulled from. Could be used in a pinch for rescue but again, would cause the boat to lean towards the side it's being pulled from.

dcandta2014: "With the stop nut, you can tighten the machine screw just enough so that it still swivels in the vent hole and not come loose. The machine screw’s diameter is less than the vent hole. Is there a smaller hole for equalization? Yes. But, it should still be big enough to equalize any gradual changes in air pressure. Very abrupt changes in pressure might be a diiferent story."

I see that now. Neat idea & glad it works for you. The best part of owning a canoe is customizing it to your own needs & taste. :-)

You'll rarely if ever get a chance to use painter lines in the BW. Other places they're a great asset. However people going solo will most certainly want a line to hold onto while exiting the canoe in not so nice landings. This idea is good for that.

Blatz: "You'll rarely if ever get a chance to use painter lines in the BW. Other places they're a great asset. However people going solo will most certainly want a line to hold onto while exiting the canoe in not so nice landings. This idea is good for that."

This is primarily why I bring one or two and bdb them into my rented canoes. Second reason is to secure the canoe in camp when storms with high winds are in the forecast. And thirdly, luckily only needed once so far, to tow out an empty canoe when the other half of the party got med evaced in USFS float plane!

But if I ever get around to buying a canoe I would certainly mount them lower as Mirth describes.

Blatz: "You'll rarely if ever get a chance to use painter lines in the BW. Other places they're a great asset. However people going solo will most certainly want a line to hold onto while exiting the canoe in not so nice landings. This idea is good for that."

Dreaded double post...