BWCA Sep 18 First solo, need route advice Boundary Waters Group Forum: Solo Tripping
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LobTrees
member (11)member
  
07/16/2019 09:29PM  
I am planning my first solo BWCA trip for September 18th-21st. This will only be my second trip, and my first time paddling a solo canoe. I want to stick to small water and plan to spend 3-4 nights total. I will do some fishing, but i mostly want to paddle and take in the sights, low pressure schedule in an area that gives me lots of options.
My current plan:
Day 1: Enter Kiwishiwi Lake to Malberg
Day 2: Malberg to Louse River/Wine Lake/Dent Lake
Day 3: ? explore the lakes to the north?
Day 4: Exit Sawbill

I am open to any ideas, favorite routes. Give me your thoughts.
 
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07/17/2019 07:54AM  
I don't know you or your experience and capabilities beyond the fact that it's your second BW trip and first time paddling a solo canoe, so it's hard to know what to say about it.

Just given those facts, I'd think it could be a "challenging" trip; for me it wouldn't be a low pressure schedule given the territory and some of the portages. Tell us about the first trip and other experience.

Will you single portage or double portage? Either way, do you think the daily travel mileage will be reasonable for you? Do you think you'll pick up on the solo paddling quickly enough to travel efficiently? Do you have an alternate plan if needed?

If you single portage (28 portages, not including beaver dam pullovers), you've got about 30 miles, 42 if double portage. It may be difficult for you to average any more than 2 mph traveling, so 3 14-mile days would be around 7 hours. Low water may be a problem on the Louse River in late Sept. and I believe you'll be going upstream. Daylight is short that time of year - between 12-13 hours. And remember on a solo you do all the camp chores. Weather is variable, but you have an extra weather day if that travel plan works for you.

Hope you have a good trip.



 
Minnesotian
distinguished member(2313)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
07/17/2019 08:19AM  

That is a challenging route. I did it with two friends back in 2010. We left Sawbill and did a loop via the Louse River back to Sawbill. By far the hardest part was the Louse River.

Two things struck me as I remembered that route...
1. After leaving Boze Lake heading east, the Louse River got really screwy. At one point we landed, thinking we found the portage. However, it wasn't. We ended up bushwacking a small portion to the real portage. So, stay alert during that section.

2. When we were there, it was around August 12, because we wanted to see the Perseid Meteor Shower. I remember paddling down Bug Lake and getting back onto the Louse River again heading east. Right at that junction the lily pads were the thickest I have ever encountered before and since. That section really slowed us down and tired us out. So expect some delay through there.

Those are the two big things I can remember. It is one of the more remote areas in the BWCA, so in September you might not see anyone. The Wine Lake island campsite is phenomenal, that's were we had a layover day and watched the most amazing display of Perseid's I have ever seen.

The 460 rod portage from Zenith isn't very hilly, just long with a slightly wet/boggy section in there.

Have a good time. Frankly, if it was my first solo trip, I would look at doing a different route. A suggestion: look at the Temperance River route. It's a loop from Sawbill, heading up to Cherokee, then back via the Temperance River to Sawbill.

Whatever you choose, it will be great though because you'll be soloing. Enjoy!
 
LobTrees
member (11)member
  
07/17/2019 11:59AM  
Thanks Boonie. I am going to change my route based on the comments that I received. My first trip was a tow-in to bottle portage from crane lake, base-camped and fished Iron for three days and spent two days paddling out via LLC/Agnes/Nina Moose River. I was with another newbie and two highly experienced BDubbers. We paddled 3’ rollers on LLC, Blowdown storms on Iron, double portaged the 200rod to Stuart River instead of Agnes- and I got beaver fever when I returned home. It was awesome.

I am open to any part of the BWCA and would love any suggestions for a better route. My main concern is the solo paddling, I realize I won’t be able to achieve the miles I did on my last trip. I will need to rent a solo canoe so any advice there would also be appreciated.
 
07/17/2019 12:22PM  
Kawishiwi Lake is a great EP. You may want to consider going up to Malberg and base camp there. Then paddle back out to the way you came. It is a nice paddle both ways. Good fishing in the Malberg area and plenty of day trip options. Fishdance for picto's, Paddle up the Louse. Beaver and Adams area.
 
treehorn
distinguished member(715)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
07/17/2019 03:50PM  
Check this out, as an idea. This is my trip report from my first solo last year...like you, it was my first time paddling or camping solo. I had a few more trips than you under my belt with groups, but not even 10 or more.

I went in EP 44 Ram Lake, with my exit destination being 47, 48 or 49 to Poplar Lake. You could also use EP 45 and the same exit.

You have many different options as to how to get back to Poplar from those entry points. You can travel far out west and back if you want to stay on the move, or easily make it from either EP to Poplar in 3-4 days in a more direct route. Most lakes around are small, with the exception of Winchell and maybe Gaskin. There is some tough portaging, but since you said your main concern was paddling solo, I'm assuming you're in decent shape. I did the toughest portage in there (Little Trout to Misquah) and consider it very doable for anyone in good shape.

You start on Poplar at Rockwoods and have them drive you to either EP in the morning, then just make your way back to their location however you see fit.
 
07/17/2019 10:42PM  
2 years ago we did Wine to Malberg on the Louse. It is a rugged, sometimes confusing route compared to how it looks on paper. We were spent when we got to Malberg. It was a long, tough day. I like Kawishiwi entry.....maybe go up to Adams, Boulder....east to Hoe, Pan, back to Malberg to complete the loop. Still decent seclusion in that area.
 
07/18/2019 05:40AM  
Kawishiwi would be a good entry for you. You can play it by ear since there are so many unknowns. An out and back route will be easier to handle on your first solo - you'll know when you're halfway and what you face to get out, plus there will be no complicating logistics of shuttles. You can stop on Polly if you feel like it or keep going to Koma or Malberg. If you double portage, it's 8-9 miles and about 4 hours to Polly, or 13-14 to Malberg. You can stay on either and day trip to various places, or go to Beaver or Adams, or a short trip out the Louse River. You could daytrip out the Lady Chain. A trip with options like this will give you flexibility to adjust on the fly to how things are going, as well as the weather. Wind can be a difficulty solo. Be sure to read up on trimming a solo canoe in the wind.

A good place to rent a canoe if you go in Kawishiwi is Sawtooth Outfitters, which is right at the corner of Rt. 61 and the Sawbill Trail. BTW, you can pick up the permit there.

Other possibilities are an entry like Lizz off of Poplar Lake, with several loop options. If you stay at Rockwood bunkhouse, you can just paddle away from there in the morning. There are several loop options of various lengths there.

You could also enter at Cross Bay with several options out and back or short loops. FYI, it's easy to enter there and exit at Round Lake or vice versa - a short walk (1/2 mile?) between.
 
Michwall2
distinguished member(1447)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
07/18/2019 06:51AM  
LobTrees: "I am planning my first solo BWCA trip for September 18th-21st. This will only be my second trip, and my first time paddling a solo canoe. I want to stick to small water and plan to spend 3-4 nights total. I will do some fishing, but i mostly want to paddle and take in the sights, low pressure schedule in an area that gives me lots of options.
My current plan:
Day 1: Enter Kiwishiwi Lake to Malberg
Day 2: Malberg to Louse River/Wine Lake/Dent Lake
Day 3: ? explore the lakes to the north?
Day 4: Exit Sawbill

I am open to any ideas, favorite routes. Give me your thoughts. "


1. Kawishiwi to Malberg is a long day.
2. Malberg to Dent or Wine would be an excruciatingly long day. As has been mentioned, going east on the Louse has the most challenging route finding. (Going west is easier.). Make sure to talk to Sawbill Outfitter about the route because beavers change this one all the time. I would break this portion of the trip in 2 and stop on Trail Lake for a night.
3. I have spent some time on Wine Lake (it is beautiful) and Mesaba is one of my favorites. anywhere in the BW
4. Start early on your exit to Sawbill. The Zenith/Lujenida portage is just long. Stock up on water before you get started.

In my opinion, while it can be done (on paper), this is a very aggressively planned trip. You could easily find yourself running out of daylight, especially trying to go from Malberg to Wine or Dent.

The Kawishiwi entry is probably my most often used entry. I like the river paddle to start the trip. Malberg Lake is a true crossroads of the BW. You have options for travel in many directions. I would think strongly of doing a basecamp there and then day tripping out to other parts of the BW. You can get a strong sense of what the Louse River would be like by day tripping to Boze and Frond Lakes. A visit to the pictographs on Fishdance Lake takes a day. (Be sure to walk the beautiful portage along side the Kawishiwi River as it heads to Alice Lake and or visit Amber Lake) . Travel the loop to Boulder/Adams Lakes in a very little visited part of the BW. Or head north to Makwa Lake to take in the huge cliffs there.

My other suggestion for you is to do the Lady Lakes Chain back to Sawbill. It has much of the river paddling of the Louse River without some of the route finding challenges. Go to Polly for the first night. Day trip to Malberg for day 2, Go to Grace for day 3. Out to Sawbill for day 4.

Have a great trip!
 
07/19/2019 05:51AM  
LobTrees-

A couple of [non-route] suggestions:

Take both a single blade and double blade paddle with you to see which you prefer for paddling the solo. It's a good idea to have a spare paddle strapped to the thwarts anyway.

Browse through the solo tripping forum for lots of different ideas about the various aspects of solo tripping - canoes, paddles, trim, portaging, food, equipment, etc.
 
MidwestFirecraft
distinguished member(913)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
07/19/2019 07:29AM  
LobTrees,
I would highly recommend paddling a solo canoe before your trip. At the very least as suggested above a kayak paddle could be very helpful. Dedicated solo canoes are narrow, and paddling in the center changes everything.
"We paddled 3’ rollers on LLC, Blowdown storms on Ironor anything like it."
You may already be aware of this, but it is worth mentioning. The water and the days could be cool, if you tip when solo in the middle of a lake it could be very bad, so weather becomes a much bigger factor when solo. I mention this so loved ones would know you might be delayed because of weather. I was shocked at how "tippy" my magic, or phoenix solo canoes were compared to tandems.
 
07/19/2019 08:36AM  
Just so you know . . .

The best way to get in the solo is to grasp each gunwale, put your foot in directly on the center line while keeping your center of gravity low, sit down, lift other leg in. On the solo canoes, initial stability is a little less, but final stability is good. Always keep your body vertical and shoulders between the gunwales.

Also, in case you don't know . . . you'll have to attach and detach the yoke at each portage since it goes on the balance point right in front of the seat. I attach it to the thwart behind the seat with a 4-foot piece of paracord. You'll also need to bring your own painters for the canoe. Make sure it's well secured at night and at any portage where it might drift away while you're unloading. Wading out waist deep or swimming after it is not the way to do it ;).
 
07/19/2019 12:40PM  
another vote for the Lady Chain. West end is a little tougher and more quiet.....east end get busier as you get closer to Alton. Phoebe is a gorgeous lake IMO.
Take your time and enjoy. Polly night one.....down to Phoebe for 2 days......out to Beth or Alton for last night....short paddle out to Sawbill last day.
 
LobTrees
member (11)member
  
07/21/2019 08:49PM  
minnmike: " Kawishiwi Lake is a great EP. You may want to consider going up to Malberg and base camp there. Then paddle back out to the way you came. It is a nice paddle both ways. Good fishing in the Malberg area and plenty of day trip options. Fishdance for picto's, Paddle up the Louse. Beaver and Adams area. "


Thanks MinnMike, I am definitely changing my plan. Haven't heard a bad thing about Malberg.
 
LobTrees
member (11)member
  
07/21/2019 08:56PM  
cowdoc: "another vote for the Lady Chain. West end is a little tougher and more quiet.....east end get busier as you get closer to Alton. Phoebe is a gorgeous lake IMO.
Take your time and enjoy. Polly night one.....down to Phoebe for 2 days......out to Beth or Alton for last night....short paddle out to Sawbill last day."


This is my route, i have read a bunch of trip reports after reading everyone's suggestions. It seems like a good place for me to start and will have a lot of options.
 
LobTrees
member (11)member
  
07/21/2019 08:59PM  
boonie: "Just so you know . . .


The best way to get in the solo is to grasp each gunwale, put your foot in directly on the center line while keeping your center of gravity low, sit down, lift other leg in. On the solo canoes, initial stability is a little less, but final stability is good. Always keep your body vertical and shoulders between the gunwales.


Also, in case you don't know . . . you'll have to attach and detach the yoke at each portage since it goes on the balance point right in front of the seat. I attach it to the thwart behind the seat with a 4-foot piece of paracord. You'll also need to bring your own painters for the canoe. Make sure it's well secured at night and at any portage where it might drift away while you're unloading. Wading out waist deep or swimming after it is not the way to do it ;). "


Boonie, thanks for the advice, I intend to bring both a single and double blade. I can't say enough about this website and the people on here. Every bit of advice is appreciated. I intend to take notes so i can put together a trip report when i return. I am planning on doing the lady chain route back to Sawbill. From what i am reading it will be low pressure, do you have any experience with that route?
I think i am set for painters, what type of cordage do you use for yours?
 
LobTrees
member (11)member
  
07/21/2019 09:06PM  
MidwestFirecraft: "LobTrees,
I would highly recommend paddling a solo canoe before your trip. At the very least as suggested above a kayak paddle could be very helpful. Dedicated solo canoes are narrow, and paddling in the center changes everything.
"We paddled 3’ rollers on LLC, Blowdown storms on Ironor anything like it."
You may already be aware of this, but it is worth mentioning. The water and the days could be cool, if you tip when solo in the middle of a lake it could be very bad, so weather becomes a much bigger factor when solo. I mention this so loved ones would know you might be delayed because of weather. I was shocked at how "tippy" my magic, or phoenix solo canoes were compared to tandems. "


Thanks Midwest Firecraft,I am planning on getting out before my trip, I will have an opportunity in early August to paddle for a few hours solo. My last trip was in the first week of September so i got a taste of the unpredictable weather and the wind was unbelievable, we were fortunate that we wernt delayed. I will likely be renting an inreach to keep it cool at home. I am definitely going to bring a kayak paddle.
 
07/22/2019 05:52AM  
I haven't done the Lady Chain, although it's on my list. The only part I can tell you about is up to Polly, which is pretty straightforward. The portage out of Square really is there - just keep going around that corner ;). A beaver dam or two last time I went through in 2016, very short paddle between the last two portages - basically like one single portage. It's 8 miles to Polly (double portaging), 9 miles to N end, about 4 hours. I think the Lady Chain route you're doing is about 30 miles, so should be relaxed.

The Lady Chain was a short alternative on our 2014 trip through Little Sag and out at Sawbill, but with a good weather report and plenty of time, we took the longer loop. I just use some kind of 3/8" marine/dock line I bought at Walmart. It was 50' and I just cut in half.
 
07/22/2019 01:08PM  
Beware of the dreaded rock garden on the phoebe river between Hazel and Knight. There is a man made channel through it......way to the left. (east side) Look on Google maps and you will see it. If you miss the channel, you will be walking your canoe through slippery, ankle twisting, basketball and bigger sized rocks in thigh deep water.
 
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