BWCA 1st Timer from Missouri: Retirement Trip Boundary Waters Trip Planning Forum
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Mark1
member (50)member
  
07/30/2019 06:04PM  
Just retired school teacher, Ste. Genevieve MO, BWCA forum member for a couple years, as I have been planning/wishing on a trip to the Great Northwoods for a couple years. I've mostly read others post trying to gather info and decide on a plan. I've asked a few questions and one very similar to this one a year or so ago (but only got a few suggestions and now I can't find that info. So please help if you can, and please stick to my -meaning, I'm not going to do the "pure experience" of multi day/multi portage/multi lake experience - I still do overnighters on Missouri Ozark streams, but I'm not in the best of shape anymore.

So here's what I am looking for...thinking of heading out after Labor Day, I am camping out of my pickup truck and under no time constraints, thinking along lines of 2-3 weeks. Foremost, of course, is I want to camp on water's edge somewhere where a novice can catch fish, as I've never caught a walleye, pike, muskie, (I'm a bait chucker HA for trout, bluegill, crappie, bass, and cats).

Secondmost - I'm cheap LOL - I amazed there is not more FREE drive up camping places and paying $25-30 to pitch a tent at a resort will add up for an extended trip. My previous request for places did mention a few promising spots and I need to find that thread, but I could use all the free or cheap places to camp I can get. Also I love to stream fish, and one guy gave me a tip on a stream with a little known camping spot
underneath a bridge on a hwy (AND IF you are reluctant to advertise your private free spot, I'll gladly send you my email!!) But most important to me is being able to catch fish close to camp, sit in my lawnchair with a view of the water, easy to wash hands and clean a dish, and have a few beers around a campfire. I don't even mind if there are others around as long as I have my acre of privacy.

Thirdmost - I am travelling solo, a bachelor, and I'm going to be on vacation, so I'll want to mix in a little leisure life too. I am thinking after 3-4 nights in the woods by myself, I'll be ready to go to town for a hotel room, a few drinks, and a meal, and hopefully some good live music. It appears that any towns of size are Ely and Grand Marias, correct??. I thought of driving from MO to Grand Marias and checkout the Gunflint Trail, and slowly work my way west to Ely area. The Rainy Lake area intrigues me too. I know there is fire damaged areas on Gunflint, and kind of out of the way driving wise. Starting to think of skipping Gunflint??

I will likely rent a canoe and do a couple day trips - namely East Bearskin to Crocodile - I've been told even a novice can catch walleye there. And I would really like to catch some smallmouth, big ones are rare in MO streams. I sure would like to eat fish for supper every night, and not opposed to panfish!!

So all advice is appreciated. One request - when describing a lake or location, please add where it is located, such as "50 miles northwest of Ely" or "near Canadian border in NE MN" or "in Lake County" - some kind of description so I can find iton a good map and then pinpoint on my travelling atlas so I can make a plan on stops as I travel across the top of the state.

There's a couple music festivals, one I believe is bluegrass, I wouldn't mind going to on weekend. I believe one is in Walker, but too hard rock for me and one in Winona (maybe on the way home). I would appreciate any tips on bluegrass or country fall festivals, or any towns/breweries/wineries that would have some good music on weekends.

Thanks
Mark Vogt
St. Mary, MO

PS In the mid '80s, I worked in MN for a Cable TV contractor, worked in Albert Lea, Park Rapids, Staples, Wadena, East Grand Forks, Moorhead, Austin, others - but can't believe I never fished!!HA
 
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07/30/2019 09:49PM  
There should be a way to find your old post. I can't help there,but perhaps someone can.

I second the Crocodile idea. I would stay there two nights, then a bunkhouse/dining room post trip at the canoe rental. Bearskin Wilderness Outfitters and Hungry Jack Outfitters are listed above as sponsors of this site and nearby. I'm cheap too, but sometimes fishing is worth it.
As far as lakeside SNF free sites,someone local would know better. When you go to Ely and the West side for a motel, you could rent a canoe/post bunkroom there too, maybe cheaper than a motel. Many west side outfitters listed above as well.
I hope you find some free lake camps and plan a route. These two stops could be a couple of breaks for a shower and dining at least. I hope you find a water's edge paradise
site or two and wish I knew of a drive-up free camp; teeming with fish! A three week retirement fishing trip sounds really cool. Good luck, oth
inspector13
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07/31/2019 07:30AM  

In a prior response to you I suggested the Silver Island Rustic Campgrounds. You might want to peruse the Forest Service website for other places that may meet your needs.

The Gunflint Trail is over 50 miles long. There is visible fire damage on the last 12 or so miles, but don’t let that prevent you from visiting the area. The Chik-wauk Museum is at the end of the trail in the burn area and is very interesting.

Besides the overtly tourist towns of Ely and Grand Marais, there is Two Harbors and Silver Bay on Hwy 61. Also resorts and restaurants dot Hwy 61 along the North Shore of Lake Superior. A restaurant most would think in the middle of nowhere is the Trestle Inn. I recommended that place a few weeks ago to a co-worker and he thanked me for it when he got back.

07/31/2019 09:02AM  
Sounds like you have a great general plan and one that I would enjoy doing a lot. While there is some free camping available up in NE Minnesota, there is not a lot of it. But there is a wealth of Superior National Forest campgrounds and Minnesota State Forest campgrounds that would work perfectly for what you are looking to do. The fees in those are somewhat less than State Parks and range from $12-$22 per night, a little easier to take. In my endless quest for finding new and interesting camping spots I have found a couple interesting resources that might help in your trip planning.

State and national Forest camprounds are often incredibly nice and scenic but are rustic - on the other hand they are often not real busy either. Depends on where and when you go. Anyways take a look and if you have any questions about a specific campground or two, ask away. I have been to a lot of them and I am sure the other folks on here can fill in the gaps quite well.

BTW, Crocodile would be a great trip, even better if you spend a night there. I can attest to the walleye fishing being quite good and you shouldn't have any trouble catching some if you know the basics.


Superior National Forest campgrounds


Many of these campgrounds have their own brochure so you can get a little more information, like this:
Hogback lake campground


This is another resource that shows almost a lot of varied camping opportunities up there - I found it very interesting. Unfortunately much of what used to be free camping is no longer free, but the fees are pretty reasonable.

NE MN camping spots


MN State Forest campgrounds:

MN SF campgrounds



Since virtually all of these campgrounds are water based, if you could beg, borrow or steal(kidding) a canoe or kayak to bring with you it would increase your fishing success greatly, not to mention the enjoyment of the places you are staying. Many of these places have fishing piers or docks that you can fish off of , and some you can wade and catch fish right from shore on occasion. But if catching fish is a priority, a simple watercraft of some type would be a big boost to your likelihood of catching numbers and size of fish.

A couple of my favorites:

Crescent Lake campground
Two Island lake campground .

Good Luck and let us know how it goes. Congrats on your retirement!!
07/31/2019 10:02AM  
After re-reading your post I noticed that you mentioned Muskie. Crescent Lake has a lot of muskies in it and they are pretty easy to catch - I have caught quite a few without even trying. They aren't going to be the 40 inch plus variety most likely but still a lot of fun(they will also attack your stringer of walleye if you are not vigilant:)

It is also a good smallmouth lake and a very good walleye lake, although fish tend to be eater size to a little bigger, not a lot of lunkers in my experience. But again, to really enjoy it and experience some good fishing a watercraft would be helpful. Crescent Lake is a beautiful lake, i would say just as pretty as most BWCA lakes and totally undeveloped save for the campground. There are some really nice lakeside campsites too but I am sure they fill up fast. That time of year, mid week, you might just get lucky and get one of those. Lots of great choices up there but if you want Muskie, not so much. For a guy who has camped all over MN for 45 years, Crescent is right up there near the top of my list.





Crescent lakeside campsite







A smallish Crescent lake Muskie






Crescent sunset scene - the lake is filled with points, bays and islands and both a river inlet and outlet
Mark1
member (50)member
  
07/31/2019 05:54PM  
Thanks and I was able to find my previous post and replies by using "search" at the top. And I will probably buck up and rent a canoe a couple days. It does appear there are more options on the eastside. I figure I might hang out around one of the resorts and maybe strike up some conversations with locals to gain some fishing tips. Or maybe find some nice guy who will offer me a boat ride and teach me the ropes. Like I said, I would be tickled to death just to catch a few meals, let alone hope to catch a lunker of any species. Eating size is fine with me. Getting skunked is not!! LOL I'm a novice, and bait chucker, pretty much tight line fish or with a bobber, and will pick up some leeches and worms.. Never learned much about artificials, only throw the occasional plastic worm, crappie jigs, rooster tails, and rapalas.
I'll stay as long as I can keep myself entertained. Maybe catch a Friday night football game. I'm a small town guy, and will probably hit a few local waterholes for some brewskies and meet some locals with advice.
Any advice on anything is appreciated. I am marking all suggestions on my map, and hope I can hop scotch across the area. Thanks again, Mark
billconner
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07/31/2019 06:55PM  
If you find yourself in Ely and wanting an inexpensive room, hard to go wrong at Canoe Country Outfitters. Their "motel" is plain but very clean and convenient. Easy walking to all the Ely eateries, and across the street from hs football field. Stop at Zaverals for the "local" crowd.

Sounds like a great trip.
Mark1
member (50)member
  
07/31/2019 08:56PM  
Now you're talking, Bill! LOL However, I checked Canoe Country Outfitters and they do not show "motel" rooms, only cabins with 3 night minimum and out of my price range. Am I missing something?
There is some scenic byways I would like to hit.
There is a Boats and Bluegrass Festival in Winona on Sept 26-29 I may try to hit on way home. I carry my 6 string with me on camping trips.
cyclones30
distinguished member(4155)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberpower member
  
07/31/2019 11:05PM  
The Echo trail is a paved then gravel road that services most of the BWCA entry points N and NW out of Ely. Lake Jeanette campground is near the very edge of the park and has some FREE campsites on a lake just outside the BW. (but you'd never know other than the fact you can drive to it and have a boat on it)

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/superior/recarea/?recid=37137

Otherwise...there are a ton of options. Scenic drives? The whole north shore from Duluth to Grand Marais is pretty cool. Hwy 1 from the north shore to Ely is very twisty if you're up for that and don't get car sick.

As far as fishing from shore, take the paved road east out of Ely until you cross the Kawishiwi River @ Garden Lake a couple miles outside of town. There's a short hiking trail down to the dam/falls where the river drops into Fall Lake (and the BWCA) and there's fish there all year. Same goes for where you cross the same river on Hwy 1 south of Ely.
jhb8426
distinguished member(1436)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
08/01/2019 12:08AM  
There are numerous NFS campgrounds on the edge of the BWCA on both the west and east sides. They are $18/day. Get a federal senior pass and the cost is $9. The pass is $20 for a year or $80 lifetime. They are available online, by mail or at most federal recreation sites.

America the Beautiful Senior pass

Where to buy pass locally
billconner
distinguished member(8598)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberpower member
  
08/01/2019 06:09AM  
Mark1: "Now you're talking, Bill! LOL However, I checked Canoe Country Outfitters and they do not show "motel" rooms, only cabins with 3 night minimum and out of my price range. Am I missing something?
There is some scenic byways I would like to hit.
There is a Boats and Bluegrass Festival in Winona on Sept 26-29 I may try to hit on way home. I carry my 6 string with me on camping trips."


If you click on their "other services" and look for "lodging before and after'.

https://www.canoecountryoutfitters.com/other/

It says $19-30 - as solo probably $30. That's in town.

At their Moose Lake, besides cabins, campsites and a bunkhouse - $15 - which you'd probably have to yourself in Sept, at least mid-week. Dock, bath, showers, sauna, store, and canoes to rent.

Mark1
member (50)member
  
08/04/2019 09:05AM  
Bumping to top..
Good advice on bunkhouse. I have seen other resorts with bunkhouses but didn't add to my notes, mainly because I assumed the bunkhouses were only for people to stay one night at beginning or end of trip. Assuming the traffic slows in Sept., would these places rent a bunkhouse for more than one day? Would appreciate anyone who has used bunkhouses to tell me which ones have cheap bunkhouse sleeping. Mainly thinking a roof over my head for rainy nights. I don't need much. A bunk is all I am looking for.
08/04/2019 11:02AM  
Get the Superior National Forest map. It has all of the campsites listed. Then go to the Superior National Forest website to see which ones are free or very low price. You do realized you can camp anywhere in a National Forest. I would suggest the area north of Tofte. Many great campsite in that area. I'm a retired teacher too. Congrats
billconner
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08/04/2019 06:01PM  
As far as my suggestion of CCO, call them and ask. If they have the space I'm sure they'll rent it.
dele
distinguished member (119)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
08/05/2019 10:14AM  
Hi Mark, sounds like a great trip you have planned. You mentioned being cheap, but parts of your first post make it sound like you are willing to invest a little bit to enjoy your vacation (mention of a hotel, etc). If you have a little money to spare, hiring a fishing guide on one of your first days up there would not only be a very fun day, but also a great way to increase your enjoyment of the rest of the trip. You'd learn a lot about how and where to fish and you would very likely get some great suggestions from a local about places to go and things to do later on. It's not cheap, but if I were in your shoes, I'd do it if I could afford it. Enjoy your vacation!
marsonite
distinguished member(2468)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
08/05/2019 10:39AM  
Sand lake (north of Greenwood lake on lake county 2 has a free campground right on the water.
Boppasteveg
distinguished member (147)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
08/08/2019 07:24AM  
Fall Lake Campground out of Ely.
08/09/2019 08:25AM  
East bearskin is a nice campground even has a couple of cabins you can rent for like 65$ a night. Crocodile is a nice little lake easy to get to the midlake campsite is the nicest caught walleyes right from camp.

On the echo trail Jeannette is a decent campground like 12$ a night

also the kawishawii entry point campground is nice too it is in the center of the boundary waters
Yakfish
member (25)member
  
08/11/2019 09:23AM  
I’ve stay at kawishiwi rustic camp site several times. It’s really nice for day trips decent walleye not far from sawbill outfitters.
fishinfool71
senior member (82)senior membersenior member
  
08/14/2019 08:44AM  
For your "Canoe Rental time" Might I suggest the Baker Lake EP39. You can get there and set up at the FREE Campsites(5 of them) and hang out a day or two, also can drive to Sawbill Outfitters for your canoe. Easy put in and take out. I think you can stay there 7 consecutive days before having to vacate. Great easy entry with very small portages to get to Peterson, Kelly lakes. Troll with a rapala through Peterson and Kelly and I can assure you , that you you'll pick off walleye. Easy day trips. up to the Gold mine between Kelly and Jack. If you want a truly great Walleye lake that fish are easy to catch, take the long portage to Burnt Lake. I can give you some areas to fish on all the above mentioned lakes if you want and you will catch more walleye than you need. You can troll or use slip bobber, or even jig.
 
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