I'll be taking a trip soon that will require some lining through rapids. What rope should we have on our canoe?

I use 3/8” polypropylene rope.

I get it from NRS and use their Rescue Rope product.
But they have many different sizes and types of rope!

Poor choice of words on my part.

Is the type really that critical?

Take the marked portages and forget about lining rapids. In the end you'll probably save time.

BigCurrent: "Take the marked portages and forget about lining rapids. In the end you'll probably save time. "

Some of us paddle where there are not portages. I've just moved to an area where there are a lot of streams to paddle without portages so very interested.

I know - gave read - you want a line that will float and us light colored for visibility. And each one a little longer than the canoe.

billconner: "....And each one a little longer than the canoe."

I would recommend 25' on each end, IMO. edited from 50'... buy 50' and put half on each end.

Dock Rope

For lining especially pulling up shallow rivers and creeks I like a the handle on dock line. Much more comfortable on your hand. Can also clip on a carabiner and tie off your boat very quickly and conveniently. Played with different lengths and thicknesses. Anything less than 3/8 hurts my hand, anything more is to bulky. The webbing is really nice if you don't need a loop handle. I use 15 feet for a tie line, and 25 feet for lining.
Do you have painter holes in your canoe? It is really helpful to have the line pulling just above the water line.

Webbing

I'm surprised there has been no mention of using Shore Line. I think Ace Hardware carries it.

Not claiming even moderate use of lining but I have done some.
Beavers mentioned that needing to ask implies little to no actual experience, and I feel the same.
It's not used as a leash when walking a dog, but a way to maneuver your canoe in current with ropes. Big part is the canoe setup, and skill of the person handling the lines. You can steer the canoe out into the current with it's angle and is more like sailing than pulling it along. That is why the painter line hole in my Advantage's hull are so low, (should actually be at the waterline but I chickened out and compromised). This puts the pull angle more even with the current and improves handling a lot. 2 lines are used because you mostly pull with the rear line and steer with the bow line. The nature of use and user preference determines the size and type of rope.
I like a poly kernmantle mildly stiff 3/8ths, but have gone down to 7mm and as large as 11mm. Poly rope floats, the kernmantle slides in hand easy yet offers good grip, the diameter and stiffness determine handling characteristics. I keep the lengths at 25 feet to keep from getting tangled.

butthead

I use Sterling rope
Diameter- The larger the better for gripping, smaller is better for storage. Pick your poison.
3/8 for lining/Painters 1/4" for rescue lengths for me.

I agree with the other that say there is far more to lining than a leash on the canoe. Best to practice ahead of time, with valuables in the canoe so that the practice is real.

Carabiners- if you use them use locking so they don't hook things. Better yet tie them to the boat.

The type is important. Preferably the rope should be sufficiently thick and soft, to keep your hands out of harms way, and floating, to keep it away from underwater rocks and debris, at least 25' in length. I use EL Wood Braiding 5/16 floating rope.

I use the same as DanCooke in 3/8" diameter. With 3/8, you can pull with all your strength and not cut into your hands. Have no idea what or where you'll be lining...it makes a lot of difference. Most of my lining is upstream and then you want your rear line to be about 15' longer than your bow line...sorry you didn't ask for any advice but I'll throw that out there for others, too.

BeaV: "I use the same as DanCooke in 3/8" diameter. With 3/8, you can pull with all your strength and not cut into your hands. Have no idea what or where you'll be lining...it makes a lot of difference. Most of my lining is upstream and then you want your rear line to be about 15' longer than your bow line...sorry you didn't ask for any advice but I'll throw that out there for others, too."

Thanks Bob, that makes sense as you want to be even with or in front of the canoe. I use 25 feet as they double as tie-downs on my truck, yet I do not want too much in use.

butthead

Lining a canoe in currents is very tricky. You’ll definitely want to practice this somewhere where a mistake isn’t going to ruin a trip. I can’t think of a single place in the bwca where lining a canoe would be appropriate. We canoed the bloodvein river with hundreds of rapids and did not line once, on the ogoki river in wabakimi we lined one rapid, it turned out my brother didn’t know what he was doing, really close to a disaster.
Bill mason briefly covers lining in his book path of the paddle. Photos show him working with 50’ lengths of rope. He mentions how one of his paddling friends is an expert at lining and still ended up swamping his canoe. If you are working with this length of rope it is important that the rope has minimal stretch, a canoe broadside with a strong current can exert a huge force. Don’t let that happen.

I’ve lined a canoe about 2-3 times in the BWCA. As I remember I used two 30’ lines. It really saved me a lot of time.

Lots of good advice about line and length and about watching out for currents as it is not as easy as letting the boat float ahead. I tried it a couple times and realized this is not for me. Be sure your load is balanced, trim and low as center of gravity is critical. Like towing a canoe the risk of tipping is very high.

Beavers: "This really isn't meant as a smart ass response.


If you had the skills and experience necessary to successfully line rapids you would already know what kind of rope you need. I wouldn't want to learn lining in a remote area."

Not a smart-ass response to a response...but how is one expected to get this experience? I would think by lining a canoe. For which one might want to know what kind of rope to use.

Deleted my response,
Beavers and I had a nice conversation via E-mail and have a few things in common.
Besides the obvious canoeing, we both live off grid and built our own cabins.

The Art of Lining a Canoe


By Kevin Callan
Picture yourself approaching a set of rapids, with only a faint out-of-the-way animal trail heading up a steep incline as a portage. To make matters worse, the white water ahead is clogged with sharp pieces of granite, is rated at least a Class III, and has a couple of dangerous ledges. Making a safe run, especially in such a far-off setting, becomes questionable, even for the die-hard fanatic. So it's obvious that the best option is to tie your canoe and cargo on a short leash and walk it down like a pet dog.
This maneuver sounds a bit insane at first, but lining a canoe is an art form that has been practiced for years. It shouldn't be taken lightly. However, after many years of trial and error on less remote trips this technique can help transform a river thought to be un-navigable into a trip of a life time.
First you must choose between lining with one or two ropes. Lining with two ropes attached to bow and stern takes a little more rehearsing than just having one tied on to the stern. However, it also gives you more control of the boat as it surges downstream.
To attach your two lengths of nylon rope (27 yards/25 meters long and 1/4 inch/6mm thick) some canoeists simply tie each piece to the bow and stern base plate. This limits your control over the canoe, however. The rope is much more efficient lower to the water. You could drill holes through the upper ends of the bow and stern and place the rope through there. But I find the bridle knot (perfected by the legendary canoeist, Bill Mason) to be the best bet. Take a length of your rope and double back one end approximately two yards (two meters). Then knot both ends together in the center. Now place the two short ends of rope under the bow, so the knot is positioned under the canoe, right on the centerline, and tie the ends to the outer portions of the canoe seat. Repeat the same procedure with the other length of tracking line at the stern. With the main length of rope positioned directly under the canoe you place the point of pull on the centerline; this prevents the canoe from tipping when you're pulling it across the current.
It is up to you whether to track the canoe downstream alone or with the help of partner. Choosing to go alone means you're going to have to adjust both ropes. This can be confusing at the best of times. But with a partner taking one end and you on the other, communication and coordination becomes essential. I've seen far too many arguments erupt from partners trying to line together. I choose to go at it alone.
Lining solo you must adjust the two lengths of rope and regulate the angle of the canoe relative to the current. The force of the water will push against the canoe, skirting it back and forth and allowing you to place it in the desired position.
Having the stern pointed upstream and the packs weighing down the bow will give you more maneuverability and lessens the chance of the canoe digging into the water and swamping. Also try to avoid eddies where the canoe is forced upstream with the current; it may swing broadside when forced back into the mainstream and yank you into the drink. Also make sure not to get tangled in the rope. You can drown in an instant this way, which is why all canoeists should always have a sharp belt knife on them or a sheathed blade attached to your PFD. Remember that lining is an art form, a technique where finesse and coordination beats out brute strength every step of the way.

I just ordered some of the below for my painters. I ordered 80 feet total and will cut to 2 x 30' and 1 x 20' section. It's the same rope used in whitewater throw bags.

ROPE

Beavers: "....I tried not to come off as an a-hole but apparently failed."

Don't worry. Everyone on this board, IMO (not a fact, but maybe BS), comes across as rude, crude, or socially unacceptable once in a while.

I think Andy knows this site fairly well. He been a member longer than me, even if he's just a young pup!

butthead

Thanks for all the responses, some helpful, others less so. It finally occurred to me to consult Cliff Jacobson's Canoeing Wild Rivers, which makes many of the points made here--plus gives advice on the choice of a line: 25' of 3/8 kermantle polypropelene.

No offense intended.

And I learned far more about lining a canoe than I knew before from this thread.

overland: "Thanks for all the responses, some helpful, others less so."

Sorry overland. I usually don't post to threads unless I have something positive to add. I'm glad you were able to find the info you were looking for.

" rude, crude, or socially unacceptable "

That was first choice for my user name but it was too long

A good online magazine article on lining rope starts on page 22

Magazine link