BWCA Pukaskwa Trail - Ontario, Canada Boundary Waters Group Forum: On Foot
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      Pukaskwa Trail - Ontario, Canada     

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Minnesotian
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03/22/2020 03:40PM  

Heyo, I backpacked the complete length of this trail last summer and was asked to give a quick write up of what I thought. Here goes.

sns: "
fadersup: "
Minnesotian: "
fadersup: "Has anyone paddled Pukaskwa? "

Haven't paddled it, but did backpack it completely last summer. "

Mind sharing a quick capsule review of the experience?"

I second the request - we have looked at Pukaskwa pretty hard... "


Short, short answer...go. Just go. Whether you backpack or canoe, it is worth it.
Have you backpacked the Superior Hiking Trail in Minnesota? Well, imagine that trail, but instead of being up on the ridge line looking down at Lake Superior, and wishing you could be on the shore, Pukaskwa's trail is basically along the shore for the whole length. At a couple points, I actually had to wade into Superior to hook back up with the trail.

It is only 60 km long (37 mi) so I was able to do a yo-yo trip of 120 km (74 mi) in a week, but I don't recommend doing it that way. In fact, the rangers were pretty concerned that this was an ambitious schedule, but they still let me go. The elevation gain isn't as much as the SHT, but the trail is mostly toe-bashing rocks the whole way. It can be tiring in a different manner then the SHT. However, basically every night you are camping on the shore of Lake Superior and jumping into that coldness after a hot day.

There is a water shuttle that can drop you off at the end of the trail and you hike back to your car. It isn't cheap, but that is what I would do for next time. That way I could really take it slow and daily mileage low. Make sure you build in extra time at the start in case it is too foggy for the shuttle. You might have to wait a couple hours more then you thought.

Make sure you have very grippy boots because if it rains, there is a lot of slick granite to traverse over. I was lucky in that it didn't rain the whole week I was there or else my daily mileage would have been taxed. Make sure you have the instincts to find the trail as well along with the usual compass or GPS. There were a couple times I completely ran into a dead end. I pride myself on seeing human trails in low mileage areas and this trail threw me for a loop a couple of times.

There is a side trail I took called Mdaabii Miikni that was just carved out about 3 or 4 years ago. It is rough. There are points where you are navigating from tree tape ribbon to ribbon. Unless you are really ambitious, I don't recommend taking it. However, if you are only there for a long weekend, then this would be the trail to take.

Every night I was able to get water from Superior and since the park is on the eastern shore, I witnessed a wonderful sunset almost every night. In the week I was there I saw half a dozen backpackers and 2 canoes. This was over the July 4th week of 2019. The weather was perfect. There are bugs of course, but because there is always a nice cooling breeze off Superior, they weren't terrible.

If you backpack or canoe, you have to register with the Rangers. And then also check out when you leave. They keep track of who is in the park, backcountry at least, to make sure everyone is accounted for.

Last but not least, the drive from Grand Marais to the park is amazing. Make sure you build in some extra time for stopping along the way. You will be gobsmacked that this is the same Lake Superior you have seen countless times.

Enjoy some of my favorite pictures from the trip:

1. Part of the trail. Literally along the shore of Superior and navigating via cairns.

2. See the rocks in the water? That's the trail. For about 30'.

3. Beach campsite at the end of the trail. The Ontario Parks have this thing about Red Chairs. It was greatly appreciated.
4. With hiking along the shore, these kind of views were constant.

5. Nice little beach fire.

6. Relaxing on the beach.

7. End of trip and heading back home on the motorcycle.
 
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billconner
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03/22/2020 05:50PM  
Thanks for excellent report. I think I read about this in backpacker magazine. Glad to be reminded.
 
03/22/2020 06:26PM  
Very nice summary.

We took about 6 trip ideas down to one a few years back....Pukaskwa NP was the bridesmaid, and we went to Woodland Caribou instead.

Totally agreed about the north shore of Superior. It's a different experience than the MN/WI/UP part.

The red chairs! Not Ontario. All the National Parks in Canada.
 
HappyHuskies
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03/23/2020 06:44AM  
This has been a trip on my "must do" list for a few years, so great to see a recent report. I've paddled at Pukaskwa and always thought it would be great to go back and hike the Coastal Hiking Trail.

Thanks for sharing!
 
03/23/2020 09:15AM  
Thanks for the report! Pukaskwa has been on my list for years, just need to make it happen.

Slightly off topic perhaps, but I'm a newish rider and I'm thinking of my motorcycle as a great way to travel to backpacking destinations. I found that I can fit my 65 L lightweight Deuter backpack (along with other camping stuff) into a 30 L SealLine dry bag strapped to the bike as a tail bag. That keeps all the straps on the backpack from dangling, and I don't have to wear the backpack while riding. I think I can get everything I need (except maybe food) for a week-long backpacking trip onto my motorcycle, but I'm curious how you pulled it off.

If you don't mind answering, how did you take your backpack and other camping gear on the bike?

Also, did you just leave the bike in the parking lot while you were backpacking? If so, did you have any concerns about doing that?

And writing this reminds me, for anyone near Duluth the Aerostich store is a little-known alternate place to buy camping gear. It's focused on motorcycle camping of course and they don't have the volume or selection of an REI store or even a Trailfitters, but they do have some interesting stuff, and a ton of different bags, stuffsacks, etc. I bought the 30 L SealLine drybag there. They have a great website too for those not near Duluth.

Thanks, Bruce
 
Minnesotian
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03/23/2020 01:38PM  
brulu: "Thanks for the report! Pukaskwa has been on my list for years, just need to make it happen.

If you don't mind answering, how did you take your backpack and other camping gear on the bike?"


Hiya Bruce,
Thanks much and yeah, motorcycle camping and backpacking kinda go hand in hand. If you can get everything into a backpack, then it can ride with you. Sounds like you and I have the exact same backpack, the Deuter 65+10. Love that bag and I have had it for about 10 years so I am thinking about upgrading it to a new version.

For the trip I was able to get everything, including a week of dehydrated meals, breakfasts and lunches along with the rest of my gear into the Deuter. On my motorcycle I have a taller passenger bar that I leaned the backpack up against and then used ratchet straps to secure the bag. I have a rain cover for the backpack that keeps it dry. I used bungie cords to make sure no straps were dangling.

I did upgrade my saddle bags for this trip, to a size that could hold my motorcycle gear while I was hiking.

brulu: "Also, did you just leave the bike in the parking lot while you were backpacking? If so, did you have any concerns about doing that?"


I was concerned about this and expressed that to the ranger. He replied, "Oh, yer cycle will be fine. This is Canada." And you know what, as soon as he said that I realized that yeah, the motorcycle and gear was fine. Now, if I was heading to a popular national park here in the States, then I would probably look at getting saddlebags that locked and a way to lock my helmet as well. At the same time, I'm not super concerned about leaving my stuff behind unlocked especially in a remote national park. There aren't too many assholes out there that mess with motorcyclists gear.

Canada requires a helmet for motorcycling.

brulu: "And writing this reminds me, for anyone near Duluth the Aerostich store is a little-known alternate place to buy camping gear.
"


Thanks for the tip. Always am interested in gear shops.
 
03/24/2020 01:03PM  
Thanks for the answers Minnesotian,

My Deuter's a 50+15, but about the same age and probably pretty similar. I think I have a smaller bike, and no passenger bar, but if I really crammed I could probably fit the food along too. But I figure I can pick up at least some of the food once I get to my destination.

That thought (it's Canada, it would be fine in the parking lot) occurred to me after I wrote the post.

Hope you're able to get in a good trip or two this summer!
 
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