- Not sure if this is the right forum for this, happy to post elsewhere if better! -

I recently got this used Wenonah Minnesota II for cheap. Turns out it’s from 1989 and was abused more than loved over at least the past 10 years. I’m beginning repairs, but am completely new at this and would love some insight. I realize it’s got limitations, but it’s a good learning opportunity and a decent, if I dare call a MNII this, beater canoe.

So far, next steps in my plans include removing the loose parts of the patches and the flakes of finish. The patches are not great, and some are on the outside. There’s a particularly large (~14"x6") nasty one on the bottom. I’m wondering, do I try to completely remove these patches? If I do, what’s the best way to attempt that?

Following the clean up, I know I’ll be sanding and applying a new finish (still deciding on what I’ll use, I know there’s a lot of threads about the different options), but when in that process do I redo the patches that I’m removing? I’m thinking sand, patch, finish, but just want to check that I’m not making glaring errors.

Also, there’s significant damage on the bow and stern. I honestly don’t really know what I should do for these spots and am open to any suggestions.

I’ve contacted Wenonah and will talk specifics with them as well, but I’d like to learn as much as possible and these forums seem like they’re a wealth of information!
(pics are at various points in drying after a good washing)

I'd scrape them all off and start over and repatch. Then refinish. I use FG on outside (wets clear) and kevlar on inside.

Wow, she certainly was a little abused eh?

I'm with Cowdoc 100%. Scrape/sand the old patches off & replace. I'd maybe go kevlar all around except for the skid plates which maybe a few layers of S-glass would wear & look better than heavy felt skid plates.

Are you going to go aluminum or wood gunwales and thwarts? Are you planning on replacing or trying to repair the foot brace for the stern? Looks like the yoke is salvageable, just stain & re-treat...

Good luck on the repairs! You should get some good advice.

I'd go fiberglass all around. Easier to blend in, easier to sand, better bond. Once kevlar frays its very tough to get it looking good. Glass doesn't fray. I'm a little concerned in that the third photo seems to show considerable UV damage but photos of the canoe at large don't seem to show it.

Sanding clear coat kevlar is difficult- kevlar achieves its weight savings by bonding with resin without the fiber being wet through. Once the sandpaper removes the surface resin the kevlar frays.


The damage at the end of the canoe (shown in photo 4) also seems to suggest severe UV damage and that the patches were added after the UV damage (perhaps because parts of the canoe were so brittle). Looks like the resin used in the patches was not mixed in a proper ratio. Maybe too hot (too much hardener) or possibly not enough and the resin was exposed to water before it had fully set up.

mirth: "Are you going to go aluminum or wood gunwales and thwarts? Are you planning on replacing or trying to repair the foot brace for the stern? Looks like the yoke is salvageable, just stain & re-treat...
"

Thanks mirth! Plan is to do some pricing for aluminum gunwales replacement and see how much of a rebuild I want to do. Kind of depends on how much I can salvage out of the mess of the hull. And yes, planning on rehabbing the yoke, wood is much more in my wheelhouse :)

After your suggestion, I found some threads with detailed description of doing s-glass skid plates which seem very helpful, so thanks!

Banksiana: "I'd go fiberglass all around. Easier to blend in, easier to sand, better bond. Once kevlar frays its very tough to get it looking good. Glass doesn't fray. I'm a little concerned in that the third photo seems to show considerable UV damage but photos of the canoe at large don't seem to show it.

Sanding clear coat kevlar is difficult- kevlar achieves its weight savings by bonding with resin without the fiber being wet through. Once the sandpaper removes the surface resin the kevlar frays.

The damage at the end of the canoe (shown in photo 4) also seems to suggest severe UV damage and that the patches were added after the UV damage (perhaps because parts of the canoe were so brittle). Looks like the resin used in the patches was not mixed in a proper ratio. Maybe too hot (too much hardener) or possibly not enough and the resin was exposed to water before it had fully set up."

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll do some more comparison and see what makes sense!

The photos are a little misleading because it was wet and partially drying. So that third photo its got wet and dry spots. The finish is nearly nonexistent on the bottom so it looks splotchy as it dries, so that's probably why it looks so different from the views of the entire canoe. I'm sure there's UV damage though. When I was talking with the PO, he said he used to store in the garage, but the past few years it was outside between 2 garages. Probably fairly shaded as the buildings are close and the weeds were high lol but obviously not ideal.

I'll talk to Wenonah about what they recommend for sanding. I'm considering this project a canoe repair class and hoping to get something useable at the end. If I succeed in both, it was a very good investment for what I paid :)

cowdoc: "I'd scrape them all off and start over and repatch. Then refinish. I use FG on outside (wets clear) and kevlar on inside."

Thanks for the advice. Any particular tools you've found helpful in scraping off patches?

Paint scraper, putty knife, razor blade in a handle......all come into use