HOWDY!

I'm in the exploratory phase of doing some kind of outdoor adventure trip during the annual MEA BREAK - October 15-18. I'm on the fence between going to the BWCA or finding an alternative closer to where I live (on the MN side 25 miles east of Fargo, ND). I have been to the BWCA 12 times, including three previous October trips - but never have done a solo and am considering doing one possible this year. I recently purchased a tank - AKA a 17ft Grumman - my first canoe of my own - and I'm determined to take it on a solo BWCA voyage....just to say I did it once - I will be using this with my boys next summer on a trip or two.

I am fully aware of what the weather can do, the limited daylight, and what wind can do. For me, this makes canoeing and camping fun and challenging and it's necessary to plan ahead. If I do this, I am going to play things safe and understand my limitations - avoid big water, avoid gargantuan portages as I portage THE TANK, and don't go too deep into the B-DUB. For me, I'm looking for just a few days of solitude where I can unwind a bit after teaching during the COVID ERA as I know I'll value some time away.

I've narrowed the options down for me to these Ely-area locations:

Mudro EP - Camp either on Mudro or paddle up and stay on Horse and then maybe daytrip to LBF if water levels are higher - I've entered Mudro twice before - and I just love this area.

LIS NORTH EP - Camp either at Devil's Cascade or paddle up to Loon Lake and camp there. LIS NORTH was the site of my first BWCA experience as an 8 year old in 1988 - would bring back great memories for me - I've never seen Devils Cascade.

LIS SOUTH EP - Head down to Bootleg Lake and back - extreme solitude - never been in this area.

Moose Lake EP - Plenty of options here - I haven't been here in 30 years - I imagine this area would be much quieter in October - it would be fun for me to go here to see what this area looks like after so many years away.

Slim Lake EP - Stay on Slim Lake and day trip to the other lakes in the area. Never been here - thinking it would be nice to scout this area to bring my boys here for their first BWCA trip.

South Hegman - Base camp there - explore the pictographs on North Hegman and try to day trip to Nels Lake if the creek connecting South Hegman and Nels is able to be paddled. I've not been to this area before.

Do any of these options stick out for better or worse one way or another for what I want to do?

Any tips on soloing with a big old Grumman? I've read a few things but always welcome any other advice!

Thanks for any advice you can impart!

I've done solos in my 17' Grumman. Sit in the front seat and paddle with the stern leading the way. Load it down and ballast iif needed so the canoe sits down in the water or the wind will mess with you.
Do not go to Bootleg. The water level on the Little Pony will probably be too low, and it's a long way on the LIS river with a 17' boat to get to the other portage in.
Portages out of Mudro are not Grumman friendly.
If you want Grumman friendly river trip consider the Vermilion River. The 15 mile stretch between the High Falls and Chipmunk Rapids. There are two campsites along the way.

Of your options...I'd say LIS North or Slim. Mudro you might run into low water issues on the creek between road and Mudro unless they get more rain between now and then. LIS South seems like a lot to bite off in a tank of a boat on a solo.

Slim gets my first vote...only because that Devil's Cascade portage is a tad longer than others.

You can’t reach Nels from Hegman. There is a creek but it’s not navigable. Water levels could be low entering Mudro but it doesn’t take but a few days of rain to raise it. So I’d suggest the Mudro entry. You’ll have quit a few options for day trips and you probably won’t see too many people MEA weekend. Slim Lake is a pretty lake and a neat area to explore. You can also access the North Arm trails from Slim.

Had a friend solo his 18ft Grumman while my friend and I paddled my 17 ft Grumman. He loaded his packs in the front to keep the bow down and did pretty well. The only issue he ran into was paddling into a strong headwind across Clearwater. He was pushed around a lot so that made for some tough going.

Have fun, it is definitely doable!

Whichever route you decide on, I just wanted to offer encouragement to get out there and go try it. You’ve been out there in fall and know the weather can be hard. Like mentioned above, you will have to put your gear far forward to keep the bow down - maybe more than you realize. Just watch the wind forecasts and make changes as needed ( easy to do as permits in October are self-issued).

My first BW trip was a solo in a Grumman. Definitely doable. Like others have stated you'll have to sit backwards and weigh down the front end. I used rocks for ballast which some may not recommend if you swamp it. I would try to get out and practice locally. I had my Grumman for years and solo camped out of it often. No matter how much you ballast the wind will affect you. I always tried to travel early before the wind picked up. I wished I lived closer to BWCA.

My first few trips were with two other guys. We took two 17 foot grummans and took turns paddling solo. We never did the backward thing. Just sat in back so we could J stroke.

However you do it, you definitely need to weigh the front down, especially if there is a head wind, you will want to be trimmed dead level. A good trick is to get a few dry bags and fill them with water, and put them in the front. The advantage of using dry bags is they have neutral bouyancy in the event you swamp. Not so with rocks.

I think Moose Lake will be plenty busy on MEA weekend. I'd avoid that. If you want to do the LIS, since you won't have to stop for a permit, your easiest drive would be to head for Orr and take Highway 23 up to the Echo trail. That will save you a little time vs going through Ely.

martoonie: "I've done solos in my 17' Grumman. Sit in the front seat and paddle with the stern leading the way. Load it down and ballast iif needed so the canoe sits down in the water or the wind will mess with you.
Do not go to Bootleg. The water level on the Little Pony will probably be too low, and it's a long way on the LIS river with a 17' boat to get to the other portage in.
Portages out of Mudro are not Grumman friendly.
If you want Grumman friendly river trip consider the Vermilion River. The 15 mile stretch between the High Falls and Chipmunk Rapids. There are two campsites along the way.
"

Thanks for the tips! I've read water levels are very low this year - especially now. I've decided to avoid Mudro and LIS South. I checked out the Vermillion River - never realized that could be an option. I think I'll consider doing that route with my dad and brothers sometime!

cyclones30: "Of your options...I'd say LIS North or Slim. Mudro you might run into low water issues on the creek between road and Mudro unless they get more rain between now and then. LIS South seems like a lot to bite off in a tank of a boat on a solo.


Slim gets my first vote...only because that Devil's Cascade portage is a tad longer than others. "

These are the two options I think at the forefront for me right now. I just read that Mudro is VERY dry right now - but that could change in a month's time. The Slim area would be best....and easiest for solitude with very limited portaging. Have you been to Devil's Cascade? If so, is that portage a tough one? Or just that it's long?

egknuti: "You can’t reach Nels from Hegman. There is a creek but it’s not navigable. Water levels could be low entering Mudro but it doesn’t take but a few days of rain to raise it. So I’d suggest the Mudro entry. You’ll have quit a few options for day trips and you probably won’t see too many people MEA weekend. Slim Lake is a pretty lake and a neat area to explore. You can also access the North Arm trails from Slim. "

Thanks for the Nels/Hegman info! I was wondering about that - good stuff to know! I really love that Mudro area - if water levels rise, it will be a coin flip if I go there because I love it so much - LBF is my "Heaven on Earth."

On Slim....is it possible to take a trail...or portage to Keneu Lake? I thought I read that somewhere.

DKalis: "Had a friend solo his 18ft Grumman while my friend and I paddled my 17 ft Grumman. He loaded his packs in the front to keep the bow down and did pretty well. The only issue he ran into was paddling into a strong headwind across Clearwater. He was pushed around a lot so that made for some tough going.


Have fun, it is definitely doable! "

Thanks for the knowledge and encouragement! Sounds like a good time you had! My plan going solo for the first time is to avoid big water because of the problems winds can create. I'll keep it mind to load up the front!

Jaywalker: "Whichever route you decide on, I just wanted to offer encouragement to get out there and go try it. You’ve been out there in fall and know the weather can be hard. Like mentioned above, you will have to put your gear far forward to keep the bow down - maybe more than you realize. Just watch the wind forecasts and make changes as needed ( easy to do as permits in October are self-issued). "

Thanks a bunch, jaywalker! I really appreciate that! One of the best parts of going in October is having flexibility with those self-issues permits. Also - far fewer people. However - far more challenges, and for me, that's perfect for my mind and body as long as I'm not overdoing things, using common sense, and being able to have options in case a problem arises. Forecasts are pretty reliable these days 4-5 days in advance compared to years ago. I just want that feeling of solitude....and from what I've read about the BWCA this year....it's been more of a challenge - I feel pretty confident in October, though, I'll have a better shot at it.

Out of curiosity, of the places you've traveled in the BWCA - what places stick out as "must see" places or bucket-list items to do?

Podunk: "My first BW trip was a solo in a Grumman. Definitely doable. Like others have stated you'll have to sit backwards and weigh down the front end. I used rocks for ballast which some may not recommend if you swamp it. I would try to get out and practice locally. I had my Grumman for years and solo camped out of it often. No matter how much you ballast the wind will affect you. I always tried to travel early before the wind picked up. I wished I lived closer to BWCA."

Good advice to practice locally - definitely will do that for sure! I store my canoe at my dads place - he lives 15 miles out of the town I live in - but he's one mile from a lake, so I'll do some experimenting with gear and ballast. And yeah - travel early is a smart thing as well. Thanks for the tips....and YES....I wished I lived closer as well - at least I live in MN, so I'm thankful for that!!

marsonite: "My first few trips were with two other guys. We took two 17 foot grummans and took turns paddling solo. We never did the backward thing. Just sat in back so we could J stroke.


However you do it, you definitely need to weigh the front down, especially if there is a head wind, you will want to be trimmed dead level. A good trick is to get a few dry bags and fill them with water, and put them in the front. The advantage of using dry bags is they have neutral bouyancy in the event you swamp. Not so with rocks.


I think Moose Lake will be plenty busy on MEA weekend. I'd avoid that. If you want to do the LIS, since you won't have to stop for a permit, your easiest drive would be to head for Orr and take Highway 23 up to the Echo trail. That will save you a little time vs going through Ely. "

Great stuff! First off, I've wondered about the backwards thing - I think what I'll do is experiment a bit on a local lake and see what works best. I like the dry bag idea for ballast - makes total sense! Also - your advice on Moose make me nix that option - the only way I think I'd ever do Moose again is if I could go to Knife and then south to Kekekabic and points elsewhere. And YES - ORR - forgot about that - without having to get a permit - I'm leaning toward LIS North right now - thanks for the good tips!

hawleycanoeguy: "

egknuti: "You can’t reach Nels from Hegman. There is a creek but it’s not navigable. Water levels could be low entering Mudro but it doesn’t take but a few days of rain to raise it. So I’d suggest the Mudro entry. You’ll have quit a few options for day trips and you probably won’t see too many people MEA weekend. Slim Lake is a pretty lake and a neat area to explore. You can also access the North Arm trails from Slim. "

Thanks for the Nels/Hegman info! I was wondering about that - good stuff to know! I really love that Mudro area - if water levels rise, it will be a coin flip if I go there because I love it so much - LBF is my "Heaven on Earth."


On Slim....is it possible to take a trail...or portage to Keneu Lake? I thought I read that somewhere."

I once portaged from Slim to Keneu. We took a portion of the North Arm Trails to the edge of a pond( which is part of the winter ski trails). It was quit a bushwhack. I wouldn't recommend that way. There's a short portage from Hook that goes to Keneu.That's the way to go. There's a great site on Hook. I stayed there once and heard wolves howling each of the three nights we stayed.

egknuti: "

hawleycanoeguy: "

egknuti: "You can’t reach Nels from Hegman. There is a creek but it’s not navigable. Water levels could be low entering Mudro but it doesn’t take but a few days of rain to raise it. So I’d suggest the Mudro entry. You’ll have quit a few options for day trips and you probably won’t see too many people MEA weekend. Slim Lake is a pretty lake and a neat area to explore. You can also access the North Arm trails from Slim. "

Thanks for the Nels/Hegman info! I was wondering about that - good stuff to know! I really love that Mudro area - if water levels rise, it will be a coin flip if I go there because I love it so much - LBF is my "Heaven on Earth."



On Slim....is it possible to take a trail...or portage to Keneu Lake? I thought I read that somewhere."

I once portaged from Slim to Keneu. We took a portion of the North Arm Trails to the edge of a pond( which is part of the winter ski trails). It was quit a bushwhack. I wouldn't recommend that way. There's a short portage from Hook that goes to Keneu.That's the way to go. There's a great site on Hook. I stayed there once and heard wolves howling each of the three nights we stayed."

Thanks for the response! Sounds intriguing - What interests me about this area is that, for a mid to late October trip, you don't have to paddle and portage that far to get away from an EP lake. I've read that Slim Lake has some good-sized cliffs. And Rice, Hook, and Keneu all are scenic. This EP would certainly be one for me to scout to take my kids someday.

Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions!

I ended up paddling the Hunting Shack River off the Echo Trail to Astrid Lake where I base camped for two nights/three days. I was planning on a three night/four day trip - but our dreamlike fall turned ugly in the middle of October. When I went in, I knew the forecast would turn cold with snow on my final night and next day, so because of that, and because this was my first solo excursion, I decided to not go too deep inward. This option was originally way down on my list, but I'm glad I had researched it.

It ended up being a wonderful trip despite some setbacks, the worse being cutting my trip short one day because of the impending snow event. It rained all day that first day as I paddled up the Hunting Shack - I got very wet pulling over a beaver dam a half mile before reaching Astrid. The dam itself was not that big, but it was steep. Fortunately, I didn't capsize or lose anything (my greatest fear). Also, I had read a lot about tarping prior to the trip, and that ended up being my saving grace. Arriving to camp at about 4 PM, I had about 2.5 hours to get camp figured out. After some trial/erroring, I was able to get a good tarp set up (I brought in a 10x12 tarp) and thankful I bought some extra bungie straps in Orr on my way to the Echo Trail. With the tarp up, I put up my tent and now had a dry safe-haven.

The real kicker would be seeing if my sleeping bag and extra clothes were dry....yep! They were! I was able to get set up in the tent. The rain did not let up - and I skipped trying to have a fire. I was able to cook up some brats on my camp stove and called it good for supper. WIth my FroggToggs rain gear, I was pretty wet by the time this was all said and done when I climbed into the tent at 6:30 PM. I stripped off my wet clothes into dry ones - and was able to hang up most of my wet ones in the tent (they didn't dry out really). The wind really picked up out of the north/northeast. I was completely sheltered from that, so it provided spectacular white noise among the massive pines above me. It was a long, weird night in the tent that first night as the rain continued - and turned to snow after midnight. I was able to get some sleep however.

Day #2 was awesome! It was chilly as it didn't reach 40 degrees, but it was mostly sunny with a good breeze (this helped dry out my wet clothes). I explored the Astrid Hiking Trails (very cool) and checked out other campsites in the area. I had a roaring fire most of the day and that evening - complete solitude - I heard the roar of gunfire now and again from hunters. The second night was great - had some snow showers, but nothing crazy. Again, strong winds from the north - but I was protected.

Day #3 was adventurous - I left camp at about 8:30 AM with sunshine - about 10 minutes after shoving off, I paddled in complete whiteout conditions as snow-showers dominated the scene - this was somewhat exciting and scary at the same time (being by myself). Maintaining composure and paying attention is a key, so I paddled on until I reached my truck (wish I took some pictures while in the canoe during this, but I just didn't want to risk something dumb happening with that going on).

After getting to the truck at about noon-ish, I spent the rest of the day traversing the Echo Trail eastward - I was able to stop at a ton of entry points, which was a total highlight for me! Usually, when you plan a trip to the B-DUB, you're rushed to get in...and rushed to get out. Because of my change of plans, and having 6 hours of daylight, this allowed me the time to check out these EP's and the Echo Trail. It was a ton of fun...and gave me some better visuals of these areas for future trips. I arrived at Ely around 5:30 pm - walked around the Dorothy Molter Museum area and checked out Pirigas before making the long trip back home, arriving there at midnight.

I learned a lot about soloing on this trip - the big lessons learned are that I need to PACK LESS STUFF. And need some more practicing paddling solo. I can be very stubborn - the last thing I wanted to do was cut my trip short, but my gut told me to do so based on the forecast. That ended up being a good decision based on how the weather turned - and reading about some folks who were stuck up by where I was at in the BWCA a day or two after I left. I did NOT have a satellite phone or other device to call for help. I know now that will be a must next time in case. Common sense prevails.

It's crazy because the weather was just butt cold for two weeks....and then last week we had 60's and 70's...in NOVEMBER. MN Weather for ya!

Thanks again for folks here offering encouragement - it certainly helped fuel my desire for trying this out!

Glad to hear your first solo went well. It sounds like you made some smart choices and learned some lessons without it being too painful. That was a nasty weekend and was hard to stay dry and warm, We did some day trips off the Gunflint Trail that weekend, but had a nice warm cabin for the nights.

I hope you get a lot more opportunities to solo.

Nice summary of your first solo experience on a shoulder season trip. It was a great learning experience. Now you start looking at your gear, what worked what didn’t and begin the process of fine tuning your kit which will probably go on indefinitely. I have always enjoyed that process.

Because of the great weather window in early November I was able to get in a nice three day solo trip in the UP. I really prefer spring and fall trips.