I purchased a used canoe last summer and on the first portage the yoke split. It was installed with one screw vs two on each end (see photo). I will be replacing the yoke but considering adding a second screw on each end.

The question is, how much of an impact will it be if I shift the yoke an inch or so in either direction so I only need to drill one additional hole on each side assuming the existing hole is dead center.

Not much. But I would error on making the stern side heavier so you don't have to lift up the bow during portaging.

AmarilloJim: "Not much. But I would error on making the stern side heavier so you don't have to lift up the bow during portaging."

Agree... keep the stern heavier. Strap in small gear and adjust balance with that.

Agreed. Place the yoke where it should be and not necessarily where the screw hole is.
Put the canoe on your shoulders and adjust it so that the bow just starts to tip up and a little downward pressure with your arms to keep it steady.

Worst case is that it balances perfectly on your shoulders.
Tom

tumblehome: "....not necessarily where the screw hole is.....
Tom"

I would definitely re-use the existing screw hole, versus weakening the mounting area with extra holes to get perfect balance. You can adjust the balance as needed for each carry.

I guess I should also ask... is two screws on each side the right approach versus the single I currently have?

bobbernumber3: "

tumblehome: "....not necessarily where the screw hole is.....
Tom"

I would definitely re-use the existing screw hole, versus weakening the mounting area with extra holes to get perfect balance. You can adjust the balance as needed for each carry."

If you gave me a canoe to portage and I had to lift it up the whole time I walked with it, I would be pretty frustrated.

I would definitely re-use the hole too if it works out. Having to put things in the canoe to balance it is not best practices. Ask ten people, get ten answers.

You can simply place a strip of wood under the gunwale if the original hole does not line up. Many ways to stiffen the gunwale. And yes I would use two screws simply to keep it rigid. There is a lot of movement on the yoke and it is used as a lifting device too when throwing it over your shoulder.

peeruwp: "I guess I should also ask... is two screws on each side the right approach versus the single I currently have?"

It's common for yokes to be mounted with just one screw on each side and I doubt that's why yours split. I'd guess that you had some combination of rot from moisture and maybe the screws were left loose for a long time. It's also important that you use a washer on the underside to help maintain the torque on the screws and to avoid having the nuts burrow into the yoke. That said both Swift and Northstar look to be using two screws on each side so that can't hurt. I think either way will work fine but just treat the cut ends and holes on the new yoke with oil or varnish (several coats), use flat washers on the bottom (and finish washers on top like it already has) and snug up the screws occasionally (like annually).

Make sure you strap in anything you plan to carry in the canoe. I strap in my poles. That will give you a more accurate balance point if you decide to alter the yoke position slightly.

Some may use only 1 screw, but looking online both the Wenonah MN2 and the Souris River Quetico 17 use two screws. That seems much better to me. And that’s especially true for tripping canoes that are going to be portaged a lot.

I second what tumblehome said about balance. A tiny bit stern heavy so you are pulling the bow down while portaging is far better than a bit bow heavy so you are pushing up. Our first trip we tried a under seat pouch in the bow. It didn’t last past the first day because of the imbalance. Assuming the one hole is perfectly balanced, that should mean putting the second hole toward the bow. Of course, that could change depending on what you strap to the canoe while portaging and where that stuff goes. The portage pads could also shift the balance point a bit. If you can get it very close to balanced then that is even better.

You could try clamping the yoke to the gunwales to test the balance. Or drill two holes in the new yoke and try it both ways with the one hole in the gunwale. Decide which is better and then drill the other hole in the gunwale.

If you want to move the position slightly, but are concerned about making extra screw holes, you can fill the old holes with epoxy and they will be stronger than the original wood.

Thanks everyone for your replies... all are good points and have given me some food for thought as i look for a replacement....

Speaking of replacement, now that Im in the market for a new yoke... Suggestions? I know this has been posted a bunch of times likely already ;-)

I’ve gotten a couple of things from Ed’s Canoe and have been happy with the quality.

I have never used anything but one carriage bolt or machine screw for yokes and never had a problem, even with big heavy canoes. One thing that helps is to use an over-sized washer. I use a fender washer that matches the bolt size. It usually will not fit the space between the bolt and hull. I just put it in a vise and saw off a piece with a hack saw so that it has one flat side. The fender washer spreads out the stress. The other important thing is to make sure your bolts on thwarts and seats are tight. I check them every time I use the canoe. If they are loose and the yoke can rock around they will split for sure.

You could also through bolt it. That might be better than a screw.

Is the picture of an actual yoke? To me it looks more like a thwart that is being used as a yoke. Agree as others stated to be stern heavy but I would base that on how you would normally use the canoe. My "normal" use is different than my tripping use. Meaning I am carrying different stuff for tripping than normal use. I adjust my in boat packing during tripping to keep it stern heavy for portaging. I would use the existing hole and add a second. Key is to keep bolts tight to prevent unnecessary movement and add washers top and bottom to spread load. You could use old yoke as pattern and make your own to put your personal little touch on your boat. Just make sure to use a quality piece of wood.