Anyone use these for tripping? Seem like a good value, guessing they're probably a little on the heavy side but any "red flag" reasons to avoid?

thistlekicker: "Anyone use these for tripping? Seem like a good value, guessing they're probably a little on the heavy side but any "red flag" reasons to avoid? "

They are on the heavy side, but durable. We've had a couple of them in use in our group for 5+ years....no issues.

I recommend them as a budget paddle for new paddlers. I see a 7TS-RT on their website currently. They used to have an 8TS-RT for a little wider blade. It is the cheapest paddle with a decent oval shaft. I have put new top grips on several for a better feel.

Better than an aluminum shaft/plastic blade model IMHO.

There are no "red flags" with CavPro. They are very good paddles.

If you are buying in person at a retail store, pick them up and feel the weight, comparing paddles of the same length. Select the lightest one. Sometimes you can't feel the difference, because the batch was made from the same density wood, other times you can definitely feel a difference.

I use modified CavPro paddles for whitewater (rocky small rivers and large creeks). The paddles get a lot of abuse, but I've never had one fail.

To make the CavPro's more suitable for whitewater I buy a length that is too long, then cut off the handle and build my own T grip. I put dynel cord (soaked with epoxy) on the blade edges, and laminate the blade faces with a single layer of 4oz S-glass & epoxy. The weight added is minimal, but the durability and usability go way up. I turn a $40 paddle into one that would otherwise cost hundreds.

I used the paddle in the photos for 6 years in whitewater, and it was still going strong when I lost it in a long swim through some rough rapids. I made another one just like it. I'll be taking it to the BW this summer.

You don't need to modify a CavPro for lake paddling, but I would recommend sealing the end grain of the blade tip with epoxy. A tip that is coated with epoxy will protect the end grain much better than varnish. Just mask off a line 1/8-1/4" from the blade tip, mix up some epoxy, and paint it on the tip. Pull off the masking tape before the epoxy fully cures.

fantastic info, thanks for the details LittleRiver. the "stock" grip is definitely something that seems sub-optimal but it doesn't sound like modifying it is too complicated.

You're right, making a T-grip is not that hard, and having a grip that is a perfect fit for my hand is something I enjoy.

I used a tenoning jig on my tablesaw to slot the shaft, but there's other ways that could be done. The walnut block is glued in with Titebond3, and there's a stainless screw that goes in from the top down into the shaft. The screw hole is covered with a maple plug.

Final shaping of the handle was done with rasps, files, and sandpaper. I found it necessary (for comfort) to slightly narrow the shaft just below the T grip, otherwise it just didn't feel right.

I am currently modifying one of those paddles to make it more user friendly. I am probably a few weeks from completion as I am waiting for warmer weather so I can fibreglass and varnish outside of the house.

Finished my modification of a Cavpro paddle. Sanded the blade down from .500 " + thick down to .200" thick. Added an epoxy rock guard tip and edges, a buffalo plaid pattern to one side and showing my Marine Corps pride on the other. Full wrap of 4 oz. Eglass and then 3 light coats of spar varathane. I still may shorten it a couple of inches and add a T grip since that is what I am used to. Used it for 12.5 miles on the Black River in Wisconsin last weekend. Works nice for underwater recovery which is a style I have never practiced before. Opens up many different paddle techniques that are new to me. Not perfect but the little bit of "distressed" look matched me much better than fine art.

Looks good, nice work!

Nice remodel. If this is a thing you do regularly consider 2 or 2.5 ounce plain weave that is available. Its got twice the thread density and half the thickness of 4 ounce. Uses way less resin to fill the weave=less weight. I really like the stuff for paddles and repairs on my canoes.

sedges: "Nice remodel. If this is a thing you do regularly consider 2 or 2.5 ounce plain weave that is available. Its got twice the thread density and half the thickness of 4 ounce. Uses way less resin to fill the weave=less weight. I really like the stuff for paddles and repairs on my canoes."

Not to distract from the OP's excellent work on the paddle, but thank you for this tip!

Thank you for the feedback. This is my first time ever doing anything in regards to "making" or modifying a paddle. Also my first time doing fiberglass. I actually used a bar top type clear resin for the epoxy as I could get it in a much smaller quantity than I could find traditional fiberglass epoxy. $20.00 and I have enough for probably 5 or 6 paddles. Might actually try making a paddle next.

sedges: "... 2 or 2.5 ounce plain weave ... I really like the stuff ..."

Where do you buy your fabric?

I've always sourced from Sweet Composites. On their website I only see E-Glass in 2.1oz weight, and no S-Glass below 3.7oz.

E glass would be fine for paddles

google fiberglass fabric will get you lots of options.