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07/07/2021 01:11PM  
I use an older Old Town 119 canoe , it weighs 50# with spare paddle, rod and reel, repair kit, yoke and painter. I have added loops of rope as hand grips where I would grasp the gunwales when portaging allowing me to transfer the stress to my entire hand, not just my fingers. I hope it's clear so far.

On the listening post there is a topic about painters and one comment was made about holding the bow and stern painters at waist level to balance the canoe without tiring your arms out and compressing your shoulder muscles.

I am going to extend the hand grips on my canoe to waist level like stirrups. I hope to be able to push down or ease up on the stirrups to balance the canoe .

Ideas, suggestions, ridicule?
 
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Chuckles
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07/07/2021 02:39PM  
merlyn,

There are surely people more experienced than me here, but the problem with extending them (if I understand correctly) is that you'll be able to pull down, but not push up.

The beauty of using painter lines (or one line attached front and back that hangs to waist level) is that you can pull forward or back to tip the canoe down or up, as needed.

The only way I can think to make your system work is to 'back weight' the canoe so it wants to tip back-down/front-up and you keep if level with constant downward pressure on your ropes. To lift the front, you'd release pressure on the ropes and it would naturally lift the front. I think attaching to the ends is a better solution, but I could be wrong.

I usually do this with one rope that is tied to the front handle and long enough to reach the back handle and hang to around my waist. Getting the length right usually takes a few tries, but once I do, I hook a small carabiner at the right spot so at every portage I clip it to the back. I use the same biner to secure the canoe around trees and such when getting out.

That said, since switching from single to 1.5 portaging, I've skipped the rope and used my fingers. I find lifting my arms isn't nearly as bad when you don't have a pack on.
 
07/07/2021 10:44PM  
Chuckles: "merlyn,


There are surely people more experienced than me here, but the problem with extending them (if I understand correctly) is that you'll be able to pull down, but not push up.


The beauty of using painter lines (or one line attached front and back that hangs to waist level) is that you can pull forward or back to tip the canoe down or up, as needed.


The only way I can think to make your system work is to 'back weight' the canoe so it wants to tip back-down/front-up and you keep if level with constant downward pressure on your ropes. To lift the front, you'd release pressure on the ropes and it would naturally lift the front. I think attaching to the ends is a better solution, but I could be wrong.

Thanks Chuckles for your input. My canoe did not have a yoke so I added one that I bolt on to the gunnels to portage and remove to paddle. My alignment must be slightly off because the canoe is a little heavier in the stern, not much but slight downward pressure is needed to keep it level. With a stern heavy canoe I think the stirrup deal will work but I think your solution with lines bow and stern is much better. I was mainly looking for a way to ease the muscle cramps in my shoulders by keeping my hands at waist level.

I usually do this with one rope that is tied to the front handle and long enough to reach the back handle and hang to around my waist. Getting the length right usually takes a few tries, but once I do, I hook a small carabiner at the right spot so at every portage I clip it to the back. I use the same biner to secure the canoe around trees and such when getting out.


That said, since switching from single to 1.5 portaging, I've skipped the rope and used my fingers. I find lifting my arms isn't nearly as bad when you don't have a pack on. "
 
andym
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07/08/2021 12:52AM  
The old knupack system had a nice setup for the bow to stern line. Half the line was attached at each end with a plastic buckle (as used on packs) in the middle. That is easy to connect at each portage and if for some reason the rope becomes a problem and you want to separate the ends, the buckle is easy to access.

I like using sailing sheets for the rope. Sheets are the ropes used to control the sails the most and are designed to be low stretch and have a good grip and feel in your hand. West Marine is a good source.

I also set the rope so it hangs down less than seems good. Once you pull it taut with your hand it will be just right.
 
07/08/2021 05:11PM  
I tie about a 10 ft line to my bow grab handle and use that line to hold on to. I can walk a portage with only holding that line down by my waist and my other hand is free. I can switch hands any time during the portage. It takes a little practice but works great. When I hoist my canoe the line is already in my hand.
 
pswith5
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07/08/2021 08:24PM  
I use my painters to drop down maybe 8 inches to give my arms some rest. Never considered dropping down to waist level. That seems like a long ways to go to grab a hold of the canoe again. (If you start to lose grip or balance) just my 2 cents
 
1JimD
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07/08/2021 09:50PM  
I'd think the painter lines would work, except the Stern painter, on a brushy portage , might get hung up ?

Stirrups ? That is an idea worth trying !
 
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