Mike, I don't know if you saw my fishing report, but even though I did well, I still lost a lot of fish. Sadly, more than I caught. I'd rear back on my Z-Man and feel the weight of a nice fish and reel for two seconds and then they'd be free. Suggestions?

I was using 6-lb. mono.

I did LOVE all the things that bass do when they hit a Z-Man, like running toward my canoe or splashing at the surface like it's a surface lure or those little tap-tap-taps like it's a worm. It's a fun way to fish!

Not QMike but might have some help. Personally I would use at least 8# or braid for starters. I like a deep hook set, 6# is like a bungee cord to me. What was your hook make, size and style? How was the hook installed into the bait, buried in the bait or open, how much open? How long did you wait until you felt the fish? All of these will affect your hookups.

Same advice and I think Mike will agree.

Braid, exposed hook and feel for timing.

Fluke hook up percentage can be a little less sometimes anyway with smallmouth. Sometimes they just smack it without eating it.

SV, the hook was exposed, but because it was my only fluke, the hook's position was less and less ideal, as the lure was more and more deformed. The hook was a Gamakatsu offset shank worm EWG size 3/0. I did deep hook an early bass, so after that, I was setting sooner rather than later.

Mr. Maize, my timing sucks. I've only fished the Z-Man twice in my life. Any timing tips?

missmolly: "SV, the hook was exposed, but because it was my only fluke, the hook's position was less and less ideal, as the lure was more and more deformed. The hook was a Gamakatsu offset shank worm EWG size 3/0. I did deep hook an early bass, so after that, I was setting sooner rather than later.


Mr. Maize, my timing sucks. I've only fished the Z-Man twice in my life. Any timing tips?"

Gosh Miss Molly…I’m far from a pro. However, I think the biggest mistake made is just like with some other top water offerings, we set the hook on the visual swirl or splash. Maybe pick up the slack a bit more quickly between twitches to stay a little more connected. Reel up to feel tension before your set the hook. If you’re concerned about deep hooking them, use a reeling sweep hook set once you recognize the strike.

Use braid with a short mono/flouro lead.

When you feel the hit, wait a sec or so. Give the fish time to turn sideways. I always bury my hook in the lure, so I want a hard hookset that meets flesh right away. If you set the instant of the hit, you may be pulling it right out of their mouth.

missmolly: "SV, the hook was exposed, but because it was my only fluke, the hook's position was less and less ideal, as the lure was more and more deformed. The hook was a Gamakatsu offset shank worm EWG size 3/0. I did deep hook an early bass, so after that, I was setting sooner rather than later.


Mr. Maize, my timing sucks. I've only fished the Z-Man twice in my life. Any timing tips?"

Z-Man? Are you fishing with a 5" stick bait (plastic worm)?

I was fishing with a 5" Jerk ShadZ. Pearl colored.

FYI, I don't set the hook immediately. I reel until I feel the fish and then set the hook. I did catch 24. Unfortunately, I lost 24 or more.

Most of the time I see people who have issues are from setting the hook too soon. But you said you were not. I use a 1/0 Gamakatsu offset worm hook. The smaller, thin wire hooks seem to penetrate better. Maybe try a smaller hook?

Perhaps a 5” fluke was too big? I have better results with 4” or less plastics. Maybe the ones you lost had only the tail section in their mouth? I do agree with the sensitivity of a braided line with a fluorocarbon leader

iCallitMaize: "Same advice and I think Mike will agree.


Braid, exposed hook and feel for timing.


Fluke hook up percentage can be a little less sometimes anyway with smallmouth. Sometimes they just smack it without eating it. "

Maize? what a corny name! BaHaHa
Sorry I was an agromonist for 20 years!

What about using 6 lb. braid instead of mono, should have a lot less stretch when setting the hook.

I'm switching to braid and a smaller hook. However, I won't have the smaller hooks before tomorrow's fishing, so we'll see how braid alone works.

I fish flukes on 6lb braid A LOT for largemouth down here (although I usually use zoom super flukes or cabelas jerk shads over z-man). I started using a ~18" fluro leader attached with a barrel swivel and I can't say that I've noticed a difference in hook up rate or bite detection, but the swivel seems to have helped a lot with line twist from fishing them unweighted.

Of the 4 guys on our trip, I was the only one fishing a fluro leader (to braid), the others fished straight 15lb braid to a 15lb braided (7x7) steel leader) and we all caught a TON of fish. Zman Elaztech flukes were the big producer but we also did very well on spinnerbaits, frogs, and chatterbaits.

IMO, the fish in Quetico could care less about line. Multiple times I had a smallmouth hooked, lost him, and then watched him grab the lure a 2nd and even a 3rd time!

We had a guy in our group losing a lot of fish on flukes, too. He also missed, I'm convinced, a lot of fish bites. When fishing a fluke its imperative to keep tension in your line. Subtle flicks of the wrist with a quick crank of the reel to gather line is all you need to do. Our friend had a problem understanding this as his line almost always had a lot of slack. Most of the time the bite simply feels like a tap. This was especially true this past week (we were in June 2 to 11) when catching walleye which, where we fished, were in 2 to 5 feet of water on gradually sloping chunk rock banks.

Also, a sensitive rod helps a lot. If you're fishing with an Ugly Stick you may as well give up.

I don't want to jinx myself here but I am always surprised by how few Smallmouth I lose with this method. I don't feel that the hook placement and the way the lure is rigged would lend itself to good hook sets but I have had a good history with the hook up ratio.

I fish the elaztech/ Zman flukes exclusively and use the 1/0 hooks. I have used 2/0 a few times but I like the thin wire gamakatsu version. They are vey sharp and get great penetration. The fish are almost always hooked in a similar placement. (Upper lip) .

I have caught around 30 Smallmouth on a couple different trips using the fluke this spring and have only missed 3 or 4. The action is very triggering for the Smallies and I have caught over a dozen over 20" including my new personal best just over 23" a couple weeks ago. (I will try to post pics at some point but wasn't sure if I should post them on this website as they are not BWCA.

I use a medium light fast action rod with a 8 or 10# braid main line to a 8# fluro leader. No barrel swivel just my connecting knot. I rig the fluke with Mike's Z-man set up with the hook buried in the plastic bait.

I would say I have erred on the side of waiting longer then earlier with my hook set but would not say that I have done great keeping my line tight either. Sometimes I do not even feel the bite and just see my line going sideways. However, I fish out of a kayak and am dealing with current and other things to manage as well.

Please do post that 23" fish, Mr. 12. Thanks for the specifics. I tried braid the other night, like I said I would, but only caught three fish, not enough to discern if I was doing better. I also used a 1/0 hook, but it wasn't thin wire. I'll get some of those.

In the past I have had trouble hooking up with light mono and a light action, "soft" rod while using plastics. I feel like the plastic shock-absorbs on the set. Braid and heavier rod will do the trick. Maybe.

For whatever reason I tend to have problems with hook-up ratios and flukes as well. I do have somewhat limited experience using them but I tend to just stick with weightless tubes as it is basically the same thing. In my mind, a tube is more versatile as it imitates crawfish and baitfish. I have been on trips where the smallies were only hitting minnow profiles and trips like last year Trout lake ep 1 where craw presentations by far outperformed everything. With a tube you get the best of both worlds. When fishing them weightless I like to use a heavier larger EWG hook as I find it sinks a little faster but still slow. I keep my pops just small enough to get that darting motion but not too exaggerated to the point where I am losing my abilty to feel strikes. Weightless tubes are also a deadly and underrated technique for early-season walleye. I have tried using those weighted swimbait hooks and find they snag way less in rocks than using your standard tube weight that inserts inside the bait.