Fellow Paddlers-
Curious if anyone has any suggestions for transporting my 16’ Old Town Camper canoe on my truck with a new bed hard topper.

I purchased a rack system for the topper itself - the topper sits flush with my cab. I don’t have free clearance for the rocker (bow/stern) to hang freely off the back or front of cab. The bow rocker hits my cab up front making it hard to tie down securing. I also worry about the weight of the canoe (75lbs) tied on the cab. Roof started to give way a little.

I could likely purchase additional foam blocks - but the gunwales on this canoe are much wider than the typical Kevlar canoe gunwales. Getting the blocks to fit those wide gunwales are not always easy or efficient. Same with pool noodles.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I’ve attached a photo below to show my dilemma.

Thanks!

If it were me I would lash a couple 2x4s going front to back, perpendicular to and above (resting on) the cross bars. Then on top of this I would lash 2x4s parallel and above the cross bars (perpendicular to the first set of 2x4s). Basically add a frame on top of your current roof rack system. This would lift the canoe about 3.5 inches up from its current position.

A crudely drawn and not to scale top down pic is below.

Purchase another rack/bar designed to fit the cab of your truck and support the bow of the canoe on that and the stern on the bar at the back of the topper. You may be able to pick up a used system on the 'for sale' forum, craig's list or any number of boards or just go new. This way you won't have the weight of a cantilevered canoe trying to rip the rear mount off your topper either.

My canoe is 15' long with lots of rocker. Therefore, the center of the canoe when upside down is 8-10" above the rack/rail.
I considered the racks with suction cups for the cab. But decided to try the foam blocks first.
They worked well. I needed the tall foam blocks. I put them on the gunnels at the bow and on the rack/rail in the middle. The rear of the canoe rests directly on the rack/rail.

Thanks for the suggestion! Can you give me an idea of which blocks you used?

plander: "If it were me I would lash a couple 2x4s going front to back, perpendicular to and above (resting on) the cross bars. Then on top of this I would lash 2x4s parallel and above the cross bars (perpendicular to the first set of 2x4s). Basically add a frame on top of your current roof rack system. This would lift the canoe about 3.5 inches up from its current position.


A crudely drawn and not to scale top down pic is below.


"

Appreciate the reply and thoughtfulness. I think this could solve my clearance issue, but I fear it could be unstable?

https://www.amazon.com/Seattle-Sports-Extra-Canoe-Single/dp/B00JSAIU7I

I tried to put a photo but the forum site wouldn't let me. these quick search look like they would work fine.

I would drill holes (4 in total) thru the cross members of the unit you purchased so that wood strips could be bolted atop the cross members thereby increasing the height. To keep it “attractive” I would try to find 1 x 2’s (or thereabouts) and I would spray paint the wood black.

Next, after you have it clearing your cab, I would put the canoe atop where you want it and screw wood strips from two inches in from the outside edge up the edge of the gunwales. In so doing, the canoe will consistently fall into the correct riding place each time.

Next, I would attach one strip (same size) on each side thereby attaching the two cross members. Finally, glue black indoor/outdoor carpeting to the top of your completed rack (I use E6000 glue which I keep in my liquor cabinet).

The carpet lets the canoe slide effortlessly during mounting/dismounting and prevents the wood from splintering. The strips connecting the cross members make it easy for one person to car top the canoe (simply rest the bow on top the carrier perpendicular to the car’s line of travel with the stern resting on the ground; then pick up the stern and slide the canoe up while spinning and prying it into her final resting place. Reverse steps when dimounting.

Pimple simple and in twenty-five words or less. Afraid to drill thru the factory cross members? Skip that step and attach the completed rack with multiple 175 pound outdoor zip ties and buckle straps.

I use a Yakima tower/ clip and cross bar on the front door . No need for bow or stern tie downs.

It’s not cheap, but those Yakima Keelover gunnel holders will probably work perfectly. In addition to some added height you get side to side support that really aids in securing your boat.
I have the old version for round bars and they are awesome.

Blackgrass: "It’s not cheap, but those Yakima Keelover gunnel holders will probably work perfectly. In addition to some added height you get side to side support that really aids in securing your boat.
I have the old version for round bars and they are awesome."

+1

I have the Keelover kit and have used it for well over 100 miles of high speed highway driving, including on very windy days in the prairie and through severe rainstorms. I strongly recommend this for you, it seems like it would cure your problems.

Cobra317: "

plander: "If it were me I would lash a couple 2x4s going front to back, perpendicular to and above (resting on) the cross bars. Then on top of this I would lash 2x4s parallel and above the cross bars (perpendicular to the first set of 2x4s). Basically add a frame on top of your current roof rack system. This would lift the canoe about 3.5 inches up from its current position.



A crudely drawn and not to scale top down pic is below.



"

Appreciate the reply and thoughtfulness. I think this could solve my clearance issue, but I fear it could be unstable?"

We've used this set up for two canoes side by side from Mpls to Ely and back (yes its wide). That said, you need something you feel comfortable using. Regardless what you decide, make sure the canoe is centered (front to back) midway between the contact points it makes with the cross bars. You don't want the canoe tipped up or down - you want it level.

I have a Tacoma with 78” bars. I have a couple fairly rockered 16’ prospector style canoes. Like you I have a cab height topper with bars set up like yours. My prospectors don’t even touch the topper bar closest to the cab. Ad mentioned I use a third bar over the driver/passenger doors. Likewise your truck could probably be outfitted with factory rack over the cab. I highly recommend gunnel mount accessories. I too use the Yakima keel over accessory. I travel 23 hours to Ely with two canoes without issue. I’ve had three on the rack in a pyramid without any trouble. Good luck

Barry

I added the Yakima system incorporating two bars and towers from an existing system. The cab has two mounts drilled into the roof and the towers and bar mount easily. The load stops work very well at the gunnels, higher stops tended to rub the canoe (Magics have the extensive tumblehome. And with three bars I have dealt with heavy cross winds with confidence). I am overkill, but paddle frequently and have had gusty winds on local trips.
I have been advised to be aware of possible twisting as the cab and bed are separate. It has not been an issue with my Tacoma, but something to consider.

When I had an F-150 with a flush cap, I had two bars on the cap plus one of these on the cab:

Oak orchard “wonder bar”

I've always used artificial rain gutters mounted on a truck topper vs. a track system as you have the option for 'tall' gutter feet which is not available with the track feet