If you were driving eighteen hours with a canoe, would you rather have it on the roof or a canoe/kayak trailer?

Vehicle is a RAM 1500
I have a good Rhino Rack for the cab and a canoe/kayak trailer (picture attached).

I'm leaning towards the trailer because it's easier to mount vessels, won't obstruct any view, and will be more aerodynamic.

I would rather use the top rack. The trailer is more trouble parking at landings, motels and restaurants. Just my personal opinion.

How many canoes are you hauling? If taking one or two canoes, I'd put them on top of the truck. Just seems easier to me except for the mounting. I also like seeing the bow of the canoe...if it starts to wiggle, stop and retighten.

The trailer seems redundant when you have the RAM 1500.

Even if the canoes on top cost a couple MPG, it would be worth it to not have to deal with the trailer.

I agree with those saying put them on top. I have a Yakima rack and would be confident traveling 2,000 miles with two canoes strapped to that rack. As it is currently, we drive 600 miles one way to Atikokan, so 1200 miles roundtrip, and the canoes barely wiggle at 70 mph. I wouldn't want to mess with a trailer when they ride so nicely on top.

I also have a motorboat that I trailer all over the place during the summer so it's nothing against trailering. I'd just rather have two canoes on the roof of my SUV.

If our paddling trips are out of Ely, our round-trip commute is 2500 miles. To/from Atikokan is 2800. I would never consider a trailer for one canoe--too many potential issues with parking, quick lane changes, trailer lights and tires, etc.

TZ

Top. If properly mounted you'll hardly notice they're there

If I had a dedicated trailer that was setup, but only taking a single canoe. I'd probably roof it. 2 or more canoes, trailer. Any amount of Kayak's trailer.

I hauled my previous canoe from the BWCA to Texas then again from Texas to Wisconsin. Both times I got better gas mileage with the canoe on top than I do normally. 2.3 miles per gallon better to be exact and that's with my cruise control set at 75 mph almost the entire way.

Rack it!

On top, hate pulling an unneeded trailer.

On the roof is my vote too.

What model is that sweet looking classic CD kayak? I can't quite make it out in the photo. I have an Andromeda from the same era.

Thanks for the advice. I do trailer a motor boat so I'm not new to that activity. I've not had a canoe on top of the truck yet - just kayaks and they're a pain compared to using the trailer. Plus, the truck pulls that trailer with ease. Unless we decide to also bring the kayaks for a side trip on Lake Superior, I'll rooftop the canoe.

Brulu, the CD is a Gulfstream 17. The other is a Necky Chatham 17. The large fella on the right in the photo had to take these plus the trailer in a used ATV deal even though he only wanted the ATV (he doesn't fit in either kayak!). So he sold the trailer and yaks to me for $1500 Cdn. It cost me $300 alone just to replace the hatch covers on the Necky. We have a dog so sea kayaking is not in our future. Plus we have two other 14' day touring kayaks that adequately satisfy us. So I'm looking to sell the sea kayaks for the same price I paid for the whole package and keep the trailer. I will be buying a used SR17 from an outfitter with the proceeds. Pretty certain I can get $2000 Cdn for the kayaks alone. I reckon the trailer is worth at least that much by itself.

Go with the canoes on top. I have a Ram with a rack that holds two canoes and we can close our tonneau cover also. This is a custom rack so we can still close the tonneau cover.

Argo you got a great deal on that package, although now you have the trouble of selling stuff of course.

Do you know if the Gulfstream is kevlar or glass? I think if it's kevlar it should say so either on the hull somewhere or in the cockpit.

I shouldn't buy another kayak, and it might be a logistical challenge (I'm in Duluth), but there's a chance I might be interested when you get around to selling it. Feel free to email me. Bruce

No reason for the trailer. I drive a Ram 1500 as well and carry two canoes (Souris Rivers) with ease. I use a Adarac ladder rack for transport. When I take two, I attach two stacked 2x6 board to the front rack for height and width. Two U-bolts on each side with holes drilled through the boards keeps it all completely stable. Drove from central Ohio to WCPP last September (only one canoe that time).

Papalambeau and Barca, My roof rack would have the canoe centred over the cab so it will protrude well over the hood of the truck obstructing a fair amount of view. That was some of the downside I was concerned about with my setup compared to yours where the canoe is centred well back over the bed. I have a Backflip tonneau cover and I understood that most of these bed-based systems prevent the tonneau cover from opening.

Brulu, the Gulfstream is glass. The Chatham is plastic. The Gulfstream is in great shape. Depending on how my sales effort goes this spring, I may be able to transport it as far as Thunder Bay when I come up in late July.

Argo, those were all the same reasons I was staying away from a bed based system. I have a friend who is a welder, told him what I needed, and he put together a great rack that stays on the truck year round. The tonneau can be used open or closed, I can get it into my garage easily and we haul ladder stands and ladders to our deer hunting areas. I told my buddy he should patent this and make some money since I haven't found anything that compares.

What is the recommended spacing between crossbars for a longer canoe, say 18.5 ft? I would love to not trailer a canoe, but have assumed that even my super crew cab f150 would not be able to safely carry one of these longer canoes on the roof.

I have a trailer - new to me last year. I used it exclusively last year. I liked the ease of loading and unloading, parking wasn't terrible. At most EP's I just backed in and the trailer kind of went in the woods a bit, no big deal.

On top. I make four trips a year to BWCA from Virginia. No problems.

Put it on top if you can. In addition to what others have said you'll likely be on dirt roads on your way to the EP so your canoe is going to get really dusty on a trailer. Probably have rocks getting kicked up as well. Not a huge deal but something to consider.

I carry my canoes on top of my capless F-150 using foam blocks. I would not consider hauling my carbon/kevlar canoe in the bed or a trailer due to the risk of kicking up gravel and causing damage to the hulls.

mkvnwk: "I carry my canoes on top of my capless F-150 using foam blocks. I would not consider hauling my carbon/kevlar canoe in the bed or a trailer due to the risk of kicking up gravel and causing damage to the hulls."

Thanks for that. And also from Keth0601. My train of thought was about convenience. I never considered potential stone damage nor dust and dirt.

Barca: "No reason for the trailer. I drive a Ram 1500 as well and carry two canoes (Souris Rivers) with ease. I use a Adarac ladder rack for transport. When I take two, I attach two stacked 2x6 board to the front rack for height and width. Two U-bolts on each side with holes drilled through the boards keeps it all completely stable. Drove from central Ohio to WCPP last September (only one canoe that time). "

I also use an Adarac and it works very well, one of the only racks that works with a tonneau cover. It only takes a few minutes to put the uprights on and take them off, which is handy since my truck won't fit through the garage door with them on.

On my last pickup I used Yakima Q-towers which clamped to the door fames. I did not like them. They damaged paint and door seals and made a lot of wind noise in some conditions. I marked where to place them and found they would creep back during trips, so I never did fully trust them.

When I got my current pickup those no longer fit and with the Q-towers discontinued I couldn't buy new adapter clips. So I tried foam blocks. Going 75 on the the Interstate I got hit with 30+ mph wind gusts which flexed and lifted the canoe up just enough for the front two blocks to fly out and the canoe crashed down on my roof. Luckily I had spare blocks with me and was able to limp home. That's when I decided a solid rack would be a wise investment.

The biggest issue with carrying a canoe on a full size truck is how dang high it is. This is where a bed rack is nice because you can easily set the nose up on the back rack and then slide it on. The roof rack, when the bed was in use, required it to be loaded about 6.5' high from the side which was a real pain solo.

plmn: "

Barca: "No reason for the trailer. I drive a Ram 1500 as well and carry two canoes (Souris Rivers) with ease. I use a Adarac ladder rack for transport. When I take two, I attach two stacked 2x6 board to the front rack for height and width. Two U-bolts on each side with holes drilled through the boards keeps it all completely stable. Drove from central Ohio to WCPP last September (only one canoe that time). "

I also use an Adarac and it works very well, one of the only racks that works with a tonneau cover. It only takes a few minutes to put the uprights on and take them off, which is handy since my truck won't fit through the garage door with them on.


On my last pickup I used Yakima Q-towers which clamped to the door fames. I did not like them. They damaged paint and door seals and made a lot of wind noise in some conditions. I marked where to place them and found they would creep back during trips, so I never did fully trust them.


When I got my current pickup those no longer fit and with the Q-towers discontinued I couldn't buy new adapter clips. So I tried foam blocks. Going 75 on the the Interstate I got hit with 30+ mph wind gusts which flexed and lifted the canoe up just enough for the front two blocks to fly out and the canoe crashed down on my roof. Luckily I had spare blocks with me and was able to limp home. That's when I decided a solid rack would be a wise investment.


The biggest issue with carrying a canoe on a full size truck is how dang high it is. This is where a bed rack is nice because you can easily set the nose up on the back rack and then slide it on. The roof rack, when the bed was in use, required it to be loaded about 6.5' high from the side which was a real pain solo.


"

I have a Bakflip folding tonneau cover. I phoned Adarac and the rep said they can't confirm their product works with it unfortunately.

Like you, I have the Rhino equivalent to your Yakima. Mine has aeroblade style crossbars but it's still noisy. I have only carried the kayaks on it and was caught in a ridiculous crosswind on the highway last year. It held up okay. But yes to all of your concerns about paint, door seals etc.

plmn: "

Barca: "No reason for the trailer. I drive a Ram 1500 as well and carry two canoes (Souris Rivers) with ease. I use a Adarac ladder rack for transport. When I take two, I attach two stacked 2x6 board to the front rack for height and width. Two U-bolts on each side with holes drilled through the boards keeps it all completely stable. Drove from central Ohio to WCPP last September (only one canoe that time). "

I also use an Adarac and it works very well, one of the only racks that works with a tonneau cover. It only takes a few minutes to put the uprights on and take them off, which is handy since my truck won't fit through the garage door with them on.


On my last pickup I used Yakima Q-towers which clamped to the door fames. I did not like them. They damaged paint and door seals and made a lot of wind noise in some conditions. I marked where to place them and found they would creep back during trips, so I never did fully trust them.


When I got my current pickup those no longer fit and with the Q-towers discontinued I couldn't buy new adapter clips. So I tried foam blocks. Going 75 on the the Interstate I got hit with 30+ mph wind gusts which flexed and lifted the canoe up just enough for the front two blocks to fly out and the canoe crashed down on my roof. Luckily I had spare blocks with me and was able to limp home. That's when I decided a solid rack would be a wise investment.


The biggest issue with carrying a canoe on a full size truck is how dang high it is. This is where a bed rack is nice because you can easily set the nose up on the back rack and then slide it on. The roof rack, when the bed was in use, required it to be loaded about 6.5' high from the side which was a real pain solo.


"

Have you found the Adarack top load bars to be sufficient distance apart from each other (front to back) to accommodate a long 18ft canoe on a short bed like yours? Do you have any support on top of the cab?

Diego: Have you found the Adarack top load bars to be sufficient distance apart from each other (front to back) to accommodate a long 18ft canoe on a short bed like yours? Do you have any support on top of the cab?"

No roof rack. They're just over 5' apart which is good enough for my 17'4" canoe. Ideally they'd be a bit further, but that's more than most car racks. A canoe with a tall bow may be an issue and require more height to avoid hitting the cab.

Argo: I have a Bakflip folding tonneau cover. I phoned Adarac and the rep said they can't confirm their product works with it unfortunately.

Like you, I have the Rhino equivalent to your Yakima. Mine has aeroblade style crossbars but it's still noisy. I have only carried the kayaks on it and was caught in a ridiculous crosswind on the highway last year. It held up okay. But yes to all of your concerns about paint, door seals etc. "

Yeah I kind of doubt the regular aluminum series like mine with the bent inward uprights would work. If you have measurements and an F-150 I could check. I would think the Pro aluminum series with straight uprights would work fine, assuming your Bakflip is inside the bedrails.

I will say Adarac's finish quality isn't up to the same standard as you'd find on Yakima or Thule. And I had to locate and cut out holes for the front stake pockets. But it costs less. I'd recommend the bare aluminum as it will hold up better.