I have a gen6 (2022) Outback and haul one canoe with ease.

Anyone get two canoes on one of these? How'd you do it?

Open to considering an aftermarket rack, also open to 2x4 engineering...this is something I would only do once or twice per year.

Have carried 2 canoes on a FIAT 128 (long ago).
Worked fine. I believe I clamped 2x2's to the roof rack
to lengthen.

I put 2 on a Nissan Sentra with a Yakima bar.

I've done it with lashed down 2x4's. If I was going to do it twice a year and for any extended drive I would purchase the Thule long bars (I know they make a specific attachment for the Outback).

Watch your head getting into and out of the car.

Add 4 people and all their gear your Outback will not be quick off the blocks (compared to its normal "vigorous"acceleration) .

I have a 2018 Outback but it is a model with normal Thule channels, not the big hinged ones. I was able to get 76" cross bars (at Canoecopia) and works well from 2 canoes. I'd probably try rigid conduit with pipe insulation instead of 2x4 but either should work.

I’ve attached 2x4’s to 58 inch Yakima cross bars with u-bolts (on a 2017 Outback). I only use it about once a year, but it’s very solid and easier than switching to a second set of longer cross bars.

I drive Forester with 78" Yakima round cross-bars on the roof. They are not wider than the car itself (including side mirrors) and easily fit 2 regular canoes side-by-side. I replace end-caps on the bars with bright yellow tennis balls to protect people from hitting the bars.

EddyTurn: "I drive Forester with 78" Yakima round cross-bars on the roof. They are not wider than the car itself (including side mirrors) and easily fit 2 regular canoes side-by-side. I replace end-caps on the bars with bright yellow tennis balls to protect people from hitting the bars."

It only takes one good head shot to teach you to avoid them. I learned.

Thanks for the group-think on this.

This generation of Outback has a couple of very specific challenges in terms of attaching anything to the OEM crossbars (see photos).

The OEM bars are bowed, high point in the center. That high point is proud of the level line between the upper edges of the two side rails - a two-by on top of that would be a teeter-totter, if you will. One might solve this by using a normal, very warped 2x. :-)

However, in addition: the upper edges of the two side rails are a thin, weak molded plastic at that point and would not support any real load.

So - a 2x2 or 2x4 u-bolted or otherwise affixed on top of the OEM crossbar is going to likely wobble or even flex a side rail under load, compromising the whole enchilada.






Hmmm - this has me thinking - perhaps the answer is to run two longitudinal 2x4s (front-to-back; one left side, one right side), U-bolted to the OEM cross bars. Then a second set of 2x4s, sideways & on top, screwed to the lower ones.

I do what EddyTurn does, I switch to my Yakima 78" bars and try to remember to mind my head.

deerfoot: "I do what EddyTurn does, I switch to my Yakima 78" bars and try to remember to mind my head."

+1

billconner: "

EddyTurn: "I drive Forester with 78" Yakima round cross-bars on the roof. They are not wider than the car itself (including side mirrors) and easily fit 2 regular canoes side-by-side. I replace end-caps on the bars with bright yellow tennis balls to protect people from hitting the bars."

It only takes one good head shot to teach you to avoid them. I learned."

In New Jersey we don't have self-service gas stations and attendants in my town would stop serving me altogether if they have to learn this skill by trial.

Recommend removing the OEM bars as they are pretty useless, then install a Yakima or Thule system. If you haul canoes, bikes, lumber, etc with any frequency it’s worth the investment.

You will find the Outback roof rack has brackets to attach straps to. Remove the brackets and use those threaded holes to attach what ever homemade cross bar you come up with. Expect mid-teen gas mileage and a tough time in a crosswind. It can be done but just too much to ask of an outback.

Thule does make a bracket that attaches to the base off the rack (not the cross bars) and then you can buy the extended bars that fit the brackets. Not cheap, but really solid.

We have a 2012 Outback and use 2X4s lashed next to the OEM cross bars. If I remember right the bow of the OEM bars made tying things off a little weird but it worked just fine. Driven back and forth from Chicago a few times with this set up. Wish I had a better picture, but this with just one canoe on top is all I have

Marten: "You will find the Outback roof rack has brackets to attach straps to. "

Alas Marten - mine does not! May be that they discontinued those with the current generation...

I drove an outback for a few years. They’re great cars, but their racks are absolutely worthless. As I used my canoes more, it became a dealbreaker.

Other than that, great cars.

amhacker22: "I drove an outback for a few years. They’re great cars, but their racks are absolutely worthless. As I used my canoes more, it became a dealbreaker.


Other than that, great cars."

Exactly why I got the model with a "normal" roof rack (and 6 cylinders!).

sns: "

Marten: "You will find the Outback roof rack has brackets to attach straps to. "

Alas Marten - mine does not! May be that they discontinued those with the current generation..."

Oh my! Without those I would be hesitant relying on the factory cross bars to be enough on the windy interstates. I went with a Dodge Durango but their factory rack is worthless too. Had to purchase an expensive rack anyway. Even those have little front to back distance between the bars.

Best to have a trailer hitch and run a rack with that being the rear support. Some have had pros drill and attach towers as far forward as possible. I say pros because they need to know where it is safe to drill on.the roof. If you use a rear carrier on the trailer hitch you have an even longer attaching option.

amhacker22: "I drove an outback for a few years. They’re great cars, but their racks are absolutely worthless. As I used my canoes more, it became a dealbreaker.


Other than that, great cars."

Exactly why I did not buy one. Don't want to mess around with a homemade contraption which I'd not be happy with in terms of looks, simplicity or safety. Otherwise an Outback would've been at/near the top of my list.

HowardSprague: "

amhacker22: "I drove an outback for a few years. They’re great cars, but their racks are absolutely worthless. As I used my canoes more, it became a dealbreaker.



Other than that, great cars."

Exactly why I did not buy one. Don't want to mess around with a homemade contraption which I'd not be happy with in terms of looks, simplicity or safety. Otherwise an Outback would've been at/near the top of my list."

I had one of the newer Outbacks (17) for seven years and had zero issue with the rack, carrying canoes, bikes, ski box all around the country- never an issue. If you want wider heavier duty bars they make a Thule attachment to the base rack that is very robust (no need to mess with a "homemade contraption). I really liked the ability to tuck the crossbars into the base when not needed.

In this case two canoes, a SOT kayak and a deflated ducky on a Yakima system with 70" core bars. I normally keep a Skinny Warrior basket on top, but if I remove it I can just fit two canoes as shown, and I wouldn't hesitate to drive anywhere like that. I'd like to have 78" bars like I had on my Tundra, but that length is only available in the round bars and I was afraid they'd have been a bit too noisy. I encourage you to bite the bullet and get a rack system. They just make hauling canoes and other things so much easier, and they provide peace of mind.

I don't have a Subaru, so I can't help you specifically.

Here is what I did with my Ford Explorer. I went to the hardware store and bought some 4ft. aluminum angle and cut it into 4 equal sections and bolted a 2x4 across and drilled holes to line up with the factory mounting holes for cross bars. I believe the bolts I used are M6 on the Explorer. You can't see it from the picture but there is an additional hole drilled in the top of the aluminum for a ratchet strap hook to grab. Aluminum is easy to cut and drill, so it did not take long to make. You do have to be somewhat precise with the holes, so measure carefully and be sure to use a center punch to set your drill mark so your drill bit does not wander. Bolts and unbolts easy enough when needed or not.






















Looking at your pictures, it looks like Subaru does something different with their cross bars. Is the cross bar removable? How is it attached? Perhaps you could bolt a ripped down 2x4 across in it's place to flatten out the mounting surface and then attach a longer one on top to give you the width you need.

Couple of 2x2's. Put the 2x2's on the roof with the foam blocks under them and then secure canoe's tight to the 2x2's. Granted, having a top rack can make that a little different. Done this with my Dodge Durango as well (no pics handy) where I have a top rack. Easier to do on the old Saturn where it was mostly flat.

Can I carry a single canoe on top of a factory 2018 Subaru Outback rack? Even with the slightly bent OEM bars a single canow would be fine if tied down correctly no?

I had an old Subaru Legacy wagon. Thule racks with 2x4s bolted on to extend them. I once carried 7 sea kayaks on it.

Jellodyne: "Can I carry a single canoe on top of a factory 2018 Subaru Outback rack? Even with the slightly bent OEM bars a single canow would be fine if tied down correctly no?"

Yes, but you may encounter clearance issues with the portage pads mounted to the yoke and the roof of your car. Easy enough to unbolt the pads and reinstall at your destination. Alternatively you could lash 2x4s to the OEM cross bars to get some extra height (see above photo by prettypaddle).

Yes, you can. It's not a problem.

Did this with an after market 2x4 system with U-bolts through the gear tie down areas on the Subaru Outback roof rack system. Worked great for 3 years that I had that similar model (2020). Still have the 2x4 system - you could check it out and borrow if you like! Located in Minneapolis area.

Awesome and looks great.

I've got something really similar-looking under construction. Will finish upon return from solo in WCPP, and will share the final product.

Thanks!

So, I'm calling this project done as well.

My tandem rack is super-solid, and addresses one of my pet peeves with racks, OEM or aftermarket: Bars that are too close together. Current OEM bars in the wide setting are only 39.5". My contraption is about 63". Additionally, the OEM bars have some wiggle to them - by also tying into the arc at the front of the rack, this setup has zero movement.

It also allows me to keep the portage pads on the yoke - bonus!

The wood was some cedar I had lying about; slightly larger than a standard 2x4. Finished with Spar varnish.

I will tweak the straps a bit but otherwise I'm in business next time the need to haul two canoes arises.

Of course, while this was an inexpensive build (just some $ in hardware), I spent way too long on this, and buying an aftermarket rack would have been smarter. But where's the fun in that?

Looks bomb-proof, and I like that you can leave the portage pads in place when transporting your canoes. That's been an issue with our Outback--gotta pull the pads each time I load the NW17, then replace them at the lake. I've started using yoga mat strips instead of pipe insulation between the gunnels and my rack--better grip and less movement in cross-winds.

TZ

Jellodyne: "Can I carry a single canoe on top of a factory 2018 Subaru Outback rack? Even with the slightly bent OEM bars a single canow would be fine if tied down correctly no?"

Happy Camper Outback
Kevin the Happy Camper posted a U-tube of tips for hauling one canoe on his new Outback.