I'm heading up this summer and taking the family truckster Honda Pilot. I have the factory crossbars installed. The issue is that the side rails are flush with the roof of the car. How would I strap down a canoe for transport? I've purchased canoe stops for side-to-side motion (in addition to front/back tie downs), but still not entirely sure how the main strapping would work. Maybe through the car? Any advice is appreciated. I can try to get pics of the side rails if needed.

Thanks!
Brandon

Can you not tie down to the crossbars?

If there is not enough room to wrap the straps around the crossbars between the canoe stops and the side rails, wrap the straps behind the stops.

I find stops to be a pain in the neck. I also prefer rope to straps. Just tie off so that your ropes are right against the gunnels of the canoe. This will stop the boat from sliding side to side, and front to back.

Yes, I could tie to the crossbars, I just had not dealt with this kind of setup before now. Thanks for the advice, trying to plan in advance.

Outfitters run the straps through the car all the time. Depending on placement and head room they can be annoying.

cmanimal: "Outfitters run the straps through the car all the time. Depending on placement and head room they can be annoying."

And depending on the vehicle they might damage your headliner or weatherstripping and if it rains they will wick water inside.

plmn: "

cmanimal: "Outfitters run the straps through the car all the time. Depending on placement and head room they can be annoying."

And depending on the vehicle they might damage your headliner or weatherstripping and if it rains they will wick water inside. "

Yes! I have dealt with the water wicking inside on a trip in 2014 with my old car. Half my body got soaked after a multi hour rain soaked drive. Ha ha

I hear you and appreciate your situation. I have a newer vehicle, a 2023 toyota Highlander, that has cross bars (that are horizontal), but no side bars for tying things down. The Gunwale stoppers will help, esp in windy conditions. One option I have thought of would be to tie in some homemade side bars made of 2x2 wood. Once tied down very well, you could then use your rope or strap over the canoe and tie it to your new cross bar. The problem is that many newer cars do not come with solid racks that lend themselves to carrying canoes. Good luck in your efforts and let us know how you solve the problem.

I've threaded my straps around the crossbars on several vehicles whose factory rails did not have openings for securing items to the crossbars. No problem, except for a rental whose crossbars were almost the same width as my canoe gunwales. I solved that issue with a quick stop at a home supply where I bought two 1"x4"x4' planks and put them between the canoe and the factory crossbars, then cinched the straps down snugly enough to bow the planks to the same arch as the crossbars. Worked great!

TZ

Yakima makes towers with clips that will attach to your flush rails.
If you want cheaper/quicker/straps through the doors, then this "Wonder Bar" from oakorchardcanoe would work (instead of using your existing crossbars):

I'm confused...people tie the canoe off to the side rails? what does that look like? wouldn't it slide all over the place?

Why not just tie to the crossbar? It won't slide around then, it seems like it would be easier, the strap is tight against the canoe, so no wind noise from strap vibration.

I drive a 2005 pilot. It has the side rails that have an opening between them and roof. I tie my canoe this way:
Back end: rope to the trailer hitch, anchored by a bowline. Run the line around the seat, and back down. put a loop in the line coming down, wrap the running end around the hitch (mine has a hole in it and I use that) and then up thru the loop. cinch it down so the canoe tilts a little up at the front.
NOTE: I have yoke pads that hit the roof, and those become the pivot point for front and back rocker.
At the front: I have two bits of paracord that attach to the frame under the hood. I pull them out when tying down the canoe, one on each side. These are just loops. I tie one end of my front rope to one side, go thru the handle at the front of the canoe and back down the the other loop. Again, loop in the downward line, go thru the loop that is on the frame and back to the loop in the line. Cinch down TIGHT. I then put two lines over the middle, one in front of the front crossbar, and one behind the rear crossbar. Mine runs thru the gap on my side rails, but you could just tie to the crossbar directly.

All lines are bowline at anchor, loop in the line and then cinched down. Holler if that does not make send. I ALWAYS grab the front of the canoe and try to shake it side to side. If no movement, I am good. Next, after moving, I find a safe section of the road and SLAM the brakes. I warn my passengers first of course! If the canoe shifts forward, re-snug. If no movement, go camping!
NEXT NOTE: I do my best to stay under 60 mph, sometimes getting into the low 60s, but stay a little slower. For me, I have found that above 65 my canoe starts moving like there are gnomes on the roof moving it for all they are worth!
In a cross wind, slow down more!

Let me know if you want pictures. I can load up and shoot a few if that would help.

Eric

fun4dad2: " I have two bits of paracord that attach to the frame under the hood. I pull them out when tying down the canoe, one on each side. These are just loops. I tie one end of my front rope to one side, go thru the handle at the front of the canoe and back down the the other loop. Again, loop in the downward line, go thru the loop that is on the frame and back to the loop in the line. Cinch down TIGHT.


"

Better to use two ropes attached to "handle" or small thwart in bow of canoe that pull against each other to hold the canoe in place. When one rope is used the canoe can shift back and forth. Two ropes in the bow, two straps in the middle. Rope at the back of the canoe to hitch really does nothing