Does anyone have experience with the convertible seat/yoke made by Spring Creek? I am considering removing the portage yoke from my Wenonah Itasca and using this as a third seat/yoke.

The description says it converts from seat to yoke in seconds. I wonder if it's that easy. Are there any structural concerns with removing the existing portage yoke?

I think you should be cautious about removing the yoke on the Itasca because of the boat's complex shape. I recommend contacting Wenonah to get their opinion before proceeding.

I put one on my 17ft grumman (approx 85 lbs) and yes it converts in like 5 seconds.

Thanks. I will definitely call Wenonah and get their opinion.

Ela45, was the yoke comfortable on longer portage?

ela45: "I put one on my 17ft grumman (approx 85 lbs) and yes it converts in like 5 seconds.


"

+1

"comfortable" is highly subjective with ANY length portage of the ol grumman! I'd phrase it more as "doable" hahah.

I used that seat in a Souris River Q17 years ago when my girls were little. It worked well both as a seat and portage yoke. Canoe sits higher when portaging, and it can get a bit bouncy, but I never had any issues with it.

Thanks for all the responses. I appreciate it.
Happy paddling.

I put one on my Grumman Eagle. It's about 72lbs and the seat/yoke is far more comfortable than any portage pad I've ever tried with this canoe. It does convert in seconds. You just push the button to pop out one side, swing it out like a door, and the other side will pop out on it's own. Flip it around and follow the same process in reverse to put it back in. I did check to make sure this method isn't straining the side that pivots, but I would recommend verifying on your own canoe before trying this repeatedly.

What makes this far more comfortable to portage is how the straps hold the weight on your shoulders. The straps suspend the weight between the 2 bars instead of sitting the weight on top of compressed pads. The suspension effect pretty much eliminates the impact to your shoulders whenever you take a hard step, which is about 90% of the pain of hauling a canoe for me. There are added benefits of allowing you to position forwards or backwards for balance and raising the canoe slightly for better airflow, but the main benefit is the suspension that reduces/eliminates the impact on your shoulders.

Used one for 30 years and it holds up very well and comfortable for seating and portaging. Only thing when setting the canoe down your neck and head can get stuck between the pads so you need to form a technique to get it off.

I have one on my Wenonah Champlain and it works good. You just flip the yoke over to covert from seat to yoke. It does give you more forward and backward adjustment when portaging which is nice.

One thing I did notice, because the yoke is wider front to back, you have to have your pack adjusted so that it is below your shoulders or the back of the yoke hits your pack and pushes the front of the canoe down. The factory yoke fits on your shoulders in front of your pack so if the pack sticks up a bit it is not a problem.

If I need a center seat, I use the Spring Creek yoke. Otherwise I put the factory yoke back on. My factory yoke can be removed with two pins one on each end so it's easy to change yokes.

I also built custom brackets to mount the Spring Creek yoke so I did not have to drill hold in the top of the gunnels. I can send you a picture if your interested.

HayRiverDrifter: "I have one on my Wenonah Champlain and it works good. You just flip the yoke over to covert from seat to yoke. It does give you more forward and backward adjustment when portaging which is nice.

One thing I did notice, because the yoke is wider front to back, you have to have your pack adjusted so that it is below your shoulders or the back of the yoke hits your pack and pushes the front of the canoe down. The factory yoke fits on your shoulders in front of your pack so if the pack sticks up a bit it is not a problem.

If I need a center seat, I use the Spring Creek yoke. Otherwise I put the factory yoke back on. My factory yoke can be removed with two pins one on each end so it's easy to change yokes.

I also built custom brackets to mount the Spring Creek yoke so I did not have to drill hold in the top of the gunnels. I can send you a picture if your interested."

HayRiverDrifter, I would be interested in seeing a pic of your custom brackets. I really don't want to drill extra holes in the gunnels.

I have a special model that comes with a removable yoke, so mine had bolts. On the inside photo, you can see the bracket for the factory yoke and I added a photo of the bracket on the factory removable yoke. I bet if you called Wenonah, they would sell you the parts to make your factory yoke removable.












A couple photos of my other canoe with the standard yoke that is not quick removal. You will either have to drill out the current rivets and replace them with bolts and locking nuts, make your custom brackets wide enough to drill new holes wider that the three existing rivets, or fabricate your new custom brackets to bolt to the existing yoke brackets on the inside of the gunnel. Hmm

HayRiverDrifter, thanks for the photos.